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USS Constitution by Kimberley - Revell - Plastic - 1:196


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This is my second go around with this ship.  The first one was the very first ship I did.  I plan on doing all the painting and rigging on this one, unlike my first one.  I already painted the bottom part of the hull.  I was happy to get a pretty straight line.  I am using the Testor paints on this one since I already had the colors from my first one.  I am also curious to see how different the enamel is compared to the acrylic.  Since the weather is finally getting better, I am going to go visit the maritime museum in Manitowoc, WI again so I can really study and take pictures of the model ships they have.  It is a wonderful museum, and it was there that I decided I wanted to build model ships.  Get ready for a lot of questions when I get to the upper part of this ship.  That is where I start going down hill on these ships.  I really want to get this down so I can start my big Revell USS Constitution that Eric got me for Christmas.  I truly appreciate any help I can get.

 

post-7263-0-05993300-1393108803_thumb.jpg

 

post-7263-0-79992700-1393108818_thumb.jpg 

 

Kimberley

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Congratulations Kim on getting the Constitution. I look forward to following your build log as you move forward. Interestingly the 1;196 kit bulwarks appear slightly different. Probably better.  :)

Edited by lambsbk
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Kimberly

 

This looks like it will be a good study preparing for the larger scale build.  I understand that having visual references works better than trying to read text.  If you haven't yet, make sure to check out Jays (Modeler12) Constitution build.  He has done a very good and detailed job of documenting the rigging on his build.  Being able to see that might be a big help to you.  I will be following along here with interest.  Enjoy, and take the time to learn.  This one will be better than the last, aand the next will be better than this one.

 

Bob

Current build -- MS Bluenose

Future build - MS Flying Fish

 

"A ship is safe in harbor, but that's not what ships are for." - William G. T. Shedd

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Kimberly, I'm anxious to see you do well on your Constitution. I have seen your other builds and am impressed. I think once you move up to the larger scale Constitution you'll notice that ship modeling is much easier with a larger scale model.

Thanks,

 

Patrick

 

YouTube Channel for fun: Patrick's Scale Studio

Finished: Model Shipways US Brig Niagara

Current: I Love Kit USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54

 

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday"

- John Wayne

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Thanks guys.  I am really putting my heart into this one.  I have been painting the pieces on the trees.  They are a little confusing on what to paint.  They will say to paint one piece tan, but then they don't note to paint another piece like it tan.  I am going with my instinct and painting them tan also.  Question?  I want to paint the front end decorative part (as seen in the picture) gold.  What is the best technique?  Do I just try to do it with a little brush, or is there pens out there that work better?  I tried to paint straight white lines between the cannon windows like it says to do.  They turned out horrible.  I painted over them with black, so I can redo them.  I found Testors pens.  I have a black one.  You can really get a pretty good straight line with it.  I am going to go get a white one tonight and redo the white between the cannon windows and hopefully get a straight line.  Painting is just not my forte. :(   I so wish I was a good painter.

 

post-7263-0-87105800-1393339194_thumb.jpg

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I used a very small brush and a large magnifier on the detail. Before you do that though you may want to prime and paint the black plastic as well. I did not - but wish I did. It allows you to go back and paint the black over any mistakes later. Mask off your beautiful copper paint job with Frog tape before spraying the primer. Since I did not paint the black plastic I have limited options. I.e., when I have a little excess paint overflow my only choice is to scrape it off the plastic. It works but it leaves some scratch marks as well.

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Kimberly, for the white you may try Tamiya masking tape and mask off the rest of the ship and then spray the white on in multiple thin coats.

