popeye2sea

During the development of signaling systems in the 17th and 18th century various positions were employed to hoist flags to. i.e: trucks, tops, yardarms, gaffs. Often the same flag flown in different positions would indicate different signals. For example a flag flown at the fore top might mean "close the enemy and lay alongside" while the same flag flown at the main top might mean "general chase". Sometimes there were very few types of flags available for use and national ensigns and admirals distinguishing flags were used for signaling purposes. The fleet admiral was responsible for setting out the signal system he wanted to use in his standing orders to the fleet. As far as getting flags aloft without fouling the rigging, when I was a signalman in the Navy we sometimes sent flags aloft on the halyard rolled and tied with light twine. When the flag reached the block a quick tug on the halyard would break the twine allowing the flag to fly free. We often did this with the admirals flag and the break was timed to the bosuns pipe during side honors as the admiral came aboard. For your flags. The National Ensign should fly from the spanker gaff, the admirals flag from the main truck, the "don't tread on me" jack from the jack staff on the bowsprit, and the signal flags denoting the ships call sign will fly from the fore yard arm. If you are flying all these flags it would indicate that your ship is anchored or moored at pierside. The jack is only flown when moored or at anchor and the call sign is flown only while entering or leaving port or sometimes while moored. Henry

I agree with Druxey regarding 1 and 2 being mast pendants and tackles. Number 3 is probably Bowlines for the Fore Topsail.

If you click on the photo the file name includes the ship name.

Seems to me that there would also be variation in the diameter of the final rope depending on whether it is slack or hard laid. So, your finished diameter would depend on your technique as well as the number and size of the strands.

Of the lines you mentioned, buntlines come down before the sail.

I have good results with acrylic. But for some reason red does not cover well at all and I find that I have to use more than the usual two coats. I have experienced this with various brands.

Do you ever worm your lines to smooth out the undulations of the serving?

The Soleil Royal (1669) was rigged with a Fore Topmast Staysail as well as a Spritsail Topmast. The Topmast stay originates at the junction of the bowsprit and the spritsail topmast. The problem of backstays and bowlines reeved through blocks on the topmast stay fouling the stay sail was solved by having the staysail bent to a false stay seized below the stay.

On a slightly different vein, does anyone have any experience fitting sails so that they can be worked, i.e. being able to change the set of the sails from clewed up to fully set?