ChrisLBren

Hey Andy,
 
Here are some photos of my WVH as she stands today - I built her between 2002-2005 using mostly kit parts - single planked with the walnut wood provided.  I followed Corel directions as to where and how to start your planking run.  It turns out well - - as you can see the wales are placed on top of the planking after she's fully planked -which is not correct. You see a lot of kit models constructed this way - because its easier. Wales go on first to determine your planking run - then you plank from there.  If you want to paint your hull off white though - you can cover up the inaccurate run if you choose to follow the instructions.
 
I also attached some photos of the main deck - I milled my own holly for deck planking and tried to do a cut away to show the lower gun deck - which at the time seemed like a good idea - but now looks wrong to me - there would have been a few more beams here.  I also scratched my own gun carriages - because the ones in my kit were metal - i understand they have replaced these in newer kits.
 
The good news is I did a lot of research - Corel's plans are strong. I did some research secondary sources and the other sheets of plans I ordered to research the WPV. Some things are simplified - but overall Corel did a nice job.  
 
Look forward to seeing your progress,
Chris

Here I’ve completed the decorative rail on top of the quarter galleries. My rail, Chucks has 3, has
4 decorative pieces in it  . My curve was a little bolder so it ended up too long for three so I
modified it to make four fit. I’ve decided to leave well enough alone with the windows. They won’t
be installed until much later as there is a lot of sanding and they will just trap dust and debris.
 

 

 
The only thing left to do for now on the galleries is to make the decorative columns. I am waiting
on a .016 kerf saw blade so I can cut flutes down the face of each column. 
 
That will complete chapter 6.
 
That will also catch me up to where Chuck is at right now. That will leave me time to work on
some other models I’ve shoved to the side. Also my daughter is moving to another house next
month and I have a looooooooong “Daddy do” list that will keep me quite busy for the foreseeable
future.
 
I just have to remember how to work at full scale again!  
 
 
 
 

I've got both a Byrnes table saw and disc sander on way......
 
Cant wait to use the sander on those head timbers that have been giving me fits - pics soon !!!

I've got both a Byrnes table saw and disc sander on way......
 
Cant wait to use the sander on those head timbers that have been giving me fits - pics soon !!!

I've got both a Byrnes table saw and disc sander on way......
 
Cant wait to use the sander on those head timbers that have been giving me fits - pics soon !!!

Continuation.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
Regards, Paul

I've got both a Byrnes table saw and disc sander on way......
 
Cant wait to use the sander on those head timbers that have been giving me fits - pics soon !!!

Hey Group,
 
At last all deck furniture is finished with the re installation of the ships wheel (i lowered its supports 1/16) and the binnacles.  All thats left on this one is the headrails, dummy masts, channels/deadeyes, gunport lids/fenders and anchors.  I need to decide if i want to proceed to the head rails or revisit the WVH - it is painting and sanding season outside here in Chicago (if it cools down just a bit).  On the other hand Ive got some renewed momentum on the Confed.  Have a great weekend,
Chris

Hey Gang,
An update at last !  Ive rigged and installed the rear cannon as well as the ships wheel.  As you can see by the profile photo - i probably should have mounted it about 1/32 further aft as the ropes arent centered on the drum.  And i think wheel stand is a little too tall by maybe 1/16.  Some corrections may be in order....
 
Stay tuned,
Chris

Hi Gang,
 
After a hiatus due to my wife and I having twins, she's dusted off and I'm hoping to recommence this build.  I've attached some not so great photos from my iphone - the idea here is just to get a log started and motivate me to get back in the shipyard - for at least a few hours per week.  
 
This build was started back in November of 2009 using Chucks plans that later were used in the Model Expo kit.  The woods used were swiss pear from Hobby Mill for almost exclusively with the exception of boxwood for the decks and a little bit of ebony for the false keel and checkerboard flooring in the great cabin.  Im a big fan of Fiebings dyed swiss pear and used this method for all black areas with the exceptions I just mentioned.  I used three finishes, pure tung oil for the hull, Watcos Danish Oil for the deck fittings and beams, and diluted sanding sealer for the deck.  
 
My goal is to at least get the 6 lb guns rigged and installed along with the ships wheel hopefully by the end of the month so i can begin the headrails this summer if the twins cooperate....
 
