Alternatives to using white paint

[Landlubber Mike]

Hi folks,

 

I was wondering if anyone has found any decent alternatives to using white paint.  I'm about to start on the Charles Morgan, and have been thinking about avoiding paints to the extent possible.  In particular I'm trying to avoid using white paint, as even a "dull white" to me looks a bit too garish.

 

The masts and some detail areas of the Charles Morgan are white.  I thought holly could be a good option, but after talking to Jeff at Hobbymill, it sounds like it's hard to find stock that would work.  Any other options?  I've seen pickling stains and whitewash stains on the market, as well as bleaching techniques for wood.  Just curious if anyone has figured out a good solution to avoiding white paint.

 

Thanks!

 

 

[mtaylor]

You might take a look at silver maple.  It's pretty darn white. I'm using it on my Licorne for decks and celing on the gundeck.

[Landlubber Mike]

Thanks very much Mark, that's very helpful.  Do you mind me asking where you sourced it?

[demonborger]

http://www.modelshipyard.com.au/timbers/timber-strips/silver-ash/

 

What about silver ash?

[mtaylor]

Mine came from The Lumberyard.  You might also check Hobbymill,  Woodcraft, Woodworkerssource,  or any place that sells wood other than pine and fir.   In other words... not a big box home store.

[Landlubber Mike]

Thanks very much for the tips guys, I really appreciate it!

[overdale]

Mike,

I generally like to 'tone down' some of my models with an overspray of a very dilute oak wood stain. It takes the edge off white very well, blends all the other colors together and ages the model slightly. Then I overspray with a matt varnish to seal it in.

[Landlubber Mike]

Hi Overdale, thanks very much for the tip!  That seems like a good simple fix.  Just out of curiosity, do you need to match the base of the stain (water or oil) to the type of paint you use?  

[overdale]

Hi Mike,

I usually use a spirit based stain as it evaporates much more quickly and doesn't 'bead' on varnish like a water based one.

 

All the best,

 

Dan.

[Landlubber Mike]

Thanks Dan!

[Maury S]

Jeff at Hobby Mill has proposed both Holly and Aspen as various times.

Maury

[JPZ66]

Hi All,

 

In regards to painting scale models, there are a lot of different ideas and suggestions about how to deal with "scale effect", and ultimately it will come down to experimentation and what you find acceptable. You can find this topic out and about all over the 'net for different subject matter...airplanes, cars, ships, etc.

 

Here is a link to one such article : http://titanic-model.com/paint/LINK%20PAGE_Painting%20your%20model%20for%20the%20greatest%20realism/Painting%20your%20model%20for%20the%20greatest%20realism.htm

 

I know that I find the correct base colors are often too intense, and therefore will tone them down to some extent in most cases, and usually apply some degree of weathering as well. I also totally agree that models should neither be full gloss or full flat either. I have often mixed a flat coat with some gloss until a desired sheen is acheived ( yes, I spray through an airbrush nearly all of the time ).

 

In regards to bright white, some suggest a touch of grey mixed in to tone it down, and this may well be alright, but the result is a 'cold' color....works well on a metal based subject in my opinion. However, don't be afraid to try toning down the white with a warm color, such as tan or a hint of yellow....this will also bring the intensity of white down, but on the 'warm' side of things..... Again, experimentation is the key to finding what you like and practice on the same materials as your model before you take the plunge !

 

One other item for thought.....the base coat of a painted model will invariably play a part in the look of the finish coat....i.e; dark or light primers can have a subtle impact on what color you see in the end.

 

One other trick.......spraying flat paint is far more controlable and the flats dry quickly with less chance of runs developing. I therefore almost always paint in flats, and if the end product requires a higher level of sheen, I will take care of that in the clear top coats. Well, unless the subject is a scale model car or something that needs the highest gloss level possible.

 

Cheers,

 

Joe