fnkershner

Ron - I have an update on my journey. As I mentioned I was trying to find a way to 3D print my Carronades on my Syren. I started by scanning the plans into Turbo CAD 64 bit. I would have used Sketchup but it did not have a tracing function. In the process of learning how to do this. I learned that first Turbo CAD did not have a tracing function. And 2nd as you mention, the tracing function is not very good anyway. But as part of my Research I joined a Forum on Turbo CAD to ask questions. One respondent asked me to post my JPG so he could see what I was trying to do. Yesterday I went back to the forum to see if there was any more suggestions. And I found that some one had taken my scan and created the 3d picture. Now all I need is his file and I can do my 3D print. It will also be a good chance to learn what he did.

A very proper Cleat Hitch. 

Ah its great to be back. Thanks to everyone for your hard work maintaining this site.
 
I've made more forward progress. The flying Jabboom and dolphin striker have been replaced. 
I've now rigged the two bobstays and bowsprit shrouds.
 

 
Next I added the inner martingale stays, the outer martingale backrope and outer martingale stays.
Also the foot ropes for the jibboom and flying jibboom were completed.
 

 

 
Next I have to serve the main stays and also create the mouse.

Hey I can’t even spell CNC.

Now that the site is back up. I can see I have a lot to catchup on. (Thank you to all the admins)
 
By the way while on the subject of thanks. I have so many people on this site to thank, I don't know where to begin. I am sure I would not be modeling today if it were not for the wonderful people here and in my local club. So let me focus on the assistance and support I have received for this build and also bring you up to date on my progress. I am sorry I will not be able to mention the names of all the people who contributed to the great Ideas I have incorporated in my build. But let me try.
 
First, all of us in the Syren Club have been discussing the terrible condition of the Carronades supplied with the kit. There have been several suggestions on alternatives. Some very compelling. I have decided to go a slightly different direction. Let me list the alternative I am aware of and why I decided not to go that way.
 
Caldercraft supplied - These are the best available. But I did not like the idea of spending $80 and then having to make significant alterations.
Blue Jacket supplied - Not a good as Caldercraft & cheaper, but still better than MS. But still the same reasons apply.
Mold out of pewter - Very interesting. But I have no experience and I would still need to make the mold. Also there is the color to deal with.
Make with wood - Again I would need to tools or skills to carve or a lathe. But this is my mostly likely 2nd choice.
 
So I have decided with the help of my good friend Per to 3D print the prototype using Sketch-Up. I have recently found a workshop which will give me access to 3 printers, 2 CNC machines, & 2 Laser cutters for a very low price. I am excited to give it a try. And I will likely create a prototype with the printer. and from that create a mold. Stay tuned. by the way you will see further detail on this subject in the CAD forum.
 
So the next area of help is in the Copper plating. Like most of us at this stage I have been working to build my stamps and jig. Jim Rogers has kindly offered to loan me his jig and stamps. And he will even help me get started. So in a couple weeks I will be taking the ferry to see Jim!
 
So while waiting on coppering with Jim I was thinking about what else to work on in the mean time. I decided to set up my blackening lab again because of suggestions I found here. I purchased from Amazon a small bottle of Brass Black for $8.50. The instructions on the bottle say to clean first with Alcohol, rinse with water, then blacken for 1 min. then rinse again with water. I would add to this make sure everything is completely dry between steps. In the pictures below you will see my Chemistry lab.
 
For the sharp eyed who look at the pictures you will notice that my bottle of Alcohol is dated 1962! And it came from a Civil Defense shelter. That is another story for the future. 
 
I also have a question for anyone familiar with this process. How do I dispose of the leftovers? This is a strong chemical and I don't want to just pour it down the drain.
 
I have had lots of fun blackening stuff for the Syren. I have found that I need about 1 min 20 seconds. But it works very well. Another great Idea from MSW.
 
Another comment I found in a build log was the observation that the copper tape is very thin and so you need a very smooth surface before you place the plates. I am not going to post a picture. But I have been filling and sanding several coats until it is so nice. 
 
