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HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft


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I wouldn't normally use it for bonding a non-wooden piece to wood. If you're trying to bond something like metal or plastic then I'd use CA glue.

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I wouldn't normally use it for bonding a non-wooden piece to wood. If you're trying to bond something like metal or plastic then I'd use CA glue.

Thanks Patrick

I'm asking to bond wood to wood items trying to avoid those undesired glossy spots from the cyano micro-leakage on the deck... 

Cheers

Edited by Stergios
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I'm about to sand and fix the aft ladders in place...

Jason, Jim have you painted/varnished the wallnut of such deck fittings or have you left them uncovered as natural walnut?

Thanks.

 

Stergios

 

I used PVA wherever possible on untreated wood, but in a number of spots CA is necessary because the surfaces were sealed (either paint or varnish).  I used CA for the ladders, but had finished them with matt varnish beforehand, otherwise I've noticed that that CA glue can seep into the wood grain and it leaves unfixable dark patches.  Thick CA is my preference as it tends to take the longest to set so maybe gives you a few more micro-seconds to adjust things  :)

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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  • 2 weeks later...

All the 18 carronades in place...

I've placed the additional couple of the cannons temporarily in front of the most anterior openings just to have a general idea..

My plan is to continue (and finish) with the tackling of the carronades & cannons and leave the deck fittings fixing (ladders, capstan, companionway, pumps) for later ...

post-944-0-89528300-1396200558_thumb.jpg

post-944-0-67994000-1396200567_thumb.jpg

post-944-0-87633300-1396200569_thumb.jpg

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Looking great Stergios.  If you're not planning to already, I'd suggest getting the staghorns and bulwark cleats installed sooner rather than later as this will get trickier as the deck fills up, the ones near the aft platform are probably the most challenging.  Forgive me for posting the photo below, but shows what I'm talking about.

 

post-891-0-33166000-1396202129_thumb.jpg

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I feel so tired every time I need to order aftermarket fittings especially to cover/substitute cheap and deficient materials..

The casting-material of the bulwark cleats is so deficient that the central pin is broken following a minor stress...... :angry:

So I'm about to place my aftermarket order for another time.....

Wishing to do it for the last time, I'd like to ask you my snake-friends do you suggest (from your advanced experience) to order any additional casting fitting should I need during the next stages (masts, etc...)

Thanks mates!

 

Stergios 

Edited by Stergios
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Stergios - only advice I can offer is to drill a hole that isn't too tight.  I didn't have too many problems with the pin breaking off but you're right that they are not strong.  I did have one break and its probably inevitable given the soft white metal, and don't think there are too many alternatives.  For the one that broke, I drilled a hole and inserted some wire - its probably a better solution all around, but didn't do that unless necessary.  Hopefully you'll breath a sigh of relief when the cleats are on and the guns are rigged - definitely a change of scene after that.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Carronades look great Stergios, very neat indeed.  as far as the ends go, in pictures I've seen they just hang loose for a below any frapping but well clear of the deck.  Each one seemed to have a mind of its own but cam off OK.  I think with your professional skills you'll be setting the standard here :)

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

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Hi to everyone.

Almost finished with the carronades rigging...

In your experience my friends what's next session or step you advise me to continue with?

Every time I see the manual I feel more unsecure than ever!

Cheers

 

Stergios

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Seeing as I did my Snake the other way round, you could progress onto the deck furniture?

 

My gratings and the hatches were in place before I did the carronades and I would definately do it the other way round next time...!

 

Also, try and map out where the deck eyelets need to be placed, they are shown on the belaying plan. There are far easier to install now rather than when the deck is full.

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

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Seeing as I did my Snake the other way round, you could progress onto the deck furniture?

 

My gratings and the hatches were in place before I did the carronades and I would definately do it the other way round next time...!

 

Also, try and map out where the deck eyelets need to be placed, they are shown on the belaying plan. There are far easier to install now rather than when the deck is full.

Thanks Jim for the help.

I'd like to ask you, it is important to fix the deck eylets as tightly as I can to withstand the tension of the line/rigging of the masts?

Thank you again 

Edited by Stergios
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Thanks Jim for the help.

I'd like to ask you, it is important to fix the deck eylets as tightly as I can to withstand the tension of the line/rigging of the masts?

Thank you again 

 

It is important to get a good fit. It is a balancing act however, between drilling a small enough hole to get a tight fit for the eyelets and making the hole too small and not being able to actually fit the eyelets. They have a tendency to bend under the slightest pressure, so very careful use of fine nosed pliers to push the eyelets in would be advised. I think I use a 0.5mm drill bit for the holes and then some thick cyano applied to the eyelet when fixing in place.

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

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Hi mate,

 

Yes, there are three pairs on the rear platform.

 

On sheet 3, which has the belaying plan, the others are marked:

 

A pair at belaying point 5 towards the middle of the main channel.

5 on the foremast.

5 on the mainmast.

3 on the mizzen mast.

 

This makes 23 which is more than is provided.....

 

I had to order some extra.

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

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Hi mate,

 

Yes, there are three pairs on the rear platform.

 

On sheet 3, which has the belaying plan, the others are marked:

 

A pair at belaying point 5 towards the middle of the main channel.

5 on the foremast.

5 on the mainmast.

3 on the mizzen mast.

 

This makes 23 which is more than is provided.....

 

I had to order some extra.

Hi Jim

I'm counting a total of 21 pieces (parts 8, 15, 16, 17, 18 and those three of the mizzen mast on plan No 3) and i feel lucky cause all those 21 pieces are in the box of the kit.

I'm so tired in ordering everytime new supplies and waiting approx. two weeks for the delivery....

Edited by Stergios
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Hi Jim

I'm counting a total of 21 pieces (parts 8, 15, 16,17, 18 and those three of the mizzen mast on plan No 3) and i feel lucky cause all those 21 pieces are in the box of the kit.

I'm so tired to order everytime new supplies and wait approx. two weeks for the delivery....

Yes that would be 21...... Ooops!

Jim
-----
Current builds:

HMS Snake
HMS Hood
Mechanical Solar System

Completed builds:

HMS Ballahoo

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