Mike Dowling
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Everything posted by Mike Dowling
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I am doing the Occre kit as well, with I hope, full lighting!! So I shall keep watching yours so that you can make all the mistakes first!!
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What I have done before is to sand the hull leaving the dust on it and then paint it with sanding sealer across, not along the planks which brushes the sawdust into any small gaps. It is the easy enough to gently sand the whole hull again with fine sandpaper. Works well for me.
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Did you have to cut the upper bulwark shorter at the stern? Mine seem far too long.
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Hello again and thank you for your reply to my PM. The reason I didn't ask you in your main log was because I thought my question related to a very early point in your build rather than being an up to date one. Anyway with relation to the bulwarks, did you find they sat slightly below deck level at the sides? And how did you glue them? Did you use CA or PVA and di you put them on wet or dry? A lot of questions I'm afraid.
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Finding miniature bolts
Mike Dowling replied to Mark m's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Try prime-minatures.co.uk they do tiny nots and bolts. -
I absolutely agree about the glue. I have always used pva with maybe a dab of ca at the bow just to hold it. Contact glue is ghastly stuff! Always goes where you don't want it and a real problem to remove. My six penny contribution for what it's worth.
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Very good, you certainly have not lost your touch!
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It's not that bad!! I remember when I first started how encouraging you were to me and it's no worse than mine was.
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No matey! I am now guessing that there is some king of attachment on one side of the sanding discs?
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No, not that bit! The bit behind the sanding discs.
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You are quite right Jeff, I have just looked at mine again and it does run parallel with the centre line of the ship not angled right or left.
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I think he means that the bowsprit is at the side of the foremast, not central on the hull. When I made mine I assumed the bowsprit came across from its seating in line with the figurehead.
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Many thanks for the link. I found the mandrell attachment and the discs but not the flexible attachment. Help!!
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Well, greetings after a very long abscence!!! Good to find you back again. I shall be watching you!!! What actually is the dremel sandy thingy that you have found. It look good and I might want one too.
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I am currently building the same model and I simply have no idea how you managed to bend that curve in the wale at the stern. I have done a lot of bending before but this one is just defeating me. I know it is one huge lateral bend but the wood I have is just splitting. Any suggestions/advice?
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Does anyone have any experience or know how you can anneal castings ? I am thinking particularly of the metal that goes from the bow of the ship and curves to the hull.
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I built this model while ago. Not sure whether it was before mamoli was taken over or not. The only criticism I had was the stantions of which there are a lot were made from a flat sheet of brass which was horrible. I bought replacements for these and was very glad I did. It would have looked dreadful otherwise.
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Absolutely wonderful, I wish I were that skilled.
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That is very sad news. My sincere condolences to his family. A truly gifted man and always willing to help. His wonderful models will be a lasting legacy and will be appreciated by many, many people. Our hobby will miss a very clever gentleman.
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Where can I find metal wire?
Mike Dowling replied to flying_dutchman2's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Maybe I'm a peasant but I have managed to buy wire of various gauges in copper and steel from ebay with no problem at all, other than the fact that it all comes from China like everything else! -
A word of advice if I may. Don't glue your launch or base just yet or you will have a really difficult job getting your rigging to belaying and other points.
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I don't know if this is of any help but, for gluing fiddly bits like tiles and windows I use Microscale Micro Kristal Klear. Whilst I think folk use it for making windows I have not had much success but, for sticking acetate sheet to window frames and small metal pieces on various parts it is brilliant. It dries clear but glossy but unlike CA it stays flexible for long enough to allow 'fiddling' and adjustment. It is obtainable through Amazon. Might be worth a go with your tiles and it is easy to clean up with just water.
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Just a hint - you would be wise not to stick your lifeboat and platform down just yet. Wait until you have done your rigging or you will never get to the belaying points with it in the way.
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That is a lovely job on the cannon rigging. It doesn't look out of scale, one of the best I have seen.
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It would be interesting to know what opinions members have as to the besy wood for the second layer of planking on a hull are.
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