Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

It's time to go back to the deck fittings.

Two basic questions before I proceed: have you glued only or pin-fixed the fittings and especialy the grattings on the deck?

Have you applied any varnish on those fittings? Slightly coloured or uncoloured?

Thank u in advance.

 

Stergios

Posted

I didn't pin the gratings, just glued to the deck.  All the other fittings (especially the pin rails) were pinned as these need to take some strain from the rigging.  Matt (uncoloured) varnish was used on everything.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Posted (edited)

I didn't pin the gratings, just glued to the deck.  All the other fittings (especially the pin rails) were pinned as these need to take some strain from the rigging.  Matt (uncoloured) varnish was used on everything.

Thanks Jason

Edited by Stergios
Posted (edited)

It's coming together nicely!

 

Definitely easier installing deck eyelets without other deck furniture in the way.........

That;s right Jim!

I'll try to postpone fixing those fittings the later I can....

Edited by Stergios
Posted (edited)

Now trying to figure out the "course anatomy" of the anchor rope.

Looking at the drawings of the kit and the photos of senior mates I think that first step is to fix the 1st rope edge on the deck beneath the anterior grating (propably using those holes mentioned by Jason some posts above) and leave the other edge loose for tying the anchor many steps later.  

Edited by Stergios
Posted

I plan to leave for the moment unglued the gratings and the basic deck fittings and start to deal with the bowsprit placement and the bowsprit bracket fit.

Is there any contra-indication on this by your experience?

Thank you.

Posted

Stergios - don't think you'll encounter any issues installing gratings at this point if you choose to, but doing that later would probably be just fine as well.  Its definitely a good idea to do the bowsprit while you still have room, it will also allow you to get the anchor cable installed if you choose to wrap it around the bowsprit bracket/bitts.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Posted (edited)

Thank you Jason.

 

I'm trying to study currently the procedures needed for the bowsprit installation. I dont't feel very happy and that I'm on the safe side with it...

It is supposed that to start I have to cut the 8 mm dowel at a length of 212 mm but I don't know whether this dimension is the right one in practise, especially when the angle of inclination of the bowsprit and its central edge placement (pinned or glued on the deck) can easily alter (?) the levers and the attachments of the other edge... 

So, starting to share a lot of question for this I'd like to ask you, did you encounter any initial problems with the length of 212 mm?

Do you suggest as my 1st step to dry fix the bowsprit bracket and test/file the central edge of the dowel accordingly before I cut to length of the sheet No2 212 mm?

Every help would be appreciated..! 

Edited by Stergios
Posted

I decided the most important thing was to ensure was the length of the bowsprit from the front of the hull matched the plans, rather than shaping exactly according to the plan.   Before I cut the bowsprit to length, the end that attaches to the deck under the bracket was shaped to ensure that the bowsprit angle was correct (I drilled a hole for a pin to help ensure consistent positioning).  Once that is known, its pretty simple to then measure from the bow to determine where you need to cut bowsprit to give correct length.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Posted (edited)

Thank you Jason.

By looking sheet No 1 the distance a>b is 13 cm. When I'll shape and fix the central edge beneath the bowsprit bracket, I'll cut the dowel to a point as to keep that distance from the anterior front of the hull.

post-944-0-82164800-1400075384.jpg

Edited by Stergios
Posted (edited)

Ooopppss.

The inclination seems nice (or not ?) but the central edge of the dowel can not reach the "docking point" of the bowsprit bracket.

Thinking to use a round file to enlarge the bowsprit hole or to file the central 1/4 edge of the dowel to pass it through that I've created in advance. 

post-944-0-50374000-1400075980_thumb.jpg

post-944-0-39995600-1400075982_thumb.jpg

post-944-0-86872100-1400075983_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stergios
Posted

Did you flatten the end of the dowel?  That will make it sit further back, it will also affect the angle slightly.  I have pictures in my log - I also found that the bowsprit was seemed to want to finish in front of the bowsprit brackers, that was mainly why I used a false end in the bracket to hide this, but keep the angle of the bowsprit appropriate.  If you haven't already seen it, I did keep track of the various challenges/mistakes I made doing this so that may be worth a look.  Best of luck!

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Posted

Did you flatten the end of the dowel?  That will make it sit further back, it will also affect the angle slightly.  I have pictures in my log - I also found that the bowsprit was seemed to want to finish in front of the bowsprit brackers, that was mainly why I used a false end in the bracket to hide this, but keep the angle of the bowsprit appropriate.  If you haven't already seen it, I did keep track of the various challenges/mistakes I made doing this so that may be worth a look.  Best of luck!

I'm so closely following your log Jason and Jim's log too.

I'll keep you informed.

 

Cheers 

Posted (edited)

This is a basic question for my snake mates.

Following the plan No 2 I'm measuring a bowsprit outer length (from the front of the hull to the other edge, a>b (see my previous drawing)) of about 13 cm long.

The length of the relative Jiboom is about 15 cm long.

Do you kindly confirm the above dimensions to enable me to avoid any important mistake?

Thank you.

 

PS: For the anchor, have you used the standard natural 2,5 mm rope of the kit?

Edited by Stergios
Posted

Stergios - I think you put your update in the wrong log (Jim's Ballahoo log), suggest you remove that and repost it here.  I'll put my question here though, did you decide not to make the top of the masts square?  That is how they would be on the real ship, the round hole for the main mast needs to be squared off and the of the mast made square.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...