thibaultron
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Everything posted by thibaultron
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Dang! I wish I had $2500, though I live 100 miles from the ocean, so it might be a little hard to sail her. -
Nope, proportions are off to much, will have to redraw most of it. I love modeling, I love modeling, sigh.
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Thanks for the info. Looks like I have some redrawing to do, but I think I got it close in most proportions. For my drawings I assumed 36" for axle height, 27" for the base length, and 15 for the drum dia. Now I can get it closer using your dimensions. CAD is sometimes a pain, but a lot easier for making corrections.
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Measurements would be greatly appericated!
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PART 23 I redrew the dredge winch during my Florida trip. One off the close up pictures I was sent. Here is the old drawing from the small photo I had. The 2D drawing of the winch and sub-assemblies. I shortened the handles, like I talked about in the earlier post. They are 23" long rather than 36". I think that is more reasonable for one man. The drawing of the Clutch engagement lever (left) and the Pawl (right). This is the front and back 3D views of the redrawn winch. Now that I am home again I'll be doing more work on the model. Finishing some details on the hull, and starting painting it.
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No building has gotten done, I'm away from home, but I have been able to do a better drawing of the dredge winches. Thanks to another member, I have some pictures of one in a Chesapeake Bay museum. This was the same one I based the old drawing on, but with a small photo to work from. Here is the old drawing. An overall of the new drawing, with the better photos. The drawing itself. The next task is doing a 3D drawing, then draw it in SketchUp, a 3D modeling CAD program. The crank handles are, I think, overly long. Compared to the old picture they are about half again as long. I think they extended the handles so that the museum could bolt them to the display (see the pictures).
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I have not abandoned this build, just had many things get in the way. I have to go out of town, but will restart in Nov. I sold my Atlas lathe, and to clear a path to get it out of the back of the shop, I had to fill up the area in front of my workbench. It took 2 days about a week apart to get it out and loaded onto the buyer's truck. I bought his small 7X10 Harbor Freight (really 7X8 they exaggerate the size) metal lathe, so I will at least be able to make ship model parts. I need to do a bit of work on it, though, to bring it up to what I concider reasonable shape. It is almost new, but needs a lot of tweaking. I may also buy a second bed and extend it for making masts and spars. The extension would not be useful for metal work, but good enough for wood working.
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Which Bluenose kit? (moved by moderator)
thibaultron replied to owend's topic in Wood ship model kits
I would personally avoid Constructo at all costs. Amati I don't know about. Artesania Latina has a reputation of not packing all the parts, or packing some from other kits, and horrible instructions. I had a Billings kit and was distressed with all the plastic parts it had. Model Shipways has a good reputation. -
Perhaps, The Sea Of Galillee Boat?
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Darn. I like the Pyro kit. It and the Dutch Yacht were my favorites when I was a teen (that was just about the time the dinosaurs went extinct).
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I have plans, but they are buried at the back of my shop, I'm doing renovations. Pyro made a model called the Bomb Ketch, and here are some pictures. The pyro model is what got me interested in the Marine Models kit.
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Does anyone know if the old Marine Models kit for the bomb ketch is based on an actual ship? I think it was labeled as HMS Lion.
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I have several kits, all from respected US companies, the dowels in all of them are mostly useless.
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The painting of a 17th century ships hull
thibaultron replied to silverfoxes's topic in Nautical/Naval History
t the following site they have a converson chart for Floquil to other manfg. paints. This site says Vallejo Ivory matches the Floquil Antique White. https://www.microscale.com/Floquil%20Color%20Chart.pdf -
The painting of a 17th century ships hull
thibaultron replied to silverfoxes's topic in Nautical/Naval History
I looked up on the Web, and got the following information for the color values for Floquils Antique White: Name # Antique White Product # F110085 HTML # F1E8D6 CMYK # 5, 7, 15, 0 RGB # 241, 232, 214 This may be useful to someone. A paint store may be able to get you a swatch to use as a comparison for mixing your own. -
What did you have to trim?
