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About Chuck

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    Rutherford Nj

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  1. Beautiful progress. Very precise work.
  2. You are probably right!!! Its just really sad how quickly the people in any country will sell out their own hard working neighbors to save a few bucks. Very unpatriotic and for Americans that buy this crap ....they are usually the folks who wear the flag on their sleeves and in front of their houses.... Then they run out buy this garbage and support the crooks instead or frequent the sites and forums that try and legitimize them. 😈
  3. Ahh!!! Now you get it Don. Yes indeed, it is a rip off. And you are correct. It is the same as the other pirated kits just put out by any guy with a laser cutter and factory in CHINA. Keep in mind that any kit of the Black Pearl is not legit unless they are licensed to sell it by disney. And any kit sold in China will not be. So this is actually double jeopardy. Its a cheap piece of junk as well. They even say that the kit you get may not look like the photos.......You can guarantee that!!! I am sure that there will be a few builders of it at any rate because of the price. Just not here on MSW because we will always take the high road . But I am sure you will see it on that other forum you belong to very soon. LOL. They love this junk from China. 😁
  4. Probably not the internally strapped blocks. They are much later and this longboat wouldnt have used those.
  5. No its scraped off the model see below. You can see the profile. And some pictures with better lighting. I had the brightness up too high on the last ones.
  6. I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile. The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together. The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model. I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
  7. I am working on having the package available to build the hull by mid September if everything works out. Then a rigging and masting package will follow after. Chuck
  8. Same with this one...but there will be no comparison in my opinion.
  9. No ...I kind of just wing it but I am careful. I take a about a three inch long piece of sandpaper and cup it to a curve when sanding inside. I usually go in one direction only to avoid catching a corner of the sandpaper on a frame. I will sand from each end towards mid-ship...or in this case, mid-boat.
  10. bear

    Ahoy Chuck

    Just wanted to show you my progress on my Cheerful. Just over a year now since I started it with Pickels.

    Today completed the anchor buoys. It wore out Pickels,so he had to cat nap right where he finished.

    Here's what the rest of the ship looks like also.

    Thanks for a great subject and kit. Let me know what you think.


    Thanks Keith and Pickels

    bilge pumps and ropw coils 7-31-2018 002.JPG

    bilge pumps and ropw coils 7-31-2018 007.JPG

    anchor bouy 8-10-2018 001.JPG

    anchor bouy 8-10-2018 013.JPG

    anchor bouy 8-10-2018 014.JPG

    ratlines 7-6-2018 002.JPG

  11. Good to know......if you need new frames just let me know which ones.
  12. The outboard edge of the caprail was thinned down...it was easier to do this while holding the hull upside down. You want to leave 1/32" overhang with the cap rail. But that is a bit excessive but for now it is good to leave it a bit more. The top of the cap rail will be painted red. I will inevitably get paint on the outside edge which should remain bright, so once the cap rail is painted I will sand it nice and clean and make it less of an overhang. Then it was time to fair inboard which always makes a mess. The goal here is to careful fair the frames so they get gradually thinner as they work their way to the sheer. In our case, the goal is to reduce the cap rail to a minimum width of 5/32". Any wider would look way out of scale. If you can manage a bit narrower that is even better. You can see in the photos what mine looks like and its 5/32" wide. There will be one strake inboard that is 1/32" thick. So that would make the overall width 3/16". So after I install this I will sand it a bit thinner then paint. Then I will sand outboard edge again and the results should leave a cap rail that is just under 3/16" wide. Then the interior was cleaned up a bit and I applied a coat of wipe on poly. You can see the difference in the before and after photo and see how the cap rail was shaped etc....especially at the bow. I used 220 grit sand paper to fair the inside because anything coarser would grab the frames and possibly break them if they werent glued to the planking securely. Slow and steady is the way!!! 😊 Note that the inside edge of the cap rail at the bow is flush with the aft edge of the stem. This is what you are shooting for. The aft edge is sanded flush with the sides of the transom and then the shape of the transom on each side was tweaked to clean everything up. I still have some minor tweaking to do but its just about done and ready for the next step.
  13. Hi Chuck

    Its me again 😅... sorry to bother you, but it seems  I got a new problem. I try to change the title of my last thread ("Wind blow Amati Bireme...") but it doesnt let me. I can edit all other posts of that thread.



    1. Chuck


      You need to edit the first post in the topic to change the title.

    2. MESSIS


      thanks for you response Chuck... but I did that but nothing happens. So I deleted the topic and republished it again.


      thanks any way



  14. There is very little CA seepage on the Longboat. Those photos of the frame removal are of the barge. Since that area was going to be covered by a lot of interior planking it didnt need much cleaning up. The longboat however is a different story. I just sand it off. But in fairness there is very little of it as I knew that there wasnt any interior planking. So I was extremely careful. What little was found is just sanded away. It isnt very thick and doesnt stain the wood at all.
  15. I am leaning towards that as well!! It also simplifies the build a bit. I think there will be so much going on that it might be a little "kitchen sink" which I dont like. Better to keep it the simple rail and just neatly finish it and paint the top. I can always change my mind and add it later if I dont like it. That will be easy enough. Chuck

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