Bounty by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - OcCre - 1/45

[shihawk]

HI Mike ,your doing a great job  As im planking the second layer on my build at present i thought you might like to try a method i read about somewhere on the sit but can,t remember who to thank for . I decided to try it and have had great results . Put a thin layer of wood glue on the hull where plank will be fitted ,then put a thin layer of glue on the plank itself . I do about 12 ins at a time and by the time you have the glue on the plank the glue on the hull is nearly dry . fit your plank and push into place as soon as possible  It seems to grip almost like CA but still leaves time for adjustment  I found i only needed clamps or pins at extreme bends or the ends of planks  i also got into the habit of immediatly cleaning each plank and seam with a damp cloth although with a little practice very little glue seeps out.  I then rub the plank and joint with end of a clothes peg to bed it in well and smooth out the joints . I must point out that i am useing o.5 wood and this may not work as well on thicker stifer planks but should be worth a try ,saves a lot on pining and clamping . As always experiment on some scraps first . Hope this is of some help Have Fun                        Boyd

[Captain Al]

Boyd, are you also building a Bounty?  And you are referring to a second planking, correct?  I have been using your method of coating both parts for awhile now and it does work well.  I'm needing to put added material onto my frames, so I am veneering them using this method.  The key is to get the second part glued and placed just when the first is tacked up.

[shihawk]

 Im building the billing Victory and used this method to put an extra layer of thin planks on as i don,t want to paint Thought it mite be usefull as i had good results but obviously you have been using it already  . I found as thin a layer as possible worked best but only a short distance at a time . Yes its the second planking never tried it on the first but will next build 

Edited May 2, 2014 by shihawk

[fifthace]

Grand job Mike, be proud of that hull!

 

Sod the second planking, just stain it walnut and varnish it job done! LOL no just kidding, although you'd probably be able to get away with it.

 

Me personally I use Cyano for the second planking, mainly because they sell Locktite Superglue Gel near me for a £1 a tube, instead of £5 a time! The gell is much better as the thin veneer doesn't soak it up and it does give you a few second manouvering.

 

If you're unsure though I'd stick with PVA, as once stuck...you can get it off but it can be a bit fiddly and damaging.

[nataniel]

Great job ;-) I'm happy for a next progress.

[Mike Dowling]

Oh thanks all, what really nice comments. At least I have managed to get a bit of a result after potential disaster. Many thanks to CF for all his help and to Dom and Captain Al for their continued interest and encouragement. Dom, I can't stain or varnish it now, I have just painted the whole thing in PVA!!

 

I would like to think that in the end I will make a decent enough job to varnish this beast hence my questions about gluing. I know that CA makes a right mess but PVA can as well if one is not very careful can be very difficult to varnish over. The second planking on this is rawmin 0.6mm veneer for the level above the whales and sapele 0.6mm below so I don't have a lot to play with in terms of sanding afterwards. I really don't want to have to 'nail' the planks to hold them down while they set. I guess I could use a load of elastic bands but you will all appreciate that this is one BIG model !! I might have to use bungee straps instead!!!

 

Your ideas interest me Shihawk, it sounds like you are using PVA like a contact adhesive. Is that right? I do have contact adhesive but I don't like using it because it is so messy and tends to live a life of it's own once you take the top off the tube.

 

Anyway and further ideas would be gratefully viewed. Thanks again for all the encouragement.

[fifthace]

Runny CA makes a mess...but you can buy it in differing thickness' from CMB...or use a gel...if you wanted to go down that route anyway.

[Mike Dowling]

^{It's something I will think about Dom but the damn stuff goes off so fast if you don't use all of it quickly and I could finish up buying shed loads. I can't get it as cheaply as you can!!}

[shihawk]

Im useing TITEBOND II WOOD GLUE  bought from CMB  .Don,t find it messy if used with caution  Can be bought on Amazon in quantity even cheaper 

[fifthace]

Mike if you did decide in the future I am sure you must have a Home Bargains somewhere near you? If you don't and want to buy a job lot sometime, let me know and you can send me the money and I can go get it for you and post it up

 

Also, I have found with it once you have opened a new tube, through the black lid away! It's as useful as a chocolate kettle! Instead, a map pin fits snugly in the in the nozel and makes an airtight seal, so the metal of the pin won't stick to the plastic of the nozel as there is no air to complete the chemical reaction.

