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Blue Ensign

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  1. Blue Ensign
    I think they were used on the Foc'sle to frame the area around the central openings for the steam gratings / chimney, but I agree they did not seem to feature on the Quarterdeck framing due to the less weight borne by that deck, compared to the Upper deck. B.E.
  2. Blue Ensign
    Thankyou Mugje and Theo. @ Theo - Deck ledges are narrower timbers that run between the carlings athwartships. 2095 2094 These pics show a mock up of how they were fitted. In reality they were let into the carlings, but ran flush with the deck beam cambers. B.E.
  3. Blue Ensign
    Hi Tony, I use equal amounts of varnish and white spirit mixed together. Wipe it on, and immediately wipe it off for initial protection, apply further coats for a deeper colour. B.E.
  4. Blue Ensign
    Post Eighty Knees Three full days’ work sees the completion of the Fo’csle deck framing. There are four styles of knees used on the foc’sle and waist, many of them location specific. Each needs cleaning and painting prior to use, and I found a sanding band/ mandrel made quick work of removing heavy char from these small fittings. I used a Proxxon 60/EF drill for the purpose, but any other similar tool (Dremel) would serve equally well. Once cleaned and painted, Plan sheet 4 gives the location for fitting, and I’m good to go. The phrase ‘good to go’ belies the very fiddly process of fitting these knees. 1369 I start at the Bow and once the fore-most Lodging knees are fitted the fun begins. 1368 I attend to the Hanging knees first, some of these are referred to as ‘dummy’ and are a fore shortened version to avoid fouling gun-ports. I fitted these first. 2080 As I expected fitting proved tricky, the full-length knees even more problematical, getting the vertical arm and horizontal knee to match the deck beam and quickworks was a tad trying to say the least. 2081 I found it necessary to adjust the angle of the knee where it joins the deck beam. I took the approach of fitting the bulwark part and then trimming the knee angle to lie flush with the deck beam. 2079 The remaining Lodging knees which proved far less trouble, fitted neatly between the beam and hanging knee. 1366 I am not adding the Ledges that fit between the carlings and knees as these would obscure a lot of the view, which would defeat my purpose. 1372 I think the addition of these fittings adds immensely to the look of a ‘Navy Board’ style model. 2083 The paintwork took a hit during fitting, but I will attend to this once the larger exercise of fitting the Qtr deck is completed. B.E. 20/09/2023
  5. Blue Ensign
    Hi Dave, I think I thinned it to the consistency of skimmed milk and applied it quickly using a broad chisel brush. I too use silkspan, or modelspan as it is now called as it has good strength qualities. Use of a hairdryer once applied, eliminates any risk of puddling, but the beauty of Silk/modelspan is that it can be re-wetted multiple times, particularly useful for sail shaping on the model. B.E.
  6. Blue Ensign
    You're welcome, and thanks for looking in on my build, glad you found it of use. B.E.
  7. Blue Ensign
    Post Seventy-nine Foc’sle (Part 2) 2073 The Foc’sle beams are fixed into place. 2074 Temporary props are used to support the breast beam whilst the carlings set. 2070 2067 The foremost beam of the Foc’sle deck is an mdf version, originally designed to incorporate the Bowsprit step. To match the other beams, the top was faced with 0.6mm pear. With the beams now fixed I move onto the Hanging and lodging knees. This is a prep intensive exercise with char removal, painting, and fettlin’ to fit. Those opting to fully deck the model need have little concern for such detail, as it will all be covered, but I would probably have done them anyway, given that Chris has taken the trouble to provide them. B.E. 17/09/2023
  8. Blue Ensign
    Post Seventy-eight Foc’sle More cleaning up of heavy char and a dry fit of the Foc’sle beams. 2056 2063 2064 2065 The beams and carlings slot easily into place, less trouble than the Qtr deck. Hopefully the Foc’sle breast beam will stiffen up once it is glued into place and the carlings added. Another round of painting now ensues, followed by the addition of hanging and lodging knees. Chris has kindly provided the lodging knees with the Indy kit, which saves me the tiresome task of making them as I did with the Sphinx build. Thanks Chris.👍 B.E. 16/09/2023
  9. Blue Ensign
    A fine job on building the hull ECK, well done👍 B.E.
  10. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Theo, A lot of praise should go to Chris whose designs and thoughtful build methods make us all look good, or at least better than we would otherwise. Chuck has a similar effect with his designs, and clear build processes. Even so, below that smooth surface, I’m churning water, and catch myself clenching my teeth working on the trickier bits. If I have a quality, it is a determination to slow down on a build and fight against the ‘that’ll do’ approach. I do strive to improve my builds, not always with full success, but I’m a lot harder on myself than I used to be. I see the same approach in your work. B. E.
