popeye2sea

Normally the laniard would start from a becket on the lower block.  Then through a sheave on the upper from aft forward, through the successive sheaves and ending by passing from the last sheave on the lower block from forward aft.  The turns were hauled taut and the end was hitched around the stay above the upper block.  The bitter end could be frapped around the whole tackle or nipped to one of the turns of the fall.
 
Regards,

R.C. Anderson (The Rigging of Ships...1600 - 1720) gives the diameter of the deadeyes to be about half of the mast to which they belong.
 
Regards,

Normally the laniard would start from a becket on the lower block.  Then through a sheave on the upper from aft forward, through the successive sheaves and ending by passing from the last sheave on the lower block from forward aft.  The turns were hauled taut and the end was hitched around the stay above the upper block.  The bitter end could be frapped around the whole tackle or nipped to one of the turns of the fall.
 
Regards,

Normally the laniard would start from a becket on the lower block.  Then through a sheave on the upper from aft forward, through the successive sheaves and ending by passing from the last sheave on the lower block from forward aft.  The turns were hauled taut and the end was hitched around the stay above the upper block.  The bitter end could be frapped around the whole tackle or nipped to one of the turns of the fall.
 
Regards,

Here  is an example of the Krylon Gold Foil paint on a whitte metal casting from the Steam Pumper that Ken Foran designed for Model Expo.  This was done with the rattle can.  The white metal casting was cleaned up a bit and then primed with Badger STYNLREZ white primer.  I can say with confidence that one can't tell this apart from a plated piece.
Kurt

Petersson is based on observation of one model in (?) the Science Museum.  Darcy Lever is more of an omnibus, but sticking to his own time frame.  Read Lever for procedures also.  If you make your masting and rigging so it can work properly, it will also look right.

Ok folks, next question.  In moving forward with setting up the lines in the waist area.  I am working on the main yard tye and halliard.  The question is this. Once you figure out the lengths of the tye and halliard needed to hoist the yard from the rail to the raised position, what did they do with all of the remaining halliard that ends up on deck?  Was it coiled and left on the deck? Was it hung from the knight, as I have shown below?  It is a lot of line. Don't mind the sloppy coil, it's very temporary.
 


 
Help!!!
 
Regards,

I suppose there is another way to fix this.  I could make sure that I make the sail with a seam centered instead of a cloth.  Then it would work out fine.
 
In the meantime...here is a stropped clew block with a long and short eye to go around the yard

 
And here it is rose lashed to the yard.


 
Regards,

OK, so some of you may ask, why is he bouncing ahead to working on the yards before the masts are even stepped.  Well, there is a method to my madness.  Or perhaps it's just madness. I don't know.
 
I just finished the final rigging of the guns in the waist.  And now I need to put some of the rigging in that belays in the waist because once the decks, masts, and shrouds are shipped this area will be particularly hard to reach.  These lines include the sheets and braces for the fore and main course, the main yard halliard, and the spritsail sheet.
 
In order to get the lengths of these lines correct I have to temporarily put the yards in place in their proper braced in orientation.  Not only that but since the course will be clewed up I have to place the clew line blocks in their proper locations to see where the sheets will be.
 
So, then I figured if I am going to do that I should just start working on the other furniture to go on the yard.  Which leads me to be making things like cleats, boom irons and the roband bending strips shown below.
 
During the period of this ship, sails were bent directly to the yards and hung underneath the yard.  Jack stays had not been invented yet.  The robands go around the yard.  In the center of the yard, where the cleat is, this does not work so a strip with holes to take the robands was added beneath the yard.  The holes are spaced a scale 12" apart because there were two robands per sail cloth, which was about 24 inches wide.
 
Here is my take on bending strips:



 
And looking at these pictures I realize that I will probably have to strip the bending strip off and make a new one.  The holes should be shifted 1/16 inch to the right so that they will line up with the center cloth of the sail.
 
Perhaps it really is madness after all.
 
Regards,
 

Slow going in the shipyard....but progress is still being made.
 
Here is my attempt at making inner studding sail boom irons.
These are made from 24 gauge steel wire.  I start with a z-shaped bend in the wire (90 degree bends).  The section in the middle is the measurement of the distance required between the yard and the boom.  Then I flattened both ends from the bend outwards on an anvil.  The length of each flattened end is determined by the circumference of the yard and the boom.  Then bend the flattened ends to make a hoop for the yard and boom.  A final adjustment to make everything straight and the iron is done.  The piece still needs to be soldered closed and blackened.  I will solder the hoops slightly smaller so that they are a jam fit at the proper place on the yard and boom.  The last photo shows the boom temporarily in place. The outer boom iron will be replaced with my own also.  That one will be a smaller version of the inner.  R.C. Anderson suggests that the style of outer boom iron shown in this photo did not come into use until the eighteenth century by the English.  
 
