thibaultron

Great job on the skylights. I've never used that Krystal clear before but it sounds like it's magic. Top work.

Thanks everyone for the likes...Denis I suspect it is the same, different manufacturer, different name, but the same...I've used it on clear parts as well, for those unfamiliar...it's fairly easy to use, dip a toothpick in the bottle and run it around the opening you want to "glaze" and let it dry, Pics show the results


Complete and dry

Still a little touch up needed on these guys...two more skylights to make then its on the the fidley grates, unless I jump to finishing the main hull, depends on how the meat hooks feel after all this little stuff
Thanks for looking in,
J

I am Hal Bosche of Islip, N.Y., just getting back into ship modelling and research after a 20 + year break.  My interest was and is the early Federal Navy,  Its start to about 1820.  I'm still learning how to use this great site, with great models and members. I have a lot of catching up to do.  I want to say hello to U.S.S.Folic, Steve, its been a long time, I'm glad to see you are active in all this.  Started the U.S.F.Philadelpia,
to see if I remember how I did things.  One question :5 or 6 Stern windows?  I built 5 windows because Fox design, but found wood cut "USS Philadelphia off Tetuan, Morocco" that shows 6.  Any opinions ?  Just found out U.S.F.John Adams had 6,will have to go back and correct that.

 
Ships in Service:
U.S.F. John Adams
U.S.S Hornet, Brig
U.S.S.Wasp 1807
U.S.S.Argus
U.S.S.Nautilus
U.S.S. Vixen
U.S.S. Enterpize,Schooner
U.S.S. Oneida
  
 
Ships in Ordinary:
U.S.F. New York,  Needs a rebuid like the 1854 Constellation
U.S.S Peacock 1813
U.S.S. Erie 1813
U.S.S. Syren
U.S.F. President,1803,Based on Corne' paintings,  I have to change some thing on the head after seeing the wonderful "zoom in" on this site
H.M.S. Cyrane, Need to measure,Not sure if I built the "right" one, I think I did, Bill Dune helped with this and the John Adams
 
 
 Future Builds Planning:
U.S.F. Congress 1800
U.S.F.Boston
U.S.F. Chesapeake
 
Thank All, sorry for rattling on 

Here are a couple links to other builds, one the DR1 and the others of other Model Airways kits.
 
http://www.lazuli.com/n_projects/n_dons_projects/n_fokker/index.html#
 
http://www.modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?16206
 
http://www.ipmsgreatplains.org/camel.aspx
 
I liked the way the DR1 biuld added some color to the model, but not too much.
 
I have the Sopwith Camel, DR1, Newport, and Wright Flyer kits.

Nice work! Looks like a fine delicate spider web.

thx Mark. well, never say never. Blender is free, and there are a lot of good tutorials on-line. when you have nothing better to do give it a go, you might be surprised... :-)
 
hawse piece and forward kant frames done. I still have to drill holes (err... whatever they're called :-D), but I'll leave it for later because I'm not sure how well aligned they are on plans... I can do that later when I start detailing...
 

 
 
trying to take a shot from eye-height, more or less. I can only imagine how it would be to stand beside real frame this big...
 

Hi Herask;
 
thank you for posting this.  It is another example of something I will never be able to do!
 
I am okay with 2D CAD,  but all this 3D stuff is beyond my experience.  You seem to have made a good start.  I will watch with interest.
 
All the best,
 
Mark P

ok, aft kant frames done! as you can see from images, half-breadth framing plan isn't really aligned with profile plan. I've cut straight lines looking from top, which doesn't look good when viewed on profile plan. that's how I figured I'll need to do the drafting back then. I just hope I did it right. quick cross-checking the deck plans with finished hull shell showed that I managed to get it pretty close. I hope it'll all be well once I get to building the decks…
 

 
 
and, this is the point where I am at right now. next I'll do hawse piece and fore cant frames. I hope you'll find this build interesting as well as the other ones. I know this isn't the real deal, and I guess many of you have already noticed tons of errors. since this is my learning build feel free to point each and every one of them should you wish so. the more I learn now the better the next one will be. thanks and stay tuned for more...

after I finished drafting plans I just connected all of the new station lines to get the outer hull shell.
 
I couldn't find any info on the exact thickness and tapering of the frames toward the top, but I did read through some data about dimensions of 24-gun ship. the data there also wasn't exact so in the end I settled with 11", 10" and 9" thickness at futtocks going from keel upwards. pretty unprecise, I know, but again, this is 3D build where I can more easily adjust dimensions than with real wood. I just hope the margin of error won't accumulate that much later on.
 
the shell is done, it looks OK placed on the keel. I guess I can start cutting the frames.
 