  11. Blue Ensign
    Post seventy-seven Waist Beams This section completes the framing over the waist. 1286 1285 2028 The beams slotted into place without issue. I’m glad I made the decision to replace the beam supports over the head ledges with ‘iron’ stanchions on my particular build. The shipyard is now closing for a week. Cheers, B.E. 08/09/2023.
  12. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Ron, I hadn’t thought of that layout, I’ll be playing around with various options using card templates before I commit. I need to make up an example of the carronades and 12 pounder long to see how they impact on the deck space. As far as photo distortion is concerned, it’s not reflected on the actual model, so I’m not overly concerned. B.E.
  13. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Mugje, the top faces still need a final clean as much of it will be left uncovered. The Lodging knees are yet to be fitted. The framing is much the same as on your Sphinx build, which I couldn't bear to cover up either. Cheers, B.E.
  14. Blue Ensign
    Simply magnificent Marc, what a display of artistry👏 B.E.
  15. Blue Ensign
    Post Seventy-six Carlings These slot beautifully into the beam mortises. 2002 I use clamps to ensure they sit right down once glue is applied. 2005 Only the outer carlings, adjoining the breast beam, were a tad slack in the fit, and needed a little fettlin’. 2022 2021 The more I look at this framework, the less I want to cover it up. 2023 It will be an interesting exercise to work out how I can use the minimum planking to the best effect. As I move on forward of the Qtr deck I had a change of heart about using the kit provided pillars atop the head ledges. 2006 They somehow look out of place, maybe because I raised and cambered the head ledges. 2016 2017 From this point on I decided to use ‘iron’ stanchions, they suited my eye better for this position. I will continue to use the provided pillars for the deck located beam supports. Moving onto the Foc'sle framing. B.E. 06/09/2023
  16. Blue Ensign
    No warpage.
  17. Blue Ensign
    Post Seventy-five Fitting the Qtr deck beams With the Qtr deck beams painted, fitting can begin. 1997 Slow and careful is the order of the day. Moving from aft forward each beam is test fitted before gluing, and the central support pillars gradually trimmed to height to fit beneath the beams without forcing the camber. 1998 Constant checking is a necessity. If plan sheet 3 is used to aid location, there is a note to leave beam 14 off until part 103 (Carling) is fitted. This would be a mistake as it would prove very difficult if not impossible to retro fit 14 after the following beams have been fitted. Section 373 of the manual provides an alternative and more practical solution. 1991 I had a brief moment of panic fitting the final deck beam of the set (No9). I was expecting that it would be fully supported by the Main Jeer Bitt standards. Not so, it only catches the forward edge.(by design) 1989 The final beam is the Qtr deck breast beam supported at its centre by the Main Topsail sheet Bitts standards. Before fitting I gave it the heat treatment secured over the former, to ensure the camber was properly set. 1993 1999 1996 The Capstan barrel extends down to the lower deck and will be trimmed to height once the Upper capstan is seated on the QD step. 1995 I do like the shaped breast beam of these Ardent class ships. 1994 The final step will be to add the carlings. B.E. 05/09/2023
  18. Blue Ensign
    Post Seventy-four Stanchions on my mind I wasn’t really satisfied with my pillar conversion, so I had a play around with metal. 1969 Using square brass tubing (2.3mm) with the original wooden pillar tab inserted, I formed the foot of the stanchion. 1.5mm square section brass was used for the stanchion, ca’d into the top of the foot. 1971 1974 Chemically blackened, they provide a stronger contrast to the wooden support pillars. 1975 I think they look more representative of ‘iron’ stanchions. I will finish the top end brackets once I have the determined the correct height, as I fit the deck beams. The kit ladderway stanchions (or newels)are represented by brass etched posts with an eye, thro’ which line is threaded. On my builds from Pegasus onwards I have passed over kit stanchions in favour of something more stylish. For the stanchions I am using the same system I adopted for Pegasus, which was based on the detail in the fffm Vol 11. 6989(2) The makings involve having donor stanchions, the ones I use are 0.9mm ø with a 1.3mm finial. For the rings 0.3mm eyelets, (Caldercraft) are used, and 0.5mm ø brass rod for the rails. 1253 A spot of silver soldering is required to bring it all together. Silver solder paste in two melt points 690º and 671º are required. 7044 Full details of the procedure can be found in my Pegasus log (page 4 – post 91) but I used the same process on my Sphinx build (above) 1983 Main ladderway. 1986 Aft Ladderway. 1987 Main Hatch ladderway. Forward to the Qtr deck beams. B.E. 03/09/2023
  19. Blue Ensign
    Post Seventy-three Back to the decks. Pre-occupied with the deck beams I nearly forgot about the gundeck ironwork. The kit provides etched eyebolts for the Training (relieving) tackle connection. These should strictly be ringbolts and I used 2mm rings and Amati fine eyebolts to make up the required number running along the deck binding strakes. 1950 For the first three sets aft of the Riding Bitts I have used 3mm rings to represent the stopper bolts. Apart from any other consideration ring bolts look nicer when looking down on the deck of a model. There is then the shaped deck support pillars and in particular those within the area of the Capstan. 1956 There are four within the radius of the Capstan bars which even with a modest scale 9’ length would impede movement. I think these would more likely be hinged iron supports that could be lifted out of the way when the capstan was in use. 1963 I have modified the pillars to represent such items, and which from the available viewing point would probably pass muster, at least to a blind man on a galloping horse. 1958 1967 I still may re-visit the iron stanchions and try a 1mm ø brass tube version. B.E. 31/08/2023
  20. Blue Ensign
    Happy Birthday Kevin, you mean you have something better to do than ship modelling.😉 B.E.