Hope you enjoy
 

 

 

 

 

I understand that I could just eliminate much of the line. But that would defeat the purpose of having the proper working length of halyard available.  My goal with this build is to have all of the lines workable, belayed and coiled, not fixed with glue.  I was really curious what was done on the actual ship.  A hanging coil of this size would be extremely unwieldy.  And I am not sure coiling on deck would be a viable option.
 
Anyone have any insights?

I am working on the main yard tye and halyard.  The question is this. Once you figure out the lengths of the tye and halyard needed to hoist the yard from the rail to the raised position, you end up with a really long halyard.  What did they do with all of the remaining halyard that ends up on deck?  Was it coiled and left on the deck? Was it hung from the knight, as I have shown below?  It is a lot of line. Don't mind the sloppy coil, it's very temporary.

 
Help
 
Regards,

The fourth sheave is for the top rope. So, if you are not planning to rig the top rope (normally only rigged when striking or raising the top mast) then you will not miss it anyway.

Well. At long last the ship yard is open again (i.e. life has slowed down a little again). I made a few small steps of progress. I have continued on the fore and main tack and sheet lines. As mentioned previously - these probably were not originally secured on the gun deck but that is where Revell has them and I don't know the detail well enough to bring them up to the spar deck (where they should in all likelihood have been routed). I used a coil on deck to stow the excess line on the fore tack. I used a coil loop on the main tack. I think I like the coiled loop better and will keep on using this configuration for the rest of the lines on the gun and spar decks. It did give me grief though. My CA glue just did not grab the way it used to 6 months ago. Time for some new stuff.
 
Coil on deck

 
Looped coils

 

Rifled weapons were in use by some at this time period. But most were using the brown Bess musket. In the US Navy, there would be one marine,the best shot, as a sharpshooter in the top, backed up by six or seven marines loading for him. That way he could keep up a steady rate of fire. So, if you know who the sharpshooter was you may be able to identify who shot Nelson.
 
Regards,

Ok folks, next question.  In moving forward with setting up the lines in the waist area.  I am working on the main yard tye and halliard.  The question is this. Once you figure out the lengths of the tye and halliard needed to hoist the yard from the rail to the raised position, what did they do with all of the remaining halliard that ends up on deck?  Was it coiled and left on the deck? Was it hung from the knight, as I have shown below?  It is a lot of line. Don't mind the sloppy coil, it's very temporary.
 


 
Help!!!
 
Regards,

Pre-Rigging the Tall Ship Model
By Peter Jaquith
 
Some ship modelers prefer to erect the masts, spars, and rigging in much the same sequence period ships were rigged (e.g. lower masts, lower shrouds, top masts, topmast shrouds, etc.).  Other ship modelers pre-rig the masts, spars, and sails with blocks and standing/running rigging components before final installation on the model.  The following notes describe the pre-rigging process as applied to the construction of my Topsail Schooner “Eagle” of 1847 build:
 
Rigging Strategy – My rigging strategy for the Topsail Schooner “Eagle” build was to install all possible eyebolts, blocks, standing/running rigging lines and components on the masts, spars, and sails prior to erection onboard the model.  Where appropriate, I constructed sail/spar assemblies to further complete rigging work on the bench prior to erection onboard the model.
Rigging Planning – Using a markup of the ship’s rigging plans, each rigging component/rigging line was identified and assigned to its installation stage with due consideration given to maintaining flexibility for onboard adjustment.  Once the plan review was completed, check lists were prepared by mast, spar, sail, and sail/spar assembly to track these installations.
Pre-Rigging the Gaffs & Booms – Boom and gaff pre-rigging included yard bands, eyebolts, parrel assemblies, blocks, and standing/running rigging lines associated with the respective spar.  Examples include boom sheet assemblies, boom sheet, boom topping lift, boom footropes, gaff throat and peak halyards, gaff vangs, and gaff topsail eyebolts and blocks.
Pre-Rigging the Topsail & Lower Yards – Topsail and lower yard pre-rigging included yard bands, eyebolts, parrel assemblies, blocks, and standing/running rigging lines associated with the respective spar.  Examples include yard trusses assembly; parrel assembly; jackstays; footropes; brace pendants; halyards; clewline, reef tackle, sheet, and bunt line blocks.
Pre-Rigging the Sails – Sail pre-rigging included running rigging blocks and lines associated with the respective sail.  Examples include sail hanks, mast hoops, halyards, downhauls, outhauls, inhauls, tacks, sheets, clewlines, bunt lines, and reef tackle.
Pre-Rigging the Masts – Mast pre-rigging included mast/cap bands, futtock shrouds, mast hoops, boom rest assemblies, mast coats, eyebolts, blocks, and the standing/running rigging associated with the respective mast. Examples include lower yard clevis assembly, lower shrouds, futtock shrouds, topmast shrouds, backstays, main and fore stays, throat and peak halyard blocks/runners, boom topping lift, yard lifts, yard brace blocks/runners, halyards, and buntline blocks.     
Sail & Spar Assemblies – The fore and main sails were assembled with their respective booms/gaffs, the fore topsail was assembled on its topsail yard, and the main gaff topsail was added to the aft mast assembly.  These assemblies allowed further completion of the running rigging on the bench top vs. onboard the model.
Rigging the Bowsprit & Jibboom – Head rigging (including bobstays, martingale stays, bowsprit guys, jibboom guys, and the bowsprit/jibboom footropes) was installed onboard the model prior to mast installation.  Tie in of the fore stay, jib stay, and fore topmast stay will be accomplished after fore mast installation.
Mast Erection & Standing Rigging Completion – Following mast erection on the model; the main triatic and topmast stays were tied off to the fore mast and the lower shrouds, backstays, and fore stays were tied off and secured with deadeyes and lanyards.  The head sails were fitted to the fore stays prior to their connection to the bowsprit/jibboom.  Additionally, ratlines were installed onboard the model.
Spar, Sail, & Running Rigging Completion – The remaining sails and sail/spar assemblies were installed onboard the model working from aft forward.  All the remaining running rigging associated with the sails and spars were tied off and completed in the same sequence.  Flags and rigging coils were added after completion of other rigging tasks.
 