Thats it for now - by the way the photo posts looks a bit different than the old Modelship World - any tips on the best size to upload so they look more standard/fill the screen ?
Chris

Thanks Ben, Rusty and Mark - here are the updated photos.  I will be adding the channels next in boxwood and dye their inverted knees with Fiebings black leather dye.  I will scratch the deadeye strops and chain plate assemblies (hoping to get a torch for Xmas), then its finishing the head rails and adding the stump masts/anchors and mounting her to a display board.  
 
Yancovitch - I did not simulate caulking on the hull planking - not really a fan of that look - and most museum models do not show this detail.  You can see from the photos that the Tung Oil finish I used did accentuate the lines of the planking slightly - which was the effect I wanted. I  used a number 2 pencil to simulate caulking for the deck planking.  As far as treenailing - at this scale i didn't want to bother with it - I do think think the drilling and saw dust method would work well though if you want to go for it.  All planks were glued to each other and the bulkheads to try to get as tight of a result as possible.  Hope that helps - and thanks for the kind words!
 
Happy Thanksgiving !
Chris

Thanks Ben, Rusty and Mark - here are the updated photos.  I will be adding the channels next in boxwood and dye their inverted knees with Fiebings black leather dye.  I will scratch the deadeye strops and chain plate assemblies (hoping to get a torch for Xmas), then its finishing the head rails and adding the stump masts/anchors and mounting her to a display board.  
 
Yancovitch - I did not simulate caulking on the hull planking - not really a fan of that look - and most museum models do not show this detail.  You can see from the photos that the Tung Oil finish I used did accentuate the lines of the planking slightly - which was the effect I wanted. I  used a number 2 pencil to simulate caulking for the deck planking.  As far as treenailing - at this scale i didn't want to bother with it - I do think think the drilling and saw dust method would work well though if you want to go for it.  All planks were glued to each other and the bulkheads to try to get as tight of a result as possible.  Hope that helps - and thanks for the kind words!
 
Happy Thanksgiving !
Chris

I've got both a Byrnes table saw and disc sander on way......
 
Cant wait to use the sander on those head timbers that have been giving me fits - pics soon !!!

Except for 2 dolphins and 1 set of flowers, we have a good idea of what the side view will look like.
As for the white background , for a piece of 8 feet large, I still need some practice

Tuesday, January 13, 2015  
Last Saturday I finished to install the deck planking . . Then I didn't achieved anything else because I had a continuous succession of unexpected events that I couldn't find time for ship modeling. I hope, now, to be able to resume the activities.
Before resuming the planking of the hull, I must go to a shipmodels shop to buy other strips of limewood 6 x 2 because, having also used them for the deck, I haven't enough wood for completing the hull.
Finally a few words about the process to hide the holes of the nails on the deck, the problem that kept my mind busy for a while: I did some tests on a tablet that I had prepared when I did the test for caulking, doing similar holes and applying the same oil used for the deck, recreating the same starting point. I managed to make them disappear almost completely, even if the process consists of several steps before considering it finished.
On the deck of the model I did the first two steps, which already have acheived a certain effect, but for the other steps it would be preferable to wait until the works on the inner sides of the bulwarks are concluded.
So I decided that the next step will be to open the gunports for guns and carronades, nine on each side. Probably today I hope to track all them in the right location with precision and to open at least one gunport . . we will see.
A cordial greeting to all of you, Jack.Aubrey.
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150112_110720_zps53a7cf77.jpg

02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150112_110457_zpsd5fc6a7e.jpg

03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150112_110446_zpsf1e8eaa9.jpg

04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150112_110452_zps2045ade9.jpg

05 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20150112_110429_zps57c78d80.jpg

 

Detail on the second picture;
In certain cases, drawing must be fitted to fit the space.

I took everyone's warnings to heart regarding the frieze and was determined to stretch some paper.  I am not at home this week and therefore have no access any tools to attempt a frame like Michael demonstrated.  I had been using masking tape to hold the paper and decided to try gummed packing tape, as recommended in TFFM.  The local Staples does not carry it.  Something about "Nobody has used that for years".  I tried a series of clamps instead of tape but did not get equal pull across the edge of the paper.  So, with nothing to lose but time and patience, I decided to make the friezes from the paper painted with enamel.
 