Thanks,

 

Patrick

 

YouTube Channel for fun: Patrick's Scale Studio

Finished: Model Shipways US Brig Niagara

Current: I Love Kit USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54

 

"Tomorrow is the most important thing in life. Comes into us at midnight very clean. It's perfect when it arrives and it puts itself in our hands. It hopes we've learned something from yesterday"

- John Wayne

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Kimberly -

 

When painting the white stripe did you use masking tape to on the hull to prevent the white from going where you don't want it?  If you run a strip below the gunports and another strip above it might make that job a bit easier.  If you think of it as a white stripe running from front to back of the ship, rather than thinking of it as separate white sections between the cannon windows, it might make it easier to visualize.  When you painted the copper plates did you use anything to mask off the upper section of the hull or did you do that by hand?  If by hand, that is a really nice clean job!  or maybe the lower part of the hull was already a copper color?

 

Bob

Current build -- MS Bluenose

Future build - MS Flying Fish

 

"A ship is safe in harbor, but that's not what ships are for." - William G. T. Shedd

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Bob and Patrick, I did not mask off before trying to paint the white stripe.  Last time I tried to mask off something with tape, the paint ran under the tape.  Needless to say, I am iffy when it comes to tape.  Bob the problem is the white stripe runs right in between the cannon windows.  There are oars I have to avoid getting paint on.  It is hard to explain.  It is really bumpy, and I am not sure tape will work.  I am going to give the white Testors pen a try first.  If that does not come out too well, then I will try to figure out how to tape it off some way.

 

Thanks Bob.  I did the copper without taping off.  I am pretty happy with the results.

 

Dave I used a small brush.  I actually like how it turned out.  It is not really detailed, but I like the effect.  I practiced on my other Connie that I never painted.  I also did the name plate, and I am pretty happy with it.  It is not perfect, but it is pretty darn good for me.  I think I am actually getting better at this.  :dancetl6:

 

post-7263-0-29767500-1393379259_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Kimberly,

 

I have 2 painting suggestions (not that I know anything about painting. . .)

 

1) When you apply the masking tape, press down firmly on the edge. Assuming you're painting the white stripe, paint the edges of the masking tape black (like the rest of the hull). That will help keep the white from seeping under the tape. One warning-if you leave the tape on too long, it may take some of the white with it. I suggest leaving the tape on till the paint sets up, but remove it while the paint is tacky.

 

2) When I have trouble painting between the lines (or painting scrollwork), I take an X-acto knife blade and try to gently scratch the errant paint off (when dry).

 

Your mileage may vary, but these have worked for me several times.

 

Hope that helps,

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

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Another trick you might want to try; after applying proper masking tape (like Tamyia) spray with a coat of Dullcote to seal the edges. This will help eleminate paint bleed. Also make sure that the masking tape is firmly stuck to the ship, run a rounded dowel, or the back of your fingernail along the tape edge to press the tape adhesive to the model.

 

Andy

Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati


Current Build:

USF Confederacy

 

 

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Kimberly -

 

I think I see what you mean about it being difficult to get a smooth line for the tape.  I took a closer look at the photos and I see the molded bumps on the hull that fall in the middle of where the tape would run.  This is one of those places where you need to go slow to get a good result.  As you lay the tape down, use something to push the edge so that it forms a nice tight seal against the protrusions.  There is no substitute for taking it slow. The suggestions that Harvey and Andy made about sealing the tape line before applying any white paint are good ones too.

 

Finally - another "take your time" opportunity - it may take more than one coat of the white paint to get good coverage.  Resist the notion that you need to put down one thick coat of white to get the job done.  You will get a better result and less paint bleed if you do multiple thin coats, letting the paint dry between coats.

 

It will be interesting to see how you make out with the paint pen.  A steady hand might solve all your problems!

