ChrisLBren

Thanks Ben, Rusty and Mark - here are the updated photos.  I will be adding the channels next in boxwood and dye their inverted knees with Fiebings black leather dye.  I will scratch the deadeye strops and chain plate assemblies (hoping to get a torch for Xmas), then its finishing the head rails and adding the stump masts/anchors and mounting her to a display board.  
 
Yancovitch - I did not simulate caulking on the hull planking - not really a fan of that look - and most museum models do not show this detail.  You can see from the photos that the Tung Oil finish I used did accentuate the lines of the planking slightly - which was the effect I wanted. I  used a number 2 pencil to simulate caulking for the deck planking.  As far as treenailing - at this scale i didn't want to bother with it - I do think think the drilling and saw dust method would work well though if you want to go for it.  All planks were glued to each other and the bulkheads to try to get as tight of a result as possible.  Hope that helps - and thanks for the kind words!
 
Happy Thanksgiving !
Chris

Thanks for all the likes and nice comments.
Two more frame pairs were added aft and now I have switched back to the forward framing.
 
Ben

Thanks Ben, Rusty and Mark - here are the updated photos.  I will be adding the channels next in boxwood and dye their inverted knees with Fiebings black leather dye.  I will scratch the deadeye strops and chain plate assemblies (hoping to get a torch for Xmas), then its finishing the head rails and adding the stump masts/anchors and mounting her to a display board.  
 
Yancovitch - I did not simulate caulking on the hull planking - not really a fan of that look - and most museum models do not show this detail.  You can see from the photos that the Tung Oil finish I used did accentuate the lines of the planking slightly - which was the effect I wanted. I  used a number 2 pencil to simulate caulking for the deck planking.  As far as treenailing - at this scale i didn't want to bother with it - I do think think the drilling and saw dust method would work well though if you want to go for it.  All planks were glued to each other and the bulkheads to try to get as tight of a result as possible.  Hope that helps - and thanks for the kind words!
 
Happy Thanksgiving !
Chris

Fenders installed - gun port lids just about finished - photos in next couple days.  All I have left on this one is the channels/deadeyes and wrapping up the head rails.  Five years into this build as of Thanksgiving....

Hey Group,
 
Still plugging away on the fenders and I'm about finished with them - photos soon.  
 
I'm considering finishing the WVH - she has sentimental value to me.  The first step would be to sand off the wipe on poly - paint the hull tallow below the waterline, and apply my tung oil/ bitumen mix to age the planking that will be not painted. 
 
I've changed my mind so many times about my next project - so who knows (smile). 
 
Chris

I'm still working and not just daydreaming about my next project.  Chesstree installed - bit of glare as the tung oil dries - hoping to tackle the fenders and ladders next

Hey Group,
 
Still plugging away on the fenders and I'm about finished with them - photos soon.  
 
I'm considering finishing the WVH - she has sentimental value to me.  The first step would be to sand off the wipe on poly - paint the hull tallow below the waterline, and apply my tung oil/ bitumen mix to age the planking that will be not painted. 
 
I've changed my mind so many times about my next project - so who knows (smile). 
 
Chris

An update !  Ive committed to setting aside an hour a night 5 days a week - and Ive added the fenders and ships ladder. The fenders were tricky to get right - I used an old planking iron to get the correct bend to fit flush with the hull.  
 
After i add the channels, I suppose i need to start thinking about some sort of stand - open to suggestions - Im bummed i didn't predrill the keel to accept rods so i can use brass pedestals. 
 
 

I guess it's almost time to have the quartermaster roll out the appropriate barrel as a toast in the offing.

Thanks for the feedback everyone - my first preference is to do brass pedestals on an ebony stained display board.  I think it can be done - Ill just need an assistant to hold the ship steady on the work table while its partially off its building board.  Ill have to duck under the table and drill each hole in the keel from the underside with a pin vise.  
 
I've ripped out the fenders and am re working them - i wasn't happy with the angle on the hull and one of them got a bit blotched by some Fiebings dye at the rail on a touch up.  I'm going on 5 years now on this build - might as well not compromise now. i have built a jig on my vise to make bending these parts easy and hope to have both sides wrapped up and on to gunport lids after Labor Day.

Fenders installed - gun port lids just about finished - photos in next couple days.  All I have left on this one is the channels/deadeyes and wrapping up the head rails.  Five years into this build as of Thanksgiving....

Fenders installed - gun port lids just about finished - photos in next couple days.  All I have left on this one is the channels/deadeyes and wrapping up the head rails.  Five years into this build as of Thanksgiving....

