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Posted

Ben,

Don't feel bad.  I put the blade on backwards and generated max smoke... recently.  :blush:

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted (edited)

Hi Ben

 

How does the saying go ..."S..t happens"!!!! Honestly, I think I can recount an interminable amount of times I've made similar errors only to feel a bit sheepish afterwards!

 

No dramas, though. It's the end result that counts and your ship's looking brilliant.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Edited by Omega1234
Posted

Where's the fun, without the smoke?

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

Posted

She's really looking like a lean, mean, fighting machine now! Once it's done, you'll have to take a good picture that can be copied a bunch of times, and photoshop the battle of Salamis or something ;)

~ Ben

___________________________________________________________________________________________________

Current Builds:

'Doll-Boat' - 1:12 scale 40' Cruising Sailboat

S.S. Edmund Fitzgerald - 1:350 plastic kit w/ Photo Etch Parts (On Hold)

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I clear coated the bottom of my boat with several coats of spray only to find that it dried in several spots like there was oil there, So I sanded it smooth you can see the results in the picture. Problem is when I used epoxy to glue together the planks I smoothed the excess over the planks I joined thinking I was going to seal the wood, bad idea! Epoxy it seems repels some paints and clear coats plus it won't blend together with itself just sticks together so sealing wood with it is a bad idea.

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Edited by bensid54
Posted

Yes Patrick painting the hull would be a shame but I am finding a way around it. With a wire wheel attachment for my Dremil I can actually move the epoxy in waves plus some sprays off because it becomes fluid when heated so I can get most of it to spray off and what doesn't get flung off piles up and moves along as you see in the picture. Once I have the wood mostly clear of epoxy I use 240 grit sand paper which takes it back down to the wood, very time consuming but worth it in the end.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'm about 3/4 of the way to having all the epoxy removed and am now finding cracks between the planks that the epoxy did not fill, so my next job will be to carefully fill those cracks. So as it turned out the mistake I made in the first place helped me correct a mistake I made before that.

Posted

Hi Ben.

Im surpriced watching your effords trying to build your ship.My opinion on your problem.

You should have sealed the interior firstly,i mean the inner shell to avoid any structures timber deformation when it contacts with water.Its important also before paint the body to use wood sealant colour putty just to ensure its sealled,and before use any paint or varnish ,need to apply a primer oil.

Excelent work

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Posted (edited)

Just for info.

An exact copy of trireme has been build in Piraeus shipyards on 1987.

Name .Olympias.

On May 2004 she carried the Olympic flame

This war ship that took place in 480bc salamis battle.

Warner bros has taken the licence for digital representation to use this model plans for the movie Rise of the empire

 

.Themistocles.

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Edited by ioannis
Posted (edited)

Watched the trailer now I want to see the movie. Ioannis do you have a Bireme as well as a Trireme? The Trireme looks like the mechanics would be easier to make now that I have the Bireme somewhat figured out, I built the Bireme because there were less oars to deal with and I had never built a rowing ship or even a static model of one before. I am getting Greek warship fever though and the Trireme is becoming more attractive to build a RC replica of. I also am making plans to build a RC model of the Boatman of the river Styx, I plan on mounting a camera under his hood and have his head turn left and right so I can use my Fat Shark goggles to cruise around a pond. Is it possible for me to get plans of the actual Trireme? 

Edited by bensid54
Posted (edited)

i will do my best to find any plans or photoes

by the way i was lucky to get on board ...on the above picture .Olympias.but i must look for my old digital pictures 

post-20953-0-93269800-1439149514.jpg

Οlympias lenght 37 m

                draft 1.30 m 

                max speed 7-9 knοts 

fast maneuvring in shallow waters

post-20953-0-38202700-1439149544_thumb.jpg Olympias midships section

 

 

trireme had many types with different lengh

Combat Trireme ship max lengh 45 m ,Breadth 6 m 

 

Trireme had  3 decks and 200 men.

upper deck men named as thranites 54 men as rowers

middle 2nd deck men named as zigites  54 men as rowers

lower deck men named as thalamites 62 men as rowers  ,on this level it was captains room

The 2 main types are..