Another suggestion I found was to use an X-Y table to drill the holes for the eye in the wooden parts of the Carronade sled. So I have first sanded off the laser char and painted these parts. Soon I will be drilling and inserting eye bolts. By the way this was the reason I decided to do my blackening. I needed blackened eye bolts. My ultimate goal was to get a carronade ready for the 3D printed prototype. Since i am not installing the waterway. I also need to know if I need to modify the height of the wheels at the back. I will post a picture of this as soon as I have it setup. 
 
Lastly I read a suggestion on how to paint and install the lettering for the stern. You will see a picture below as I have begun this process. Let me give you the steps here. First cut the lettering from the photo etched plate leaving the letters attached to the bottom. Then paint (I chose to use white). The attach to a scrap of wood that will fit between the stern molding using double sided tape. now cut the letters away from the sprue. They should now be face down on double sided tape attached to the scrap of wood. And they will be properly lined up with the correct spacing. Now apply a small amount of CA to each letter and press them into place on the stern. That is it! I can't wait to finish this step.
 
And finally if you are not bored yet. Here are the pictures. I was having some trouble with the macro on my camera so the lettering may be a bit blurred
 
 
 

Floyd have you thought about using a CNC machine to cut the Quarter Badges out of wood?  Copy them, clean them up and cut them out of some nice Maple, Teak or Sapele. Now that would be a big improvement over what is supplied in the kit. Every time I blacken something it just comes off during handling. Look forward to seeing you.

Now that the site is back up. I can see I have a lot to catchup on. (Thank you to all the admins)
 
By the way while on the subject of thanks. I have so many people on this site to thank, I don't know where to begin. I am sure I would not be modeling today if it were not for the wonderful people here and in my local club. So let me focus on the assistance and support I have received for this build and also bring you up to date on my progress. I am sorry I will not be able to mention the names of all the people who contributed to the great Ideas I have incorporated in my build. But let me try.
 
First, all of us in the Syren Club have been discussing the terrible condition of the Carronades supplied with the kit. There have been several suggestions on alternatives. Some very compelling. I have decided to go a slightly different direction. Let me list the alternative I am aware of and why I decided not to go that way.
 
Caldercraft supplied - These are the best available. But I did not like the idea of spending $80 and then having to make significant alterations.
Blue Jacket supplied - Not a good as Caldercraft & cheaper, but still better than MS. But still the same reasons apply.
Mold out of pewter - Very interesting. But I have no experience and I would still need to make the mold. Also there is the color to deal with.
Make with wood - Again I would need to tools or skills to carve or a lathe. But this is my mostly likely 2nd choice.
 
So I have decided with the help of my good friend Per to 3D print the prototype using Sketch-Up. I have recently found a workshop which will give me access to 3 printers, 2 CNC machines, & 2 Laser cutters for a very low price. I am excited to give it a try. And I will likely create a prototype with the printer. and from that create a mold. Stay tuned. by the way you will see further detail on this subject in the CAD forum.
 
So the next area of help is in the Copper plating. Like most of us at this stage I have been working to build my stamps and jig. Jim Rogers has kindly offered to loan me his jig and stamps. And he will even help me get started. So in a couple weeks I will be taking the ferry to see Jim!
 
So while waiting on coppering with Jim I was thinking about what else to work on in the mean time. I decided to set up my blackening lab again because of suggestions I found here. I purchased from Amazon a small bottle of Brass Black for $8.50. The instructions on the bottle say to clean first with Alcohol, rinse with water, then blacken for 1 min. then rinse again with water. I would add to this make sure everything is completely dry between steps. In the pictures below you will see my Chemistry lab.
 
For the sharp eyed who look at the pictures you will notice that my bottle of Alcohol is dated 1962! And it came from a Civil Defense shelter. That is another story for the future. 
 
I also have a question for anyone familiar with this process. How do I dispose of the leftovers? This is a strong chemical and I don't want to just pour it down the drain.
 
I have had lots of fun blackening stuff for the Syren. I have found that I need about 1 min 20 seconds. But it works very well. Another great Idea from MSW.
 
Another comment I found in a build log was the observation that the copper tape is very thin and so you need a very smooth surface before you place the plates. I am not going to post a picture. But I have been filling and sanding several coats until it is so nice. 
 
