popeye2sea

John, Not wishing to hijack your build log again, I will post some pics of 4th of July in a separate thread. Come see it there.

Roger, The Burton Pendant is rigged first. (the thimble on the end will take a tackle for hoisting heavier objects from the deck). The pendants (port and starboard are joined together with a cont splice sized to fit the masthead(forms an eye in the middle of a rope). The cont splice is dropped over the masthead so that the pendants hang down beside the mast. Next the shrouds go on in pairs. A length of rope is doubled and an eye is seized in the bight (loop) to fit the masthead. The first pair is set up on the starboard side, then the forward pair on the port side. Continue for the required number of shrouds. The final odd number shrouds for the port and starboard side are set up like the burton pendant with a cont splice. The upper deadeyes get turned in on the lower end of each shroud. When set up all the deadeyes should be in a horizontal line. This is what the jig is for. First set up the lower deadeyes to the channels. Make sure that the middle hole of the deadeye is down (lower than the other two). Using the jig to give the proper spacing turn the upper deadeye in on the end of the shroud. The shroud will pass around the deadeye and get seized to itself. Make sure that the middle hole of the upper deadeye is up. Reeve the deadeye lanyard through the upper and lower deadeyes. The lanyard always starts on the upper deadeye with a stopper knot on the inboard side. It will start at the aft upper hole on the port deadeyes and the forward upper hole on the starboard. The end of the lanyard will go from the lower deadeye up to the shroud where it will be hitched around the shroud with a cow hitch and the end brought back down and seized to itself.

Src, The only spacing guidance that I am aware of for shrouds is that the are spaced so that their associated chains do not pass in front of any gunports.

John, look me up when you get into town. I'll make sure you get the full tour.

Giving a tour to some of our privateer friends from Rhode Island

Me giving a tour last year.... Oh, and no ship that's not crewed by the damned and captained by a man so evil that Hell itself spat him back out could possibly have black sails, therefore couldn't possibly be any other ship than the Black Pearl. Is that what you're telling me?

Can I get an Amen and a Hallelujah!

If you consider that the sewn lines are the seams of the sail cloths used to construct the sail, then the emblem would have been an additional piece sewn over the cloths. Hence the seams would be hidden by the emblem.

Dan, Does Lee suggest that one of the parrel rope methods is older than the other. I would think that the one that brings the end of the parrel strop to the deck to be the later of the two.

Looks like the bottom of a fish tank.

Chuck, I received mine and they look great. Now I have to start making strops and hooks to go with them . I'm waiting on Alexey's serving machine so that I can begin the strops. 96 2mm blocks and strops and 48 hooks to rig 12 cannons

Thanks folks, This being my first build I really do not know what to expect. I keep thinking that I have to allow for tension. I guess that is another reason that I am glad I found this site. The advice I get is priceless.

What metal are people making their hooks from? I am worried that at the small gauges that I am looking to use they will simply bend open when I put a strain on them.

I have been told that the Loring model of the Constitution is a mix of different iterations(?) of the ship. And it is not a very good model to use as a reference piece.

There is a flexible rammer made of rope that would allow the powder and shot to be rammed down the barrel without the end (or the sailor) being stuck out of the gun port.

Thank you Spiff and Wefalk. Your comments explain a lot. I'll prime with white from now on.

Thanks Russ

What was the size of a typical breeching rope? I have 8, 18, and 24 pdrs on my Soleil Royal. I am assuming I can use the same size for the 18's and 24's. And I will scale down accordingly for the 8pdr.

R.C. Anderson gives a rule of thumb in his Rigging of Ships in the Age of the Spritsail Topmast as follows: Diameter of the Main Stay = 1/6 the diameter of the mast Fore stay = 4/5 of the Main Stay Mizzen Stay = 1/2 of the Fore Stay Stay collars = 3/4 of the stay Shroud and stay laniards = 1/2 of the stay or shroud, except main stay is 1/3 Shrouds are 1/2 of their respective stays, i.e. topmast shrouds are 1/2 of the topmast stay Mast tackle pendants, backstays = 1/2 of the shrouds Tackle runners are 2/3 of their pendant Tackle falls are 1/2 of their runner or pendant Ties = shrouds Halyards = 2/3 of the Tie Lift and Brace pendants = 1/2 of the shroud Lifts = 3/8 of the shroud Braces = 3/4 of the Brace pendant Tacks = 1/2 of the shrouds Sheets = 3/4 of the shroud Clews = 1/2 of the sheet Bowline = 1/2 of the shroud Leechlines and Buntlines = 1/3 of the shroud Blocks sheaves are 9 times the diameter of the line, blocks are 12 times the diameter of the line. Hope it helps

Lambsbk, There are two hawse pipes on the gun deck and corresponding ones on the berth deck that allow the cable to pass down to the orlop. I will take pictures of them on Tuesday when I am aboard next.

The difficulties in handling this yard was probably the reason it was replaced by a simpler gaff and boom rig.

I believe that the same method would be used to hoist cannon aboard.

Thanks Russ. And Tim, I apologize for hijacking your thread.

I'm on the third coat now and the blue molded plastic is still showing through. Multiple coats are not really a problem because there is no surface detail to hide, but it's just a pain in the a## to have to paint so many coats.

I am currently using Testor's Model Master acrylic #4630 Red. I have also tried Model Expo's #MS 4802-B Gun Red. It goes on a bit thicker but still has poor coverage.