usedtosail

Its beautiful Rusty. Great job.

Its beautiful Rusty. Great job.

Hi All,
 
Well, the Dutchess of Kingston has officially been finished. It took me some time to finish working around
my other builds, but it was well worth it. I want to commend Chris Watton for producing such a wonderful
kit that looks great and is a pleasure to build. I look forward to some of Vanguards future releases and trying
to figure out what one I want to build next.
 
To those who built the Duchess before me thank you for your logs. They saved me more times that I can count.
Thanks to all of you for your comments, support and likes. It was deeply appreciated.
 
 
 

An actual horseshoe clamp taken from the wreck of the HMS Janus. She sank in 1800 off Trinidad. This was given to me earlier this year by a commercial diver Robert Stauble who knew of my interest in out marine history. Notice how rough the casting is. Makes one wonder if it ws recessed or just bolted flat against the keel and the hull. Its 33 1/4“ wide, 22” high, the width of the cast is 3 1/2” and its 3/4” thick. The holes are 1 1/2” wide and there are 7 holes to take the bronze pins.
 

T'gallant yards crossed.  Lifts, jeers, and halyards rigged.  Coiled rope on the mizzen t'gallant yard will be braces.  Slack in the upper stays is, I hope, temporary.
 

a few steps forward:










 

Just had my second and third 8k 3d printer arrive. I need this many as kits have a lot of multiple parts, like cannon barrels.
 
This is my main 'production area' now, along with laser material storage. (and completed Indy laser cut parts). I will need to get a third extractor for the smaller laser machine at some point, though, as both of my current ones are attached to the large laser. Right now, the laser is cutting more Sphinx 0.6mm pear, as I was running short.

So in the last couple of weeks I have managed to clean up the yards and paint them black. I have also stropped all the blocks for the yards and added the stirrups for the foot ropes. I added one foot rope to each of the topGallant yards and will start adding them to the other yards soon.
 

 
I have also added all the lower shrouds to the masts and have started adding the upper deadeyes to the shrouds. I am using a throat seizing to attach the deadeyes initially, which I can slide to get them even. I am also using two twisted pieces of wire to hold the upper and lower deadeyes while I get the seizing tight. Once all the deadeyes are on the shrouds I will start doing a final height check and fix the seizings to hold them, then add two round seizings to hold the loose ends of the shrouds to themselves.
 

 

So in the last couple of weeks I have managed to clean up the yards and paint them black. I have also stropped all the blocks for the yards and added the stirrups for the foot ropes. I added one foot rope to each of the topGallant yards and will start adding them to the other yards soon.
 

 
I have also added all the lower shrouds to the masts and have started adding the upper deadeyes to the shrouds. I am using a throat seizing to attach the deadeyes initially, which I can slide to get them even. I am also using two twisted pieces of wire to hold the upper and lower deadeyes while I get the seizing tight. Once all the deadeyes are on the shrouds I will start doing a final height check and fix the seizings to hold them, then add two round seizings to hold the loose ends of the shrouds to themselves.
 

 

So in the last couple of weeks I have managed to clean up the yards and paint them black. I have also stropped all the blocks for the yards and added the stirrups for the foot ropes. I added one foot rope to each of the topGallant yards and will start adding them to the other yards soon.
 

 
I have also added all the lower shrouds to the masts and have started adding the upper deadeyes to the shrouds. I am using a throat seizing to attach the deadeyes initially, which I can slide to get them even. I am also using two twisted pieces of wire to hold the upper and lower deadeyes while I get the seizing tight. Once all the deadeyes are on the shrouds I will start doing a final height check and fix the seizings to hold them, then add two round seizings to hold the loose ends of the shrouds to themselves.
 

 

So in the last couple of weeks I have managed to clean up the yards and paint them black. I have also stropped all the blocks for the yards and added the stirrups for the foot ropes. I added one foot rope to each of the topGallant yards and will start adding them to the other yards soon.
 

 
I have also added all the lower shrouds to the masts and have started adding the upper deadeyes to the shrouds. I am using a throat seizing to attach the deadeyes initially, which I can slide to get them even. I am also using two twisted pieces of wire to hold the upper and lower deadeyes while I get the seizing tight. Once all the deadeyes are on the shrouds I will start doing a final height check and fix the seizings to hold them, then add two round seizings to hold the loose ends of the shrouds to themselves.
 

