thibaultron

Here's some pics of the figurehead from the kit. For it's size it isn't awful but I would like to try something a bit more detailed looking. Additionally I have Chuck's very nicely done figurehead with Sculpey off the practicum and the replica in Delaware. This is figurehead just doesn't strike me as being accurate honestly I would imagine something a bit more... graceful? Ok fine I hate it lol. And last is a recently posted pic of the model from the Hahn diorama.

Thank you for stopping by. Well I got some more done on my Albatross. I was able to get 2 planks on both side of the 1942 Albatross. While waiting on glue to dry, I worked on making the 40+ side frames for the 1899 Albatross.
 

Gluing the second plank.
 

4 planks done.
 

Making the jig to produce the side frames.
 

The first step was to cut the 3/16" wide strips down to 5/32". Then cut a 3/32" notch on one end. The notch will go over the chin log. This will represent a 2-1/2"x5" frame.
 

40 Side Frames.
 
I still need to add 3 rows of planks onto the 1942 Albatross. I hope to complete that by next weekend. I also need to make the side frames for the 1942 Albatross.
 
Catch Yall Later,

Thinking of my next project and how to make things simpler with rigging, I decided to make a small and simple serving machine after Chuck`s and Domanoff`s ideas.
 
Also I wanted to try a motorized version of the unit, and because I had already necessary gears & a small gearmotor available, it was a simple and cheap project. To have the machine easy controllable I used a Chinese motor controller, which indeed controls the speed from zero to max speed maintaining good torque also with minimum speed: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-DC36V-10A-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-HHO-RC-Controller-12V-24V-/321976981771?hash=item4af752d90b:g:bbAAAOSwKtlWmLik
 
And to have both hands free when using the machine, I also utilized a foot swith to start and stop the unit:
 

 
 
All wooden parts were made of 5 mm aircraft quality plywood. Gears are module 1, 40 teeth ones, with driving gear at the motor shaft having 11 teeth. Motor is some old toy motor with 12 V supply and 330 RPM output speed. All axles are 6 mm brass rod, with 6/10 mm ball bearings.
 

 

 

 
 
To be able to make some seizings also with the machine, I added a small clamp where a loop or block to be handled, can be attached. It is easy to install to the rotary axle with only 2 screws when necessary:
 

 

 
And if it proves to be better to operate the machine only manually, the motor can be completely dismantled or only the driving gear taken away, because it is only attached with two small screws on the motor driving axle.
 
I really hope that this little machine makes my life a bit easier when the time comes to start rigging with all the numerous servings, seizings etc.

I contacted Shapeways, and found out the trouble with the dredge frame designs. Their page shows limits of .3mm for walls supported on both ends, and .6mm for those that are hanging in mid air at one end.
 
This applies to square/rectangular shapes only! For round cross sectional parts the limits are .6mm and .8mm respectively.
 
I can redo the 1/32nd part, with work, by increasing the smaller 5/8" scale frame parts to about .8", not bad. I just wish I had known this when I started!
 
For the 1/64th parts, I will have to get creative. I think that if I design the parts to lay flat in sections, with the bottom square, I can do it. I will then have to scrape the flat parts of the sections round, like if I was scraping wooden parts to a shape for molding, or other formed surfaces.

Ordered a set of mast clamps I designed, to be 3D printed. I’ll use these to taper/round the mast and boom for the Carrie Price. They hold the stock at a 45 degree angle, so that I can remove the corners, to bring the square stock to octagonal. For this model, I will round the parts from there, and skip the 16 sided step.
 

 

 
The company  sent me an e-mail, that the file passed, and that they are printing them.
 
As you can see, I will have to trim the bottom corner of the inserts to allow me to hold the 1/8 inch square stock (see below the insert holding the stock). The other insert is, of course, used to hold the other side of the stock.
 
I also ordered a small wood vise to use to hold the inserts and stock.
 

Chris,
Yes, $2500 is a low price for a nice boat. However, I believe the price is low because the Skipjack, Blue Crab, is a wooden boat. The Upkeep for wooden boats is rather high. The skipjack hulls are very shallow, so the headroom in the cabin is probably only about 4-1/2 feet. This would not be the most comfortable boat to cruise the bay in.
 
