Blue Ensign

Post One Hundred and Forty-six Thinking about Masts For a change of focus I have turned my attention to the fitting of masts, or stump versions thereof. At this point I need to determine the overall height of the model so I can order the display case. My masts will finish below the hounds but will include those elements that would appear on the length displayed. These will include the wooldings, Cheeks, Front fish, and iron hoops. 3711 I start with the Mainmast as this will determine the length of the other masts, and I first need to decide what overall height looks best. They need to look proportionate, but I am conscious that the taller they are the bigger the case requirement. 3716 In Chris’s design the Mainmast has a set of nine wooldings with eight iron hoops between. The iron hoops fit beneath the Front fish and cheeks, and the wooldings over both cheeks and fish. 3720 Gauging the relative heights. 3722 The Mainmast now sits around 15” above the stand with the Fore and Mizen reduced proportionately. 3724 I use only Ramin dowel for the lower masts, 12mm, 10mm, and 8mm. 08070 Once treated with w-o-p the colour takes on a warm ochre tone as shown here on my Sphinx build. Not included on the kit plans for either Sphinx or ‘Indy’ are the wooden hoops top and bottom of the wooldings that secure them in place. B.E. 18/02/2024

Hi Yves, This is how I dealt with the Ensign staff on my Pegasus build. 068 The truck was fitted with two sheaves. This is a schematic of how I attached the Ensign. Hope it helps. B.E.

You've developed a great range of smaller naval ships Chris, including cutters for every taste. A re-vitalised Sherbourne is an excellent choice. I may well be tempted as I inexorably move towards my dotage. Well done! B.E.

Thank you Nils, but every time I do a set of macro's I see another little area needing attention, but getting there by degrees. B.E.

Post One Hundred and Forty-five Stern Lanterns A pair of Resin lanterns are provided in the kit with Brass etch brackets. Pre-cut acetate glazing that only requires folding to shape, completes the package. Beautifully crafted, but my initial impression was that they looked a tad on the small size, but I needed to see them on the model. 3685 The plan is used to get the line of the crank. 3686 Assembly is simple, the tricky part if it can be called that, is fitting the ironwork to the stern gallery, particularly when you have lost track of the fixing holes.🙄 3688 I found it easier to use longer lengths of 0.8mm brass wire to form and fit the cranks. 3690 The only addition I made are fixing plates to the stern. Apart from that I had to file the bottom of the clear glazing a tad to allow the lantern tops to sit down on the framing. 3694 Is my initial impression that they may be a little undersized borne out? Perhaps not when compared to the contemporary model of Amazon below. Amazon Stern I could not find original records relating the ships lantern sizes by rate, and of course I’m not privy to the information used as a basis for the ‘Indy’ Lanterns. I did check out relative sizes from my available sources, and for what it’s worth this is what I gleaned. Victory - side lantern 57½” o/a height (22.8mm at 1:64 scale) Bellona – 62½” o/a height (24.8mm at 1:64) scale drawing AotS book. Pandora – 40¼” o/a height (16.0mm at 1:64) scale drawing AotS book. Leopard (50 gun ship 1790) - 53” o/a height (21mm at 1:64) Scale drawing John McKay from The 50-Gun Ship. Sixth rate sloop– 51” o/a height (20.25mm at 1:64) scale drawing FFM Sixth rate book from a reconstruction. Indefatigable – 44” o/a height (17.5mm at 1:64 scale) - actual kit fitting. Another option is the exquisite Boxwood lantern 3/16th (1:64) scale from Syren. This measures 7/8th" (22.25mm) which equates to a 56” o/a height. 1827 I used this on my Pegasus build, and I think it is a viable option for ‘Indy’. 3704 On balance I think I will stick with the kit version. 3702 3697 Onwards, B.E. 16/02/2024

Post One Hundred and Forty-four Strops, Chains, and Plates. (Part two) The brass etched chains and plates are very nicely made and scaled, and as with the strops took the blackening well. There are two main considerations in fitting the chains and plates. 1. The angle; they should follow the line of the shroud or stay to which they relate. 2. The middle and lower links of the chains should be taut when drilling the hole in the hull where they are fixed by the Preventer Plate. I used a 0.4mm ø drill for the fixing holes and blackened pins as supplied with the kit. A pin pusher was used to drive the pins home, I found glue was unnecessary. 1864a 1866a 1868a My only diversion from the kit plan is in respect of the backstays on the Mizen stool. 1869a I shortened the upper link for the Mizen Topmast backstay and used a smaller version of the lower link. (left over from a previous build) 1871a A smaller 2.5mm deadeye was used for the Mizen T’gallant Backstay. I made a new combined strop and strap from some 0.5mm brass wire, silver soldered for the strap. This allows the deadeye to sit as per the Adm plan. 1872a When it comes to the Deadeye iron work Chris has done a great job, the plans and drawings clearly identify the relevant parts and their fixing points.👍 B.E. 14/02/2024

That foremost Catharpin doesn't look right to me Glenn, severely chafing against the mast. As I understand it catharpins were not applied to the foremost shrouds for that very reason. Starting with the ninth shroud(aft) I think alternative fixings to the 7th, 5th, and 3rd shrouds are a more likely arrangement. I know the plans show the catharpins attached to the first shroud but I don't think that is correct. 1619 As you can see here on Victory, they don't extend to the first two shrouds and clear the back of the mast. B.E.

