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TBlack

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Everything posted by TBlack

  1. TBlack
    Joe, Nice work! Very crisp! My first scratch build was of this ship. I got to the point of installing deck furniture. There are supposed to be 2 long guns on board in addition to the carronades. I couldn't figure out where to put them that would give them room for recoil. Merritt Edson built a model of the ship for the Smithsonian, so I went down there to check it out. He couldn't figure out where to put them either, so he left them off. So did I. That means the world is waiting for your solution! Tom
  2. TBlack
    I'll add my "Bravo Zulu" to this crowd. Nice work! It also occurs to me as I've read your log, that you must have an inexhaustible inventory of brass and wood, not to mention just the right tool for each job. I'm envious! Tom
  3. TBlack
    Michael, That's seems to work pretty smoothly. I think you've solved the issue. Tom
  4. TBlack
    Guillemot, I'm just discovering your beautiful work. Thanks for the explanation of how to manufacture sails without the use of a sewing machine! This opens all kinds of possibilities. Also, I read that you're not entirely happy with the color of the water. That's not the first thing that catches the eye. What is more remarkable is the texture nd the way it meets the hull. That's all very realistic. Besides, the water takes on all kinds of different colors in different parts of the world; who is to say what is a correct color? Tom
  5. TBlack
    Greg, I like that workbench; the lighting looks terrific! I think you said that you got the plans from the Smithsonian and had them reduced to 1:72? Tom
  6. TBlack
    Mark, That's my problem; I don't know what to do next. I have to put together a Nimitz class aircraft carrier for my grandson, but that doesn't count. I looked into doing a model of the continental frigate Randolph, but there's scant information on her. So maybe not. We'll see. Tom
  7. TBlack
    Michael, It occurs to me that your solutions are always simple yet elegant, and effective. But also your presentation and photography are most complete. It's a joy to read your log! Tom
  8. TBlack
    Bob, I haven't checked in with you for a while, and I see you've made excellent progress. The hull looks beautiful! Up to your standards. I had to make hawse holes for Vinal Haven. I decided to make just the outer lips which I fashioned to oval shape from styrene sheet. So, you need 4, 2 for each side. Drill a small hole in the styrene and enlarge with file, or knife to oval shape; then file the outside edge down to make the lip; stick it on the hull. Tom
  9. TBlack
    John, There's a picture of the boat on the bottom of page 18. The tie-downs are "Y" shaped and I need about 20 "eyes" on the deck to tie them down. I'm doing that chore now. Then on to davits and tackle. After that, its a smoke stack on the starboard side, running lights and name boards and I'm done! Tom
  10. TBlack
    I finished the boats. I need to install the tie-downs and trim up the "canvas" covers. The "canvas" is 2 pieces of kleenex soaked in a solution of glue and then draped over the boat to dry. I've been slow to work on this boat this winter, maybe because I'm coming to the end of the trail, and I don't know what to do next! Tom
  11. TBlack
    Old Salt, Wooden sails? Maybe a solution for those of us who have no access to a sewing machine, let alone know how to use it. Maybe you could give us a tutorial on how to manufacture and shape a wooden sail? I love the real boat. Neat looking craft. Did she have a topsail as well? Tom
  12. TBlack
    John, That eagle was due to a suggestion from Andrieke (the benefits of community). It comes from a supplier to the model railroad guys. I'm delighted with the result, and a pretty easy solution, too. Popeye, That's it; bulkheads around a former and then cover the whole thing with "canvas". Here's the real thing: Tom
  13. TBlack
    January has been a cold month here, and, with my workshop in the basement, the working conditions have not been ideal. Nevertheless, I've been (slowly) working on the life boats. I determined that they are 5.25" long. I got a plan out of a book (thank you Portia) and sized it on the copier to the proper length. Now, I'm just putting them together. They have a canvas cover over them, so I don't need to do the interiors. The stays, with turnbuckles, for the stack all came out fine. I'll see if I can get a decent photo, but I've got a poor camera for detail work. Tom