While the pre-rigging strategy described above does require some up front planning; it significantly reduces onboard rigging work resulting in improved access and reduced risk of damage to the model during the rigging process.  I find that pre-rigging makes the rigging process far more manageable, although I admit that at one point it seemed as though I would never ever finish all the pre-rigging check list items preceding mast erection.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Ok folks, next question.  In moving forward with setting up the lines in the waist area.  I am working on the main yard tye and halliard.  The question is this. Once you figure out the lengths of the tye and halliard needed to hoist the yard from the rail to the raised position, what did they do with all of the remaining halliard that ends up on deck?  Was it coiled and left on the deck? Was it hung from the knight, as I have shown below?  It is a lot of line. Don't mind the sloppy coil, it's very temporary.
 


 
Help!!!
 
Regards,

I understand that I could just eliminate much of the line. But that would defeat the purpose of having the proper working length of halyard available.  My goal with this build is to have all of the lines workable, belayed and coiled, not fixed with glue.  I was really curious what was done on the actual ship.  A hanging coil of this size would be extremely unwieldy.  And I am not sure coiling on deck would be a viable option.
 
Anyone have any insights?

I am working on the main yard tye and halyard.  The question is this. Once you figure out the lengths of the tye and halyard needed to hoist the yard from the rail to the raised position, you end up with a really long halyard.  What did they do with all of the remaining halyard that ends up on deck?  Was it coiled and left on the deck? Was it hung from the knight, as I have shown below?  It is a lot of line. Don't mind the sloppy coil, it's very temporary.

 
Help
 
Regards,

Ok folks, next question.  In moving forward with setting up the lines in the waist area.  I am working on the main yard tye and halliard.  The question is this. Once you figure out the lengths of the tye and halliard needed to hoist the yard from the rail to the raised position, what did they do with all of the remaining halliard that ends up on deck?  Was it coiled and left on the deck? Was it hung from the knight, as I have shown below?  It is a lot of line. Don't mind the sloppy coil, it's very temporary.
 


 
Help!!!
 
Regards,

I understand that I could just eliminate much of the line. But that would defeat the purpose of having the proper working length of halyard available.  My goal with this build is to have all of the lines workable, belayed and coiled, not fixed with glue.  I was really curious what was done on the actual ship.  A hanging coil of this size would be extremely unwieldy.  And I am not sure coiling on deck would be a viable option.
 
Anyone have any insights?

I am working on the main yard tye and halyard.  The question is this. Once you figure out the lengths of the tye and halyard needed to hoist the yard from the rail to the raised position, you end up with a really long halyard.  What did they do with all of the remaining halyard that ends up on deck?  Was it coiled and left on the deck? Was it hung from the knight, as I have shown below?  It is a lot of line. Don't mind the sloppy coil, it's very temporary.

 
Help
 
Regards,

Ok folks, next question.  In moving forward with setting up the lines in the waist area.  I am working on the main yard tye and halliard.  The question is this. Once you figure out the lengths of the tye and halliard needed to hoist the yard from the rail to the raised position, what did they do with all of the remaining halliard that ends up on deck?  Was it coiled and left on the deck? Was it hung from the knight, as I have shown below?  It is a lot of line. Don't mind the sloppy coil, it's very temporary.
 


 
Help!!!
 
Regards,

Ok folks, next question.  In moving forward with setting up the lines in the waist area.  I am working on the main yard tye and halliard.  The question is this. Once you figure out the lengths of the tye and halliard needed to hoist the yard from the rail to the raised position, what did they do with all of the remaining halliard that ends up on deck?  Was it coiled and left on the deck? Was it hung from the knight, as I have shown below?  It is a lot of line. Don't mind the sloppy coil, it's very temporary.
 


 
Help!!!
 
Regards,