Hi Everyone. Thanks for the comments and likes.
 
Sorry for the delay getting back to you all. My PC's hard drive started failing and had to take her to the doctor.
 
During that time I was able to complete the startboard side planking, sanded it down and applied one coat of
wipe on poly. The good news is that I was successful in doing it without any drop planks or steelers. The bad
news is after sanding it a few joints aren't as tight as I would have liked.
 
All in all I'm happy with my first attempt at this type of planking. Hopefully the next one will be better
and the planks a little more uniform.
 

 
Well I'm off to the port side to start the last two bands of planking.

Hi all
this is the opening of my shipyard for building this little ship. Well... maybe little in the real world, because due to the scale the complete model will be longer than 1 meter, so quite huge for normal standards (I mean the standard size of Italian houses).
 
An explanation about the title of this topic: ‘Brick de 24’ is the name of a class of ships, brigs type, whose main weapons were 24pdr carronades, in the number of 14. Other weapons were two 6pdr long guns.
They were designed (most of them) by the master designer Pestel and built between 1806 and 1813.
 
Many more information can be read here:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7795-brick-de-24-by-jackaubrey-148-scale/#entry231121
in the topic of my good friend, and co-builder, Jack Aubrey.
 
The ship plans are available in the excellent monography “Le Cygne” issued by Ancre, including 19 sheets of 1:48 scale detailed drawings and plans.
 
This will be a joint construction: JA started before, and completed the most difficult job of transferring the Ancre plans to AutoCAD.
I assisted at the starting of his project and was really impressed by the beauty of this ship: I already had lot of pictures of Le Cygne and Le Cyclope (another ship of the same class) in my database, and have always looked at them as a possibility for the future. So when JA started the possible future become the present, and I contacted him to ask if I could joint his project.
So, before anything else, I have to say THANK YOU SO MUCH to my friend Sergio for allowing me to join him in the project and for providing me, for free, the CAD plans to start with my model.
My copy of the monography has been shipped and is on the way, but unfortunately I’ll have to wait for it until the end of this month.
 
As JA explained, we decided to build a different shipmodel with respect to those already existing, namely Le Cygne, Le Cyclope, Le Cureiux and L’Esperance. More, JA decided (or initially thought about) to show her after  it was seized by the Royal Navy and re-commissioned for active service with the British, so with some modification to the original Ancre plans.
I’ve not decided yet what to do, but I will probably stick to the French configuration making good use of the excellent Ancre plans.
 
Which ship? We had a long discussion about this item, and I told Sergio that I will leave to him the priority of choice among the names that he elected as preferred. Therefore I will decide after him, but the rose of candidates is restricted among:
- Le Nisus (1805), seized in 1809 (--> HMS Guadeloupe)
- Le Milan (1806), seized in 1809 (--> HMS Achates)
- Le Phaéton (1806), seized in 1806 (--> HMS Mignonne)
- Le Colibri  (1809), seized in 1809 (--> HMS Colibrì)
 
The figurehead will be fictious, as no information exists for these ships, but obviously based on the name of the ship. I will find in internet some beautiful picture of that birds and do my best to get a decently carved figurehead.
 
The model
The size is quite large, according to Ancre website it will be 74cm long (the hull, 116cm fully rigged), 17cm wide (52cm rigged) and 17cm high (86cm tall fully rigged).
The wood will be... ehm ... well, whatever I manage to find. I mean, it’s quite difficult here in Italy to find sources of good wood for modelling at acceptable prices. I have some pearwood available, some other is seasoning, will use poplar plywood for the hull structure, probably limewood for the deck, a reddish variant of pinewood for the bulwarks, yet don’t know what for the hull planking (well, the hull is coppered so probably it is not important).
The model will be POB type.
 
After this long presentation...
 
October 19th, 2014
Grand opening of the shipyard, the first sawdust is produced...
 



 
My best regards
Fam

Thanks for all the likes and generous comments.
 
Slow going at my dockyard but another four frame pairs have been installed along with another gunport and then rough internal fairing, then the admiral decreed that the workshop needed cleaning.
 
Ben

Great advise Dan, why didn't I think of that




WOW, even better!

