18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build

[gjdale]

Nice work Pops - and there's no such thing as "cheating"!

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Tks everybody.

 

Floyd, not treenailing this one.  Too small and I had enough problems just getting the planks on!  

 

Mike - Nope, no holes.  Just for clarification "in service" means (at least to me) that the boat is being used on a daily basis - not looking like it just came from the manufacturer.  That look (new) is ok, I just prefer something that looks more aged/scuffed/used.  Although, there are a couple of small holes in the planks at the stern between the 3rd and 4th planks (that spot where there is such a major change of direction.

 

Grant - I just meant I didn't follow the instructions.  But since I eventually want to scratch build, guess maybe that's a good thing.  Just couldn't get the edge glued boards cut without snapping something off somewhere.  So made them out of one piece.

 

Working on the thwarts and locker today.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

I was working on the oars while waiting for paint to dry and I have a question.

 

If my math is correct (5" oar x 48" scale = 240" or 20 feet).

 

Were the longboat oars really that long?

[Stuntflyer]

Longboat 1:48 scale 1/4"=1ft

 

Here is a good link on oars. . .   https://sites.google.com/site/shipwrightsfaq/smf-qoars

Edited June 24, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Tks for the link.

 

I don't have any boating/sailing experience (except one 3 day gambling cruise) and the only oars I've ever seen belonged to a canoe.

 

Never realized that there were so many (and so long) types of oars.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Party Time!!  

 

Just successfully blacked my first brass parts.  Those parts for the thwart holding the mast.

 

Took several tries, but figured out that if I run the brass strip thru some 400 a couple times before I make the parts, they are much cleaner and take the blackener perfectly.

 

Can't focus the camera that close so no pic, but you'll see them on the next shot.

[fnkershner]

Pops, Did you try Acetone? I prefer the Acetone to sanding. But you are correct you need to treat the metal before you blacken. I soak in Acetone then rinse. After everything is completely dry I blacken. I use a 2:1 mixture of the Blacken It. I am also careful to rinse this so that the chemical reaction stops. And then get it completely dry so that there is no rust.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Floyd - Yeah, I tried the acetone, didn't clean it enough.  My process was - draw the brass thru some 400 sand paper a couple times on the flat surface, then soak in acetone for 10 minutes, rinse, soak in vinegar for 10 minutes, rinse, soak in Novacan Black for about 10 min, rinse, pat dry.

 

I figured the acetone would remove finger oils left after sanding/handling.

 

However, I used a 10 to 1 ratio for the Novacan Black.  Maybe not strong enough because I noticed that it rubbed off in a couple small spots.

 

Actually, just read the instructions (gotta learn to do that first) and it says to use it straight from the bottle - so that's probably the problem.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Well, I've made a little bit of progress.

 

Got the thwarts installed.  

 

Here's the hull after the first coat of poly.  

 

It's not as "glossy" as in the images, but I'm gonna use a little steel wool, when it's finally completely dry.

I've noticed that putting enamel (testors) over the stain (minwax) extends the dry time from hours to days.  Is that common?

 

Maybe I should be using acrylics?

[dgbot]

Looking good,  What was the finsh you used. ?

David B

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

I just used Minwax Clear Satin but I don't use their wipe-on products, just a brush.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Got everything done up to the rudder.

 

Have not yet purchased the materials/torch for silver soldering what would be the second best method......

 

Regular CA, Extra Thin CA, or epoxy to attach the "pins" to the gudgeon?

[fnkershner]

That's what I would do Pops. CA should be the trick

[Mike Y]

I did it with gel CA (gel super glue). Regular or extra thin CA is very liquid, and will flow away from the tiny metal pieces, gluing your fingers to the planks. Terrible thing!

[dgbot]

Looking good.

David B

[tlevine]

Contact cement works very well in these situations where you have two dissimilar materials to join.  Apply a tiny bit to the pintle/gudgeon and to the model. Let dry according to the directions and then mount the hardware.  Just remember, you only have one try with contact cement.  The advantage is you do not have to worry about glue seepage.

[fnkershner]

Every time I use CA I am reminded why it was invented in the first place. To glue skin.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Toni, that "one try" thing is why I don't use contact cement anymore.  Hands are a little too shaky now.

 

Did it with CA (gap filling) and seemed to work fine.

 

Got the rudder on today and that completes everything ('cept the tiller and windlass handles which will be the very last 2 things to go on.

 

Sorry no pics, I'll get some up tomorrow.

 

Got my "lathe" set up so I can start tapering the masts, etc.  I'm hoping the rigging will be just as much fun (though frustrating at times) as the rest has been. 

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

What size drill bit did you guys use for the sheaves in the mast?

[Stuntflyer]

#69 or #70

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Thanks for the quick response.  Back to the shipyard.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Well, got the bow sprint mounted today.  Have completed shaping the boom and gaff, but have to re-do the main mast.  Seems I can't drill a perfectly vertical hole consistently.  Pictures to follow.

 

I have learned the following important things while working on this longboat...

 

1.  I love this craft/hobby without reservation.

 

2.  The most important thing (in my opinion) is accurate measurements (down to 1/64").

 

3.  Patience and perseverance are critical.

 

I'm changing my next build to the Bounty Launch so that I can get more experience planking and proper measuring (on a less expensive model) before I move to larger craft.

Edited July 5, 2014 by Pops

[fnkershner]

Pops, You may want to consider getting some additional wood for your Bounty Launch. I knew someone who built it with the wood supplied and he broke quit a bit of it trying to soak and bend.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Well, here's the pics I promised.  In real life things are not as "shiny" as they appear in these pictures.

 

Interior, everything done except tiller and and "arms" for the windlass......

 

 

Outer hull...............

 

 

Floyd - I just got notice from Model Expo that my 4 packages of 1/32" x 1/8" x 24" basswood have shipped.  Not sure what size is used for the Launch, but should be close and I still have about 25 12" strips from buying the Longboat twice.

 

I want to try boxwood but can't get it from Hobby Mill (because I live in Ohio as well) and I'm still not sure how to go about it at the Lumberyard (haven't figured out what the process is and how to make sure I'm ordering the right thing) but planning on getting "better" wood when I start my first larger ship.

Edited July 5, 2014 by Pops

[Chuck]

As another alternative you could try using hard maple and that is available here in sheets and strips.   Very inexpensive.  the wood is much harder than basswood and I have in fact used it for another pinnace build.   I used it for the frames and keel.   After applying wipe on poly it looks very good and very similar to boxwood.   It is not as hard as boxwood and you cant get as sharp an edge on teh wood but it is leaps and bounds better than basswood.

 

http://www.nationalbalsa.com/category_s/232.htm

 

Chuck

[fnkershner]

Ahem, Well if it will help you and Jeff do business. I would be willing to be the transshipment location. I.e. you order from me and I order from him. Slight shipping cost should be the only issue.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Chuck - Thanks much for the link.  That looks good and also it's 1/16" which gives me plenty of sanding room!      Got it bookmarked so I can pre-order when the time comes.

 

Floyd - Thanks for the offer BUT it's a sales tax issue for him and you know how the government gets when they don't get their share.   Don't want to create trouble for anybody. 

[dgbot]

As far as I am concerned Pops you are doing one heck of a job.  Congrat.

David B

[Stuntflyer]

I second David B. Looking very good!

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

TKS for the kind words guys.

 

It's acceptable for a first attempt, but will do things differently for the next one.

 

Currently trying (and trying and trying and trying) to make those teeny, tiny, did I say tiny? jaws for the gaff.  Can't seem to keep from breaking them.