drtrap Posted January 18, 2014 Author #271 Posted January 18, 2014 Hi mates, a question in brief...: how can I measure the width of a rope/line of the market, I mean how can I make clear its width/diameter? Thanks Ok, I think I've found it.... Quote
drtrap Posted January 19, 2014 Author #272 Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) Fixing the wire-hole for the breeching rope.. The second photo illustrates a minor complication regarding the thread of the passing screw... Edited January 19, 2014 by Stergios egkb, Beef Wellington, Gregor and 1 other 4 Quote
drtrap Posted January 19, 2014 Author #273 Posted January 19, 2014 ...I've problem with two elevation screws as they can't penetrate the respective hole of the barrel.... I've applied for replacement at cornwallmodelboats.... Beef Wellington 1 Quote
drtrap Posted January 29, 2014 Author #274 Posted January 29, 2014 Still waiting for the "out of stock" replacement parts... In the meantime I'm looking for any tutorial or guide to help me with the rigging of the breeching rope and the tackle for the guns. Have u used any special method? Thank you Quote
jim_smits Posted January 29, 2014 #275 Posted January 29, 2014 Still waiting for the "out of stock" replacement parts... In the meantime I'm looking for any tutorial or guide to help me with the rigging of the breeching rope and the tackle for the guns. Have u used any special method? Thank you Hi, I think between the builds from BeefW and myself there is quite a bit on rigging of carronades. Take a look on the builds and ask if there are any gaps.... Jim Quote Jim-----Current builds:HMS SnakeHMS HoodMechanical Solar SystemCompleted builds:HMS Ballahoo
drtrap Posted February 10, 2014 Author #276 Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) Trying to set a correct device for the rigging of the guns. This is a second hand "jig" for 24's carronades (I'll use the 32's) just to feel more familiar with the rigging of the breeching rope. The whole procedure especially for the seizing and using PVA to secure the knots is so time consuming... Thinking of use cyano to proceed faster. In the other hand an alternative option to avoid the knots: pro-made seizing (using 0,25 line and PVA. Cyano glue makes too dificult to withdraw the setting from the drill...). Edited February 10, 2014 by Stergios WackoWolf and Beef Wellington 2 Quote
normanh Posted February 10, 2014 #277 Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) Be careful on the overall height of the barrel in relationship to the deck and the gunport my friend, those look might high and look like they will foul the top of the gunport. Norman Edited February 10, 2014 by normanh Quote Norman Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck. Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake. Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon.
drtrap Posted February 10, 2014 Author #278 Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) Be careful on the overall height of the barrel in relationship to the deck and the gunport my friend, those look might high and look like they will foul the top of the gunport. Norman Hi Norman those pics are without the placement of the rear elevation screw and just for practice.. In every case I'll test the relative heights.... Thanks Edited February 10, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted February 10, 2014 Author #279 Posted February 10, 2014 (edited) Be careful on the overall height of the barrel in relationship to the deck and the gunport my friend, those look might high and look like they will foul the top of the gunport. Norman These are the relative heights using the 24's and 32's carronades respectively... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/634-hms-snake-by-stergios/page-9 Edited February 10, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted February 13, 2014 Author #280 Posted February 13, 2014 (edited) Next step, trying to improve my other skill: seizing of the breeching rope. Except the tecnique I'm showing in the photo (green testing rope), I'm trying to find any step by step tutorial to seize the rope using multiple (I think) "half-hitch" knots... Any idea on this? Thanks. The naturac color rope is Amati, 1mm in diameter. I wonder how could Jason pass it through the eyelet, even with the edge hardened with cyano.... Edited February 15, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted February 13, 2014 Author #281 Posted February 13, 2014 ................ tutorial to seize the rope using multiple (I think) "half-hitch" knots... Any idea on this? I would say better to wrap the rope.... Quote
Beef Wellington Posted February 15, 2014 #282 Posted February 15, 2014 Hi Stergios, its definitely not easy to get them through, I seem to remember not using cyano at all, but what I found works best was if you cut the line at an angle so it has a 'pointed' end it is much easier (may be necessary to wet a little). I would have like to use a slightly large line, but the the inability to get through the eyes was the limiting factor. Next time, I think I'll try to add rings to the eyebolts which allows for larger line, I did take that approach on the cannons breach ring. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted February 16, 2014 Author #283 Posted February 16, 2014 Hi Stergios, its definitely not easy to get them through, I seem to remember not using cyano at all, but what I found works best was if you cut the line at an angle so it has a 'pointed' end it is much easier (may be necessary to wet a little). I would have like to use a slightly large line, but the the inability to get through the eyes was the limiting factor. Next time, I think I'll try to add rings to the eyebolts which allows for larger line, I did take that approach on the cannons breach ring. Thanks Jason, I'm thinking to use the same aftermarket 1mm Amati line. It is the testing natural line in my last photo... I suppose that you've placed only a single half-hitch at the eyes, am I right? Thanks. Quote
Beef Wellington Posted February 16, 2014 #284 Posted February 16, 2014 I suppose that you've placed only a single half-hitch at the eyes, am I right? Thanks. Correct Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted February 23, 2014 Author #285 Posted February 23, 2014 (edited) Hi mates. I would like to ask you, what’s the best stage of the construction to upgrade the base of the model in your opinion. I’ve created in advance two holes (3mm in diameter/9mm depth) under the ship to support her with the relative 3mm rods. Do you believe that the mentioned diameter and depth of the wholes/rods will be secure for the stability of the ship in to the future? Thanks. Edited February 23, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted February 23, 2014 Author #286 Posted February 23, 2014 (edited) Zip seizings in progress... I'm turning the line around a drill of 1,5 mm diameter according to the correct theoritical ratio... I've purcased the line from the local stores. The ideal would be to use a line of 0,25mm but I prefer much better this type for the mo Edited February 23, 2014 by Stergios mort stoll, egkb, WackoWolf and 1 other 4 Quote