 

Bob

 

 

Current build -- MS Bluenose

Future build - MS Flying Fish

 

"A ship is safe in harbor, but that's not what ships are for." - William G. T. Shedd

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Thank you everyone for the tips.  Where do I find Dullcote and Tamyia tape?  I am going to try the white pen first and see what kind of result I get.  I am curious as to how good the Testors pens work for straight lines.  I am always the curious little critter.  :)

 

I almost have everything painted on the trees.  I know this is probably not something usually done, but I am putting a clear gloss over everything (see picture).  Not everything on the tree in the picture is done, but you can see how the gloss looks on the boat.  I like the shiny effect.  My white painted parts looked so blah, so I decided to try the clear gloss on them, and I really like the way they look now.  It is really difficult to get the white paint to look good on the plastic.  Personally, I really hate the white on the ship, but I am sticking to the instructions.  I find it funny that the ship example they show on the box is different in some colors than what they have in the instructions.  They don't even say to paint the stand in the instructions.  I painted it the way they had it shown on the box.  I also added the gold where they show it on the box picture, even though it is not in the instructions.   

 

Harvey I am going to try your X-acto knife trick for scraping off stray paint. 

 

Bob I promise to take my time.  I admit I am bad sometimes about not taking my time.  Hopefully ship making will teach me some patience.  The ironic part is I am a perfectionist.  I have had to accept the fact that it is going to take me time to get my ships perfected.  I am not going to give up.

 

Hey, we are going to the museum this weekend.  I will post pictures.

 


post-7263-0-88684200-1393424531_thumb.jpg

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I used a very small brush and a large magnifier on the detail. 

 

Wow, I am not alone ! And very steady hand, and patience, ( eralier you must put your familly in deep freeze)  and speed of 5 cm for 1x1 mm rail by half an hour is a good speed

 

Magnifier is great helper for me in paint job, and as begginer I was supprised with results

 

Dont forget to drug your ket/dog and to burn all telephone lines before

 

Kidding ( about family and pets)

Edited by Nenad M

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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I'll have to second Harvey and Andys suggestions for masking off. Its slow and tedious to mask correctly but the results are worth it. Doubling the trouble is that white paint desn't cover well and 2 or ore coats are required so masking saves that much more time. Painting the scroll work on the billet head is tricky and sometimes you have to clean up either with an Exacto knife or cover it with more black. Good luck on your build. BILL

Bill, in Idaho

Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015

Next  Model Shipways Syren

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Dullcote-you should be able to get it at a hobby shop (it's made by Testor's)

 

Tamiya tape-your local hobby shop should carry it, but I've haven't had as much luck. I suspect online hobby shops carry it.

 

And Bill is correct about taking more than one coat. Lighter colors are always harder to get good coverage on a dark base. That's another reason many clean the plastic and coat it with primer. It gives you something lighter to start with (as well as a better surface for paint to adhere to).

 

It's not unusual to need to put 3-4-5 coats of white over a darker surface. Just make sure the coats are thin coats of white (thin as in thickness of the paint layer, not thin as in lots of thinner in the paint). It's a constant battle to get enough paint on to cover the base color but not so much as to cover up the detail.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

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I decided to tape off with the Tamiya tape like you guys told me to.  I did find it at the hobby store.  I figured I should probably start learning how to tape off.  I spent all afternoon on it.  I did 4 thin coats.  This is what I ended up with.  I did my best to clean up where it did mess up.  It is so tough to do this part.  The white paint is so hard to work with.  I am not sure what I am going to do.  Either leave it like it is, cover it up and try again, cover it up and leave it black, or cover it up and go a head and try the white pen.  I am not sure how it is going to look if I try to cover it up again.  I am quite disheartened that I can't get it perfect.  What do you guys think would be the best move at this point?

 

  post-7263-0-35093300-1393465971_thumb.jpg

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Kimberley,

 

You're at a point that we've all been at (and will be again every time we work on our models)-how good is good enough? I'm afraid you're the only person who can answer that.

 

We can all see every error we make on our models-every slip of the paintbrush, every knot that doesn't look correct, every piece we install-we can second guess ourselves forever.

 

Ask any of the "experts" here-for every model they've made that we see as perfect in every way, they see imperfections and dozens of things that they would love to do over.

 

And the truth is-almost everybody will see what you've done and think it's fantastic.

