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About jimbyr

  • Birthday 11/09/1958

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    Model ships, restoring old machine tools, old cars

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  1. Hey guys Anyone looking for a deal, Saw, Thickness sander and Disc sander on ebay for $675.00 for all three, Don't know who it is or condition. Pictures are stock from the website https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jim-Byrnes-4in-Table-Saw-Thickness-Sander-Disk-Sander-Bundle-of-all-3-Tools/173324733334?hash=item285af58b96:g:0eIAAOSw1iNa~xgB regards Jim Byrnes Model Machines
  2. Dave Use the 3" 90 tooth .03 kerf slitting blade. As close to a mirror finish as you could get on wood regards Jim
  3. jimbyr

    Byrnes saw sled

    John It is 1/8 or .125 Jim
  4. Thunder It is also capacitor run Jim
  5. Rok I did your shipping quote and gave it to Donna the day it came in. She may have forgotten to send it to you or she may have had a problem with your email. As far as I know we didn't get any other emails from you. What is your email address. Sorry about the delay. If I remember correctly you should be sitting down when you get the shipping quote. regards Jim Model Machines
  6. jimbyr

    Hanover Bald Eagles Nest

    Art I watch this one from time to time, it's in south FL They have 2 new additions in the nest right now http://www.dickpritchettrealestate.com/eagle-feed.html Jim
  7. Janet and others I got this from the motor manufacturer this morning The factory reviewed this issue and provided the following feedback: Here is the preliminary analysis and investigation for this issue: The motor insulation class is B that has a temperature rating of 130C (266F). This motor also has a thermal protector attached on the winding which will protect for over-heating. When the temperature is over 110C (230F) on the winding, the thermal protector will trip for protection. After cooling under 100C (212), the motor can work again. Usually the housing temperature is 20 degrees less than the winding. When the housing temperature is over 65C (149F), it will feel hot to your hand. Therefore, it is not surprising that you can not touch the motor housing. The odor that the customer smelt is from the volatilization of the varnishing with the stator, NOT the paint. In another words, as long as the motor internal temperature is not over 110C (230F), the motor will work. Once it is over 110C, the thermal protector will provide protection for the motor so it would not be damaged, so the motor design is safe. after 35 minutes of constant run time the 230v motor would be about 75C or 167F, too hot to handle but will not damage the motor They also included 35 pages of all the testing they have done over the years. So, the motors will run hot, it doesn't damage the motor The "plastic can" that melted on your motor was the capacitor and that is very unusual. We have only replaced 2 or 3 over the years. Please make sure the capacitor that was replaced is marked 12uf and no higher or it may burn the motor out regards Jim
  8. Janet I am doing a thermal test on the 230v motors and have contacted the manufacturer to get the running specs. Will get back to you soon regards Jim
  9. Mit This should fit the mount http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starrett-No-463M-Micrometer-Head-0-13mm-Range-0-01mm-Graduations-/142532484230?epid=1748534897&hash=item212f991c86:g:uiYAAOSwCV5Z2ljS Jim
  10. Mit The .010 blade is going to flex no matter what you do, a 0 insert won't help. The mic head is a 3/8 mount, no threads, it's glued on with locktite regards Jim
  11. jimbyr

    Thickness sander

    Kurt We survived the storm ok, no damage to the house other than a few screens blowing off the porch. A few of my neighbors trees came down, one across the driveway which I turned into small logs by 9am with the chain saw and one on his neighbors house which was next. The power went out at 9:45 Sunday night and finally came back on Thursday evening. It was a miserable few days with the heat and humidity. We have a 5000kw generator so we were able to power our fridges, a few lights, a fan and a small window ac I took out of my model shop window. Some people still don't have any power and then there's the flooding. The machine shop fared pretty well also. The only damage was a little water blowing under the doors and of course no power until late Thursday night so the CNC's got a mini vacation. The major damage was caused by me. i needed an extra sheet of plywood to cover one of our sliding glass doors and there was none to be found at the stores so I removed a piece of the plywood floor I put over the office at the shop. Forgot that I connected all the supports for the suspended ceiling to the underside so when I slid the ply off the ceiling came down. Spent all day yesterday putting it back up. The office needed a good cleaning anyway. Jim
  12. I have to say the Chinese stuff is much better than it used to be. When I started my current shop I wanted to buy all american made machinery. Unfortunately, nobody makes their equipment here anymore. Hardinge, Bridgeport all the old standards are either out of business or making their stuff in the orient. If you want to get good quality american made full size machinery it's going to be used equipment. Sherline is made here as well as Taig which I don't think anyone has mentioned. The Taig mill looks pretty good, a little more stout and has a faster spindle speed on the standard model. 5000 rpm as compared to Sherlines 2800. Not as many accessories as the Sherline has. Milling brass and wood at 2800 rpm is going to take some time and you're going to break a few tools. 5000 is better but still not fast enough. You should be cutting wood at 8-10k on a mill if not faster. Take a look at how fast your router spins. Absolutely get the high speed pulley system if you go with Sherline and if Taig offers one also get that too if you go with a Taig. Stay away from the HSS endmills, that's high speed steel for those not in the business. Buy ONLY solid carbide endmills, 3 flute are the best, trust me on this. They will last 10 times as long, better finishes and are much harder to break. The cost is not a lot different either. HSS drill bits are fine Jim Model Machines
  13. David Please email me his contact info, like to get a set of the carving tools thanks Jim
  14. I agree with Bill on the size of the mill. If you have limited space and you don't plan on using the mill for anything else other than small scale modeling go with a Sherline. They have tons of accessories and can easily be converted to CNC at a later date if you choose. You will pay as much for a fully tooled Sherline as you will for a good used full size mill. I went a different route. About 10 years ago I found a Hardinge TM-UM horizontal tool room mill in great condition at a government auction that had been sitting in a prototype lab for decades gathering dust. I picked it up for 600 bucks with some tooling. I found a Bridgeport high speed M head on ebay for 300 bucks in so so condition, rebuilt the head with new high speed bearings and mounted it on the Hardinge. Added a 2 speed 1 horse motor and now have spindle speeds ranging from 140 rpm for cutting steel to 12000 rpm for aluminum, brass and any wood. It takes MT-2 collets which are readily available and range in size from 1/8 to 1/2" with mill collets up to 3/4" The table has 24" travel in X and 8" in Y and swivels 30 degrees in both directions. Added a Newall digital readout and a new coat of paint. It is extremely rigid and accurate. I can put a .02 endmill in it and cut slots in boxwood all day long with out breaking the tool. I can also trim a 1/2" of steel off a block with no problem if the need should arise in short time. Total investment in the mill is 2000.00 + my time and have added a lot of accessories found on ebay and other local auctions at good prices. Can't beat Hardinge accuracy. Jim Model Machines
  15. SOLD Thanks to Greg Herbert for the donation Jim

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