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TBlack

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  1. TBlack
    I'm working on constructing the salon on the 01 level. I'm approaching it the same way I did the main deck cabin, but then I had my brother's help and CAD program to produce a template. But he's out of town now, so I'm on my own to draw my own template (semi-successfully). Construction's the same, that is, cherry sides with windows and doors punched out and window inserts added from the back. The only difference is that the windows now have a vertical mullion. Otherwise all is the same. I make a first stab at the windows which then needs some cleaning up (some basic re-sizing!). To help I have a "plug" the size of the opening and a corner punch from Micro-Mark.
  2. TBlack
    Cap't Bob, The picture you have included is from post 1905 when Vinal Haven was lengthened to 115 feet. Notice that the number of windows in the forward part of the main cabin is significantly more than the version I'm modelling. But there were several alterations to the 100 foot boat prior to the 1905 rebuild. Look at these 3 photos displayed in chronological order. The easiest difference to pick out is the moving of the crew quarters from the freight deck to the bow. Notice in the first picture that there is a smoke stack coming up in fron of the life boat; it originates down in the main deck cabin. Notice also that the door is always open and includes a porthole.In the third picture the smokestack is gone from the cabin and now sits in the bow. The door is closed and the porthole gone. And portholes now appear in the hull in the bow. I guess they needed more room for freight. But also notice the ladder that goes up alongside the pilot house to the 02 level. There's a door into the pilot house right behind the ladder that couldn't possibly open, so the ladder must have been an afterthought. John, I'll have to take a closer look at that line-up. It may be that my Charlie Noble is no more than a ventilator, although the stack goes all the way down to about a foot off the deck before entering the salon. That's what led me to believe it was for a stove. Tom
  3. TBlack
    Michael, Charlie Noble was a British seaman, merchant marine I think, who was either in the galley as a cook or a concerned officer who always wanted the stove pipe polished. Consequently, the Charlie Noble is the stovepipe. Cap't Bob, I cannot figure out the shape of the top on that stove pipe; I'm going to have to wing it.
  4. TBlack
    What the heck is that thing! It either belongs over in the Name the Ship game or in a monster movie! Anyway, I'm moving forward along the 01 level and dealing with the salon. Nothing really difficult here and pretty straightforward, but I have to develop the plan. If you recall my approach to the main deck cabin, I used my brother, the architect, and his CAD program to develop the cabin sides. But he's out of town now and I'm on my own to hand draw the sides. One of the side benefits of building from photographs is the detail that keeps cropping up as I investigate more fully. The Charlie Noble that I've circled in the first photo, somehow just appeared. Notice that it has a "fence" around it in that photo, but in the next photo it doesn't (it's just forward of the lifeboat).
  5. TBlack
    Peter, that was a marvelous demonstration and beautifully described. We also got a glimpse of some fine model work in the background. I like the look of the deck and the color of the mast! I'm gathering that the secret here is the lacquer that keeps the line "tame" and in place while additional coils are being added. But I also learned about the toothpick tool; gotta have one! Tom
  6. TBlack
    Michael, It surely would be a hoot (especially from a steam whistle!), but I'd never be able to get it out of my basement! Tom
  7. TBlack
    Now all I need is a rather large woman in a floppy hat to complete the picture!
  8. TBlack
    John, Thanks for the encouragement. Here's the final product:
  9. TBlack
    The bench at the aft end of the 01 level looks pretty straightforward from the photo. There is no back to it and the legs look straight, and white. I decided to make it out of apple, just because I have a lot of it and it finishes to a nice golden hue. What I did was to make a "mould" that replicates the curve around the stern; slice up some slats; and make some spacers out of basswood. I tried assembling the whole thing all at one time. Too complicated; pieces flew in all directions. I realized there were too many moving parts. To minimize that I'm tackling one section at a time. So, I put the spacers in at the end and glue the first cross piece; let the glue dry and move the spacers around to the next cross piece and so on around the curve (I hope!).