Skipjacks also require an experienced captain.The Deadrise type of hull (almost flat), has some sailing issues. You can see the flat/v-shape hull in several of the small sailboats such as the sunfish.The skipjacks are fairly good sailors, they just have one drawback, like the sunfish when they get to much wind they will capsize. Unlike the sunfish, you can't stand on the centerboard and right it. Sailing a skipjack is not for a novice. Matter of fact, I understand that the standard procedure on the skipjacks was to reef the sails before furling them for the night. That way if there was to much wind in the morning they did not have to worry.
http://www.stardem.com/news/local_news/article_50ab1065-1924-5ec1-86ce-32fb0616d30b.html

Good Morning All,
Thank you for stopping by. Well, I have finished the side planks on the 1899 Albatross.She is ready for the bottom planks. I am working on the 1942 Albatross this weekend. Last night I soaked the chin logs and nailed them to the forms to get the correct shape. I will get them glued into place today and start on the the side planks.

Gluing the first plank onto the 1899 Albatross. I added 3 of the side frames on each side to help hold the planks straight. They are not substantial. Their actual dimensions were some where about 2-1/2" x 5" The rest of the side frames will be added later.
 

The completed side planking on the 1899 Albatross.
 

Bow Details.
 

Stern Details.
 

The Chin logs and side planks sanded down and ready for the bottom planks.

Ordered a set of mast clamps I designed, to be 3D printed. I’ll use these to taper/round the mast and boom for the Carrie Price. They hold the stock at a 45 degree angle, so that I can remove the corners, to bring the square stock to octagonal. For this model, I will round the parts from there, and skip the 16 sided step.
 

 

 
The company  sent me an e-mail, that the file passed, and that they are printing them.
 
As you can see, I will have to trim the bottom corner of the inserts to allow me to hold the 1/8 inch square stock (see below the insert holding the stock). The other insert is, of course, used to hold the other side of the stock.
 
I also ordered a small wood vise to use to hold the inserts and stock.
 

Ordered a set of mast clamps I designed, to be 3D printed. I’ll use these to taper/round the mast and boom for the Carrie Price. They hold the stock at a 45 degree angle, so that I can remove the corners, to bring the square stock to octagonal. For this model, I will round the parts from there, and skip the 16 sided step.
 

 

 
The company  sent me an e-mail, that the file passed, and that they are printing them.
 
As you can see, I will have to trim the bottom corner of the inserts to allow me to hold the 1/8 inch square stock (see below the insert holding the stock). The other insert is, of course, used to hold the other side of the stock.
 
I also ordered a small wood vise to use to hold the inserts and stock.
 

I  have an old (at least 50 years) Craftsman saw.  In those days the motor pulled the bottom of the blade down and a spring pulled it back up.  But as Mark said the arms on yours, although keeping the blade tight, cause the blade to move back and forth.   You might want to replace the motor with a DC motor so you can adjust the speed, with a rheostat, and also give your foot a rest.
 
Bob

Michael,
 
That motion does seem common from what I've seen.  And yes, arm geometry is the culprit.
 
I did have one (a Delta) that suddenly started wobbling the blade left and right, but that turned out to be the plastic bearings (plastic? really?)  wearing out rather quickly.  

I have an old (brand new ) 2 speed 16" Delta Scroll saw model 40-560 That i purchased 20 years ago. I have used the saw as manufactured perhaps 3 times and even on the low speed thought it was rather challenging to get a smooth cutting action. so I mostly used the jewelers saw because of the much smoother control. What I am looking to accomplish is to use jewelers blades in a scroll saw in order to be able to cut both wood and metal with a little more precision than I can presently achieve by hand.
 
My question relates to the action of the blade which seems to not move up and down in a vertical mode is this a common condition of scroll saws? I only discovered how much this moves off vertical when deciding to make this tool work without power so that I could slow it down more, and work with both hands on the work.
 
I took off the motor and all the electrical parts and jury rigged it up on a metal frame I had kicking around, I used a rope
 

 
to a foot lever to pull the saw blade down
 
 
 
and a tension spring to pull it back up, the geometry of the arms is the issue.
 

 
even with the rather disconcerting motion of the blade essentially in a back and forward motion as the blade goes up and down the ultra control with my foot pedal made cutting some very small parts manageable and far easier to control than when under power.
 

 
Michael

Hi everyone. I know it has been awhile since I posted an update. I have made some progress. I have added 2 permanent strongbacks. One ate the bow and the second at the stern. I have added a temporary strongback at the midship.  I am attaching the chin log to the keel and transom.

The Transom  and other parts laid out.
 

Attaching the transom.
 

The transom and the rudder case.
 

The Keel with the transom.
 


The blocks of wood for the bow.
 

The stern strongback. The strongback also supports the rudder case.
 