Thanks to everyone for their input regarding the planking below the transom.  Obviously, somewhere along the way, a measurement was off by about 1/8" (6" full size).  I decided to make up for this by making the planking below the transom look like it was designed to have a filler piece and not a correction for an "oopsie".  I am pleased with the look so far.  The same number of planks end on the wing transom as shown in TFFM.  The difference is that there is no need for a slight flare at the end because of the filler piece.  After installing the first row of planking below the "gang of six", I decided to lay out on the hull the rest of the runs of planking.  Tick strips were used at every station to obtain the remaining width.  This was divided by nine (the remaining number of rows) and the width was transferred to the hull with calipers.  After all the station marks were drawn in, the marks were connected in a fair line to show the run of the planking.  I also marked out the butts of the planks.  This makes the rest of the job much easier.  While there was a significant amount of framing visible, I decided to mark their locations on the planking so the lines of treenails would be fair.  At the stern this involved also marking out the fashion pieces and the location of imaginary cant frames going up towards the wing transom. Everything looks a little rough at this stage, having only lightly sanded with 100 grit.
 

 

 

 

Thanks all.
 
Mark, for delicate enhancing of the joints I use a pencil, but to simulate tarring like the joints on  the rudder I use very thin paper (probably 0.1 mm thick). It comes in different colors but it's not water proof so I use the white one and tint it with a black Sharpy. All joints are lined on one side and after gluing the pieces together I used a plane to shape the rudder and trim the excess paper lining.
 
Meanwhile the metalwork on the rudder is continued, the pintles and spectacle plate are made from separate pieces silver soldered together. Piet, when all metal work is ready I will try to brown them (instead of blackening) 
 
Here they are temporary fitted
 

 

 

 

 

 
I noticed the hole for the tiller sits to close to the top of rudder, In need to make a little fix to lower it
I'm not sure how that happened......
 
Remco
 
 

Hi all,
 
Well I'm back and glad to be back in the shop and it feels sooooooo good. The first thing I did was
to clean up a bit. Mind you it had nothing to do with running out of room to work.
 
One of the things I did was solve the issue I had with my vacuum hose being the same diameter as the
outlet for my Byrnes tools. I broke out my handy dandy lathe and took a 1 1/4" PVC coupling milled the
inside diameter to match the outside diameter of the hose and bingo I had a quick coupling.
 

 

 

 
 
The next thing I wanted to do was cut some sanding paper for my thickness sander. Normally there are
two 3" strips of sand paper on the drum. Sometimes though I sand wood that is 3" or wider. Now you can
put two strips of sandpaper side by side but that tends to leave a little grove in the wood from where they
meet. So I got some 6" wide sanding belts and cut strips  that cover the whole drum so now, if needed, I
can sand wood up to 6" wide now in one pass.
 

 

 
 
Ok back to actual modeling here. I have now completed planking the first two belts on both sides of the hull.
So far so good. Not stealers or drop planks. And as I said before it is slower but the planking is much easier. 
Everything has been sanded with 120 grit paper. Once the whole side is planked I'll finish sanding it
and apply a couple coats of wipe on poly. Now it's not a pristine as Chucks but I'm happy.
 

 

 
 

cont...
 

 

 

 

 

Hey Andy,
 
Here are some photos of my WVH as she stands today - I built her between 2002-2005 using mostly kit parts - single planked with the walnut wood provided.  I followed Corel directions as to where and how to start your planking run.  It turns out well - - as you can see the wales are placed on top of the planking after she's fully planked -which is not correct. You see a lot of kit models constructed this way - because its easier. Wales go on first to determine your planking run - then you plank from there.  If you want to paint your hull off white though - you can cover up the inaccurate run if you choose to follow the instructions.
 
I also attached some photos of the main deck - I milled my own holly for deck planking and tried to do a cut away to show the lower gun deck - which at the time seemed like a good idea - but now looks wrong to me - there would have been a few more beams here.  I also scratched my own gun carriages - because the ones in my kit were metal - i understand they have replaced these in newer kits.
 
The good news is I did a lot of research - Corel's plans are strong. I did some research secondary sources and the other sheets of plans I ordered to research the WPV. Some things are simplified - but overall Corel did a nice job.  
 
Look forward to seeing your progress,
Chris

Gents you can buy the 74 Gun Series in English directly from Ancre for 116 US dollars a piece new.  Most resellers try to sell copies of used ones for much more than this. 
Chris

Gents you can buy the 74 Gun Series in English directly from Ancre for 116 US dollars a piece new.  Most resellers try to sell copies of used ones for much more than this. 
Chris

Gents you can buy the 74 Gun Series in English directly from Ancre for 116 US dollars a piece new.  Most resellers try to sell copies of used ones for much more than this. 
Chris

Gents you can buy the 74 Gun Series in English directly from Ancre for 116 US dollars a piece new.  Most resellers try to sell copies of used ones for much more than this. 
Chris