Another suggestion I found was to use an X-Y table to drill the holes for the eye in the wooden parts of the Carronade sled. So I have first sanded off the laser char and painted these parts. Soon I will be drilling and inserting eye bolts. By the way this was the reason I decided to do my blackening. I needed blackened eye bolts. My ultimate goal was to get a carronade ready for the 3D printed prototype. Since i am not installing the waterway. I also need to know if I need to modify the height of the wheels at the back. I will post a picture of this as soon as I have it setup. 
 
Lastly I read a suggestion on how to paint and install the lettering for the stern. You will see a picture below as I have begun this process. Let me give you the steps here. First cut the lettering from the photo etched plate leaving the letters attached to the bottom. Then paint (I chose to use white). The attach to a scrap of wood that will fit between the stern molding using double sided tape. now cut the letters away from the sprue. They should now be face down on double sided tape attached to the scrap of wood. And they will be properly lined up with the correct spacing. Now apply a small amount of CA to each letter and press them into place on the stern. That is it! I can't wait to finish this step.
 
And finally if you are not bored yet. Here are the pictures. I was having some trouble with the macro on my camera so the lettering may be a bit blurred
 
 
 

Now that the site is back up. I can see I have a lot to catchup on. (Thank you to all the admins)
 
By the way while on the subject of thanks. I have so many people on this site to thank, I don't know where to begin. I am sure I would not be modeling today if it were not for the wonderful people here and in my local club. So let me focus on the assistance and support I have received for this build and also bring you up to date on my progress. I am sorry I will not be able to mention the names of all the people who contributed to the great Ideas I have incorporated in my build. But let me try.
 
First, all of us in the Syren Club have been discussing the terrible condition of the Carronades supplied with the kit. There have been several suggestions on alternatives. Some very compelling. I have decided to go a slightly different direction. Let me list the alternative I am aware of and why I decided not to go that way.
 
Caldercraft supplied - These are the best available. But I did not like the idea of spending $80 and then having to make significant alterations.
Blue Jacket supplied - Not a good as Caldercraft & cheaper, but still better than MS. But still the same reasons apply.
Mold out of pewter - Very interesting. But I have no experience and I would still need to make the mold. Also there is the color to deal with.
Make with wood - Again I would need to tools or skills to carve or a lathe. But this is my mostly likely 2nd choice.
 
So I have decided with the help of my good friend Per to 3D print the prototype using Sketch-Up. I have recently found a workshop which will give me access to 3 printers, 2 CNC machines, & 2 Laser cutters for a very low price. I am excited to give it a try. And I will likely create a prototype with the printer. and from that create a mold. Stay tuned. by the way you will see further detail on this subject in the CAD forum.
 
So the next area of help is in the Copper plating. Like most of us at this stage I have been working to build my stamps and jig. Jim Rogers has kindly offered to loan me his jig and stamps. And he will even help me get started. So in a couple weeks I will be taking the ferry to see Jim!
 
So while waiting on coppering with Jim I was thinking about what else to work on in the mean time. I decided to set up my blackening lab again because of suggestions I found here. I purchased from Amazon a small bottle of Brass Black for $8.50. The instructions on the bottle say to clean first with Alcohol, rinse with water, then blacken for 1 min. then rinse again with water. I would add to this make sure everything is completely dry between steps. In the pictures below you will see my Chemistry lab.
 
For the sharp eyed who look at the pictures you will notice that my bottle of Alcohol is dated 1962! And it came from a Civil Defense shelter. That is another story for the future. 
 
I also have a question for anyone familiar with this process. How do I dispose of the leftovers? This is a strong chemical and I don't want to just pour it down the drain.
 
I have had lots of fun blackening stuff for the Syren. I have found that I need about 1 min 20 seconds. But it works very well. Another great Idea from MSW.
 
Another comment I found in a build log was the observation that the copper tape is very thin and so you need a very smooth surface before you place the plates. I am not going to post a picture. But I have been filling and sanding several coats until it is so nice. 
 
Another suggestion I found was to use an X-Y table to drill the holes for the eye in the wooden parts of the Carronade sled. So I have first sanded off the laser char and painted these parts. Soon I will be drilling and inserting eye bolts. By the way this was the reason I decided to do my blackening. I needed blackened eye bolts. My ultimate goal was to get a carronade ready for the 3D printed prototype. Since i am not installing the waterway. I also need to know if I need to modify the height of the wheels at the back. I will post a picture of this as soon as I have it setup. 
 