drtrap Posted February 23, 2014 Author #287 Posted February 23, 2014 Chequing up the relative heights and aft space of the deck to accomodate the most aft pair of carronades. My plan is to totally thread and accomplish the rigging of the posterior/aft pair of carronades to be able later on to fix the ladders at the right place/distance... egkb, Beef Wellington, mort stoll and 2 others 5 Quote
Beef Wellington Posted February 24, 2014 #288 Posted February 24, 2014 Really starts to add some character when the carronades are in place, coming together really nicely. I see you are leaving the elevation screw brass as well...I like it Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted February 24, 2014 Author #289 Posted February 24, 2014 Really starts to add some character when the carronades are in place, coming together really nicely. I see you are leaving the elevation screw brass as well...I like it Sometimes I think to use blackened elevation screws Jason, as a natural sign of corrosion/wear etc.... Quote
drtrap Posted March 5, 2014 Author #290 Posted March 5, 2014 Hi guys, any quick tutorial on how to create hooks from eyelets? Thanks Quote
Beef Wellington Posted March 5, 2014 #291 Posted March 5, 2014 (edited) Stergios, don't think there is that much to it - assume you are using the same 2mm eyelets. I found that small round nosed pliers are very helpful to get the initial hook bent which is most logical first step, but once you've done that its even possible to fine tune with your fingers. Putting a small bend next to the eye itself makes things look a little more authentic. These can be fiddly to make, and if I had any advice it would be to not be too obsessed with getting them identical, once installed the overall effect hides inconsistencies. Some photos from my log... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/509-hms-snake-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-scale-1-64-first-wooden-ship-build/page-21#entry95439 Edited March 5, 2014 by Beef Wellington egkb and drtrap 2 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted March 5, 2014 Author #292 Posted March 5, 2014 Thank you jason. I've finished with the breeching rope rigging of all the 16 carronades and the 2 cannons. It's time to test the 2mm aftermarkt blocks using 0,1 mm natural rope to create the tackling for the whole of the weaponry. Quote
drtrap Posted March 5, 2014 Author #293 Posted March 5, 2014 (edited) A couple of shots showing the consecutive steps for the "rigging" of the 9 lbs cannons. I need to do the final trimming.... Edited March 5, 2014 by Stergios egkb and Aussie048 2 Quote
drtrap Posted March 5, 2014 Author #294 Posted March 5, 2014 (edited) For the zip seizing of the breeching rope I've used an every-day's sewing line.from the local store. I have 'nt trimmed yet the excessive line from the seizing Edited March 5, 2014 by Stergios Aussie048, Beef Wellington, WackoWolf and 1 other 4 Quote
Beef Wellington Posted March 6, 2014 #295 Posted March 6, 2014 Looks great Stergios, what was your technique for the serving that you got on the breachrope, it look slike you wrapped thread around some sort of tube and and fed the thicker line through afterwards (?). I have to ask, how did you find the making of the carronades to the cannons, for me, the cannons are a much more fun to put assemble. drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)
drtrap Posted March 6, 2014 Author #296 Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) Thanks Jason. Have a look here (#276), http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/634-hms-snake-by-stergios/page-19 For 1mm breeching rope the ideal is making the seizing 1,5 mm in diameter. I used a 1,5 mm wire to wrap around the thread eight times, thin cyano to seal it and a small metal plate to retract the seizing. The ideal thread for seizing is always 0,25 mm in diameter but how i told you i prefered and used a larger ordinary sewing thread. Cheers Edited March 6, 2014 by Stergios Beef Wellington 1 Quote
drtrap Posted March 6, 2014 Author #297 Posted March 6, 2014 Looks great Stergios, what was your technique for the serving that you got on the breachrope, it look slike you wrapped thread around some sort of tube and and fed the thicker line through afterwards (?). I have to ask, how did you find the making of the carronades to the cannons, for me, the cannons are a much more fun to put assemble. ...I agree with you, with the cannons was a greater fun-time Quote
drtrap Posted March 7, 2014 Author #298 Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) I'm fully disappointed with the quality of the 2 mm aftermarket block. No lateral grooves to help rope stropping, especialy in such micro-dimensions..... Thinking again those 3 mm blocks of the standard kit..... Edited March 8, 2014 by Stergios Quote
drtrap Posted March 8, 2014 Author #299 Posted March 8, 2014 Stergios, don't think there is that much to it - assume you are using the same 2mm eyelets..... Stergios, don't think there is that much to it - assume you are using the same 2mm eyelets. I found that small round nosed pliers are very helpful to get the initial hook bent which is most logical first step, but once you've done that its even possible to fine tune with your fingers. Putting a small bend next to the eye itself makes things look a little more authentic. These can be fiddly to make, and if I had any advice it would be to not be too obsessed with getting them identical, once installed the overall effect hides inconsistencies. Some photos from my log... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/509-hms-snake-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-scale-1-64-first-wooden-ship-build/page-21#entry95439 Jason I'm thinking to use the standard eyelets from the kit, especially to make the tackling with the 3mm blocks.... Quote
drtrap Posted March 8, 2014 Author #300 Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) Jason, Jim, I'd like to ask you about the 3mm blocks, have you filled down those blocks corners or did you strop them as they were in the kit? Cheers Edited March 8, 2014 by Stergios Quote
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