18th Century Longboat by Nirvana - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48

[Mike Y]

Frame alignment is really critical to have a smooth shape of the hull, better fix it now, not fixable if planking is done.

I had just one single frame a bit out of line on Pinnace, it was hardly visible when model is not planked. Result - skewed hull shape. Nobody sees it except me, but I know it's there

[Stuntflyer]

Per, On my build every bulkhead's notch had to be opened up slightly as well as every notch in the false keel. We are talking about just enough to allow the bulkhead to move off perpendicular in both directions(fore and aft)as well as side to side. I used a block to get 90 degrees(see third photo on my build log http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4930-18th-century-longboat-by-stuntflyer-mike-model-shipways/). Once the first bulkhead was glued in place, I used my eye to align each subsequent bulkheads top to the one previously glued. Hope this helps. Mike

Edited May 24, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Nirvana]

I have tears in my eyes, after being away from home for about a week (work),

I came home to this

How this happened I don't know, I always making sure the door is closed and secured,

the admiral feels bad.

Office/workshop door was open when I got home.

But now I am back to square one.

 

Don't like it at all as I were very happy with the results to date.

Next is to call ModelExpo for replacement items.......     sigh

And start again.

Didn't want this at all. :(

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

 

Musta been the cat!  You gotta cat?

[fnkershner]

Per - Oh my! I am sorry to see this. I guess you are going back to working on the Harvey for about a week.

[Mike Y]

Ouch!!

But looks fixable with a good wood glue? Joint between stem and keel will handle the load, and false keel is thick enough to be edge glued?

[Chuck Seiler]

I agree with Mike Y.  It is very fixable.

[Stuntflyer]

Per, I'm also sorry to see this but I do agree with Mike Y. and Chuck S. As long as the broken off pieces are not smashed then you should be able to glue things back together. Besides, the false keel will not show on the finished model. If you need a stem, I have one still in the laser sheet. I would be more than happy to send it to you.

Edited June 14, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[fnkershner]

Since I started over on my false Keel twice. I have 5 spare Stems. You can have them all!

[Nirvana]

Okay, repair work commenced and turned out that the stem piece was broken where the keel meets up, didn't see until I had the stem fixed without checking with the false and true keel.

Bummer, new stem is to be manufactured.

Edited June 15, 2014 by Nirvana

[samueljr]

Unless you're going to have a natural finish (as opposed to a white bottom of some sort) why would you have to manufacture a new stem?

 

Just cut the bad area square and cut a corresponding size piece out of the scrap sheet the parts came off of. Glue it on, Fill and sand the joints and paint as if nothing happened.

 

Just asking?

 

Sam

[Nirvana]

Sam,

Keel and stem is out of Boxwood not the original material basswood.

Otherwise your idea would work.

[Nirvana]

Put the plan in the scanner and had part printed.

Used double sided clear tape and attached to the boxwood sheet.

Next is the cutting and trim, and I should have another workable piece.

[Nirvana]

Having a somewhat new shaped stem again I used double sided clear tape and attached the broken piece for the final trimming.This pic shows the two separate.

Here they are taped for shaping.

[Nirvana]

The new stem piece is in place, I preferred to attach the stem before the remaining piece from the false keel.

The stem piece has little "extra meat" which is sand-able.

On the other hand I got it perfectly straight!

I even got the connection between the keel and stem tighter this time.

Edited June 18, 2014 by Nirvana

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Soon enough you'll never know it was broken.  Excellent work!

[Nirvana]

Pops, Thank you for those words.

However, I think everyone in here will remember when one has done a repair or modification, even though it may not be visible to others.

Admiral is happy and impressed.

I also got a nice and tight fit with the smaller false keel part without any modifications.

[fnkershner]

Nice job. I looks like I am finishing my repairs just about the same time as you are. The Club meeting is this Saturday and we hope to start planking then.

[Nirvana]

False decking accordingly to MikeY in Sweden, this to stabilize the bulkheads before fairing.

First plank down matching the keel length.

[Nirvana]

Wood stirring straws which are flexible enough works as a stand in for the temp deck.

The bulkheads are rigid. No flexing at all.

Sanding and planking will be next.

Pretty happy with it so far.

 

[samueljr]

Nice save!

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Looking good.  Now comes planking 

[Nirvana]

So I dry fitted the sheer plank and it follows the top of each bulkhead perfectly!

The instructions reads " This is about 1/16" below the top of the bulkheads mid ship"

Guess I have to force the dip in order to get the curve.

[Stuntflyer]

The top of the shear plank rests along the dashed line shown on the plan which is about 1/16" below the top of the bulkheads. The shear should have a natural flow into the stem. Notice the position of the dashed line relative to the stem. This will leave room for the cap rail, something I didn't do initially but corrected later. You only need to "dip" the center of the sheer lower if you want more curve.

Edited July 21, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Ryland Craze]

Per,

 

It looks like bulkheads E thru H at the bow need to be faired more. I took quite a lot of wood off of the leading edge of these bulkheads so that my planks would lay flat against the frames.  Fairing of the bulkheads produced a natural sheer line at the bow on my Longboat.

[Stuntflyer]

Ryland - That's a great observation that I missed when I first looked at the photos. On my build I was quite surprised at just how much bulkheads E thru H had to be tapered. 

[Nirvana]

Ryland, thanks for the sharp eyes,

I will fair them further.

The technique of plank bending of Chucks works great. but I didn't use the hair dryer  

[fnkershner]

I don't use a hair dryer either. I am willing to wait. there is plenty to do while it dries.

[Chuck]

Dont forget that its not just for the time...the hair dryer adds heat.  A lot of heat.  This will make it very pliable and you can get a more drastic bend or twist.   Probably another 20%.

 

Chuck

[fnkershner]

Chuck - I had not thought of that. Ok I will give it a try.