 

I suggest you look at your progress in this light-is my desire for perfection getting in the way of my enjoyment of building ship models? If it is, it's probably time to move on to the next step and call what you've done "good enough".

 

Another thought-you can look at the instructions and work on some other aspect of the model-the deck, the cannon, the ship's boats, the spars-we all need a change of pace when we've hit a roadblock. Sometimes working on something else helps-sometimes, stepping away from it for couple of days helps.

 

Also, remember that the work that you're doing now, regardless of how you feel about it, is experience that you will use on your next model-and the one after that. We start out knowing very little and add to our knowledge every time we work on our models.

 

I don't know if I answered your question or not, but I hope this helps.

 

And please keep asking quesitons! You've got the largest group of knowledgeable ship modelers in the world here-and we all want to help.

 

Thanks,

 

Harvey

 

 

 

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Kim

 

if I, as a relative novice, can help with my small experience.

 

I did plastic kits long long ago, and there was no way to get straight line with paintbrush (not even when you close your nose to model, always very very visible and ugly )

 

In my CS I tried different approach, with magnifier, and slowed painting work as much as I can, with the thinnest paint brush I can find

 

With magnifier, with thinnest brush you can find, and only with a little drop of paint in top of brush, you can do much more precise. And a little mistake you make and see with magnifier you can not correct, IS NOT VISIBLE with eye only.

 

Do edges carefully first, and then surface. Secret is in SLOWLY moves of hand

 

As I said, I simply could not paint anything precise without this technique

 

With magnifier and thin brush, I was delighted with results ( masters sure can do this better)

 

See attached picture. And to notice, there are two layers of dark acrylic 

 

I hope it helps

 

Nenad

 

post-4738-0-54064800-1393488834.jpg

Edited by Nenad M

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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Kimberly

 

Given the number of bumps molded into the hull, I'd say you did a very good job.  As Harvey said, we are often our own worst critics and we can drive ourselves crazy trying to get everything "perfect".  The good news - when you get to the larger scale Conny down the road, those bumps (which are part of the chain plates) will be separate pieces that get attached after the stripe is painted, which will make the taping off much easier.  Sometimes the small scale plastic models try to put so much pre-formed detail into the mold that it makes it very difficult to work with.

 

If you had started your taping-off experiment with the copper plating, you would have gotten a better feel for how well the process can work.  There is much less in the way at that section of the hull and it is possible to get a much cleaner tape and paint line down.  I agree with Harvey, take a step away for a day or two, work on something else, and then come back to this.  You may find that it looks better than you think it does right now.  It's always that "patience" thing :).  I have heard it said that patience is the most important tool in the toolbox, and the more I do this, the more I believe it.

 

Bob

Current build -- MS Bluenose

Future build - MS Flying Fish

 

"A ship is safe in harbor, but that's not what ships are for." - William G. T. Shedd

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Harvey, yes you did answer my question.  What you said made a lot of sense to me.  I am not happy with it.  I covered it up, but I am also going to step away from it right now and work on other things.  You are right.  What is the point of building model ships if you are not enjoying it.  I am letting that one white line drive me nuts.  I learn something from you guys every time you talk to me.  My next ship, I am going to prime it first.  I understand now why you want to prime it.  At least I think I do.  You prime it so if you make a mistake that you need to redo you can go back over it with your primer color because it will match the primer.  I can't match the black plastic perfectly with a black paint when I cover up mistakes.  Am I close as to why you prime it?  I don't always catch on to what you guys are trying to tell me at first, but then from experience I start understanding some of the things you are trying to explain and teach to me.

 

Nenad, your finished line looks great!  I need my young steady hands again. ;)   My hands are not as steady as they used to be.  I got the straight line on the copper part because I did do the edge first, and I did it nice and slow.  Then I filled in the surface.   The white sure is not as forgiving as other colors.  It is very intimidating.