1]Hoplite trireme with sealled the 2 lower rowing levels,and the 108 rowers[thalamites] replaced  by heavy and light  hoplites and their supplies.

 

2]Horse carrying Trireme up to 30 horses for cavarly

type of wood they used pine .fir,juniper

post-20953-0-38907400-1439149771_thumb.jpg 

 

Trireme crew

Captain

chief officer

3-4 officers

2 wheelmen

2 piper

10-20 marine armoured for combat

170 rowers- free men not slaves-It was honorable to be as a rower inside this ship .....i wouldnt like it....in  case of combat they fight also

10 crew assistance

I hope  i helped you somehow i will look around for more.

WELL enough for now enjoy the movie post-20953-0-11930700-1439153179.jpg

 

OLYMPIAS PLAN

post-20953-0-91228900-1439152690_thumb.jpg

Edited by ioannis
Posted

Not sure how to take the Donkey bit. The reason I like doing these things is not so much making it accurate but in the thinking up and creating the mechanics. Give you an idea how my mind works, because I'm a Mechanic I like to figure out how things work even down to the human body, I look at my body as a machine which is how I invented my leg cramp prevention device. I looked at my toes and what happens to them during a severe leg cramp the fact my toes always head in the same direction when I get a cramp gave me an idea, I created a device I wear 24/7 that has prevented leg cramps for the last three years so I patented it, I have several people wearing these things and they work for all of us. The thing about my invention is it doesn't make sense and yet it works great, that's the bottom line. You will see as I build things that my thoughts don't always follow the beaten path, sometimes that's good and sometimes it gets me in trouble but I won't give up till I make it work. I already have an idea how to work all those oars of a Trireme which will actually follow the lines of the hull this too has never been done but I can see it working, but first I want to build the oarsman for the river Styx before I start another long project. Still scratching my head over this Jacka$$ thing though.

Posted (edited)

:pirate41:    Ben >About the donkey..is a....

Greek proverbs meaning  a man  who has great patience to manage what he wants ^_^  ^_^  ^_^

Your patent is great and helps people who suffer.

Im sure you will find a way with moving oars .

The one  who tries and insists with the patience always succeed>>>another pvb

Edited by ioannis
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Been a while since I've done anything on the Bireme due to trying to get my scale RC helicopter in the air which is very much delayed. I've also been trying to get my leg cramp prevention invention public which is almost impossible even though it is hassle free and does not require meds, thank God I only blew the cash on a Canadian patent, so if you think you will make money on an invention think again.

Back to the Bireme: I have removed about half the unwanted epoxy and have only damaged not destroyed a few planks so that is good I hope to have some progress pictures in the next week or two. I plan on dedicating all my hobby time to the Bireme and hopefully not get distacted as I have been this summer. 

Posted

Went out and got myself covered in dust today and cleaned the epoxy off of the bottom of the hull using a rotary wire brush on my Dremil. In places where the epoxy was thin it came off quite easily but in the places it was thick the epoxy came off like candy floss. The epoxy also started to pile up as I moved along during removal sort of like snow would do when pushed with a plow. 

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Posted

Finally got the unwanted epoxy off the hull I used 80,100,120 and 240 grit sandpaper. I used a rotary wire brush and a 80 grit flapper wheel to get the thick epoxy off, I found the flapper wheel worked the best out of the two. The whole epoxy removal took me about six hours to do, very dusty work but worth it in the end. 

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Posted

The good thing about all the sanding was it showed the places I had water ingress, you can see the gaps and cracks that were not really visible to my eyes. I will have some small areas that will need attention so that will be next, after that the rudder mechanics go in. Funny thing is with all my other boats I was always in a hurry to get to my next build but not this, I haven't got bored of it even after over a year. 

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Posted

Rudders and pivot plates, the drilled plywood will be glued in their proper location and have about 1/4 inch separation between them to allow for the hidden servo linkage to go. When finished the levers on top will move with the rudders so I guess I should make up some flexible little guys on top to steer or just call it a ghost ship!

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Patrick could you please do me a favour and download my latest video? Rudders are now functional, the turning range isn't too much but the idea of the rudders was more for stability as opposed to steering. Now it's time to finish the sails, woodwork and brass battering ram.   

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