 

Gluing the chin logs to the transom and the stern strongback.
 

The chin log glued to the transom and nailed and glued  to the strongback. Earlier I had soaked the chin logs in water and nailed them to the forms.
 
Thanks for stopping by. Until next time
 
Catch Yall Later

Part 28
 
I finally finished the drawings for the dredge frames in 1/32 and 1/64th! I just sent a sample off for printing. I assume I’ll have to make some changes once the sample comes back. The 1/64th model is pushing the 3D printing to the limits of Shapeways standards.
 

 
The smaller 1/64th model, had to have some changes, over what I did for the 1/32nd one. The horizontal cross braces were too thin for printing (not sufficiently supported), so I printed the two horizontal bars, too be used as stock for adding them, when I build the frames. I’ll have to fabricate the bottom brace from wire, It was far too thin to print, without being far too large proportionally.
 
I still have a couple details to add to the 1/64th model, but will wait to see how what I have now turns out. I also added a support/sprue at the nose. The two bars run between the outer skid, and the first dredge tooth on that side. I may have to add a support for the nose of the 1/32nd part. It may help with the printed shape of the part (orientation of the bar to print path). They may lay the part down with the nose on the table for printing, without the support.
 
I ordered the prints today, and should get them back mid April.
 
I’m drawing some detail parts to use for cleats, etc., to see if they can be printed. My hands are a lot shakier now, than they were 40 years ago, so making really small parts is difficult, some times.
 
Now that my shop is somewhat back in order (well at least I can get to the work bench), I can soon start back on the model.

I tried various suggestions and still could not get a "clean" disc. Probably a skills issue.
So I ended up purchasing one from UMM.

 
This worked well right out of the box.  The disc is the largest size using .016" thick brass sheet. I am wondering how thick I can go.  I hesitate to experiment our of concern for damaging the die.  There is a maximum thickness that the slot would allow but that probably does not mean it is a good idea.
 
 
Richard

1- you need  a base of soft metal to punch the hole
2 a punch at good diameter
a hammer

When I was making the blocks for my Clara May project I needed also small 1,4 mm diameter discs. I couldn`t find anywhere suitable ones, so I decided to make my own punch. And this is how I made it:
 
I took suitable drill bit, in this case a 1,4 mm diameter. Drilled with it a hole into 6 mm thick iron stock. Then reversed the drill bit in the chuck of my milling machine so that the shank of the drill bit points down. The iron stock with 1,4 mm hole is tightened into the vice attached on the milling machine table, which is adjusted so that the drill bit can be lowered into the hole in stock. And voila, you have a 1,4 mm diameter punch and die set. And of course, when punching the discs/holes the milling machine chuck is NOT rotating, you just push the punch through the material you work with using the hand lever of the machine.
 
With this kind of punch it is possible to make holes/discs in thin sheets of soft metals like aluminum or brass, plastics, plywood, etc, and it has completely solved my problem. I hope you find it useful too if decide to follow this method.
 
 
1,4 diameter drill bit in the milling machine chuck with shank downwards. A piece of 6 mm iron stock with 1,4 mm hole drilled in it, attached into the vice and adjusted precisely below the drill bit:
 

 
Closeup of the punch:
 

I contacted Shapeways, and found out the trouble with the dredge frame designs. Their page shows limits of .3mm for walls supported on both ends, and .6mm for those that are hanging in mid air at one end.
 
This applies to square/rectangular shapes only! For round cross sectional parts the limits are .6mm and .8mm respectively.
 
I can redo the 1/32nd part, with work, by increasing the smaller 5/8" scale frame parts to about .8", not bad. I just wish I had known this when I started!
 
For the 1/64th parts, I will have to get creative. I think that if I design the parts to lay flat in sections, with the bottom square, I can do it. I will then have to scrape the flat parts of the sections round, like if I was scraping wooden parts to a shape for molding, or other formed surfaces.

I contacted Shapeways, and found out the trouble with the dredge frame designs. Their page shows limits of .3mm for walls supported on both ends, and .6mm for those that are hanging in mid air at one end.
 
This applies to square/rectangular shapes only! For round cross sectional parts the limits are .6mm and .8mm respectively.
 
I can redo the 1/32nd part, with work, by increasing the smaller 5/8" scale frame parts to about .8", not bad. I just wish I had known this when I started!
 
For the 1/64th parts, I will have to get creative. I think that if I design the parts to lay flat in sections, with the bottom square, I can do it. I will then have to scrape the flat parts of the sections round, like if I was scraping wooden parts to a shape for molding, or other formed surfaces.

