JPZ66

It really all depends on what the metal is.... I used to cast pewter parts, and it was maleable enough in smaller diameters that it could in fact be bent or straightened in many cases....stanchions, gun barrels, etc. As the thickness becomes greater, it becomes much more difficult. Heat, is not likely to help the cast metal part, and may possibly melt it ! Some casting metals have a low melt temp.
 
It may also be possible, depending on just what the part is, to hammer it using a jewelers hammer and anvil. Sometimes you may want to use a piece of hardwood against the part, and strike that with the hammer. If you think the part may be a loss, you may as well try some experiments !
 
-Joe
 
PS- often times, if the metal was cast at too high a temperature, it will become too brittle and there really isn't much you can do.

Hi all,
 
I have found a 3d sculptor to work with and am currently running some test output on an SLA / 3d printer. Currently the test figure shown here is being done in 28mm, but can be scaled up or down a bit fairly easily. The goal in this project is to create several limes of figures in a few scales ( covering 1/60 - 1/48 range ) initially and that they be in "action" poses, not simply standing around. The figures will be prototyped with 3d printing, molded, and then cast in either resin or pewter. These will be officer and crew figures of the 18th and 19th century period.
 
- Joe

Ok...last photos of this guy...I took 15 min to splash a little color on him...

Ok, so I picked up a few prints and after a quick trimmimg of supports and no further clean up....... Here is the test 28mm figure ( 32mm and 35mm coming later this week ) The detail is quite good, rather hard to see here, and perhaps I will try an ink wash to show the recesses a bit better.
 
-Joe

Would anyone be interested in a detailed tutorial on Resin Casting ? Both 1 pc and 2 pc mold making ? If there is enough interest I will pull some equipment out and put something together.
 
- Joe

Ok,
 
I will order some fresh materials and put something together. I will use some small ship parts of course !
 
In the photo from Chuck, you can see an example of 'bottom feed'....pour the resin into the fill port and it goes down, over and then comes up to fill the mold cavity....this allows air to escape, rather than pouring direct and trapping air in the process. It is an example of the best method, in my opinion ....you will use a bit more rubber when making a mold this way, but you have a much better chance for success. Anyhow, I will be happy to expand on the process and will submit a tutorial to Chuck in the very near future.
 
-Joe

Hi Mark,
 
Yes, I've read the articles you mentioned....nothing wrong with them, and of course there are a number of ways one can go about creating molds and castings.....
 
I do think there are some areas that can can be improved upon however. Over the years of my experience with molding and casting I have learned a few tips and tricks, and I think that in the near future I will write up another guide showing some different methods and send that to the administrators for their review.
 
There are many different formulas out there for use in mold making, and a few options for casting resins as well. Setting a master or masters on a proper clay bed, and preforming the fill channel and even the vent channels ( as I like to do ) will also save on RTV mold material, reduce any cutting ( cutting the molds will decrease their usable life ) and presetting the dimples or aligning pins will also make a difference. There are also some alternatives for how the mold cavity is filled...direct pour ( from the top feed channel or indirect, by feeding the cavity from the bottom.....there is also the matter of clamping the mold shut - and doing so without creating distortion. Or, if necessary, creating a shell or "mother mold".
 
In the end, I just want to help other modelers out there to get the best results with the least amount of problems possible. I do not propose to be an expert, but having done production castings for quite a few cottage industry companies in the past, I have been down the trial and error road many times and I can possibly save some folks from wasting time and money and reducing the learning curve.
 
-Joe

Pewter or other formulas of white metal are best cast in vulcanized rubber molds on a centrifugal casting machine. This process will yield high quality, crisp detailed castings. Not to say you can't do it with gravity pouring, low temp metal into quality RTV silicone molds, but is a lot harder to get fine details. Brass is a different animal.
 
Do the parts have to be metal ? Well detailed castings can be made at home much easier with low viscosity casting resins in RTV silicone molds.
 
Once painted and installed, only the builder will know what the details are made from.
 
- Joe

Walton,
 
I am talking about a Centrifugal casting machine that spins a 9" or 12" circular mold....it is absolutely designed for production work. No, it is not for the typical "home hobbyist". It is THE way to cast pewter for production of small model parts. This not the "broken arm" type centrifuge. 
 
When I was casting small model ship parts, say, 20mm deck guns in 1/350 scale, I could easily get 100 parts per spin in a 9" mold. A spin cycle takes about 2-3 min.
 
My spin casting machine sits right next to a melting furnace crucible pot that holds 150 lbs of pewter. I have other equipment for investment casting. 
 
Joe

Walton,
 
I am talking about a Centrifugal casting machine that spins a 9" or 12" circular mold....it is absolutely designed for production work. No, it is not for the typical "home hobbyist". It is THE way to cast pewter for production of small model parts. This not the "broken arm" type centrifuge. 
 
When I was casting small model ship parts, say, 20mm deck guns in 1/350 scale, I could easily get 100 parts per spin in a 9" mold. A spin cycle takes about 2-3 min.
 
My spin casting machine sits right next to a melting furnace crucible pot that holds 150 lbs of pewter. I have other equipment for investment casting. 
 
Joe

Walton,
 
I am talking about a Centrifugal casting machine that spins a 9" or 12" circular mold....it is absolutely designed for production work. No, it is not for the typical "home hobbyist". It is THE way to cast pewter for production of small model parts. This not the "broken arm" type centrifuge. 
 
