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popeye2sea

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Everything posted by popeye2sea

  1. Here is what I found aboard the ship today. There are no lines that come inboard on the gun deck. In the picture below you can see the sheave in the spar deck bulwark for the main sheet. It belays on the large horizontal cleat next to it. The next picture is where the main brace comes in. Its sheave is right aft by the transom, close up under the cap rail. (Of course, the fire extinguisher and life preserver are not original equipment ) When the bulwark in the waist was higher the fore sail sheet and main tack came in through sheaves there. Now that this section of bulwark has been removed I do not know where these lines come inboard. It depends on whether your version has the high bulwarks in the waist If the waist is open my guess would be to take the fore sheet aft to a sheave and cleat just aft of the break and the main tack inboard to a cleat just forward of the break. Again, I am not sure if the tack required a sheave. The fore tack did not seem to have one
  2. I see what you have there for the rigging of the main and fore sheets and tacks, but I am still not convinced that these lines come inboard on the gun deck on the actual ship. I will take another look next time I am aboard in the next few days.
  3. I always thought that the whole point of bracing the yards up sharp was to bring the windward edge of the sail closer to the wind. So the apparent wind direction will usually be closer to the line that the yard makes across the ship, hence that is the direction that the flags should point. I also think that while underway some combination of flags are always flown, whether it be the national ensign, admiral or other commanders distinguishing mark, or signal flags. Perhaps if the ship is underway, not in company with other ships then there might not be a flag displayed.
  4. I would have to check my set of plans for the Connie, but I don't remember anything belaying on the gun deck. Does the main sail sheet run through a sheeve in the side? Perhaps the main brace? I think that those are on the the spar deck level also. Not sure what you mean by a halyard clew line. The halyard and the clew are two different lines.
  5. It also helps if you scrape out of a corner and not into the corner. You'll get cleaner removal.
  6. The ironic thing is that nothing that Joshua Humphries designed into the ships was very unique. All of the concepts he used were found in other ships. The beauty of his design was combining them into one ship. He was very forward thinking. He knew that the country could never afford to build enough ships to go toe to toe with any European navy.
  7. I think there is some influence there from the general styles in art and architecture of the period. The older pieces being more highly decorated.
  8. Would not the position of posts be determined somewhat by the placement of various furniture and gear (i.e. pumps, capstans, etc.) about the decks.
  9. Steels, Art of Rigging simply states "Dead-eyes are turned into the lower end of the top mast shrouds, as the lower ones are into to lower shrouds.
  10. That looks like the lacing of the sail to its mast hoops
  11. Also bear in mind that if you are displaying your guns run out that they are in their firing position so decorative coils are not appropriate.
  12. I still maintain that the gun tackles were faked down and not coiled. Faking the tackles would allow them to run free an not kink or jam when the gun recoiled.
  13. All of the gilding on my Soleil Royal build is done with Testors Gold enamel. I am very pleased with the results. The one thing you have to make sure of is that you stir or remix the paint frequently. Even after very short periods of time the pigment starts to settle out and the finish starts to go on very dull.
  14. First, wash the parts in warm soapy water to remove any release agent. The method you use to glue the parts together really depends on the type of glue you are using. If you are using a liquid solvent type of plastic cement (actually melts the two parts together) an efficient way of joining the hull halves together is to put the parts together and then run the glue applicator along the joint. The cement will wick into the joint by capillary action. It's easier than applying cement to the halves first and risking over gluing or messy smears while trying to fit the hull halves together.
  15. If the sails are fitted with up-hauls and down-hauls it would be easier to furl them at the mast rather than like is shown in the graphics.
  16. Stay tackles in conjunction with yard tackles would be used to sway out cargo from the holds. The yards would be braced round so that the tackle was more in line with the hatch. The tackles would be hooked to the load and the stay tackle heaved upon to hoist the cargo clear of the hatch. Hauling on the yard tackle and easing off the stay tackle would swing the cargo over the side of the ship till the yard tackle bore all the strain. Easing off all together would lower the cargo to the pier or the lighter alongside.
  17. The upper blocks for the lifts were sometimes fastened to the mast with a pendant that passed through the shrouds so that the block was outboard of the plane of the shrouds. That may make it a little easier to re-rig the lifts after you fit the shrouds in place. Side note: Watch out, if you changed the intended angle of the mast your shrouds may not fit properly.
  18. Wow. Simply amazing. Great build and great photos.
  19. Thanks Russ. I'll look into getting some.
  20. Russ, is there a benefit to using a waxed cotton like Japara?
  21. Outstanding work. Looking forward to see the finished deck mounted.
  22. It has been a particularly cold and snowy one. I'm getting tired of shoveling snow and I'm looking forward to the warmer weather. The predictions are for more cold and snow/rain through July.....um....I mean, tonight.
  23. Yes, but as you pointed out, the cool thing is that you now understand not only how to use and recognize each line but also how to rig it properly.
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