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The post #14 in the thread "Furling a boom-footed forestaysail" on this forum has interesting information on how a main sail would be attached to the mast hoops, on a boat with a steeply raked mast, which the skipjacks have. The above thread has much more information on this. They have a large rake on their masts, and the foot is basically immovably attached to the boom. The sail would jam, if directly the leading edge was laced to the hoops. So they have a rope running between the lower hoops and the sail hanks. This rope was loosened when the sail is lowered, allowing the leading edge to slide back. This is a drawing of the sails of the skipjack Kathryn. Notice details A and B. And here is a picture from the top of the box of Pyro's skipjack model showing the sail being lowered. When I started on my model, I thought that they had not cast the sail correctly. I'm used to modern sailboats.
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Part 22 I guess I owe Pyro an apology. At the beginning of this build, I commented that the casting they made for the furled, or as it turns out being furled, main sail was incorrect. I think I used a stronger comment. Because I'm used to modern sailboats, I said that they had cast the angle of the leading edge, in the wrong direction, as it angled away from the mast. They had it right! After reading the thread "Furling a boom-footed forestaysail" on this forum, post #14 described how the sail is attached to the hoops. The foot of the mainsail is laced to the boom in such a fashion that it cannot side forward as the sail is lowered. With the steep rake of the mast, the leading edge would jam as the sail was lowered. I have not worked up the geometry for this, I'll take their word for it. To solve this problem, the lower part of the sail is not directly laced to the mast hoops. Instead there is a rope that runs between the sail hanks and the hoops. I'm not explaining this well but the drawing that will follow should clear it up. As the sail is lowered this rope is loosened and the leading edge can pull away from the hoops, letting it slide back. Detail A shows how the lower part of the sail is attached to the hoops by a rope running between them and the hoops. Detail B shows the upper hoops laced directly to the sail. So Pyro’s casting with the lower part of the sail pulled away from the mast, as it is being lowered, is correct. The jib has only a partial boom, so this is not a problem. It is hanked directly to the stay. Learn something new every day.
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AUTOCAD 18 DELUXE
thibaultron replied to yamsterman's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
I can't help you with AutoCAD, but I did do a step by step for CADing a simple boat for the builder in the below build: America Schooner POF by Walter BilesThe procces used may help you. -
I used a type similar to the one in your link, almost constantly. It is one of the older round florescent bulb types. The only problems I have with it are that it tends to sway back and forth when first positioned, or when I hit it with my hand or a tool. This is a frequent occurance, and a pain. On the other hand my over the eyes types have a much closer focal distance, so that I have to either be holding the parts close to my eyes, or be bent over it. The desk mounted lighted one allows me to do most of the modeling in a comfortable position. My eyes require magnification for any small work, and the shakiness of my hands makes holding parts some times challenging.
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Frank; The width and depth of the base would be helpful too. As you know, I'm going to building ones for my Carrie Price, and I need to build two other sets in 1/32, and 1/28.
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Thank you for the additional info on the placement of the winders in the sunk well boats. I'll place mine there when I get to that kit.
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I saw that, but figured that the men were probably 2" to 4" shorter back then.
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I think the winders on these sunk wells were a little shorter, see the Fisheries drawing I posted earlier. The crank handle would be much closer to the deck than the one I drew and you provided the pictures for. If you look the dredge itself is narrower. I have the Midwest skipjack kit. In reading Chappelle's Small Boat book, I found drawings of the skipjack "Messenger" that almost exactly match the Midwest kit. So close that it is a matter of less than inches. I think Midwest based their kit on these plans. This skipjack was one of the type used for "Oyster Pirating", dredging the oyster tonging beds at night, illegally. This boat has the sunken well, and a narrow roller for the dredge, like in the drawing. Below is the drawing with the two plans overlaid. The black is the Messenger, the red the Midwest skipjack.
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