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lehmann

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About lehmann

  • Birthday 07/21/1960

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Surrey, BC, Canada
  • Interests
    USS Constitution: Scratch build solid hull 1:96 scale

    Member Nautical Research Society

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  1. lehmann

    Micro Chisels

    From what I can see they are still available from several sources. These are a few that I found quite quickly. https://mdiwoodcarvers.com/t/dockyard-micro-tools https://www.treelineusa.com/micro-gouge-carving-set.html http://www.chippingaway.com/cat/hand-woodcarving-tools-accessories/dockyard-micro-carving-tools/
  2. lehmann

    Micro Chisels

    I have a set of micro-chisels made by DockYard tools that were, but no longer, sold by Lee Valley. However, I see that they are available from other suppliers. These are the smallest chisels and knives I have seen as the blanks are more of a wire than a bar or rod. Definitely, not tools for roughing. However, the steel is good in that I can get a razor edge on them. I also have a set of small chisels that Lee Valley sells (part 81D40.01 ). I thought they would be just good for scraping, but the steel is remarkably good so I got very sharp edges. The set included two fish-tails, which are difficult to find in such a small size. I've made a few small knives/chisels from broken (or sacrificed) drill bits. This is probably the cheapest source of tool steel available.
  3. lehmann

    Orientation of wood grain

    Max, The answer, somewhat, depends on the species. If there is a marked difference between the early and late wood, then I would make edge grain planks, especially if they are to be bent. My reasoning is that if cut flat grain, assuming that the grain is not exactly parallel to the plank, the bending stiffness will vary along the length of the plank, resulting in kinks and flat spots in the hull, which will be very frustrating if the frames or bulkhead are far apart. There is also more chance of the plank splitting or "blowing out" as it is bent. I believe this in one of the reasons why woods with very fine grain or, as I call it, grain-less, are best for modelling. My other argument for edge grain is there is less shrinkage in the direction 90 degrees to the grain, so there is less shrinkage in the width of edge grain planks. As a result, there is less chance the gaps between planks will open up if the hull dries out. There is an argument for rift sawn boards (see woodenboat.com - Quartersawn discussion) in that it has most of the stability of edge grain, but is less likely to split if fasteners are used. However, this should only be a consideration when working at larger scales (1:48) where the planks are wide enough and it is possible to realistically reproduce plank fastening. My last comment: as a test take two slices off your 2x4 - one for edge grain and one for flat - and see which you like for you application. You don't need to commit the whole piece yet, and you'll eventually find a use for the "other" piece, so it won't be wasted.
  4. lehmann

    Ratlines

    The medical community used to think that electro-shock and lobotomies were therapeutic. Each to their own...
  5. Generally, plane on bulkhead hulls are double planked for the reasons you give. With the bulkheads so far apart it is easy to get flat areas, especially if some planks stop at a bulkhead. The idea of double planking is to sand and fill the first layer so that it will provide a solid and fair foundation for the second layer. It also gives you an opportunity to hone you planking skills and discover potential planking difficulties for that hull, such as a need for stealers or a difficult garboard, before attempting the second layer.
  6. Here's where they ripped off the images of the real product: https://snapmaker.com/ Price is $799. I think this machine will do what it's claimed to do, but it's not rigid enough for anything beyond engraving or light duty milling of wood and plastic. Don't expect it to mill metals. The one advantage of this machine over other 3 in 1's is it appears that the printer, laser and engraver heads are easily changed. For other machines I've seen I get the impression that the change-over requires tools and a bit of re-wiring, which may deter some buyers.
  7. lehmann

