Jump to content
MSW Spring Donation Drive

TBlack

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,117

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by TBlack

  1. TBlack
    Dave, It was, in fact, Alex's build log where I saw the technique first. And Mark has included a link to Colin's post in the "wooden tips and tricks" section. Both gentlemen use the same technique and are obviously quite adept at using a dremel in tight spaces. And that's the key; that and making sure the slot in the razor blade is the exact width of the scraped plank. The scraping part is actually duck soup. Dave and Mark, thanks for the "heads up". Tom
  2. TBlack
    Popeye, I think somebody pointed this out in the previous log, but the picture of the trap with the lobsters in it shows the lobsters already cooked....Maine's version of fast food? TB
  3. TBlack
    I'm just envious of your talent, thanks. TB
  4. TBlack
    I did my best, but I'm not yet able to figure out how to get a more intricate shape to the molding than a basic double bead. The photo of the blade shows a cut that is 3/32" wide and the result is along the cabin top in the other photo.
  5. TBlack
    Steve, Thanks for that explanation. Your foredeck is mahogany, so does that mean that you will use a filler up there? TB
  6. TBlack
    Steve, Nice work on this which prompts two questions. The cord caulking turned out great, but I didn't quite understand why the limewood approach didn't work for you. Some years ago I was faced with the same issue and used the limewood approach and I don't recall that I had any problems (see photo). The other question that I had is how do you get such a beautiful glass-like finish to the wood? Tom
  7. TBlack
    So now on to the 01 level. The subdeck is the same as the main deck, 1/32" plywood under 1/32" sycamore strips. As on the main deck, there's not a lot of decking to do given that the pilot house and salon and stack take up most of the area.. My biggest challenge here was to insure that the stanchions for the railing would all be vertical and in line. It took me a while to figure it out, and what I did was to make the deck off the boat; fashion the railing around the deck (last photo below); turn the whole assembly over and drill through the deck at the stanchion locations, making a mark at the underside of the railing. That process insures that the stanchions will all be lined up properly. I then attached the deck to the model and did a test of the railing at the forward end (first two photo below).
  8. TBlack
    I built the rest of the bulkhead in 3 pieces: 2 long ones to go down either side and one curved one at the stern. If you look back at the previous pictures you can see a stanchion that is thicker than the others. That's where the joints occurred. At first I thought I could do the long sections off the boat, paint and install. That didn't work out so well due to the sheer curve that the bulkhead planks had to follow. I ended up doing the curved section off the boat and the long sections constructed in place and painted. The bitt at the bow is a bit of a guess. The only picture I had showed just the top of it peeking over the bulkhead. The pictures below show the cap rail in place. I made it up out of cherry.
  9. TBlack
    Mark & others, Thanks for your suggestions, but the information was on this site. Forgive me, but I'm a tight-fisted yankee and reluctant to pay good money to someone who may or may not have a productive suggestion for me. I used to be able to get all the information and help I needed right here for free because the membership here is very generous and entirely knowledgeable. I'm hoping that the membership will come together and rebuild this wonderful site. TB
  10. TBlack
    About a month ago, in a build log, one of us displayed some rather intricate molding detail on his model. Another one of us questioned how he was able to create such detail and, in response, the modeller produced a short vidio clip of his scraping technique. Does anyone remember who it was that created those moldings, or how to contact him? Tom
  11. TBlack
    At the bow, the bulkheads were built off the boat because I didn't see how I could easily paint the inboard side once installed. Also, you'll see in the photos a hawse hole...plastic! Works great. Two separate ovals, filed to shape and glued to either side of the opening in the bulwark. The two cleats are wooden, probably not historically correct, but I enjoy turning out small wooden items, so there they are!
  12. TBlack
    Main deck cabins having been constructed and installed, next comes the bulwark. Prelimary photo: I don't exactly remember how I decided what the spacing of those stanchions should be. If I had it to do over again, I'd halve the space between them.
  13. TBlack
    Michael, Thanks for your encouragement. Tough situation re the website, but we must carry on. The benefit of redoing a log is that you have the opportunity to cut out the extraneous stuff!
  14. TBlack
    The after part of that cabin was a little trickier because of the curve at the stern. You can see from the photo that I made the sides up from the cherry sheet material and that there are two pieces that meet at the middle of the curve. Because there would not have been room to assemble the aftermost windows once the sides were installed on the boat, it meant that all assembly and painting had to be done prior to attaching to the forming block at the curve. It was touchy!
  15. TBlack
    Finished product:
  16. TBlack
    The windows had insets applied to the backsides. I made these of plastic moldings for uniformity. The pictures below show the process. I don't seem to have a photo of the finished product, but it comes out white and needs cleaning up around the edges and some green paint.
  17. TBlack
    On to the cabin sides. It's a little tricky, because the windows have to follow the sheer line but the sills are parallel to the waterline, and the door has to be high enough to clear the bulwark. I wasn't sure how to tackle the layout, so I tossed the problem to my brother, the architect, who has a CAD program. I gave him the photo on the left with a copy of the sheer line and he came back with the photo on the right. All I did was to paste that drawing onto a piece of sheet cherry and cut it out. Simple.
  18. TBlack
    Seal the deck and apply a little paint to the hull, and voila!
  19. TBlack
    Not a lot of main deck to install as you can see in the first photo. I decided to get creative with regard to the deck material. I discovered sycamore which has a grain and color that looks very similar to oak; hopefully you can see that in the other three photos.
  20. TBlack
    More planking. The sponsons are starting to show up. The trick is to preserve a definite curved line where the sposon attaches to the hull.
  21. TBlack
    I decided not to try to plank the stern area. The lines are too fine back there and I would have made a hash of it. Instead that part of the hull will be solid, shaped basswood (left photo). I decided to do the same thing at the bow; in retrospect, I'm not sure why I thought that area would be difficult, because it really isn't. Anyway...
  22. TBlack
    The keel and Stem are next. I made those out of cherry and borrowed a technique from Chuck Passaro whereby I put a stringer between the keel and profile piece to create the rabbet.
  23. TBlack
    I'm building this model POB style and the plan has 10 station lines which correspond to the bulkheads on the model. 10 bulkheads over 25" hull length means a little more distance between bulkheads than I would like, but I have no drafting facilities or capabilities, so I can't add anymore bulkheads. I'll just have to deal with it. The picture on the left shows (faintly) the 10 bulkhead lines taken off the plan and cemented to the bulkhead material. The right photo shows the bulkheads mounted on the profile form. The middle bulkheads extend above the main deck to provide a framework for the main deck cabin.
  24. TBlack
    Chuck brings good news and bad news. The bad news is that I have to redo all my entries and dig up all the old photos. The good news is I get to redo the log and polish it up as I go! Vinal Haven (sometimes Vinalhaven) was built in Searsport, ME in 1892. 6 months after launch she caught fire which destroyed the original superstructure. The yard in Searsport rebuilt her with a newly designed superstructure, and it is this version of the boat that I am modelling. Later, in 1905, the ship underwent additional changes; she was lengthened by 15 feet. Vinal Haven provided ferry service out of Roclkand, ME to the islands in Penobscot Bay, principally Vinal Haven. She survived until 1938. I was able to locate a plan of the hull at the Mystic Seaport Museum, and various pictures of the ship come from the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath, ME, the Penobscot Maritime Museum in Searsport, ME, and the Smithsonian in Washington. I will build this ship at 1:48 and can use the plan to get an accurate hull, but will have to build the superstructure from the photographs.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...