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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. Old Salt, Wooden sails? Maybe a solution for those of us who have no access to a sewing machine, let alone know how to use it. Maybe you could give us a tutorial on how to manufacture and shape a wooden sail? I love the real boat. Neat looking craft. Did she have a topsail as well? Tom
  2. John, That eagle was due to a suggestion from Andrieke (the benefits of community). It comes from a supplier to the model railroad guys. I'm delighted with the result, and a pretty easy solution, too. Popeye, That's it; bulkheads around a former and then cover the whole thing with "canvas". Here's the real thing: Tom
  3. January has been a cold month here, and, with my workshop in the basement, the working conditions have not been ideal. Nevertheless, I've been (slowly) working on the life boats. I determined that they are 5.25" long. I got a plan out of a book (thank you Portia) and sized it on the copier to the proper length. Now, I'm just putting them together. They have a canvas cover over them, so I don't need to do the interiors. The stays, with turnbuckles, for the stack all came out fine. I'll see if I can get a decent photo, but I've got a poor camera for detail work. Tom
  4. Nils, Having already viewed the final product, I'm in awe, especially given the 1:96. A great tribute to your grandfather; a testimonial to your skill; and a family heirloom! Tom PS. And you built her in a mere 2 years!
  5. Andy, Nice piece of work. I thought your original idea about construction paper sounded pretty good. It's readily available; you don't have to take any emulsion off; you have to cut to size either way. What's the problem? Tom
  6. Wayne, I built this kit about 20 years ago. I can't remember the details now, but it seems to me that there were some differences in the waist between what Portia drew and the kit supplied. It was a question of how much fixed spar deck there was versus gangboards. But my memory is foggy at this point. Also, as I recall, the kit supplies pressed wood pieces for the bow and quarter gallery details. I hope you'll try your hand at kit bashing those details. It will add a lot to the finished appearance. Tom
  7. Beautiful frame, Bob. The CAD serves you well. I feel like a dinosaur next to your ability with a computer. Tom
  8. Thanks, guys, for the support. I can't decide whether to paint the eagle or leave him alone. Tom
  9. I think that looks pretty slick. You're certainly the man to do this project for the club, given your background. I can't see buckling from here, but I'll take your word for it. By now, the seaway MUST have frozen over. Tom
  10. Popeye, The first attempt got lost to the floor. I thought, by inserting a black wire in the middle of the tube , that in filing down the outside of the tube I would come to the black wire and know to stop. Actually, what happens is that the flashing from the filing covers up the black wire and you end up filing straight through the tube! Second attempt: file a little bit and plunge the black wire back and forth cleans out the flash and you know when to stop filing. Anyway, all 4 turnbuckles done. But I think I need #3 piano wire for the stays to ensure that they are straight. In the meantime, I've been working on the ladder and eagle. This is Andrieke's eagle, by the way. A terrific tip and a huge saver! Tom
  11. You're a very generous fella; I hope there is no timeframe. Tom
  12. Jon, I drop in from time to time to watch your progress. You may think the model is not perfect, but you're the only one who knows that, so keep it to yourself. She looks pretty good to me. With regard to installing blocks later, I'm sure it doesn't matter one way or the other, but be aware that you'll need to get your pin vise down on the deck to make holes for the eye bolts. You might want to put the holes in now while you've got swinging room for the drilling. Tom
  13. Oh, I forgot to mention preserve those sails. As ratty as they may be, they'll serve as patterns for the new ones. It's a lot easier to recruit a seamstress if you have a pattern and supply the cloth. Tom
  14. Wes, I'm with Mark in having a keen interest in your approach to the hull construction. You may be on to something. There is a second Portia Takakjian book that pre-dates the AOTS book, simply called Essex, Building a Plank-On-Frame Model that she wrote in 1985. It's along the lines of a practicum on building the model. It's a Phoenix publication. It would be a big help to you if it's still available. Tom