    Oscillating Wonder Cutter

    This principle of this knife is the "slicing effect". The most common example is cutting a tomato - if you push the knife straight in, it won't cut, but if you add a movement to the knife 90 degrees to the direction you want to go (add a slicing action), then the cutting forces are greatly reduced. The amount that the forces are reduced depends on the speed of the slicing movement relative to the pushing speed. The faster the knife moves, the lower the forces. The effect has nothing to do with the material properties, it's just geometry in that the slicing movement reduces the sharpness angle of the knife, as seen by the material being cut. There is a limit to how much the slicing speed will reduce the forces because there is friction and for an oscillating knife, which has to stop at both ends of the stroke so the full forces are needed to push the knife forward. The quoted 40,000 rpm is probably way more than needed. If you want to try a home-made version, attach a knife to the working end of a beard trimmer, electric hair clipper or an electric engraver. I suspect one of the main design problems with the Wonder-cutter is balancing it to avoid the fingers going numb and to provide better control. I've made a bigger version using a sharpened scraper on an oscillating multi-tool (Fein, for example). I was able to slice off 1/8 inch thick pieces with a roughly 80% reduction in cutting force.
  8. Does it look like this? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Old_Northern_Rd_convict_workgang_carving.jpg. A bit of a discussion on this at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broad_arrow: scroll down to "Australia". On the page https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benchmark_(surveying) there is this comment: The terms "height" and "elevation" are often used interchangeably, but in many jurisdictions they have specific meanings; "height" commonly refers to a local or relative difference in the vertical (such as the height of a building), whereas "elevation" refers to the difference from a nominated reference surface (such as sea-level.... So, the numbers may refer to some other elevation benchmark, not sea level. As another option: At: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Survey_marker Geodetic survey markers were often set in groups. For example, in triangulation surveys, the primary point identified was called the triangulation station, or the "main station". It was often marked by a "station disk" (see upper photo at left), a brass disk with a triangle inscribed on its surface and an impressed mark that indicated the precise point over which a surveyor's plumb-bob should be dropped to assure a precise location over it. A triangulation station was often surrounded by several (usually three) reference marks (see second photo at left),[5] each of which bore an arrow that pointed back towards the main station. These reference marks made it easier for later visitors to "recover" (or re-find) the primary ("station") mark. Reference marks also made it possible to replace (or reset) a station mark that had been disturbed or destroyed.
  9. The above advice to use professional drafting compasses is the best option. Best compass I own: Made my living with it many years back and still use it. Made by Staedtler, but I don't see anything similar on their web page. A few on eBay though. The double start thread allows fast adjustments by just pulling on the arms, but the thread is fine enough for accurate setting. The ferule on the nut jams it tight, stopping any movement.
  10. These heat benders are nothing more than a standard 30 or 40 watt soldering iron with the tip cut off and a brass disk pressed on to the end. Actually, the soldering tip could be left on. Very simple to make and even simpler if the the soldering iron can hold different tips, as with the Weller models. I also have a wood burning iron that takes different screw-on tips: it wouldn't be difficult to make a large tip.
  11. lehmann

    How similar is building a model to a real boat?

    Just for interest, on a scaled basis: $0.20 fitting at 1:96 scale -> 1:1 price would be $0.20 x 96 x 96 x 96 = $177,000.
  12. I assume purchasing the CD material and plans also puts some strain on the Guild's cash flow. I was considering buying the CD from SIS, but would now buy the CD if it would help the Guild. I encourage other members (and non-members) to do so as well.
  13. Several years ago I built a sound reducing box for a compressor to be used at trade shows. I used the best rated sound absorbing rigid foam and batting I could find, but the main way sound escapes is through vents needed to feed air to the compressor (with a vacuum, the air has to get out) and other cracks. I ended up building a box with a double bottom so that the sound had to go through a bit of a zig-zag maze, somewhat like a Dorade vent. The double bottom also reduced the transmission of mechanical vibration. The maze was filled with batting, and the air inlet, made up of many small holes, faced the floor. Other than those holes, the box was sealed. Fortunately, for this application, the compressor didn't run often, so I didn't have to worry about heat from the compressor. Since a vacuum doesn't generate much heat, this shouldn't be a problem. Avoid large, flat panels, unless they are very rigid. If it vibrates, it is basically a large surface to excite the air, just like the sound board of a guitar. Use foam, especially egg-crate foam, or batting on the inside surfaces to absorb (damp) sound and avoid reflections off of hard surfaces. To some extent, a soft covering on the outside panels also helps to deaden sound. That's one of the reasons the inside of cars are carpeted or are covered with a hard foam (the other reason being to reduce injury in a crash). As a last though, I wonder if putting a long hose on the air exit of the vacuum would help to contain the noise.
  14. Grizzly tools has a small oscillating sander for hand or bench use. I was thinking of making a thickness sander with it. Seems to be well made (not a toy). Reasonable price and doesn't take up much space. Grizzly Tools;Oscillating-Spindle-Sander/T27961
  15. Have a look at http://www.joliebrisemodels.co.uk/tenth/calculator.html, I shows how the camber shape is generated. The same shape is used for all beams, with the drop to the shear line being measured from the center of the beam.

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