 

Even if you don't use it for planking this time, it has a range of other uses just within ship modelling.

[Mike Dowling]

^{Cheers Dom, I'll let you know.}

[Mike Dowling]

_{Hey all, I need some help/advice about rubbing strakes. I have to put on 4.  Three of them are 2x5ml and one on top of those is 2x3ml. My wonderful instructions give me measurements from the rear bulwarks and the middle from the deck but no instructions as to the bow.}

 

_{So my first question is should rubbing strakes run parallel to the top deck or the bulwarks?}

 

_{My second question relates to the fact that above the rubbing strakes I have to plank in ramin wood and below in sapele. The instructions say plank first and then put the rubbing strakes on. Apart from the fact that that is a waste of wood it seems to make sense to me to put the rubbing strakes on first and then plank up to and down to them afterwards. Doing it that way would also give me the line for the second planking. What do you think?}

[fifthace]

Look through your plan sheets. They should be at 1:1 scale so you can take the measurements from those to position the strakes.

[Mike Dowling]

Oh Dom, that's a good one!!! What plan sheets would those be? Presumably the ones you don't get with this kit!!

 

Could you give me any idea from your Bounty?

[Mike Dowling]

^{I quite forgot about the plans I have for the masts etc. However would you believe they don't show the rubbing strakes at all!!!}

^{Back to you matey or anyone who has done a Bounty and can help.}

[fifthace]

Sheets A, B, C, D, G and J all show the position of the strake at the bow, albeit a small section due to showing the cutaway side. Unfortunately those plans aren't at 1:1 scale but should be enough for you to approximate it pretty closely.

[Mike Dowling]

Thanks Dom, I did look at those but on such a small scale it doesn't really help. I can get a good idea from the model itself but it seems that around the bow particularly these measurements need to be fairly precise. The difference between parallel with the bulwarks and parallel with the deck is 10ml which you will appreciate is a lot. Maybe you could measure yours (I appreciate it is much smaller scale) and see which your strakes run parallel to?

[fifthace]

Mike, as requested.

 

I've marked some key points on the photo. The two lighter blue lines the distance between the top and bottom of that line is 19mm.

 

The darker blue line the distance is 18mm.

 

18mm along the length, I've taken the measurements from the strake that runs beneath the capping rail at the bow. (Yellow if using the admiralty colours).

 

Keep in mind the difference in scales though mate.

 

(I've not reduced the size of the photo so you can click on it for a closer view.)

 

[Mike Dowling]

Actually Dom that is really helpful. It shows me the measurements for the large rubbing strakes and the position of the smaller top one which is above the 19mm. That is a crucial measurement so thank you very much. Doesn't immediately help with the bulwark issue but I think it will help.

[fifthace]

_{Hey all, I need some help/advice about rubbing strakes. I have to put on 4.  Three of them are 2x5ml and one on top of those is 2x3ml. My wonderful instructions give me measurements from the rear bulwarks and the middle from the deck but no instructions as to the bow.}

 

_{So my first question is should rubbing strakes run parallel to the top deck or the bulwarks?}

 

_{My second question relates to the fact that above the rubbing strakes I have to plank in ramin wood and below in sapele. The instructions say plank first and then put the rubbing strakes on. Apart from the fact that that is a waste of wood it seems to make sense to me to put the rubbing strakes on first and then plank up to and down to them afterwards. Doing it that way would also give me the line for the second planking. What do you think?}

Just re-read your question. The rubbing strakes should follow the top edge of the bulwarks, the same curve, except at the stern the main strake you will notice decreases it's gap and instead hugs the bend of the hull.

 

Do your second planking first. For a start if you plank the rubbing strakes first they won't be raised above the surface of the hull quite as much as they should be, and second you will find when sanding down the hull after the second planking you may catch the rubbing strakes and damage the edges.