 

Thanks Glenn. You guys that have already built this model have been a big help.
 
I started working on the various mast sections using a combination of the mill for the square sections and the lathe for the round ones. Here are the fore and main masts and topmasts which are ready to go. I have the mizzen mast ready and am working on the mizzen topmast. I made sure all these sections fit into the various holes in the tops and caps so I won't have to fiddle with them when it is time to assemble the masts. I do still have to file the flats in the lower masts for the hounds but I will do that when the tops are ready to fit.
 

This update shows the basic external finishing of Indefatigable, and at this stage doesn't include the numerous rails etc. that make up the side bulwarks. That's for later in the build.
 
After a LOT of sanding of the second pear planked layer, the gun ports were opened up to their correct size at last. Before using some custom-made sanding sticks for the job, the inner bulwark port openings were trimmed down more or less to the size of the port itself. The sanders were then used to finally clean them up and even out the internal areas. A sharp scalpel was then used to square up any corners properly.
 

 
 
 
If you remember, the first pear plank was laid to be in the exact same position as the the upper strip of the wales. Here you can see the mark that indicates the flow of the plane at the prow. The top also aligns with the top of the prow, so that makes it easier!

 
 
 
A 4mm wide strip of 1mm pear is now run from the prow to the stern, following that plank line. I used CA gel for this as I didn't want to use any pins on this area. I've left the plank overlong at the rear so you can see where it runs to. The last two gun ports are also partially obscured by the strip.


 
 
 
Now, three 5mm wide pear strips of 1mm thickness are run directly underneath the 4mm strip, again with CA gel. Once in place, I masked off the area on both sides of the wales and sanded the wales smooth. You'll note that I tapered the lower two planks towards the bow, and the lower one plank at the stern.

 
 
 
The gun ports are now cut into the wales, and the wales are finally shaped at the stern. These are shaped from the curve of the stern lower counter, and rounded into the underside of the wale.

 
 
Indy now looks like this. The next update will show some internal work underway. 

Finally, I decided that I needed to focus on a nice line, and for that, I would use long planks vs short ones.  This would minimize all the joints, and the bumpiness I was running into because of them.  I also decided that if necessary, I could sand down the planksheer to an even thickness with the rest of the planking, and add a thin planksheer on top of the planking – or not (we’ll see).  With those decisions made, I went ahead and began laying planks, and here is where I am at present:

Now I need to smooth out the surface, perhaps use some filler where necessary, and clean up gun port and stern window openings.  Then I can begin to lay the wales.  It's nice to be back in the shipyard, although I think that I'll be making it more of a HOBBY.  You're sure welcome to join along - just don't get frustrated with long gaps between posts.  I DO want to see this project finished someday, but not at the expense of my sanity .  Fair winds to you all!
 
- Bob  
 
 

After looking at other models for ships this size, I decided to secure the lower shank with the shank painter.  As druxey suggested, one end is attached to a ringbolt inside the bulwark and the free end terminates in a hook which is secured in a second ringbolt. The upper part of the shaft and the ring were tied off to timberheads.  I have added a block of wood on the rail under the anchor to protect the rail from damage.

How does this look?  The shankpainter would be bolted to the hull and drawn up over the bottom of the anchor shank and secured to a cleat on the inside bulwark.  The top of the shank would be secured to a timberhead.

This is how it looks with the upper mold removed and then out of the mold.

In the middle is the master anchor, to the right is the cast anchor after polishing and to the left is the anchor after taking a bath in Blue Jacket's Pewter Black.

I applied the seizing and puddening to the anchor ring and then installed them on the anchors.

The anchor stock was made next.  You can see the holes drilled for the bolts and treenails. 

The stock was then applied to the anchor and the "iron" rings were applied.   These are actually made from paper.  Overall, I am pleased with the result.

