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ChrisLBren
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Posts
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM
Yikes sorry to hear Ben - hopefully you can salvage and rebuild the elements that are warped.
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Martin W in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM
Yikes sorry to hear Ben - hopefully you can salvage and rebuild the elements that are warped.
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Canute in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM
Yikes sorry to hear Ben - hopefully you can salvage and rebuild the elements that are warped.
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ChrisLBren reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24
the oven will be completed only with next upper deck
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Wishmaster in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale
She's back on the bench - continuing the channels and chainplates. No more guarantees when she will be completed - maybe sooner than later ?!?
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Canute in Pure Tung Oil refuses to dry in 10 days - what to do?
Id use a type of wool - super fine steel wool - or even brass wool - which I hear doesn't shred as much in between your two coats. Your first coat of 50/50 will absorb pretty well. Not sure if you decided to sand off the earlier coats though - so not sure what the effect may be.
I'd leave your second 100 percent strength Tung Oil as is. As Gaetan says - do not let the full oil sit on the piece more than 15 minutes before removing and watch for seepage.
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from mtaylor in Pure Tung Oil refuses to dry in 10 days - what to do?
Id use a type of wool - super fine steel wool - or even brass wool - which I hear doesn't shred as much in between your two coats. Your first coat of 50/50 will absorb pretty well. Not sure if you decided to sand off the earlier coats though - so not sure what the effect may be.
I'd leave your second 100 percent strength Tung Oil as is. As Gaetan says - do not let the full oil sit on the piece more than 15 minutes before removing and watch for seepage.
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ChrisLBren reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Hello,
Tom,Ed and Druxey,
many thanks for the nice comments,
and to all others for the Likes.
The cutter are nearing completion.
Meanwhile, the backboards were made and fitted.
It still lacks rudder.
Soon I will start with the last boat for the French corvette, the gig.
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Canute in Pure Tung Oil refuses to dry in 10 days - what to do?
I think Dan is spot on here - you want to remove that excess oil that is not drying
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Canute in Pure Tung Oil refuses to dry in 10 days - what to do?
Im not sure if putting more oil on right now is going to help your problem even if its diluted. (which is for a first coat only). Id leave it alone and let it gas off - it will eventually dry. If you're in more of a hurry - maybe sand off the oil and start over ?
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from mtaylor in Pure Tung Oil refuses to dry in 10 days - what to do?
I think Dan is spot on here - you want to remove that excess oil that is not drying
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from mtaylor in Pure Tung Oil refuses to dry in 10 days - what to do?
Im not sure if putting more oil on right now is going to help your problem even if its diluted. (which is for a first coat only). Id leave it alone and let it gas off - it will eventually dry. If you're in more of a hurry - maybe sand off the oil and start over ?
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Mike Y in Pure Tung Oil refuses to dry in 10 days - what to do?
I think Dan is spot on here - you want to remove that excess oil that is not drying
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Mike Y in Pure Tung Oil refuses to dry in 10 days - what to do?
Im not sure if putting more oil on right now is going to help your problem even if its diluted. (which is for a first coat only). Id leave it alone and let it gas off - it will eventually dry. If you're in more of a hurry - maybe sand off the oil and start over ?
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Canute in Pure Tung Oil refuses to dry in 10 days - what to do?
Hey Mike,
The proper way to apply pure Tung Oil is 50/50 cut with Mineral Spirits for your first coat. Let that dry 24 hours which lays your base for uniform penetration. Then you apply full strength - let it sit for 15 minutes or so before buffing out. Continue to monitor for seepage and always allow 24 hours between coats.
It sounds like you should just let the piece gas out - applying Danish Oil on top could compound your problem. Hope this helps
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Mike Y in Pure Tung Oil refuses to dry in 10 days - what to do?
Hey Mike,
The proper way to apply pure Tung Oil is 50/50 cut with Mineral Spirits for your first coat. Let that dry 24 hours which lays your base for uniform penetration. Then you apply full strength - let it sit for 15 minutes or so before buffing out. Continue to monitor for seepage and always allow 24 hours between coats.
It sounds like you should just let the piece gas out - applying Danish Oil on top could compound your problem. Hope this helps
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from mtaylor in Pure Tung Oil refuses to dry in 10 days - what to do?
Hey Mike,
The proper way to apply pure Tung Oil is 50/50 cut with Mineral Spirits for your first coat. Let that dry 24 hours which lays your base for uniform penetration. Then you apply full strength - let it sit for 15 minutes or so before buffing out. Continue to monitor for seepage and always allow 24 hours between coats.
It sounds like you should just let the piece gas out - applying Danish Oil on top could compound your problem. Hope this helps
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale
She's back on the bench - continuing the channels and chainplates. No more guarantees when she will be completed - maybe sooner than later ?!?
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from robin b in Pure Tung Oil refuses to dry in 10 days - what to do?
Hey Mike,
The proper way to apply pure Tung Oil is 50/50 cut with Mineral Spirits for your first coat. Let that dry 24 hours which lays your base for uniform penetration. Then you apply full strength - let it sit for 15 minutes or so before buffing out. Continue to monitor for seepage and always allow 24 hours between coats.
It sounds like you should just let the piece gas out - applying Danish Oil on top could compound your problem. Hope this helps
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Captain Poison in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale
At last the Shipyard re opens (well not the permanent one). After getting estimates of building out my new workshop - I've decided to put that off until next year. We have more pressing priorities with the house.
So I made a trip to Home Depot - bought a great new tool chest that locks (which is great for child proofing) and a desk from Ikea and have set up shop in my library/office. I've also dusted her off and cleaned her up. Most of the messy parts of Confederacy are finished - all thats left is finishing the head rails, channels and deadeyes, and stump masts/anchors. I can always go saw in the garage if needed
I'm a bit stuck on the headrails - the forward most timber is proving to be a bear. So I may finish up the channels and deadeyes so I can glue all of the gunport lids (these guys get knocked around easily) and then revisit the head.
Im going on 6 years into this build as of end of November - really hoping to wrap it up this year.
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Dubz in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale
She's back on the bench - continuing the channels and chainplates. No more guarantees when she will be completed - maybe sooner than later ?!?
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from Wishmaster in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale
Finger still hurts a bit a week later but my model related injury hasn't stopped me ! Finishing Confederacy by year end or bust.....
Update - the foremast channels are installed. I chose to paint Chucks nice boxwood deadeyes with Tamiya Flat Black paint. If I use paint/dye again on my next model (which Im leaning more to a "Belgian school" approach of all Pear) I will not bother with Fiebings dye - Tamiya flat black with an overcoat of Watcos Danish Oil looks as good as Fiebings with far less trouble in application.
This is may be my last build at this scale - thanks to a photo etch set from Model Expo Ive been able to realize the chainplate assemblies - soldering them this small would be a serious pain - kudos to you Rusty !
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from tlevine in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale
She's back on the bench - continuing the channels and chainplates. No more guarantees when she will be completed - maybe sooner than later ?!?
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ChrisLBren got a reaction from archjofo in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale
She's back on the bench - continuing the channels and chainplates. No more guarantees when she will be completed - maybe sooner than later ?!?
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