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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. TBlack
    Andy, Those windows came out gloriously! Not easy to cut so many parallel lines. Bravo Zulu! Tom
  2. TBlack
    Michael, Just painted field stone, a typical New England foundation. My greatest aspiration is to, one day, have a shop above ground. I see so many pictures here of shops with BIG windows...I'm very envious. Tom
  3. TBlack
    I haven't kept this log current, largely because there isn't much new or different in the way I'm approaching the rigging. The only real issue has been the stuns'l booms which are one continuous spar laid on top of the yardarms. That makes it difficult to provide proper rigging in hanging the yard on the mast, but I managed. On yeah, and the halyards, at this scale, were a pain in the neck. Try threading 2mm double blocks and keeping the lines from twisting! After this, 1:96 will look huge. At this point I need to rig the braces, hang the anchors, coil the lines.
  4. TBlack
    Michael, Fabulous idea! Nice looking subject; I hope you're able to get the information you need for your satisfaction, although the photo of Skipjack gives you quite a bit of information. This model will be about 28.5" long? With working engine? That build will be fun to watch, although I can't envision a crankshaft out of a bicycle chain! Tom
  5. TBlack
    Jay, I love your videos. Yes, they are informative, but they are also very well produced. Micro-mark sells the silver solder paste that Bob mentions. It comes in a small tube. Tom
  6. TBlack
    John, Preiser has a wonderful looking eagle, but it's part of a set. The set costs $22.00. Maybe Andy and I could do a deal wherein I buy the set, take out the eagle, and sell him the rest of the set for his railroad club for $20? Sounds fair? Tom
  7. TBlack
    Pete, My aunt owns one of these, built in Eastport, Me. I think. I've sailed it a number of times. A mighty fine craft; good and solid; lots of mahogany. I'll certainly be following your progress. Did you decide on a scale? (sorry, just read the headline, duhh!) Tom
  8. TBlack
    Andy, Steam blowdown muffler? Who woulda thunk it! Anyway, it's good to have you around. Google produced this How about it?: Tom
  9. TBlack
    OK, I'll take all these likes as an endorsement of my decision to follow Adrieke's suggestion. Great, but we're really not there yet. I still have some accoutrements to deal with around the funnel. Steam escape valve: On the left, what do you suppose that really looks like. The whistle on the right is no problem. Tom
  10. TBlack
    Adrieke, This is a fabulous find, and thank you very much for the lead. Initially, I was intrigued by the tutorial on building my own eagle, but then realized they were trying to model the real bird. Of course, I'm modelling a casting of an eagle. I think the way to go is with the musket miniatures offering; the price is certainly right. Tom
  11. TBlack
    Thanks, Andy, I looked at their sites and didn't see any eagles available. I think Michael's idea of the jewelry lead is a strong possibility. There's a lot to look at in that category, some very expensive and some (from China) not bad, but wholesale. While the price is right, I really don't want to end up with 90 eagles when I only want one! Tom PS I'm thinking about changing my avatar. That baby is now 3 years old. And I think Robbyn has changed hers twice in the last 3 months. Stand by!
  12. TBlack
    Mark, These are terrible pictures because my camera is quite rudimentory, but perhaps you can get the idea. The eagle is 3 dimensional and probably about 12 mm beak to tail feathers in profile and 10 mm at its widest. Tom
  13. TBlack
    Michael, I didn't have any yew (BTW, nice looking piece of wood), so I substituted cherry. I'll get back to you on the eagle charms, another good idea, but lots to look at and I'm not buying gold @ $250/charm. Cap'n Bob, thanks for looking in. Tom
  14. TBlack
    I made pretty good progress on the Amanda, and finished the Titanic for my grandson, so I got to try out Michael's suggestion. Duck soup! Very simple, very elegant solution: It needs cleaning up and painted flat black, and it's done! I'm delighted. Michael, you've gotten me through this process and also your help on the pilot house windows. There's just one more sticky wicket: the eagle on top of the pilot house. Any ideas? Tom
  15. TBlack
    I'm with Augie, I think it looks pretty good, too! Tom
  16. TBlack
    Andy, Have you tried this product? Tom http://www.testors.com/product/136637/3527C/_/Non-Toxic_Cement_Liquid_Cement
  17. TBlack
    Bob, I can't wait to see what the whole thing looks like either, but I've got to get this stack right, as it's a pretty prominent feature on the model. Also, I'm working on 2 other boats, one for my grandson and the other a restoration of a clipper ship (im getting paid for the latter, o I really need to be working on it). Tom
  18. TBlack
    You just gave me an idea! What I can do is drill the 5/8" hole part way through my "yew piece". Lock the piece in position on the drill press; switch out drills to say 1/4" drill; drill through the yew piece; insert screw and tighten; mount that in the lathe; finish off the lip in the yew piece; reposition at the drill press and finish drilling out the 5/8" hole. Voila! I'l give it a try, thanks. But just because you can do it doesn't mean I can. Tom
  19. TBlack
    Michael, That looks fabulous, and you make it look so easy! Only one problem. I can't put the yew piece in my lathe to create the sloped edge My lathe doesn't have the clearance necessary to handle a piece of that diameter. See picture: Tom
  20. TBlack
    Michael & John, OK, here's another photo with more evidence. I'm hoping you can see the detail. The rings, truly, must be quite thin as they don't seem to stand out at all from this angle. I'm thinking I could use a strip of paper to accomplish the task. Also, to John's point, where the strip is strengthening the guy wires/stays, all you can see is a shiny band; there is another shiny band lower down which would validate John's observation about a second band. Finally, it looks like the top doesn't have a band around it, but rather is flared. I have no way to do that with my tools. My alternative is to put the stack back in the lathe and apply a round file to the band that rings the top. If that ends up looking hokey, then I'll just have to live with a straight stack. Tom
  21. TBlack
    John, You may be right. It would be easy enough to add another one. I'll have to look at my other photos. The lower of the two rings takes the four stays. So the addition of a third ring would be just for structural integrity? Tom
  22. TBlack
    Andy, Your Peggy looks like a dingy by comparison. I just finished building a resin kit of the Titanic for my grandson, and, while the assembly wasn't difficult, like your model, there was a lot of detailed painting which consumed most of my time. Good luck with this beast! Tom PS I just looked at the linked page for your RR club; it doesn't look like they're going to need your ship for a while, so at least you have time to spend on the build.
  23. TBlack
    Michael, Bob, New up-date. I figured if my first attempt at rings in wood were a bust, why not stick my neck out a little and see if I could get them down to proper size. If I ruined them, no loss. Anyway, I chucked the tube in the lathe and applied file and sandpaper and got the rings down to less than .5 mm without damage (I think that's less than an inch at 1:48?). Also, I replaced the brass skirt with a styrene one. Take a look: I'm a lot happier with this arrangement. And, Bob, I'll check out Special Shapes in any event; thanks for the tip. Tom
  24. TBlack
    Michael, Why does life have to be so complicated? Tom
  25. TBlack
    Popeye, Thanks for the support. I actually think the rings look fine, standalone; they don't look grossly over-sized. I was just comparing them to the picture. Michael, As I was reading your suggestions, I remembered that Longridge, in his book on the building of Victory, mentions using square wire in its construction. So I googled "square wire" and it turns out that jewelers use it all the time. It's available, in copper, all the way up to 8 guage. Does anybody know what the dimension of 8 guage is? Tom

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