As I mentioned previously, I want to show the starboard anchor lashed to the hull.  As the ship's base will be a launching ways, the hawser cable would not be attached.  These pictures show the only location for the anchor that does not block any of the ports.  I have been looking in all the books I have, as well as looking at models on the RMG site, and cannot figure out how it should be secured.  I presume the shaft would be lashed to the aft timberhead but there must be some other rope securing it.  Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for looking in, Dan.  As for rigging, the only other rigging I plan on doing is for the anchor!  Speaking of which, I will be showing the ship with two bower anchors; the starboard one will be secured to the ship and the port will be lowered onto the base.  Since I had good luck casting the armament, I decided to cast these from pewter as well.  This is the material I use for the casting.  It is a high temperature silicone rubber that can be used for low-melting-point metals like pewter.  The second picture shows the rest of the equipment necessary for the casting, including a pewter rod.  As you can see, there is nothing exotic about the process.  It is, however, very sensitive to the relative weights of the components, so they need to be weighed down to the gram.


The first step was to make a master anchor from wood.  It would have been a lot less work if I had simply made two anchors from wood but I like the look of the metal.  I made a box from scrap basswood ply, embedded it in clay and did my first pour.  After removing the clay, you can see the result.  There are two dowels going through the mold for alignment.  The pouring spout is on top and there are relief openings at the end of the flukes.  These were too large, preventing the flukes from filling completely, and were reduced after a few unsuccessful pours.  The next photos shows the mold after the second layer of rubber was poured before and after the master was removed.

 
The two mold halves were clamped together, being careful not to distort them with the clamps.  I used pieces of the box to distribute the pressure.

 
 

A little more progress....Next the rudder.

So in the last couple of weeks I have managed to clean up the yards and paint them black. I have also stropped all the blocks for the yards and added the stirrups for the foot ropes. I added one foot rope to each of the topGallant yards and will start adding them to the other yards soon.
 

 
I have also added all the lower shrouds to the masts and have started adding the upper deadeyes to the shrouds. I am using a throat seizing to attach the deadeyes initially, which I can slide to get them even. I am also using two twisted pieces of wire to hold the upper and lower deadeyes while I get the seizing tight. Once all the deadeyes are on the shrouds I will start doing a final height check and fix the seizings to hold them, then add two round seizings to hold the loose ends of the shrouds to themselves.
 

 

Post One hundred and Sixty-one.
 The Launch – completion

8258
Busy, busy, in the workshop, a case of spot the the boat.

8264
With the wash-boards attached a fair bit of cleaning up is required, but overall  I am satisfied that the modification was worth it.

8265
 
The Rudder
The final addition; as with the other boats I put the kit arrangement aside in favour of  a working rudder using the typical long pintle at the lower end.

8254(2)
The long pintle is silver soldered using a fine brass eyebolt and pin.

8255(2)
A brass micro tubing sleeve  is used to give support where it fits into the lower stern post.

8266
The long pintle is particularly important  in relation to the Launch as to work the Davit the rudder would need to be removed quickly and easily.

8260

8262
If the rudder is shown in place, then the Davit is stored in the Stern-sheets.

8270
 If the Davit is shown in place, then the Rudder is not fitted, it would be taken onboard.

8274(2)
For display purposes I will have the Davit in place as it is a launch specific fitting.

8276(2)
With ten days labour I think I’ve had my moneys worth out of the Launch kit, a lot of modifications in one small hull.
 

8279(2)
Two down, one to go.
 
 
B.E.
29/08/2022
 

A small Speedwell update. The lower ratlines have been installed as well as the euphroe tackle and crowsfeet. On many models I see they appear oversize. At 1/4" scale though we should be able to approximate the 1" ratline and 3/4" crowsfeet diameters. For the ratlines I use Guterman polyester Mara 120 thread (dark brown). For the crowsfeet I used 6/0 Uni-Thread, dark brown. I tried 6-0 silk for this but it just kept fraying (such is the nature of silk). I must admit that making the euphroes with their numerous no. 78 drilled holes (there are nine in the main euphroe), setting up the euphroe tackle and rigging the crowsfeet was an exercise in patience (and frustration). I was so pleased with my first attempt until I realized that I had reverse rigged one hole and had to redo the whole thing.  Onward and upward (literally)!
 

Nice work on the Eagle, Bill. I know you will love that new saw.

She is looking absolutely great, Bill. I love those details too.

That is looking great Bill. I think you have achieved a good balance with what you are leaving open.