[Mike Dowling]

^{Greetings all!}

 

^{I know I have been quiet for a while but I have not been idle.}

 

^{The second planking is now done to the best of my limited ability. In fact the pale wood section I had to second plank twice because the first attempt was dreadful and I couldn't get it all off so I went over the top. Cunning eh?!}

 

^{It may be of interest to some that the planking was all done with PVA glue, no CA at all. Also no pins were used because I want to keep the boat in natural wood and not paint it so I held each plank with sticky tape to measure tapering and for gluing}

 

^{I have to trim, sand and varnish next. I am hoping that I can use the sanding process to fill some of the little gaps with sawdust and then varnish to keep the dust in situ.}

 

^{I realise this is not museum quality planking but, it has covered the whole hull and, to be quite honest I am pretty pleased with myself seeing as how this is my first real go at it.}

 

 

 

 

[Mirabell61]

she is looking good Mike,

 

nice clean planking Job...

 

Nils

[Capt.Fisher]

Nice job Mike! I like your dark part of planking! Yet, I am amazed at the what you call "the pale section". Is it really how they teach in your instruction?? Mine looks totally different! I mean my instruction teaches that pale planks start from the deck downwards, parallel to the deck, and after 6 rows changes to dark color.

Anyway, looks great! and you can see the 'guts'of the boat alright! Congrats!

It will be even better after sanding and varnish! Good luck.

[hamilton]

Looks great Mike - nice to see you got through the planking tribulations with such a good result....I've never used PVA for planking - always CA for a fast hold....but I use slow acting, gap filling CA in small quantities......

hamilton

[Captain Al]

Great work Mike.  I am jealous.  I hope mine comes out half as good.  Capt Fisher, I have the same kit as you so I'm interested in your comments.  I know what you are saying, but I don't see that that is much different from Mike's.  Maybe he went down a plank or two lower with the "pale" basswood, but otherwise, it is what I thought our's will be.  Except, I now notice the transom superstructure is pale whereas our's I believe call for mahogany or walnut.

[Mike Dowling]

Capt's both,

Thank you for your kind comments. My model does seem to have a lot of differences. Regarding the pale section, my first attempt was to ignore my instructions and do what others had suggested which would have been more similar to yours. However it looked a complete mess.

 

When I overplanked it, I followed my instructions which gave precise measurements for the line between bass wood and sapele running parallel with the bulwarks. If you remember I asked the multitude about the positions of the rubbing strakes which will eventually cover the join. I had mixed replies between parallel with the deck or parallel with the bulkheads. The difference whilst only about 10ml I thought would be crucial later so I stuck with the instruction measurements. However I would add that the lowest rubbing strake now would leave a large gap at the bow so I am thinking of putting two on instead of three (another difference between our kits)

 

Thanks also Hamilton, I didn't dare use CA glue because I know how badly it marks the wood for later varnishing and I want to make the best of the sapele colour.

[Mike Dowling]

Oops, missed a point there! The reason my transom is pale is because my kit states the pale sections should be painted blue. I want to keep them in wood so I planked the transom which was ply to match the rest.

[Cannon Fodder]

Nice work MD. I am going slow on the second planking too on my Swift, mainly cause we are moving though and I'm trying to find another job!

 

I love it. I hope mine comes out as purty.

[Mike Dowling]

Very nice of you CF and many thanks to you for your help and tuition. I know I didn't use your fan template on the second go but you did make me realise the importance and technique of tapering without which I would now have a clinker built barge!!!

[Mike Dowling]

Hello all,

 

Thought it was time I posted an update on progress.

 

I have now finished the basic hull complete with rubbing strakes, the keel and the rudder. I made a complete mess of the rudder by gluing the hinges in the wrong places with CA glue. However, with a lot of cellulose thinner, a lot of patience and a lot of bad language I managed to get them off and start again!

 

The whole thing has had at least (!!!) two coats of satin varnish and just for good measure I veneered the edges of the bulkheads and decks on the exposed side. The time spent was worth it I think.

 

Next, all the deck accessories and fittings to be done!