De Zeven Provinciën 1665 by Dražen - Scale 1:45

[NMBROOK]

Excellent work Drazen!If you don't mind I shall copy you from now on with using plastic for false wales.It makes a lot of sense in that wood glue will not stick to it when planking.Is there a reason for using epoxy instead of wood glue laminating the timbers together for the beakhead?

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Edited May 8, 2014 by NMBROOK

[Drazen]

Nigel,

 

Please, use any technique you like. This is the nice thing that we help each other in order to make things easier and more beautiful .

 

Your remark on “non-sticking wood glue on plastic” is indeed a great remark. I was primary not thinking on this, but is a kind of “ad-on” which would make the using of plastic even more preferable.

 

Why I did use the epoxy to connect the beakhead timbers: The timbers do not stick/fit 100% together, but are, or could have a slight spacing in between (also historically). The wood glue shows with prolonged time tending to creep if the connection between two parts is not very narrow. There could be a certain load on this part (timbers) from the outside plank which I will lay on it, so I preferred the epoxy. Epoxy is also more transparent, so I do not see the glue in between. Some testing could prove these hypotheses, which one may try.

 

Dražen

[Drazen]

Just an additional clarification... I bent the plastic wales with the hot air gun only on the bow. The rest was easy to bend (elastically, not plastically) just by applying a slight tension  -> holding with finger -> making a hole with fine drilling machine -> and inserting the nail in the hole.

 

You can correct the “corners” (where the line is not nice) by: removing the nail out -> (slightly) correcting the shape of the partition -> drilling another hole near the old one. After correcting approx 30% of the originally set nails, I got a nice curvature.

 

Dražen

[amateur]

One question: will you be able to recreate these curvatures with the real wales?

 

Jan

[Drazen]

Jan,

 

the main issue is how to bring these wales into an exact line (actually curve) without bends and in more or less same distance along the ship length (except at the area of the stern where they slightly separate). Well, now they are OK.

After fixing the planks, the planks will, let’s say so, lead the right wales into the exact position. I will need to bend the real wales on the steam, but the final “fine tuning” job will do the planks themselves. I know, again, that this is not how the Dutch were building ships, but the final result should be – if (hopefully) nobody reads my build log and just observes the final model – without putting the model apart.

 

Dražen

[NMBROOK]

Thanks Drazen,I did not appreciate the gaps,you can't make them out in the pictures.I too use epoxy when there isn't a close fit as wood glue is weaker in this instance.I use ABS styrene available in different sections and even profiles for other aspects of modelling.This is made in the Netherlands by Raboesch and is stocked by many good model shops.This stuff bends really easy,but it maintains an even arc as it bends,so seems ideal on the face of it for this job.I will give it a go on my current build when I get to that stage.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Model Mariner]

Well done so far!

 

Klaus

[Drazen]

I have had a lot to do for my company in last weeks...

... but now, here are the new stands which will hold the ship later (when ready) too.

 

Dražen

[Spijkertje]

This is really a brilliant idea! I encountered the same problem with my current build and I'm sure  your method will give a much better result in the future.

I would like to share your invention with fellow builders on a Dutch forum and would be very grateful if I could have your permission for using your pictures as illustration.

Edited June 30, 2014 by Spijkertje

[HIPEXEC]

Nice workmanship!

[Drazen]

Spijkertje,

 

This is all here to be shared and helped other model builders to make them their job easier and have more fun when building. Please, share all my info I posted here as you like.

 

I myself am grateful to Mile Bijelić, Ab Hoving, Cor Emke, Herbert Tomaesen and the Russian colleagues Dr. Mike and Alexandr Dobrenko for all the help, materials and advices I myself got from them.

 

 

Drazen

[Spijkertje]

Drazen,

 

Thanks a lot! I've been learning step by step from your build and its been more than worth the frequent visit. Some builders are sensitive for copywrite issues and therefore I'm very grateful in sharing your wisdom.

 

In august I'll be visiting the Batavia warf again, this time behind the screens with a group of shipmodel enthousiasts including a guided tour focused on the '7 Provinces' . I'm sure you have all the expert information through the contacts you've named above, but if you have any questions you want me to ask when I'm there, please let me know. Although the build has stagnated, I can also take any 'request' foto's you would like of the current state.

 

Diederik (spijkertje)

[Drazen]

Diederik

 

Thank you for the offer. I will be grateful if you can make some good photos of the sculptures of the ship. Somebody said, this work has been more or less, done on the replica.

 

All other Photos are very helpful too. All other info you bring to be shared here in the forum can help us definitely.