I'll use ppddry's method he used for his solidworks build, I'll make hull shell from which I'll cut frames. if I had framing plan with all frames drafted I would have done it that way but this method will have to work for now…
 
tracing the scanned plans:


 
 
finished drafting:

I begun with the keel assembly by tracing plan and making individual pieces. that was straightforward enough. although I see now I'll have to make some adjustments to the wood that holds that vertical pieces that hold transom (yeah, there'll be a lot of such wording until I pick up all of the naming, LOL) and cut wood above the rabbet for the frames.
 
it is at this point I became aware I'll need to do some drafting to be able to create frames, as framing plans weren't aligned good enough and guesswork is something I would like to avoid, otherwise everything else won't fit inside the hull. I've read through drafting instructions manual found in article database and was again blown away by amount of work that goes into model ship building. (really, kudos to all of you for your patience and persistence!!) since I don't own CAD software I figured why not doing it right in Blender. at least I won't have to worry about aligning body, half breadth and profile plans on a 2d plane like in AutoCAD. in Blender it'll be done in 3D right away.
 

That's very interesting.  In the Anatomy of the Ship Pandora book it mention she lost her sweeps in a storm.  I couldn't imagine them deploying sweeps in a storm so that would suggest they were stowed in a place that made made them prone to being lost in a storm.

I asked a similar question a while ago and got a reply here. It seems that some at least were lashed to the side of the ship.

Thanks!  A lot of interesting information guys.  Some stuff I didn't think about.  I have the Blandford book but no information regarding sweep stowage.
I prefer to look at things from a practical point of view.  To combine ya'll ideas they could have used the yard arm tackles (or even the stud sail lifts????) to lift the sweeps in the middle and use guidelines threaded through the sweep port to guide the sweep in.  I don't think they would let them fall in the water and pulled up to the sweep port.  The Blandford or ships like her had sort of a spar deck, but since the extra spars and boats were stowed there I can only imagine a few sweeps being stowed there?  Were they stowed on the quarter deck aft of the helm?  There seems to be quite a bit of room up there.  Interesting enough I haven't found a 6th rate frigate with sweep ports that had a light box on the quarterdeck.  Even the Pandora didn't have a lightbox.  Or were they secured to the shrouds horizontally like the fish davit?  Or even secured to the chain plates of the channels?
I actually only know of one model that shows the sweeps being deployed but none that show where they were stowed, which is kind of ironic since quite a few 6th rate frigates in the 18th century had sweep ports.
Edit: It seems the Trincomalee has sweep ports with a lightbox on the quarterdeck.

Sorry to sound so negative on that homebuilt milling machine. We have a pulp mill here in town and there are various suppliers of parts for such machines , but I'm afraid none of them were very helpful. I was thinking this might be a job that Gaetan or Michael Mott could undertake with success. The idea of building it had me excited for awhile.  You types with experience in machining might have a field day with this project and may even know how to use them when finished ;).
    I do have a the Dremel drill press accessory that allows one to turn the Dremel at different angles and that has been quite helpful. I also have a Harbor freight 3x12 lathe that I have used in a limited way. I actually had better success with my wood lathe for projects than anything.
   Kinda on a different subject, I have a small Ryobi 4V screwdriver I love for drilling styrene.. It has lots of torque,is two speed, and doesn't turn so fast as to melt the plastic I'm working with.I use a three jaw chuck with it to hold fine bits.
   Another handy tool is the Harbor freight hole punch set which is great for making discs in various sizes.
   So I hope I haven't given anyone the impression that this project is worthless.

that stuff sounds a lot like the Testor's window maker I use.   I love the stuff........it even will cement clear parts in place.   awesome!

Thanks Mark!  Glad you're enjoying it.

No words, Frank.  Whatever say would just be repeat of everyone else.  This is beautiful.

In model railroading we have a saying. "There is a prototype for everything!" We also have a saying, "Never put a window in a chimney!" A couple weeks ago I posted this picture, on my Railroad Forum:
 

When I was a teenager, I passed this house everyday going to school, and just looked it back up on GOOGLE Maps. Having said that, you also have to consider your viewer. Sometimes making a model realistic, can also make it look odd, or unfinished. In the end, however, it is up to you, what you want in your model.

In model railroading we have a saying. "There is a prototype for everything!" We also have a saying, "Never put a window in a chimney!" A couple weeks ago I posted this picture, on my Railroad Forum:
 

When I was a teenager, I passed this house everyday going to school, and just looked it back up on GOOGLE Maps. Having said that, you also have to consider your viewer. Sometimes making a model realistic, can also make it look odd, or unfinished. In the end, however, it is up to you, what you want in your model.

Nice work! Looks like a fine delicate spider web.

It will likely be Mon. before I can start. Have to work the next 3 days.

In model railroading we have a saying. "There is a prototype for everything!" We also have a saying, "Never put a window in a chimney!" A couple weeks ago I posted this picture, on my Railroad Forum:
 

When I was a teenager, I passed this house everyday going to school, and just looked it back up on GOOGLE Maps. Having said that, you also have to consider your viewer. Sometimes making a model realistic, can also make it look odd, or unfinished. In the end, however, it is up to you, what you want in your model.

In model railroading we have a saying. "There is a prototype for everything!" We also have a saying, "Never put a window in a chimney!" A couple weeks ago I posted this picture, on my Railroad Forum:
 

When I was a teenager, I passed this house everyday going to school, and just looked it back up on GOOGLE Maps. Having said that, you also have to consider your viewer. Sometimes making a model realistic, can also make it look odd, or unfinished. In the end, however, it is up to you, what you want in your model.