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Posted

Hello everyone! Thank you all for the likes .It is very encouraging.. A small update with the bow deck finished. The next one will be the finishing of the planking. :) :)

 

Cheers

Dimitris

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Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Hi Dimitris

 

Great job you are doing on your deck planking, it sure dose look good, well done. I also like all of the detail that you are adding to your ship, I do think a lot of detail adds so very much to ones ship.                    ENJOY.

 

Regards   Lawrence

Hello Lawrence , thank you very much for your nice comments and for visiting my build log. I agree that details are what make the ship unique. At this ship i will try to add more details than at my previous build.(It was my first attempt).

 

Take care

Dimitris :)

Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Some progress to the build. The deck and hull planking are finished. The next step is to fill some gaps on the hull with some filler , sanding and cover it up with fiber glass.

 

Cheers

Dimitris :)

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Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Hello Dimitris,

 

A very fine built model so far....

 

I`m with Elia....., why fibreglass,and resin ?

I guess scale 1:100 is too small to have her put in the water afterwards. If the actual Hull is riveted, an appropriate structured Skin for the model would be great

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Posted (edited)

Hello again! First of all i want to thank you Rich, Elia, Avsjerome2003, Lawrence , Nils, GuntherMT, Wackowolf , Edmay, Puckotred, SimonV, Brian, Captainslog, Tasmanian and Aussie048  for your likes and for visiting my build log.

 

Elia and Nils, I had in mind to use fiberglass and resin to recreate the metal hull of the ship (it's the first time I'm using this type of material) and make the construction even more solid. I have read about this technique in some blogs and forums and it was recommended in order to avoid future hairline fractures.

 

Any suggestions or comments regarding this approach?

 

Thank you in advance.

Edited by Dimitris71

Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

hello Dimitris,

 

I know what you`re talking about with those possible hailine fractures in the outside Skin. Sometimes they occur even months after the planking was done an, sealed and painted. Good experience was achieved with this "crack creep" thin-viscosic product UHU Holzfest, if you Need to secure thin cracks, and  if already there, from getting larger.

 

If you are going to simulate steel plating, you Need a smooth outer Skin of the wooden surface underground. (that plating put on afterwards can also be structured before applying)

One pic without,-     one with structure (here riveting structure)

 

happy new year

 

 

Nils

 

 

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Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Posted

hello Dimitris,

 

I know what you`re talking about with those possible hailine fractures in the outside Skin. Sometimes they occur even months after the planking was done an, sealed and painted. Good experience was achieved with this "crack creep" thin-viscosic product UHU Holzfest, if you Need to secure thin cracks, and  if already there, from getting larger.

 

If you are going to simulate steel plating, you Need a smooth outer Skin of the wooden surface underground. (that plating put on afterwards can also be structured before applying)

One pic without,-     one with structure (here riveting structure)

 

happy new year

 

 

Nils

Hello Nils, thank you very much for the advise . Also i wish you a happy new year for you and your family. I will upload a picture later with a photo of Amerigo 1:84 which is already  cover with fiberglass in order for you to see the result i am aiming for. By the way your job at Bohuslan is fantastic.

 

Cheers :)

Dimitris

Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Hello shipmates , i would like to wish you all a happy new year!! Some photos of the ship sanded ...

 

Cheers

Dimitris :)

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Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Nils, the photo that i mention earlier!! The photo was taken from a Greek model site.

 

Cheers

Dimitris

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Edited by Dimitris71

Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

amazing  fine surface Dimitris,

 

I presume you were using a very fine structured glass roving web, with probably epoxy resin, which allows to a certain degree "3D flow" without throwing wrinkels.

The Advantage of that method is the resulting fine , even surface structure and with limiting the resin amount you can avoid time consuming sanding afterwards. In this way your hull gets a wonderful tight and rigid baseground for further applications of whatever you desire....

smart and well done !

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Posted

amazing  fine surface Dimitris,

 

I presume you were using a very fine structured glass roving web, with probably epoxy resin, which allows to a certain degree "3D flow" without throwing wrinkels.

The Advantage of that method is the resulting fine , even surface structure and with limiting the resin amount you can avoid time consuming sanding afterwards. In this way your hull gets a wonderful tight and rigid baseground for further applications of whatever you desire....

smart and well done !

 

Nils

I believe that the result is rewarding , i hope mine it looks the same after it's done.