When I was casting small model ship parts, say, 20mm deck guns in 1/350 scale, I could easily get 100 parts per spin in a 9" mold. A spin cycle takes about 2-3 min.
 
My spin casting machine sits right next to a melting furnace crucible pot that holds 150 lbs of pewter. I have other equipment for investment casting. 
 
Joe

Walton,
 
I am talking about a Centrifugal casting machine that spins a 9" or 12" circular mold....it is absolutely designed for production work. No, it is not for the typical "home hobbyist". It is THE way to cast pewter for production of small model parts. This not the "broken arm" type centrifuge. 
 
When I was casting small model ship parts, say, 20mm deck guns in 1/350 scale, I could easily get 100 parts per spin in a 9" mold. A spin cycle takes about 2-3 min.
 
My spin casting machine sits right next to a melting furnace crucible pot that holds 150 lbs of pewter. I have other equipment for investment casting. 
 
Joe

If you wish to cast anything visit and explore this site. I have used their product 320 resin for pressure casting 1/16 engine parts. As with anything you need the correct materials and tools and most of all a good master. RTV silicone can pick up a fingerprint in a mold. Also printed master parts will have the stepped texture that will require finishing versus metal masters that will have a smooth finish.
https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/
 
 
The parts below were pressure pot cast with the 320 resin hand poured into silicone molds. The US penny will give you a sense of scale.

 

 

 
 

Ok...last photos of this guy...I took 15 min to splash a little color on him...

Just a quick note.....we have been making some fine tuning adjustments on the 3D printer, and the test figure is more sharply defined. Additionally, we have done output in 32mm, 35mm and 54mm. In 54mm, you can even see the wood grain in the axe handle quite nicely ! We are going to run some tests on even smaller scales soon as well.
 
Aardvark Miniatures, LLC should be releasing some of the first figures at the beginning of 2017.
 
-Joe

Just a quick note.....we have been making some fine tuning adjustments on the 3D printer, and the test figure is more sharply defined. Additionally, we have done output in 32mm, 35mm and 54mm. In 54mm, you can even see the wood grain in the axe handle quite nicely ! We are going to run some tests on even smaller scales soon as well.
 
Aardvark Miniatures, LLC should be releasing some of the first figures at the beginning of 2017.
 
-Joe

Just a quick note.....we have been making some fine tuning adjustments on the 3D printer, and the test figure is more sharply defined. Additionally, we have done output in 32mm, 35mm and 54mm. In 54mm, you can even see the wood grain in the axe handle quite nicely ! We are going to run some tests on even smaller scales soon as well.
 
Aardvark Miniatures, LLC should be releasing some of the first figures at the beginning of 2017.
 
-Joe

Just a quick note.....we have been making some fine tuning adjustments on the 3D printer, and the test figure is more sharply defined. Additionally, we have done output in 32mm, 35mm and 54mm. In 54mm, you can even see the wood grain in the axe handle quite nicely ! We are going to run some tests on even smaller scales soon as well.
 
Aardvark Miniatures, LLC should be releasing some of the first figures at the beginning of 2017.
 
-Joe

Just a quick note.....we have been making some fine tuning adjustments on the 3D printer, and the test figure is more sharply defined. Additionally, we have done output in 32mm, 35mm and 54mm. In 54mm, you can even see the wood grain in the axe handle quite nicely ! We are going to run some tests on even smaller scales soon as well.
 
Aardvark Miniatures, LLC should be releasing some of the first figures at the beginning of 2017.
 
-Joe

Just a quick note.....we have been making some fine tuning adjustments on the 3D printer, and the test figure is more sharply defined. Additionally, we have done output in 32mm, 35mm and 54mm. In 54mm, you can even see the wood grain in the axe handle quite nicely ! We are going to run some tests on even smaller scales soon as well.
 
Aardvark Miniatures, LLC should be releasing some of the first figures at the beginning of 2017.
 
-Joe

The next figure I'm working up is going to be a crewman in rowing pose ( actually, going to create a couple different, but similar poses / dress for this )
Expect an update in a few weeks on this one.
Also, I should have the 35mm figure back in a day or so to inspect. That will work nicely for 1/50-1/48 scale.
 
Thanks all,
 
Joe

The next figure I'm working up is going to be a crewman in rowing pose ( actually, going to create a couple different, but similar poses / dress for this )
Expect an update in a few weeks on this one.
Also, I should have the 35mm figure back in a day or so to inspect. That will work nicely for 1/50-1/48 scale.
 
Thanks all,
 
Joe

Ok...last photos of this guy...I took 15 min to splash a little color on him...

Actually, the proportions of most wargames figures are for ease of painting...notice how often you see heavy layers and oversized details on uniforms? ..they do also like to have beefy weapons to help against breakage though and to make the castings a bit easier to produce....I'm told...though I find that to be an excuse. As such, they tend to "swell" the figure to match. I call them caracatures. Sadly it is the accepted 'standard' there.
 
My goal with these is to keep them on the more proportioned and realistic side as much as possible. ( understand that the digital sculptor I'm working with comes from the gaming side of things It is another reason why I value the feedback on the figures when I post pictures. I prefer the scale aesthetic.
 
Thanks,
Joe

Ok...last photos of this guy...I took 15 min to splash a little color on him...