Lastly I read a suggestion on how to paint and install the lettering for the stern. You will see a picture below as I have begun this process. Let me give you the steps here. First cut the lettering from the photo etched plate leaving the letters attached to the bottom. Then paint (I chose to use white). The attach to a scrap of wood that will fit between the stern molding using double sided tape. now cut the letters away from the sprue. They should now be face down on double sided tape attached to the scrap of wood. And they will be properly lined up with the correct spacing. Now apply a small amount of CA to each letter and press them into place on the stern. That is it! I can't wait to finish this step.
 
And finally if you are not bored yet. Here are the pictures. I was having some trouble with the macro on my camera so the lettering may be a bit blurred
 
 
 

so I had a little time today and sanded down the hull a bit,   there are lots of natural imperfections in the hull planking, so I'll be using some wood filler.
 
I've had this jar of wood filler for 4 years and kept it in a ziplock bag in the refrigerator and its still usable.  it would normally dry out and be unusable within 1 month outside the fridge. 
 
I'll let the hull filler dry out for a 24 hours and then start sanding again

Ron - I have an update on my journey. As I mentioned I was trying to find a way to 3D print my Carronades on my Syren. I started by scanning the plans into Turbo CAD 64 bit. I would have used Sketchup but it did not have a tracing function. In the process of learning how to do this. I learned that first Turbo CAD did not have a tracing function. And 2nd as you mention, the tracing function is not very good anyway. But as part of my Research I joined a Forum on Turbo CAD to ask questions. One respondent asked me to post my JPG so he could see what I was trying to do. Yesterday I went back to the forum to see if there was any more suggestions. And I found that some one had taken my scan and created the 3d picture. Now all I need is his file and I can do my 3D print. It will also be a good chance to learn what he did.

A very proper Cleat Hitch. 

Thanks now if only my planking skill was as good.
 
One more gotcha I have discovered. If like me your gun ports are not high enough for both the water way and the swivel bracket. you may have to modify the wheels so that they are the right height. 

Ron - I have an update on my journey. As I mentioned I was trying to find a way to 3D print my Carronades on my Syren. I started by scanning the plans into Turbo CAD 64 bit. I would have used Sketchup but it did not have a tracing function. In the process of learning how to do this. I learned that first Turbo CAD did not have a tracing function. And 2nd as you mention, the tracing function is not very good anyway. But as part of my Research I joined a Forum on Turbo CAD to ask questions. One respondent asked me to post my JPG so he could see what I was trying to do. Yesterday I went back to the forum to see if there was any more suggestions. And I found that some one had taken my scan and created the 3d picture. Now all I need is his file and I can do my 3D print. It will also be a good chance to learn what he did.

Thanks Eric and Dan for the replies and kind words.
 
Not much progress to show tonight but what I did do was a nice change. My first attempt at stropping and rigging wooden blocks was a challenge and I hope I succeeded to some degree.
 
First I had to finish my wooden cleat to replace the cast metal one that came with the kit.
 

The one on the right is the metal one supplied in the kit. The one on the left is a plastic one that I had left over from my Daysailer build. The center one is the one I made from walnut.
 
I did not try to take any step by step pictures of the stropping ind rigging work. I was too wrapped up in the process being my first attempt but below are a couple of shots of the finished gun port rigging.
 

That's it for tonight I am off to bed.
 

Thanks guys!
 
Attaching the sails to the mast hoops is a little tedious (not difficult, and it doesn't take long, just something I don't particularly enjoy), so I decided to wait until I get both the fore topsail and main topsail installed, then I'll attach both of their hoops in one sitting.  I was all geared up to have that finished this week (only the fore topsail remains), but life has gotten in the way...maybe next week!

You got it! the fisherman is also known as the Staysail you describe. and Yes the rigging is unique. I spent lots of time in other references trying to learn about the rigging for this sail. The only thing I see is that you did not rig the Topsails to the sail rings on the topmast.
 