Cheers :)

Dimitris

Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Hi Dimitris and Happy New Year

 

You're build is coming on fantastically.This beautiful vessel is a foreboding build in 1/84 let alone 1/100.I agree that fibreglass is the way to go for a permanent crack free hull.Cracks can appear years after construction otherwise.

Just a couple of bits of advise from my experience using this.I always use ZAP Epoxy finishing resin and fine woven cloth meant for RC aeroplanes This resin has a 3 hour set time,that isn't 'open' work time.However this is the only product I have found that gives you a 'comfortable' amount of time to complete the job.Cutting all the pieces of cloth before you start is a must to give yourself as much time as possible.Finally,you need to apply finish to your decks,the resin will bead on the deck at the upper edges of the hull.This will need sanding off when cured,the finish on the deck will stop a darker edge appearing on the planking when finished.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Currently working on Royal Caroline

Posted (edited)

Hi Dimitris and Happy New Year

 

You're build is coming on fantastically.This beautiful vessel is a foreboding build in 1/84 let alone 1/100.I agree that fibreglass is the way to go for a permanent crack free hull.Cracks can appear years after construction otherwise.

Just a couple of bits of advise from my experience using this.I always use ZAP Epoxy finishing resin and fine woven cloth meant for RC aeroplanes This resin has a 3 hour set time,that isn't 'open' work time.However this is the only product I have found that gives you a 'comfortable' amount of time to complete the job.Cutting all the pieces of cloth before you start is a must to give yourself as much time as possible.Finally,you need to apply finish to your decks,the resin will bead on the deck at the upper edges of the hull.This will need sanding off when cured,the finish on the deck will stop a darker edge appearing on the planking when finished.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Hello Nigel, I wish you a happy new year . I want to thank you for your nice comments , for visiting my build log and also for the tips.I will purchase the cloth and the resin on Monday. I still have to check if  the zap epoxy finish resin is sold here in Athens. If not I will buy it online.Until then i will read some things about the fiberglass and resin.

 

Cheers :)

Dimitris

Edited by Dimitris71

Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Very clean and nice build Dimitris.  Looking forward to learning about how to apply that fiberglass for that finish.

 

Mark

Hello Mark, thank you for your nice comments and for visiting my build log. I hope I will  be able to help but first I have to learn myself. I intend to do some tests with the cloth and the resin before applying the cloth to the actual ship.i will post photos from the progress of the fiberglass installation.I would like to wish you a happy new year.

 

Cheers :)

Dimitris

Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Hallo Dimitris, Nils, Elia, Nigel, Mark

 

I will following the discussion on the finish of the hull with great interest, i thank you for the valuable information, i need to learn much about this ...

 

Regards

Mike

Hello Mike , thank you for visiting my build log . For now on I read some things and do some tests with fiberglass . When I'm ready to apply the fiberglass to the ship I will post photos from the whole process .

 

Regards

Dimitris

Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Hello shipmates, the starboard of the ship is covered with fiber glass and resin . I upload some photos from the procedure. First of all i left the fiberglass on the ship for one night to take the shape of the ship. Today I applied the resin over the fiberglass. In some photos the reflections are from the resin and not bubbles on the fibeglass. Requirements are : A pair of gloves , glasses and mask.

 

Cheers

Dimitris

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Edited by Dimitris71

Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Hello shipmates, the port side of the Vespucci is also applied with fiberglass and resin . Tomorrow I will sand the resin and after that I will apply another hand of resin. After that I will sand the second hand of resin and  I will apply grey car surface primer to spot if there are any imperfections.For the record I used 25 gr. of fiberglass and L&L resin ,(They say is no toxic but I used a mask anyway). The resin had 30 minutes work time. A friend of mine that builds r/c airplanes suggested this resin .

 

Cheers

Dimitris :)

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Edited by Dimitris71

Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Hello Dimitris

 

Thank you for your report on the lamination of the hull. For me it is helpful to hear from these experiences.

 

I will following to see your build grow.

 

Regards

Mike

Hello Mike , I will be  glad to help you out in anyway. This is my first time using these materials . Thanks for your likes and for visiting my build log. :)

 

Cheers

Dimitris

Current Build: Amerigo Vespucci -Mantua- 1:100 scale

 

Completed Build logs: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Gallery: Bluenose II AL 1:75 scale

 

Future Build: Royal Caroline -Panart- 1:47 scale

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Hello Dimitris,Kudos for trying this fiberglass method of hull covering,from the sample I understand why your  going this route, who was it that said "your a braver (better)man than I Gunga Din". Nice work on the decks,Well done, will follow.Edwin

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