 

Thank you in advance

Drazen

[Spijkertje]

You're welcome, I'll come back on this subject after August 16.  I'll take some extra time making detailed foto's of the sculptures. If any other specific requests come to mind in te meantime: please let me know.

Edited July 2, 2014 by Spijkertje

[mtaylor]

Diederik,

 

You might make this offer in the Museum Ships topic area.  Even though I'm not building (nor planning to build) her, I'd like to see your pics.   Also, post the pics there as they will get more exposure.

[Spijkertje]

Drazen and Mark,

 

I had a very nice and productive visit to the warf in Lelystad. Modelship building is becoming one of the priorities since the build of a 1:10 scale model of the 7 Provinciën is starting to take shape and the build of the replica has completely stagnated due to financial problems. The sculptures are also far from finished, but luckely I could get some nice pictures of the stern and bow.

 

Unfortunately my album was deleted while uploading quite a lot of foto's. I was given a warning by a moderator and before being able to transfer the album to the correct topic it was erased.

If you would like the pictures you may always send me a personal message with an email adres so I can send them.

 

Diederik

 

 

By the way, the Batavia warf is very much interested in modelship builders who are willing to join in the effort of completing this scale model.

The warf is willing to help in providing plans and other historical data as well as material needed for the build. In the coming months they will be needing help with large amounts of barrels, crates and things like pottery and small ironwork.

 

Plans are being made to open an email adres or forum via the official site of the 'Batavia werf' where suggestions or questions can be posted in the near future.

[amateur]

Drazen and Mark,

 

I had a very nice and productive visit to the warf in Lelystad. Modelship building is becoming one of the priorities since the build of a 1:10 scale model of the 7 Provinciën is starting to take shape and the build of the replica has completely stagnated due to financial problems. The sculptures are also far from finished, but luckely I could get some nice pictures of the stern and bow.

 

Unfortunately my album was deleted while uploading quite a lot of foto's. I was given a warning by a moderator and before being able to transfer the album to the correct topic it was erased.

If you would like the pictures you may always send me a personal message with an email adres so I can send them.

 

Diederik

 

 

By the way, the Batavia warf is very much interested in modelship builders who are willing to join in the effort of completing this scale model.

The warf is willing to help in providing plans and other historical data as well as material needed for the build. In the coming months they will be needing help with large amounts of barrels, crates and things like pottery and small ironwork.

 

Plans are being made to open an email adres or forum via the official site of the 'Batavia werf' where suggestions or questions can be posted in the near future.

 

Hi Diederik,

 

You could also upload the whole bunch to a picasa-webalbum, and put the link to that album here.

something like: https://picasaweb.google.com/101597346346552139735/ZevenProvicien?authuser=0&feat=directlink

 

Jan

[Drazen]

… just planking the stern…

 

Dražen

 

[amateur]

Looks nice.

One question: what kind of heavy beam is it you attached to the stern, just below the upper stern?

 

Jan

[Drazen]

Jan,

 

This is the lower hackebord. The size also surprised me when I was doing the templates, but the template represents just a projection (a diagonal) in order to know how far to lay planks.

 

Dražen

[Drazen]

The outer part of the gunport lids glued together with epoxy…

 

Dražen

 

[Drazen]

Just few photos of the progress…

 

Dražen

 

 

[klimi]

I would like to see this model done, it is my favorite ship and i didnt see some topic here.

Good luck with this beauty

[ChrisLinden]

Looks fantastic! Such clean work

[Schriper32]

Удивительно чистая работа!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!С удовольствием наблюдаю за постройкой

[Drazen]

… the lower part of the stern – the status at the moment.

 

Dražen

[Drazen]

… and construction around the  windows.

 

Dražen

[Drazen]

Here, I will explain the planking technique. Although probably for many a known method, maybe for some interesting to read.

I am showing it on one of the most bended/complicated plank - due to the strong curvature on the bow.

 

Step 1: Cut the plank template out of a cardboard and trim it so long till it fits nicely and follows the contour exactly. This needs a lot of trimming in small steps.

 

Dražen

[Drazen]

Step 2: Translate the contours from the cardboard to a piece of pear wood. Then, cut with a fret-saw and bend with steam till it fits the ship curvature. Trim (grind) again in (very!) small steps till it fits into the place nicely. Good grinding jigs help a lot.

 

I prepared the pear wood to be 0.5mm thicker than the final plank thickness – this, I will remove when grinding the whole ship hull in order to get a nice, smooth surface.

 

Dražen

[Drazen]

Step 3: Glue in place. This is simply to be done, but not always easy to fix solid when drying.

 

Dražen