I would introduce you to our own Dr. Per (elsewhere on this site) But I would suggest that you have now reached the 4th stage of MSW disease and there is no Hope for you. LOL  
 
PS it is a life long Malady and You will enjoy.

You have a Date my friend! I will send you an email. I am currently building my copper plate stamp. 3 of my pins just broke off inside the wood. I have to start over. I might just take a look at yours to see how I can do better.

Jim - Wow nice job. You are just ahead of me. perfect you can help answer some questions. first how much of the roll of copper tape did you use? I Chuck's practicum he mentions that you may need part of a 2nd roll. @nd question - How did you cover the Keel? Fold the plate over and let it be covered by the false keel? Since we live so close to each other I should send you the cost of the ferry. come join us pleas at our next meeting. You would be a huge boost to me.

Thanks Dutchman, I hope you survived Christmas all right. Here is a "Gelukkig Nieuwjaar" back. (My Dutch has been a while so luckily I could check my spelling with your post just above...)
My internet was out for more than a week (just came back on today). A real estate company decided to put in a rather large for sale sign and severed a main telco line. Apparently it happens more often.
It's amazing how many nice discussions the admiral and I had with our sons once their gaming, facebook and internet movies/series options, etc. weren't available. We won't see them again for a while now.
Anyway, I have finished the deck and have attached some photo's to show the progress. I ended up adding some filler blocks next to the centre ones so I had somewhere to glue the planks onto. Had a bit of a sore wrist after drilling 900 odd holes and filling them with wax.
The result of the stain on the deck is much better than the hull. Still a little bit patchy in places but I'm very pleased with it.
I haven't warmed up to doing the copper plating just yet. I'm not sure how I am going to go, but I will soon find out with some practice.
 
 

You have a Date my friend! I will send you an email. I am currently building my copper plate stamp. 3 of my pins just broke off inside the wood. I have to start over. I might just take a look at yours to see how I can do better.

You can use mine if you like.

I use DesignCAD 2016 for general drawing and non 3D printing, and SketchUp for the 3D printing. You really need a good regular CAD program for going from drawings to ship frames etc. I use the 3D features of DesignCAD to check that the frames are "fair", and to double check other features.
 
For example: Here is my redrawing of an old out of production kit. The frames as shown in the original drawing are very incorrect for the aft frames! I don't even know how anyone built the original kit, unless the supplied frames differed greatly from those shown in the drawing. Here are the before and after frames:

The colored lines are what I got after using the 3D features to layout and draw waterlines.
 
Here is the 3D layout with waterlines drawn:
 

One thing that most of the CAD programs have, that SketchUp lacks is the ability to draw a smoothed curved line to match fixed points. With SketchUp you can draw straight lines between points, but not a smoothed curve. That is how I got the final frames. With the frames laid out in 3D I drew the curve between the frames and looked for dips or bulges. I then moved the offending points in or out until everything looked smooth. I the case of this boat I generated the aft frames using the fore frames, the deck outline, and the transom as data points to start. Now that I have good water lines, I can also generate intermediate frames, if desired.
 
If TurboCAD costs $150, check out DesignCAD, I think that it runs around $100. I've been using it, in various versions for the last 20 years or so. You definately what a 64 bit CAD.

I found this patina product on Amazon. Works great. Just brush it on. May take a few coats but so worth it

I used about 3/4 of the roll. I started doing individual plates but couldn’t keep it exactly lined up so I removed it all, maybe 10 plates. So I did 6 inch sections. The pattern makes individual plates uneeded in my opinion. For the keel I just folded the section of plate over. I drilled and pegged the false keel over the plate.  For the dressing band I did both Port and starboard patterns on each plate. Looks great. I bought individual plates from Model Shipways for the dressing band but (1) they were fat and chunky, (2) looked phony (3) you had to glue them on so probably messy. I wish you would have mentioned the waterway issue about two weeks ago. I am not tearing every out to fix it. Nobody knows but me anyhow so what the heck. Any time you get some time off you are more than welcome to come over to the Goat Locker Shipyard and Rock n’ Roll Emporium. 

Ron, 
open up the extension library, there are tons of add-ons for various "curves".
As for inspiration here is a yacht done in SketchUp

 
There are a lot of tutorials in this matter, Bing or Google it.
I found many doing so.