  21. Blue Ensign
    Looking good Kevin, add weights to those pendants and coat them with pva, it will help them hang straight, and impart a more realistic 'heaviness' to them. B.E.
  22. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Glenn, I'd better look in on your Winnie and see how it should be done, before I go much further.😊 B.E.
  23. Blue Ensign
    It is Nipper, in my opinion they are the trickiest sections that can make or break the look of a model. Always a relief when those two tasks have been completed, hopefully with satisfaction. Post Seventy-two Quarter deck beams This section starts with yet another not very exciting task, that of prepping the Qtr deck beams. These are nicely proportioned Pearwood beams with the necessary camber and containing the slots for the carlings. These need careful cleaning up as they are heavily charred on the top and bottom surfaces. The danger is that with the camber it would be all too easy to put too much pressure on a beam resulting in breakage. 1936 Soft hands are required for this job, and I use a cambered former to support the beam during cleaning of the top surface. 1935 I begin by scraping, using a scalpel blade to remove the heavy char, it would soon clog a sandpaper. 1938 Fitting the beams is a slow business with great care needed to avoid breaking the tabs off the beam ends. 1939 The aftermost deck beam is fitted first. A tricky exercise involving cutting away sections of the mdf frames both sides and sanding the ends of the beam. I found that the recesses at either end of the beam needed a lot of fettlin’ in order to sit right down on the beam housing. Note: Were I starting this section again I would have trial fitted the beams before I set the gun carriages in place. I found that I had to remove sections of all the mdf frames to get placement of the beams without the risk of stress both to the beams and myself. My veneer saw proved useful for this task. The forward beam at the break of the Qtr Deck has a classic curved design typical of the Ardent class of ships. 1941 Chris has designed a former over which to shape the laminated beam to give it the proper camber. I will retain this little jig, it has potential for use on other projects. 1943 1945 The forward beam sits perfectly over the Main bitt standards. 1946 The final check is to confirm the beams are seated properly and present a level surface across all points. Two days work on this task, I can now remove the beams for a final cleaning up and painting. B.E. 30/08/2023
  24. Blue Ensign
    Post Seventy-one I’m now at the six-month stage of this build, altho’ I’m a fair way behind those of my fellow Indy builders who started around the same time. A photo set to mark this milestone point. 1912 1915 1918 1916 1917 1919 1920 1923 The gun barrels are only temporarily in place. 1931 1932 The heavy construction element has now been completed. There should be a lot less clutter and dust around from this point on. I am now getting close to the stage of a build that I enjoy best. B.E. 29/08/2023
  25. Blue Ensign
    Post Seventy Bits and pieces Lots of bits and pieces to add at this stage, guard stanchions around the hatches, shot to the garlands, and the gun carriages to secure along the hull. 1891 1910 I also decided to repaint and weather the guns, I could still detect those longitudinal striations given certain light and angles. 1902 What fun it is to fit the shot into the garlands. Lively little beggars, pinging around the deck, bouncing down the ladderways never to be seen again, but most certainly heard. 1901 I found using these broad nose plastic tweezers gave me the best success. The stanchions As with other ‘ironwork’ I prefer to chemically blacken. 1895 I try to ensure that any tabs from the fret are completely removed from the stanchions before this process. This macro reveals three examples requiring more attention. Gun carriages. I secured these using 1mm brass wire thro’ the bed and into the deck. 1892 An Archimedean drill is perfect for this job. 1894 At this point the carriages are all secured. I used ca on either end of the wire. 1906 I think a general tidy-up is called for before I move on. B.E. 27/08/2023

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