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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. TBlack
    Dear 3Bs, You certainly answered my questions, and thanks for the prompt reply. I hadn't counted on the plywood, in its thin state, getting out of square. But, thanks to you, I will be aware of it. I don't think there's any way around it. Tom
  2. TBlack
    Dear 3 Bs: Sorry to come late to the party; you ARE doing a first-rate job. But I've got a question for you: I'm building a 1:64 scale Sphinx class frigate, and I'm just working on the 26 bulkheads. I had decided that I would put the lower decks in prior to planking the hull for ease of access. It looks like you're doing the planking prior to decking. Is there some consideration that I'm missing, or does it really matter? Also, on the bulkheads: the side arms (I don't know what to call them) that stick up: how fragile are they and do I need to take special precautions in making mine? I was going to do what you started out doing (incorporating deck beams in the bulkhead), but now I see you've taken yours out. I think it's quite a lot of work putting them in in the first place. Maybe I'll just follow your lead and not put the beams into the bulkheads. Got any thoughts? Tom
  3. TBlack
    Alex, I'm still trying to get to the difficult part! Anyway, I'm still setting up to make bulkheads. You sure did make a lot of them! Tom
  4. TBlack
    Alex, You work well in both metal and wood. It's almost intimidating! I bought your plan in 1:64 - very complete - and suits me fully.. The only problem is that you set the bar pretty high and about the only thing we have in common is our Unimats. But I will soldier on, trying to follow your example. Tom
  5. TBlack
    I've used apple in various applications with great success. It handles like the other fruit tree wood: pear or cherry. It can have some blond streaks through it that you have to work around. Here are a couple more examples of applewood: Tom
  6. TBlack
    Chris, Thanks for sharing; and very nicely explained. Tom
  7. TBlack
    Michael & Arthur, It's not that the model is small, it's that the 3 people standing next to it are really big! TB
  8. TBlack
    Michael, Popeye, John, Andy, all you guys who got me through this project and who have stuck with me for so many years, Thank You! Michael, In the picture the guy on the left is Bill Chilles who is the president of the Historical Society, and on the right is Chandler Blackington, a director of, the Society, and the driving force behind this presentation. What you don't see is about 8-10 other people who have gathered to watch the proceedings. I was very happy with the turn out and delighted that the model has a really appropriate home and will be seen by many people. And they were really appreciative of the donation. Tom
  9. TBlack
    Just to put the final touch to this log, here is the official photo plus a photo of the presentation ceremony at the Vinalhaven Historical Society
  10. TBlack
    Jason, Why not stain the beech to a darker shade? Or am I missing something? Tom
  11. TBlack
    Bob, I finally decided to read what you have written, and I think I understand a little more about the issue. Two halyards, one for the throat and one for the peak. The peak halyard: fastened at the end of the gaff, leads up to a double block at the crosstrees, back to a single block about midway out on the gaff, back up to the other side of the double block and then down to belaying point. Throat halyard: double block at the jaws of the gaff and double block at the crosstrees.... the end of the halyard is attached to the upper block; down to one side of the lower block; up to one side of the upper block; down to the remaining side of the lower block; up to the remaining side of the upper block; down to belaying point. That makes 5 lines for that halyard, Does that help? Also, from my experience, even though the peak halyard has less back and forth through blocks, it ends up being the longer because of the extra distance. Tom
  12. TBlack
    Bob, Back in the late 1950's I sailed on a 42 foot Alden schooner with double gaff rig. The masts probably we're not as tall as your project, but there was still a lot of line to deal with. Especially holding the coil in one hand while feeding the line to the coil with the other hand. Putting the coil on the pin is not really an issue, because the coil, itself, doesn't go on the pin. As you may know, when coiling the line you leave some line, say a couple of feet between the coil and the pin. When the line is fully coiled and held in your hand, with your other hand reach through the hole in the coil and grab the line running between the coil and the pin (those couple of feet); pull it through the hole and around the top of the coil, creating a loop. This loop goes over the pin, not the whole coil. Tom
  13. TBlack
    Great idea, Pete. The America's Cup boats have come a long way since those days. Australia II looks almost quaint! Tom
  14. TBlack
    Ron, Thank God! I will certainly let Alex off the hook, and latch onto you! First question: where we're you able to find all the information for Camilla? I would really like to model the Ariel in which John Paul Jones had his last sea battle. I sent off an email to NMM weeks ago, but no answer. I suspect that they discovered that my ancestors fought in the Revolution, and they're still mad at us. Dave, I'm giving this to my son; he has much more room than I do. The other models are out in the garage! Tom
  15. TBlack
    Herbert, Thanks for the information. I see that some of the earlier photos have dates on them going back to 2006. So it's not a fast build, which suits me just fine. But I'm already developing some questions about the bulkheads. I can probably figure it out; it's just easier to ask. Tom
  16. TBlack
    We haven't heard anything from Alex in several months. I hope everything is all right. If you peruse Chuck Passaro's site, Syren Model Co., you'll discover that you can buy a set of Alex's plans for this model, which I did, in 1:64. I was hoping to use Alex's log as a mini practicum and certainly an inspiration for my own improvement. Incidentally, Alex's plans are first rate, and Chuck puts them out on good, heavy paper. Tom
  17. TBlack
    Nice work, Pete. You've mentioned a couple of times that you soak wood in alcohol prior to bending it. I've always just used water; am I missing out on a good thing? Tom
  18. TBlack
    Yves, There's a Herreshoff museum in Bristol, RI. You might want to inquire of them for plans. Tom
  19. TBlack
    OK, I get it. Good solution. Most entrepreneurial of you! Tom
  20. TBlack
    Pete, Will you tell us how you fabricated the turnbuckles? Tom
  21. TBlack
    Look who's talking! Ha!
  22. TBlack
    I'm assuming you shaped the funnel by eye? Came out damn good! And the way you're knocking this pilot house together w/o plans is amazing. If you were a piano player, you'd be one of those who can just sit down, without sheet music, and create a symphony! Tom
  23. TBlack
    You guys are all too nice to me. This site has the most inspiring and encouraging group of people. Bless you all! The model is good, but it's not that good, but I'm getting better! Tom
  24. TBlack
  25. TBlack
    Michael, You get part of the credit for this build. Pilot house windows, smoke stack, and running lights. Did I forget anything? Pete, Size is the main consideration. I can work down to 1:64 and the final product has to fit in a normal sized house. I've been following Alex's build of Sphynx in the scratch builds. The advantage is that the hull is only just over 100' long, and Alex makes plans available through Chuck Passaro at Syren. Tom.

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