  10. TBlack
    Snowmans (does this refer to winter weather or is this about women?), A lot of this bending stuff depends on the wood you're using and how thick it is. But to your question, I've found that if you soak a wood like cherry for too long it will change the color of the wood (it gets lighter and grayer). I can't imagine that it would take a whole day for the water to do its thing. You might try shortening the soak time and see how pliable the wood is. Tom
  11. TBlack
    Popeye, It has to be like that to keep the traplines from fouling as the traps go back over the side off the stern. Notice also that there are no cleats on deck aft for the same reason. Tom
  12. TBlack
    Thanks, John. I appreciate the comment. Next up is a U shaped bench at the back end of the 01 level. It should be more fun to build. Tom
  13. TBlack
    For better or for worse, I finished the railing around the 01 level. I laid out the railing on the 01 deck to get the joints and curves properly aligned. Next I put stanchions in place around the deck. The next step took some education on my part, but it turned out that the best way to install the railing onto the stanchions was to take one of the sections of the railing (there are 7 sections all the way around), attach stanchions only at the end points and let the ones in between fall where they may. That process insures that the stanchions will be vertical and parallel. The railing is cherry, the stanchions are Evergreen styrene rod (.040), and the nipples are Evergreen tubing. That hole in the decking at the forward end of the 01 level is where the pilot house goes. Tom
  14. TBlack
    Jim, I know that you don't have the opportunity to add to your log, and good luck with your move and the relocation of the boatyard. I just went through the process (downsizing) which, for us, took a whole year. Anyway, I hope you monitor this site regularly, because, as you know, today is your day...happy birthday! Tom
  15. TBlack
    I haven't made an entry here in a couple of weeks. I'm struggling with the railing that goes around the 01 level and I'm not ready to show you any results yet, but rest assured it's been a process. I'll share with you later. In the meantime, I thought I'd show you how I came to decide on dimensions for the layout of the superstructure. I have been working off the profile picture which is back on page one of this log and is actually 10'X14", so shows some detail. There's a man standing up by the pilot house and I gave him a 6 foot height. Also, from the hull plan that I do have, I know the height of the bulwark. Using those two dimensions I've been able to determine relative sizes of cabins, doors and windows. It's not been 100% perfect, but it has been 95%. By that I mean I can draw in windows and doors and copare the result to the photograph. All I've had to do is tweek the plan a bit to look like the photo. My 01 layout, which is basically the passenger salon, the pilot house and the stack I've drawn as shown in the accompanying photo. I'm not sure you can see the detail very well, but I've just laid tracing paper over the hull plan and drawn in the cabin layout, leaving room for the stack in between. Then I compare that to the profile photo of the boat for accuracy. Tom
  16. TBlack
    I think this is another example of: Are we building history or are we creating art? There is no wrong answer. Andy said it best," It's your build; do it as you see best." TB
  17. TBlack
    Jay, Thanks for the additional information. I can see where with a more complicated molding the aluminum bar as guide would be necessary. What I did with my simple double bead was to file a slot the width and depth of the molding piece into the edge of the razor and at the bottom of that slot put in the two half-rounds. The blade then fits over the wooden strip and is prevented from moving sideways. BTW, great website; looks like you have a lot of fun! Tom
  18. TBlack
    You see what I mean? The lathe idea is a great one and didn't cost me anything! Damn, this is a good place to be! I'll try that. Also, Brian was asking about pre-made moldings. In the US, actually not far from my house, we have Northeast Scale Models (www.nesm.com); take a look. Tom
  19. TBlack
    Dear Philo, Your question implies that you're planking a hull, so I'm assuming a certain size of your wood. With respect to Fish's comment, I don't bother to boil the water with basswood. But like Fish, I find that with basswood about 20 minutes does the trick. If you're using hardwood, a longer soak is necessaryand perhaps the application of heat to assist in bending. In any event I've found, just as you suggest, that to place the water-logged plank in place and let it dry and then glue in place works great. And actually, if you are using CA, it benefits if the wood is a little wet. Tom
  20. TBlack
    Dave, It was, in fact, Alex's build log where I saw the technique first. And Mark has included a link to Colin's post in the "wooden tips and tricks" section. Both gentlemen use the same technique and are obviously quite adept at using a dremel in tight spaces. And that's the key; that and making sure the slot in the razor blade is the exact width of the scraped plank. The scraping part is actually duck soup. Dave and Mark, thanks for the "heads up". Tom
  21. TBlack
    Popeye, I think somebody pointed this out in the previous log, but the picture of the trap with the lobsters in it shows the lobsters already cooked....Maine's version of fast food? TB
  22. TBlack
    I'm just envious of your talent, thanks. TB
  23. TBlack
    I did my best, but I'm not yet able to figure out how to get a more intricate shape to the molding than a basic double bead. The photo of the blade shows a cut that is 3/32" wide and the result is along the cabin top in the other photo.
  24. TBlack
    Steve, Thanks for that explanation. Your foredeck is mahogany, so does that mean that you will use a filler up there? TB
  25. TBlack
    Steve, Nice work on this which prompts two questions. The cord caulking turned out great, but I didn't quite understand why the limewood approach didn't work for you. Some years ago I was faced with the same issue and used the limewood approach and I don't recall that I had any problems (see photo). The other question that I had is how do you get such a beautiful glass-like finish to the wood? Tom

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