  14. TBlack
    Nils, Having already viewed the final product, I'm in awe, especially given the 1:96. A great tribute to your grandfather; a testimonial to your skill; and a family heirloom! Tom PS. And you built her in a mere 2 years!
  15. TBlack
    Andy, Nice piece of work. I thought your original idea about construction paper sounded pretty good. It's readily available; you don't have to take any emulsion off; you have to cut to size either way. What's the problem? Tom
  16. TBlack
    Wayne, I built this kit about 20 years ago. I can't remember the details now, but it seems to me that there were some differences in the waist between what Portia drew and the kit supplied. It was a question of how much fixed spar deck there was versus gangboards. But my memory is foggy at this point. Also, as I recall, the kit supplies pressed wood pieces for the bow and quarter gallery details. I hope you'll try your hand at kit bashing those details. It will add a lot to the finished appearance. Tom
  17. TBlack
    Beautiful frame, Bob. The CAD serves you well. I feel like a dinosaur next to your ability with a computer. Tom
  18. TBlack
    Thanks, guys, for the support. I can't decide whether to paint the eagle or leave him alone. Tom
  19. TBlack
    I think that looks pretty slick. You're certainly the man to do this project for the club, given your background. I can't see buckling from here, but I'll take your word for it. By now, the seaway MUST have frozen over. Tom
  20. TBlack
    Popeye, The first attempt got lost to the floor. I thought, by inserting a black wire in the middle of the tube , that in filing down the outside of the tube I would come to the black wire and know to stop. Actually, what happens is that the flashing from the filing covers up the black wire and you end up filing straight through the tube! Second attempt: file a little bit and plunge the black wire back and forth cleans out the flash and you know when to stop filing. Anyway, all 4 turnbuckles done. But I think I need #3 piano wire for the stays to ensure that they are straight. In the meantime, I've been working on the ladder and eagle. This is Andrieke's eagle, by the way. A terrific tip and a huge saver! Tom
  21. TBlack
    You're a very generous fella; I hope there is no timeframe. Tom
  22. TBlack
    Jon, I drop in from time to time to watch your progress. You may think the model is not perfect, but you're the only one who knows that, so keep it to yourself. She looks pretty good to me. With regard to installing blocks later, I'm sure it doesn't matter one way or the other, but be aware that you'll need to get your pin vise down on the deck to make holes for the eye bolts. You might want to put the holes in now while you've got swinging room for the drilling. Tom
  23. TBlack
    Oh, I forgot to mention preserve those sails. As ratty as they may be, they'll serve as patterns for the new ones. It's a lot easier to recruit a seamstress if you have a pattern and supply the cloth. Tom
  24. TBlack
    Wes, I'm with Mark in having a keen interest in your approach to the hull construction. You may be on to something. There is a second Portia Takakjian book that pre-dates the AOTS book, simply called Essex, Building a Plank-On-Frame Model that she wrote in 1985. It's along the lines of a practicum on building the model. It's a Phoenix publication. It would be a big help to you if it's still available. Tom
  25. TBlack
    I've done a couple of restorations in my time. One very similar to your project. I took a hint from another of our members here and asked the owner what did he want it to look like when all done. Did he want a brand new boat, or did he want to maintain the "antique" quality? If the latter, I'm not sure I'd take all the paint off, but rather try to repair what was there. I think you'll have your hands full cleaning up the metal fittings (if they haven't degraded too much), matching the rigging line, installing a new bowsprit, etc. Are all the blocks still present? If you really feel the urge to paint, tackle the foretop. It looks like it's been replaced previously and the staining doesn't match the other spars. Anyway, just a few observations. Also, take lots of pictures now so when you start to take the boat apart to clean it, you can get it all back together again in the right order. Otherwise, she's a nice looking pond yacht with a history. Go to it! Tom

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