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TBlack

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  1. As to the tops, we are blessed that there are templates to start from: We punch out the center squares and use those to make identical squares, except 1/8" thick and glue them to a backboard: Next comes the planking, but for later, because it's my bedtime now! Tom
  2. Got the trees assembled. A little black paint next, but my focus is on the tops. I'm going to depart from the kit here. I followed Longridge, page 171, in building tops for my 1:96 scale version of Sphynx which turned out great. They are built up from individual planks, and not too difficult especially now at 1:64. I'll document it.
  3. Yes, Ian, just dropped in for the color comparison. I'll make the bowsprit out of the cherry as well so all will match, hopefully. Tom
  4. Keith, Thanks for the support. I think you can see from the photo that, color-wise, the mast matches the rest of the wood on the ship. Whereas, the bowsprit, which is in the kit supplied wood, is a little off. Glad I went the way I did.
  5. Must be cold and windy in Manitoba about now, Anyway, back to my masts: after due consideration, I’ve decided to make them out of the cherry dowels that I have on hand. Making them out of pear would have required that I first repair my 55 year old Rockwell Delta 9” table saw, and then borrow the use of a friend’s wood working lathe. All of that was getting too complicated for a minor color difference. I’ve sized the two masts and will put in the flats this afternoon. Tom
  6. So, Keith, I see we have an Uncle Bob (knocklouder) in Manitoba who, hopefully, is over his sickness and back on to Pegasus, mice notwithstanding. And, Bob, welcome to the family! Tom
  7. On pages 98-101 of my edition of the book bo'sun mate Mowett is explaining to Stephen Maturin the various masts of Sophie. He states that the main mast is 56 feet long. In 1:64 scale that's 10.5". Chris has the mast of Speedy at just under 10": OK close enough. The foremast, according to Mowett is 49 feet, or 9.2". Chris has it at just under 9, again close enough. For mast material I'm at a quandary. Here is a comparison of what is in the kit vs. a cherry dowel: The picture doesn't really show the difference, but the kit supplied dowel has a gray tint to it while the cherry is a reddish brown. What are mast supposed to look like? I just noticed that in Ron Neilson's build of Camilla, he uses Swiss pear for his masts. I might try that as well. Tom
  8. Now I've completed the helm and on to the spars and/or boats. For boats it will be a 12' jolly boat, an 18' cutter and a 24' launch. I'm going to take a shortcut and buy the resin hulls, just doing the finish out.
  9. Well, I'm getting there. This is not as good as Alan O'Neil's (which is the same scale), but as close as I'm going to get (I think this is the 8th attempt!).
  10. Keith, it may not be exciting to you, but I find it very exciting...what a beautiful shape! She's looong! Tom
  11. Yes, Keith, and happy new year to you too. You made it about 5 hours sooner than those of us across the pond! Tom
  12. Keith, I learned a lot from your approach to Altair. Can't wait to see the slotting sled! Tom
  13. Keith, If you had a 1/16" end mill, would that be more accurate in cutting the slots than doing it on the saw? Tom
  14. Rich, I figured that a wheel is about 2-3" thick, which in my scale is about 1 mm. I can't get that small and have room for spokes. My spoke grooves are 1/32" square, so the total thickness will come out to something like what you are suggesting (2.5mm), depending on how fine I can sand the rim. BTW, I had been trying to get to the thin size, using my end mill. Too brutal. Your suggestion of sanding to final shape is the way to go. Tom P.S. Do you have a brand of cigar you can recommend? Mine don't have the cedar separator.
  15. Rich, Your wheel looks spectacular @ 1:48. Mine is 1:64, 75% of your size which means the rim of the wheel has to be 1/32" square, and I can't get the wood down that fine on either the lathe or the milling machine without it tearing up.
  16. Brief up-date: still working on the wheel, following Ed Tosti's instructions from Naiad. I can get to this step, no problem: Then he has me cutting off a cap and setting it aside, so I can make slits for the spokes; again, no problem: Then I cement the cap back on and hollow out between the wheel's rim and the center hub. And here is where lies the problem which is the same as with the previous (4th) attempt: As you can see, the rim (1.5mm wide) keeps getting torn up. The 4th attempt, above was in the mill, while this one was in the lathe. Unless someone has a brilliant idea, I'm giving up and buying a wheel. I've spent too much time on this and I need to move on.
  17. And presumably you will be making the slots the same as you did Altair? Tom
  18. Bruce, the pages on my edition don't match yours. I have found the "man overboard" incident on page 285, but I cannot find the reference to the launch and cutter. Additionally, a jolly boat is about the same size as a cutter; could they be one and the same?
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