Blue Ensign

An interesting project Kriss, I think I'm going to like your approach to it. At 1:150 scale most detail can be included, full rigging, even the side tackles to the guns can be simulated. Helps if you've got young eyes and nimble fingers tho'

The finished model size fits easily in a domestic setting and even when cased is not too obtrusive, it is a scale I've great affection for.

Look forward to following your progress.

Cheers,

B.E.

Hi Ferit,

I've looked at contemporary models and many of the drawings of ship of the period by the Van de Velde's and they all seem to have enclosed  channels.

The great authority on the subject is Dr R.C. Anderson who writes in his book The Rigging of Ships In the days of the Spritsail Topmast 1600 - 1720. - Deadeyes in the period 1650 - 1720 (and afterwards) were set in slots on the outer edge of the channels and covering strips were nailed over them.

This appears to answer your question, but if you like the look of the exposed strops, then you could leave them off for demonstration purposes. Afterall they were only battens nailed on the edge of the channel.

Regards,

B.E.

Great photos kester, I just love the look of her

B.E.

Wonderful work Matti, that last shot shows off her sheer lines beautifully; love the colour you have achieved on the stern and topsides.

I think you are a 'natural' at this game

B.E.

Looking wonderful Ferit, love those shots of the Mizen top.

B.E.

I just love the stuff you design and build Chris, I just wish Amati would keep up with you in terms of producing the goods. I'm still eagerly awaiting your Elizabethan Galleon, as I'm keen  to revisited an earlier period.

My mouth has been watering so long it has now dried up! 

Regards,

B.E.

Thanks BE 

 

Quick(?) question -- how did your elongation of the main mast influence the calculation of the other mast/spar dimensions? I'm thinking that an elongated main would have to result in elongated fore and mizzen masts. But did it influence your calculation of the dimensions of the topmasts and topgallants and the yards as well? Or did you calculate these in some other way?

 

My Lees is the 1979 first printing....which explains the difference! 

hamilton

I worked out all the upper masts  and yards relative to the correct proportions, as given in Steel, it all starts with the Main topmast relative to the overall true length of the mainmast.

For the Main mast I then allowed an extra length at the presumed partners where all the quartering and tapering starts, and then added the actual length of dowel below decks to fit the kit arrangement. The Fore and Mizen masts followed the same  procedure and proportions relative to the Mainmast.

This gave me the leeway to make final adjustments from the bottom of the masts to suit my eye. From the one reference I had in the Swan book relating to the Foremast the drawing would suggest from an overall length of mast of 56' with just over 19' below the partners to the keel.

This left 36.75' or 175mm at scale, looking far too short in relation to the model. My actual length which sits well with my eye is 242mm which has it happens is only 6mm longer than the kit plan! rather annoying really.

B.E.

My edition of Lees is the 1984 revised edition and runs to 212 pages. No matter all the relevant information is in the Goodwin book.

The main problem I had, in relation to Steel in my case, was working out the below decks lengths, which in the kit are not true as the masts sit in the false keel and bear no relation to actual lengths between the keel and partners at the Upper deck level. When I took a scale deduction from the one drawing given in the Swan ffm book the mast seemed to come up far too short above decks so for this reason I left the masts over long to start with, and used mock ups to judge the final height.

B.E.

I have a Proxxon MF70 and have no trouble using cutters down to 0.6mm for slotting etc; I use my mill primarily for wood also.

B.E.

Hi hamilton, the dimensions given by Goodwin in his Blandford book are the same as given in Table 5 of Lees relating to the 1719 Establishment (p196) ie 68' 6".

The figures given on Table 8 relating to the 1773 establishment (p198) are 67' 11". as near as makes no matter.

If you look at Section G in the Goodwin book you will see he gives the length of the masts below the partners (taken at the Upper deck level for single decked ships) in the case of the mainmast this is 14' 6" equivalent to 44mm at scale. You are really interested in the height above the partners which is easily calculated. To this you only need add the actual below decks length on your model to get the overall scale length.