Jaager, thanks for the detailed explanation!
 
No, I used a pure oil.
 
Understood the idea, will wait more, if it will fail to dry - will follow your instructions on removal and re-application.
Oil might not be not ideal for the working surface, but I really do not want to have a glossy look of the typical varnishes, that create a transparent layer on top of the wood. Probably will end up sanding and re-finishing the table top once or twice a year, it is fine.

Did you use a 50% solution as a first coat?  The most common method that I am familiar with is the seal the wood with 1:1 Tung oil: Mineral Spirit and when this is dry, wipe on light layers of straight Tung oil and let them dry between coats.  Ambient temp would affect the time interval.
The primer coat can also be 50% shellac -  the actual concentration would depend on your shellac source.  Orange shellac is (I think) 20 lb cut, but comes already in solution  - that means 20 lb to a gallon of alcohol - my rough  round up conversion is 20% solution.
I use Super Blonde flakes.  The refining removes impurities which affects the solubility - the max concentration I can get of this is 10% and therefore the primer coat is a 5% solution.  There are very low cost electronic balances now - so it is easy to weigh 5 g and add this to 100 ml 2-propanol (100%) - too much water in the rubbing alcohol concentrations (50/70/91 %) .  
 
You could start try removing some of the Tung oil with straight Mineral Spirits or turpentine and start over, but waiting a few weeks for the O2 to penetrate your too thick layer  and work its polymerizing magic is easier.  
 
I am thinking that pure Tung oil is not an ideal finish for a working surface.  A carving, a ship model, a wall surface - are great, but a surface subject to wear is likely not going to react like you would like. 
 
Here is a quote from Garrett Wade about Sutherland Welles pre-polymerized Tung oil products -  unfortunately this source is US only
 
"Tung oil is recognized as the finest oil finish available. However, most so-called Tung oil finishes on the market have been adulterated with varnishes, lower cost soy oils, and/or urethane additives. This makes the finish somewhat cheaper and easier to use, but sacrifices the special qualities of Tung oil. Pure Tung oil provides a tough, hard surface that is absolutely waterproof, and impervious to dust, alcohol, acetone, and fruit and vegetable acids. It does not darken with age as linseed oil does.

Sutherland Welles uses polymerization from a cooking process to give its Tung Oil a faster drying time and a harder, higher gloss surface. Increasing the percentage of polymerized oil in the formulation of the finish restricts penetration but increases luster, durability and hardness."
 
The highest polymerized product - 50% -  is suggested for table surfaces -  The cost is significantly greater than pure Tung oil so reading between the lines -  it would not be sold unless its characteristics were not needed.

Mike:
I don't use liquid frisket.  The frisket I use is a film with a tacky stickum on the one side.  It canbe used for painting flames, etc on cars, helmets, etc.  Also useful for models.
 
The 3M and Tamiya tapes need to go ver smooth surfaces.  Wood must be sanded smooth before being painted.  If it's smooth enough for the paint then the tape will stick and seal.  Maybe the better way to think about it would be that if the tape sticks and seals the wood is smooth enough to paint.  Choice of woods is critical.  Too open a grain and you can never seal it well enough with the tape.
 
Kurt

Kurt - thanks man, you're bringing up a lot of good tips. I'm learning.
 
Do you ever you frisket on wood?  I had a post about that and did some experimenting. I had a tough time getting the frisket off the wood. The stuff I have took almost a day to dry. My impatience doesn't like to have to wait that long.

Kurt,
 
So what you are saying is either of the two tapes you mentioned work well as long as you press with enough pressure along the edge to get a decent seal. That along with painting the darker color over the lighter one will get a good result.
 
Bob

The Tamiya tape is also very good.  I use both the 3M Fine Line and the Tamiya.  Both are very excellent and resist any seepage under their edges when burnished down onto the surface.
 
Here is something I did earlier today.  Fine line tape masked off the waterline (bare eggshell) and then some frisket was placed on the fine line tape to mask off the rest of the egg.  Painted the red first, removed the frisket and put it back onto the fine line tape to cover over the red - not having moved the fine line tape, sprayed the blue and then removed the frisket and then the fine line tape.  Total time from first starting to mask until done was less than 20 minutes till I took the photo.  Acrylics dry quickly.
 
I keeping with the nautical theme here, the red is Badger Modelflex Anti-Fouling Red Oxide (16-401) and the blue is their Tug Medium Blue (16-434).  The white waterline is the Chicken's natural Eggshell White.
 
Kurt