popeye2sea
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Everything posted by popeye2sea
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She's almost done and looks really sweet. I also have found a bunch of extra items called for in my kit (blocks, eye bolts, and belaying points) with no corresponding lines running to them in the rigging plan. The converse seems to be true also. Some lines called for in the plan do not have a fair lead or a good belaying point. I think that mine is a case of poor quality control and follow up with changes in the plan during the kit development. (Sounds like an official excuse anyway ) I'm going with the method of attaching all blocks to the spars and masts prior to installing and rigging, so I have been through the entire rigging plan several times to determine the sizes for each block and where it will fasten to. All part of the learning curve, I guess. -
Passing ropes through blocks.
popeye2sea replied to Romanov's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The other thing to consider is if the hole for the line is big enough for the line as well as the threader then the hole is out of scale (too large). -
SOS, I have been reading some of your tales from boot camp. Brought back a lot of memories from my own experiences at Great Lakes RTC. I was company clerk. They must have done something right back then because I retired as a Chief. Good times
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Once you serve, it's in your blood forever. It's one of the reasons I build ship models.
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The sails are really looking great. I especially like the second photo of the ship in front of the window. The angle and the lighting on the sails shows them off to good effect.
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I only play a Marine on TV . I am a retired Navy Chief. I joined an 1812 Marine re-enactment unit to stay involved with the USS Constitution, which I was also stationed aboard for a short time.
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The distinction between whipping and seizing is that whipping is applied to a single rope to prevent unlaying and seizing is joining two items together. There are several styles of whipping, i.e: plain, palm and needle, sail makers and there are several types of seizings, i.e: cross (or throat), racked, flat and round.
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My time aboard USS Blandy DD 943 in the early 80's included plenty of plane guard duty, also. We still used the bos'ns chair to send personnel back across and in return got movies, ice cream and mail. Things really do not change much over the years.
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I recently read that the purpose of the bentinck shroud was to take the additional stresses imposed from the upper masts when the ship is rolling heavily. The bentinck shrouds were usually set up during heavy weather and not carried all the time. Not sure of the validity of that but I thought it worth mentioning.
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That splice looks really good. I have found that the splicing goes a lot easier if you use a needle threader. Push it under the strand and pull the end to be tucked back through.
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Mihial, I am looking forward to watching your build. You should move this thread to the build log section. You'll get more views and commentary there. Regards, Henry
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What a great tutorial. It's going to come in very handy when I get to making chains and strops for dead eyes.
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Wow Jay, you really captured it. It looks great
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There are additional staves above the futtock stave on the shrouds currently. I think that they are there because there are plenty of land-lubbers that go aloft when the ship makes her turnaround cruises
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Jay, I posted some info and picures in your other thread about the futtock shrouds. Hope it helps.
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Jay, I have those pics for you. It looks like the bentinck shroud legs are middled through a thimble eyespliced into the shroud, the splice served. There are 4 legs, the center pair are not actually shroud legs but they look like a long seizing, frapped, between the middle futtock shrouds and the bentinck shroud thimble. The other 3 legs have a thimble spliced into each end with a frapped seizing attaching them to the futtock stave. The shroud legs are served their entire length. The lower end of the bentinck shroud is seized around a heart with a throat and four round seizings. The lower heart is stropped double with two eyes. The eyes are held with a pin through an eyebolt in the waterway. The lanyard starts with an eye splice in the upper heart and the end is hitched round the shroud at the throat seizing end the bitter end seized to one of the parts of the laniard. Also visible in the photos is the attachments of the catharpin legs. You can also see that the bentinck shroud is served where there may be chafe from other rigging. Hope this info helps.
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Woo Hoo!! first win for me. I respectfully decline my turn at bat. Since I just beat out DFellingham by minutes I will pass the baton to him. Just wanted to see if I could win one of these, plus It seemed like a good reason to try google image search. Happy Searching
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United States Revenue Cutter Samuel D. Ingham. Texas colors
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Jay, If you can wait till tomorrow I will try and get you some more detailed pictures onboard the ship.
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I like it. My kit has neither capstans nor helm. I am thinking about putting them in
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Those decks are outstanding !!
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Shrouds were not unprotected. Protection from rot and water penetration was achieved by tarring. I would think that, especially om military ships, extra worming, parcelling and serving would not have been done because it costs money. Ships captains were held to strict allowances for stores and replacements. I would also tend to believe that most would be, like most sailors, practical, prudent, and conservative.
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Marc, It's not the fore most shroud of each pair. It is only the fore most shroud for that mast on each side, port and starboard. The purpose of the serving was to reduce chafe from the sails and their rigging against the shrouds.
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In my opinion the information found in any ship modelling book can be applied to any building medium. You will find that most of your research will be about how things were done 'back in the day' as opposed to what materials to use. I am building a ship from a plastic kit, but so far I have kitbashed various items from plastic, steel, brass and wood.
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Glad to be of assistance.
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