I would suggest you mock up  the lower masts and see how they look to your eye before  before committing to the real thing.

B.E.

I'm with Augie and Dirk, just love your build Thomas.

B.E.

The repair looks good Mark, and I don't think it will be apparent as the build progresses.

I would also like to add my sympathy for the loss of your Dog, we have been thro' it four times over the years and it doesn't get any easier.

The hurt will ease, and you will be left with fond memories of your time together.

Regards,

B.E.

Boxwood planking, Holly decks, sounds marvellous, time to get on with it Bob.

In anticipation

B.E.

Just enjoyed reading thro' your log Jason, a very attractive build. Now if only I can produce something like that in 1:64 scale, I'll be a happy man

Cheers,

B.E.

Blimey Timmo, wonderful work, I agree with Alistair she has all the look of a contemporary eighteenth century model.

Just love what you're doing with her.

B.E.

Love that last series of deck shots Jason, she's looking mighty fine

B,E,

Hello Pawel, i wish you luck with your new project.

As far as coppering is concerned  it is of course largely down to personal choice, but Pandora was first coppered in May 1779 and was re- sheathed in1789, presumably before her mission to recover the Bounty Mutineeers.

Treenails are a tricky one, they would be very small indeed at 1:85 scale, in fact they are barely visible at 1:1 scale, but again it is a matter of choice whether to go down that route. Personally I wouldn't bother at scales less than 1:48.

I don't know if you can get it but the AotS series book The 24 gun Frigate Pandora by John McKay and Ron Coleman, originally published by Conway maritime Press, may be of help to you. (ISBN 0 85177 894 1)

B.E.

That's impressive work, getting the subtle curves and fineness of the head rails is difficult at any scale and using timber, even flexible beech, at 1:100 scale is a severe test.

I would certainly have approached the job with a fair degree of trepidation, and probably cheated looking at styrene strip as a substitute if the finished job were to be painted.

On my Pegasus build I used lining strip as masking to create the blue panels on the head timbers.

Cheers,

B.E.

I think it is rather optional and down to personal preference. In practice probably much of the running rigging was taken down with the sails but my preference and  approach is to include Bunt and Leech lines, and Bowlines on bare stick models.

The Bunt and leech lines are knotted and pulled up to the yard blocks before feeding thro' the lead blocks and to the deck.

The Bowlines I attach by their bridles to the yards.

B.E.

Hi Aldo, I've been looking in on your Triton build although perhaps not fully understanding all the finer technical adjustments you have sought to make. Now I can see the lower hull planked I can appreciate the hard work you have put in to achieve the very nice lines.

Well done

M

Looks good Timmo, and it does make the carved work stand out, like the wood colouring.

Cheers,

B.E.

Impressive work Matti, particularly as it is your first pob build, and a bb kit to boot, not the easiest kits, I know  - I built Norske Love.

You have created a fine log for the build of Vasa, and I love your colour toning, another great build I now have to follow to the detriment of geting on with my own stuff.

Cheers,

B.E.

Glad you like it Jason, your comments are much appreciated.

I see your avatar is of Olympia a kit I have in waiting. Had a peek at your builds and will return to savour them. Thank you for the f/b link  - I have been gathering info on her for some time in anticipation of my build, and have added it to my f/b page.

Cheers Frank, nice to hear from you again.

Thanks for looking in Matti, and for your kind words, interesting build of Vasa you have there, I'm off for a closer look.

Cheers Guys,

B.E.

A nice bit of scratching there hamilton, the decks are gaining interest as all the fitting are put into place.

It is worth repeating this is a small ship at only 1:100 scale, not easy making convincing fittings at that size.

Cheers,

B.E.

Looking good both inboard and outboard Jason, nice run of carronades along the deck.

Cheers,

B.E.