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TBlack

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  1. TBlack
    I've had slow going on the pilot house. In part, because I was trying to make it out of one piece, and in part because I fell off the back porch and busted a rib and bashed my face up really good. Any way, after several failed attempts I realized the pilot house skin had to be in several pieces. The really tricky part is the dividers between the windows. They are thin and close together and so ANY deviation from parallel or thickness stands out. Easier to do them separately. So that's what I did. What I didn't do, and should have, was, as Michael has just suggested, to allow for a rabbet on the inside of the window partition for the inner liner. that can be fixed. On the subject of maintaining the curve, I think I can take the wooden plug and cut off the bottom up to flush with the bottom of the 2 doors (about 3/8") and use that to maintain the proper shape along the bottom. A thinner one around the roof ought to take care of the top. Once I put the interior paneling in place the walls ought to be stiff enough to carry the roof without bowing? The styrene is .030" thick. And Michael, I'm all over that 1/2 round under the windows. It's the moulding at the roof that is more interesting. David Antscherl gave me a tip on how to approach it; let's see if I can carry it off!
  2. TBlack
    Len, Thanks for putting this back. As I recall, you provide a lot of very useful information and experience. One thing, back in your first post you mentioned that you bought sheet stock from Cornwall. I'm assuming that you did that to get lumber dimensioned in mm rather than in.? Sorry to miss you at RI, but I know it's a long haul for you. During the event the various ship model clubs were called away for a group photo. At the next event we could do a MSW group photo as well! Tom
  3. TBlack
    Volume 4? Does that mean that you have the previous 3 volumes? David is around here somewhere; bet you could get him to sign it! Also, this book is focusing on what you call "the dark side" (I'd call it freedom!); does that mean that you're getting closer to the edge? Tom
  4. TBlack
    Thanks, Andy, I'll give it a try right after I fix the garage door opener. And I read your entry about how the Engineers saved the day! Tom
  5. TBlack
    Thanks, Andy, but what about the uprights between the windows? Are they going to be misshapen in the process? BTW, when I mentioned your 2 options, my wife immediately thought the hot water technique was preferable (she has no idea), but she wasn't going to give up her hair dryer! Does this reply mean you're back home? Tom
  6. TBlack
    OK, sounds intriguing. And the styrene will hold its shape when dry, right? Also will the uprights between windows wrinkle in the heating process? Notice how thin they are in the photo. Tom
  7. TBlack
    OK John, I get it, but my mandrel is wooden does wood ignite before styrene melts? Do we have any chemists on this board. Oh, wait, yes, we have Themadchemist! I definitely need professional help!
  8. TBlack
    I'm not sure I understand about the heating thing. How do you apply that and how hot does it need to be? Tom
  9. TBlack
    OK you guys, but if it doesn't work it's your fault and if it does work I get the credit! Anyway, can't do anything about it until Sunday. Tom
  10. TBlack
    Thanks, guys, but I'm still a little hesitant. I want to build the exterior of this pilot house out of one piece of styrene. I'm told, however, by experts who have gone before me that I should build it up piecemeal. I'm either a fool or a genius!
  11. TBlack
    Dan, Whoa! huge improvement! lookin' good! Yes, they probably are line brakes; I'm a dinosaur and used to cleats. See you Sat. Tom
  12. TBlack
    Dan, I'd echo Druxey's comment. Also, when I look at the photo of the actual boat it looks like the forward part of the handhold is even with the forward edge of the short skid pad. So maybe your holds need to be longer? Or it may just be the perspective that is throwing me off. Also, and this is not about the model, but on the boat, the lines coming through those jam cleats look awfully small for that size rig, and would be hard to haul on? Tom
  13. TBlack
    I decided to build a "plug" (think ship's boat construction) around which to build the pilot house. It also serves to show the massing of the houses to make sure it all will look like the photos.
  14. TBlack
    Steve, I did an Aeropiccola version of the frigate Essex back in the late 80's. It was very similar to what Pierre has mentioned: hard to determine scale; and, as you've pointed out, the head rails and stern detail were all pressed wood. I would encourage you to throw those parts away and build those areas up on your own. It's not that difficult, and there's a lot of help here. You will be happier with the result. Anyway, go to it! we're all cheering you on! Also, you've got a good start with a smooth looking hull! Tom
  15. TBlack
    Popeye, I'm just catching up with your wonderful accomplishments with this build. She looks very yar! I'm not sure I understand your unhappiness with the anchor arrangement. I don't believe a boat that size would have had hawse holes in the hull, and the arrangement that you've shown is the way I've seen it in my experience. The only thing lacking is a couple of fairleads (chocks) mounted on the cap rail near the stem (they keep the anchor chain from chewing up the rail and they also keep the anchor road coming off the bow as the ship swings to wind/tide.) Tom
  16. TBlack
    Sarah, Nice work, especially at that scale. I particularly liked the furling job...very neat! Your logs are fun to follow not only to see your work, but the repartee is especially entertaining. Don't focus so much on the moderator work that you neglect to post entries! I hope you're not moving far...not out of the Seattle area? And a TINY Missouri? How tiny is tiny? Tom
  17. TBlack
    Well Randy, whatever, you're a champ!
  18. TBlack
    Enemeink, Glad to have you back for very selfish reasons. My first scratch build attempt was this craft, so, sentimentally, it's close to me. It looks like you've been able to overcome some terrible manufacturing problems, and your results look very smooth. One of the things I discovered in my research is that there are two long guns also included in the armament. I could never figure out where they would go that would allow for their recoil. There is a model of the Prince in the Smithsonian done by Merritt Edson; he couldn't figure it out either and also left them off his model. I think I showed you the bow escutcheon back in version 1.0; I'll do it again when you get to that point if you'll remind me. Tom
  19. TBlack
    Thanks, John, Adrieke, and Michael. Michael, my brass work is merely paint; yours is art. As I recall, you live just west of Toronto on a lake where your craft will get its trial run? Do your neighbors know of the talent in their midst? Thanks for keeping us all in awe. Tom
  20. TBlack
    Randy! They look fabulous. You weren't sandbagging us were you? I mean, you started this thread implying that you were a novice. The results show otherwise. Tom
  21. TBlack
    Simply by way of letting you know that I'm plugging along. Nothing particularly unique or noteworthy on the building of the salon. The big challenge is the pilot house; not only because of its curved front and flat windows, but also because I'd like to include the interior. Anyway, here's where I am today:
  22. TBlack
    I can't add any different compliments; your work is truly amazing. I did spend some time looking at those two shackles and tried to figure out why the first one didn't measure up. I'm guessing that you didn't like the fact that the body of the first one, coming from strip, had a rectangular cross section as opposed to round? Also, I'm not sure how you get the pin to have the flat place for your fingers looking so symmetrical and smooth. Oh, and the block that's included in the bobstay rig doesn't look too bad either! Tom
  23. TBlack
    Dan, I'll echo what my colleagues have said about your perfect shaping/carving. But I'll also add that your ability to pull that off successfully requires not only an attention to detail but also an understanding of the bigger picture and how it all fits together...a rare talent! Tom
  24. TBlack
    Randy, in soldering the parts together, if you "tin" each part up ahead of time with the solder, then when you join them and heat them, they'll come right together. I find that trying to keep the parts together in the right place; get a tiny amount of solder placed in the joint; then applying heat is too many things to juggle at one time. So if you apply the solder first to each part and then join the parts...much easier. Tom
  25. TBlack
    Randy, I'm reading that your objection to brass is its shine? Can't you just blacken it or otherwise paint it to remove the objection? The ones in the picture are painted brass. Tom

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