In examining the draughts and a photo of a contemporary model of Atalanta, it appears the shear plank is much narrower than that called for in TFFM. The lower row of friezes buts up against the inferior edge of the shear plank. Consequently, the lower frieze is positioned too low and does not extend across the top of the gun port openings.  This left me with four options:  1) remove the shear plank and all the planking down to the lower edge of the gun port, resizing the width of four rows of planking, 2) redraw the lower frieze so that it is 2 mm narrower, approximating the width of the upper row of the frieze, 3) keep the dimensions of the lower the frieze and install it below the too-thick shear plank or 4) skip the frieze.  Well, number 1 was not going to happen and I really wanted that splash of color the frieze would provide.  I felt that narrowing the lower frieze would make the decoration seem out of balance.  That left me with option 3, installing the frieze below the shear plank, knowing it extends too low on the hull.  After carefully examining the draughts, I did not see any problem in proceeding with this last option.
 
After a little experimentation, the technique that worked the best for me was to cut the piece of frieze a little long to overlap the gun port openings.  Next, apply a thin layer of undiluted yellow glue to the back of the frieze.  Grasp the end of the frieze with a watchmaker's forceps and position the end at the edge of the gunport.  Slowly place the rest of the frieze in position.  Moisten the surface to remove any excess glue.  Finally, gently burnish it in place with a piece of planking.  This has to be done quickly because the glue is set within a minute.  Once completely dry, the edges of the gun port are cleaned up with an 11 blade. The slivers of blue above the gun ports were added separately.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Ben, Rusty and Mark - here are the updated photos.  I will be adding the channels next in boxwood and dye their inverted knees with Fiebings black leather dye.  I will scratch the deadeye strops and chain plate assemblies (hoping to get a torch for Xmas), then its finishing the head rails and adding the stump masts/anchors and mounting her to a display board.  
 
Yancovitch - I did not simulate caulking on the hull planking - not really a fan of that look - and most museum models do not show this detail.  You can see from the photos that the Tung Oil finish I used did accentuate the lines of the planking slightly - which was the effect I wanted. I  used a number 2 pencil to simulate caulking for the deck planking.  As far as treenailing - at this scale i didn't want to bother with it - I do think think the drilling and saw dust method would work well though if you want to go for it.  All planks were glued to each other and the bulkheads to try to get as tight of a result as possible.  Hope that helps - and thanks for the kind words!
 
Happy Thanksgiving !
Chris

Wow - that looks great !  What a stunning figurehead for a gorgeous model.
Chris

The burton pendants, shrouds stay and preventer stay are now done on the lower main mast. The rope sizes were, of course, larger than for the mizzen, but the procedures followed were the same. This phase of the work will be completed next with the same lines on the lower foremast. This may be delayed a bit since my kids and grandkids are all arriving for an extended holiday visit.
 
Let me take this opportunity to wish all who visit this log a very happy holiday season and a healthy New Year.
 
Bob

Tengo un desajuste gigante ... después de muchos intentos, me subió los tirantes traseros laterales de estribor.

Hello,
many thanks for the nice comments.
Lately, here are little progress has been made.
Here are just two pictures of the model.

 


I want to wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Some flowers for Christmas.
Parts in the first picture are almost longer to prepare than to carve.

Thank's jansmiss
 
Another photo's 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year 
 
Alberto

Thanks Ben, Rusty and Mark - here are the updated photos.  I will be adding the channels next in boxwood and dye their inverted knees with Fiebings black leather dye.  I will scratch the deadeye strops and chain plate assemblies (hoping to get a torch for Xmas), then its finishing the head rails and adding the stump masts/anchors and mounting her to a display board.  
 
Yancovitch - I did not simulate caulking on the hull planking - not really a fan of that look - and most museum models do not show this detail.  You can see from the photos that the Tung Oil finish I used did accentuate the lines of the planking slightly - which was the effect I wanted. I  used a number 2 pencil to simulate caulking for the deck planking.  As far as treenailing - at this scale i didn't want to bother with it - I do think think the drilling and saw dust method would work well though if you want to go for it.  All planks were glued to each other and the bulkheads to try to get as tight of a result as possible.  Hope that helps - and thanks for the kind words!
 
Happy Thanksgiving !
Chris