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HMB Endeavour by Adrieke - Artesania Latina - 1768 - scale 1:60 made to look like the replica at the ANMM

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not sure what is called bit its a metal rules 25 mm long with a device that you can slide and lock and meaasures 90 degrees and 45 degrees angles


i slid the ruler out to use it


also using angle brackets to keep it inline while glueing


last i use a digital calipers i measure at the false keel then lock it in


i use this to cut the dowels to the right length and then when they are dryfitted (clamped) i go round the whole outside of the bulkhead to make sure its all


the same

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yes Pat that is exactly the one. did you peek in on my workbench :P


yup John she certainly is a step up from the virginia :)


i am going to take it slow as i stil have plenty of work on the king and i want to finish her the best i can


tonight i added 3 more bulkheads .


1 more at the front and then i wil need to think on making some balsa filler blocks for the last ones

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almost done just the front 3 parts (they are already glued together) and the back part.


i ran out of dowel . fortunately the angel brackets where just the right lenght to fit in between th eboulkheads to keep them straight and i will put some balsa blocks in between afterwards


not sure how i am going to glue that back bit on as it has nothing to glue against at the top


shot from above shows that everything looks square



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Hi Mark and David, I was simply showing a picture to confirm what Adrieke was trying to name :)  I agree, some of them are pretty bad, I tossed one and then took a small (certified) engineers square to the shop next time :).  I don't use these for squaring.  I have invested in several cheap engineer squares (Indian made) which I check against the precision one.  I have not found one of these not to true yet -  not all cheap stuff is clumsey or imprecise it seems :)


Someone has posted the following before, but I don't know if it has been caught-up yet?


A quick way to check if the square is true is to draw a baseline on your bench or a piece of paper.  Line up one edge of the square and draw a line down the other edge.  Flip the square horizontally, line up the base edge again and try to have the other edge align with the vertical line just drawn.  Draw another line down this edge and the two should be coincident if square; if it is not, then the degree of imprecision can be easily determined.  Another way is to use a hard straight edge as the baseline (make sure it does not move :))


A similar process can be used to determine if a straight edge is actually straight also.


Hope this helps?





Edited by BANYAN
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  • 1 month later...

yup it felt good to be doign somethign again on her  Pat :)


hello captain slog . i have actualy not worked much on her for the last month as all my buidling time is taken up by the kom.


and the paper model is just for those times i cant get to my workshop :)

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almost made a big mistake. i decided to glue the rest of the decks on. during drying i had a check and noticed that the deck had a bit of a dip between 2 bulkheads. further investigation showed that the deck didnt even touch agisnt the false keel there. then it dawned on me that i actualy never finished fairing the top of the bulkheads. i gently tried lifting the decks off. all came off wiht no damage. just need to clean off the glue.


i should have checked.

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Hi Adrieke and All,

I'm also building the Endeavour and have read your comments with much interest. This is my very first wooden model ship build and I should've read the part on the box that says something about modelling experience..... never mind. I have found many of the flaws that you have mentioned in your build and carried out similar actions to remedy the problems. I have learnt fairly quickly that as I progress through the photo instructions and move to the next stage, to look through the next several photo instructions to understand what the instructions mean and where confusion occurs, to research it. I purchased a wonderful copy of Ray Parkin's book "H.M. Bark Endeavour" and that has been invaluable as a reference source. I live in Melbourne (Australia) and have had the opportunity to visit the replica and take as many photos as possible when it visited. It's interesting to note the differences in the model against both the book and replica vessel. I picked up the problem of the hawser holes from another forum and resolved that by making a guide for the drill so that it angled the drill upwards by 15 degrees (back drilling from the bow to the deck) and the bottom of the holes were spot on level with the deck (if that helps). I'm up to photo 27 in the instructions and painting the stern as I don't like the 3 ply wood appreance or the metal appearance of the windows and stern decorations. Have a great day and good modelling,


Rowan D.

Edited by rowand
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Hi Adrieke, I started taking some pictures but got more involved with building than photographing the progress. I'll take a couple of happy snaps of the model when I finish the work on the stern. Have a great day,



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