 

On a positive note, I did get the x-acto with hands and magnifying glass yesterday.  I am using my Birthday money to buy stuff for my model ship building.

 

I really appreciate you guys sticking with me and trying to help me out.  

 

Kimberley 

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Kim

 

I am older than you (54)  :P

 

Nenad

In progress:

CUTTY SARK - Tehnodidakta => scratch => Campbell plans

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-1#entry64653

Content of log :

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-tehnodidakta-scratched-campbells-plans/page-62#entry217381

Past build:

Stella, Heller kit, plastic, Santa Maria, Tehnodidakta kit, wood, Jolly Roger Heller kit, plastic

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Thanks Bob.  I missed your post because I got up from my chair before finishing my last post.  I can practice the taping off on my first Connie, and on another ship that I totally messed up.  I am truly looking forward to my large Connie, because I do believe it is going to be easier to work on a large ship.  I need a bigger work space before I start that one. 

 

Eric is already planning on making a bigger work space for me.  We are using one of our extra guest rooms to work in.  We need to get rid of the twin beds in there so we will have more space.  He has been doing model car kits as I work on my ships, but he does not take it as serious as I am with my ship building.  He just wanted to have something we could do together.  He likes to work on real cars.  We bought a 1976 MG Midget last fall that he is restoring.  He has been trying to work with me on painting techniques.  Unlike me, he is good at free hand painting.  He is really happy I have you guys trying to help me out and giving me tips on these ships.  He is on 2 forums for real cars.

 

Kimberley    

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Kimberly, I too have struggled with painting the small stuff.  My last attempt was for the transom of the 1:96 Revell Constitution.  I had some success using the side of a small wide brush to transfer paint to the raised areas...almost like dry brushing.  I'm going to go over it again with a mag glass and tiny brush like Nenad suggests...I think that will help.  Also, like others have said, good brushes are important as is good quality paint that is not too thick.  Thick paint with a cheap brush is going to be very hard to work with.

 

Nenad, thanks for that tip...I had seen others mention it, but your explanation with the picture finally caused a light bulb to go off for me.   

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I am mostly using Testors enamel on this one.  I am also using Model Master clear gloss and some Vallejo acrylic.  I don't know how good those are.  You may be right.  I may need to get some better brushes.  I am using a set Eric got me for Christmas one year when I thought I wanted to learn how to do water color painting.  I will ask him if they are good brushes or not.  I truly don't know.  I have been playing around with the different sizes and ends to see how each one works.  

 

I didn't have a lot of luck when I tried the dry brushing.  I probably had too much paint on my brush.  I did the name plate with a small brush.  I still need to learn how much paint to put on a brush when I am painting.

 

I still have a lot to learn.

 

Kimberley 

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Here is a link to some "small" brushes.  They are SMALL...  

 

http://www.amazon.com/La-Corneille-Miniature-Detail-Cornell/dp/B007Z1NLW6

 

I also know tiny brushes can be found at all the chain hobby shops (Hobby Lobby and Michaels).  I like the synthetics but most would probably say to go with sable.  Also, look for those that end in a small tight point...that enables the brush to put the paint only where its needed.

 

Sounds like the paint you are using is good stuff.

 

I usually hated it when my parents said this, but "Practice makes perfect"   :D

 

Good luck!

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Kimberley,
Something else you might try. After masking take some clear (make sure it's compatible with your paint) the dullcoat mentioned earlier should work, and lightly brush some over over the areas you are going to paint white. Make sure you get some on the mask also. Let it dry and then do your white. This will seal the edge and should allow you to get a crisp line with out bless bleeding through under your masking.
The scenic artists where I work do this regularly when bleed under will be disastrous.
Try it on one of your old ships you mentioned. Also I find dentil tools indispensable for rubbing tape into tight corners.
Good luck and more importantly have fun. Your build looks better then you give yourself credit for.

Sam

Edited by src

Current Build Constructo Enterprise

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