  15. I've done a couple of restorations in my time. One very similar to your project. I took a hint from another of our members here and asked the owner what did he want it to look like when all done. Did he want a brand new boat, or did he want to maintain the "antique" quality? If the latter, I'm not sure I'd take all the paint off, but rather try to repair what was there. I think you'll have your hands full cleaning up the metal fittings (if they haven't degraded too much), matching the rigging line, installing a new bowsprit, etc. Are all the blocks still present? If you really feel the urge to paint, tackle the foretop. It looks like it's been replaced previously and the staining doesn't match the other spars. Anyway, just a few observations. Also, take lots of pictures now so when you start to take the boat apart to clean it, you can get it all back together again in the right order. Otherwise, she's a nice looking pond yacht with a history. Go to it! Tom
  16. Amen to that, John. Michael, thanks for all your help on the pilot house, the stack, the turnbuckles. You've gone way out of your way to aid me. Andy, I think those dentils look pretty good. You certainly can't tell they're plastic, thanks for the suggestion. And guys, thanks for all the "likes", BTW, Wacko, what are you doing up at 3:40 AM? If my work looks pleasing to you, a large part of that is due to this website. It inspires me to try just a little bit harder and not to be afraid to throw out a first attempt, or even a second until I've got what I want. Tom
  17. Michael, This was only my second try, but I think I've gotten it. Sorry for the fuzzy picture, but my camera doesn't do close-ups. The flip side of the turnbuckle looks like the side you're viewing. The wire in the center (28 gauge) is a good idea if only to stiffen things up while filing. Also, I decided to paint out the moulding around the boat deck. It looks big and clunky to me next to the moulding around the pilot house, and it's less obvious if painted. Also, the real boat didn't have brightwork up there. I promise never to use bass wood for moulding again!
  18. John, If that little slip-up is all you have to worry about......well, you'll not get any sympathy from me! BTW, a 1:48 must seem enormous to you. And will this model be in pristine condition, or will it have freight and laundry cast about the deck? Tom
  19. Thank you, Harvey, Bob, Mark, Woodrat, and Piet for your compliments. Now I can devote all my time to Vinal Haven. Tom
  20. I haven't given a step-by-step in this log, largely because there hasn't been anything unique or problematic in the rebuild of this model that I thought might be remotely interesting to you all. If I'm wrong, and you have questions, please let me know, or as they say, forever hold your peace! I've done about all I can do for this model and I hope the owner will be happy. It should be good for a few more generations. Tom
  21. Graham, I use little wooden blocks that have all right angles like this: I'm not familiar with your particular kit, but, in general, the top of the bulkheads should be just even with the top of the "keel". Tom
  22. QA, They do have serrated jaws, but you can always file them down. My principal problem with them is that their gripping pressure is very strong and prone to damaging delicate wooden parts. Use selectively Tom
  23. We'll, Pete, my wife asked me tonight what was I going to do with the boat when I'm done. I dunno; I've got 4 of my models sitting in a neighbor's basement for lack of any other space. Tom
  24. Nils, Thanks for the compliment. Vinal Haven used to sail out of Rockland, Maine servicing the islands in the Penobscot Bay area from 1892 to 1938. She's a typical configuration for steamers of that era. Also, thanks to all of you for the "likes". I appreciate the support.. While I'm waiting for the turnbuckle brass to arrive, I'm turning to the boats. They're big, 5.25" long, but no interior, as they are covered. I thought I would build them POB style. I think it might be easier for me to make sure they are duplicates. Tom
  25. OK, I'll bite.....How do you know? Regardless, it's good advice. Anyway, I had to order on line. $1.75 for the rod and $8.00 for shipping. Something is out of whack, and it won't get here until Jan 7. I'll work on the boats until then. John, I'm looking at the time of your latest encouraging remark, and realizing that there's a 14 hour difference between your place and mine. That means you posted at 6:30 AM? Early riser? Tom
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