Post One Hundred and Forty-three Strops, Chains, and Plates. (Part One) Time consuming items, even before assembly starts. Removing from the fret, sorting the various components, prepping for chemical blackening, and the process itself. 3626 It helps to have a system to speed up the job and to avoid mixing up the parts. There are a lot of individual items to be blackened, which are done in batches per side. My procedure: Clean with fine steel wool. Acid dip and rinse. Immerse in diluted blackening fluid. My preference is for Carr’s Metal black for brass. Rinse Buff and repeat to taste. 3628 3630 Using the above system the strops blackened quickly and following a buff required very little re-treatment. 3631 The strops fit beautifully thro’ the channel slots without any need for adjustment. Fitting the Deadeyes into the strops is done with care to reduce the risk of scarring the blackened strops. 3634 These pliers are perfect for the job. 3644 3636 3652 For the aftermost strop on the Mizen stool which is for the T’gallant Backstay I have replaced the 3mm deadeye arrangement with a 2.5mm size, to better reflect the lighter line. 3654 The T’gallant Backstay is of 2½” circ. This equates to a scale diameter of 0.3mm, compared to 0.5mm ø for the 4”circ Topmast backstays. 3656 The smaller version dispenses with links and chains and is fixed directly to the hull adjacent to the roof line. This accords with the Official Adm plan. One additional benefit is that there is no need to try and cram an additional chain fixing in the very small space between the gallery lights and the aftermost gunport. Two full days have been spent on the starboard side thus far, but a race it ain’t. The second stage is fixing the chains and Preventer plates to secure the strops. Hoping that the Preventer plates fall right on my build.🤞 B.E. 10/02/2024

Your Alert is looking wonderful, a credit to your skill and perseverance. I first came across the 'false' splice many years ago from Gil Middleton's superb Caldercraft Victory build. It is a really useful technique, that I thoroughly endorse. B.E.

I think rigged to the point you have her now makes for a nice display option, I always like the 3/4 bow shot angle when masted and rigged with lower shrouds. B.E.

Post One Hundred and Forty-two Back to the head The stump Bowsprit has been secured in place. I like to add fittings to the Bowsprit as far as its length permits. Gammoning For a Sixty-four, rope of 7”circ is required, scaling to 0.88mm ø. 3597 The first job is to determine the position of the gammoning cleats. 3598 The kit provided cleats (M73) looked a little undersize to my eye, so I remade the five required from some Boxwood section. The line I used Syren 0.88mm ø line dyed with Colon dark Jacobean oak wood dye, which is my go-to for standing rigging. I have never been keen on kit provided black line. 3604 It is important to ensure that enough line is taken to complete the turns and frapping. I allowed 60” to complete the job, I had 12” left over, which is just about right. The gammoning starts thro’ an eye splice on the Port side, and the line twists as it passes from fore to aft with each turn. Steel refers to cross turns of the frapping. when all the turns are passed, and hove tight, they are frapped together in the middle, by as many cross turns as are passed over the bowsprit, each turn hove tight: the end of the gammoning rope is then whipt, and seized to one of the turns. the frapping increases the tension; and adds to the security acquired by the purchase. Horse One of the features of the head almost entirely missing from kits is the iron (Horse) a rail that runs between the Main rail fore and aft supported by an iron stanchion. The horse hooks into eyebolts in the main Rail. 3607 Often this has netting strung along it as a safety feature. 3608 I like to add this fitting, fairly simple, if you have the makings. I use lengths of 0.7mm brass rod, and eyebolts and stanchions from the kit. Boomkins These simple to make fittings proved not so simple to fit. Secured adjacent to the knightheads at the bow they run in a downwards direction where they are secured by a capsquare as they cross the False Rail. 3613 My problem is that they are obstructed by the seats of ease which I needed to modify slightly to give clearance. Still work to do, the recess for the Boomkin needs adjusting for the angle, and there are capsquares to make. At last, I can put the impressive figure into place. 3615 3617 3619 6320 3621 3624 The Head is all but done now, back to the repetitive task of deadeye stropping and chainplate fixing. B.E. 08/02/2024

You’re making a fine job of her TJM, very nice work.👍 B.E.

Cheers Håkan, I certainly didn't have you in mind for this rare offer of rigging blocks😉 Post One Hundred and Forty-0ne From this point in the build I will be jumping around attending to bits and pieces as takes my fancy. One of the areas I thought could do with some enhancement is the gangway from the Poop to the Qtr deck. Prototype build photo. Beautifully crafted by James, but the kit arrangement seems to be a simplification having a couple of stanchions on the gangway with a rope guard leading down to the Qtr deck. This doesn’t reflect the more substantial arrangements in the 18th century as demonstrated on several contemporary models. To my eye there is an awkward gap between the Poop waist rail and the aftermost stanchion. 3569 3579 I made up newel posts from some Pear section and rails from 3mm pear strip. 3587 I have decided to varnish the newels and Poop rail posts rather than paint them. 3590 3592 3594 I think the arrangement looks more appropriate for a ship of this stature. B.E. 06/02/2024

Post One Hundred and Forty Thinking about Deadeyes The rigging on Indy is that of a Sixty-four, I understand that initial use of lesser rated masting and rigging proved unsuccessful. By reference to Steel, a Sixty-four had Deadeye sizes given as: Fore and Mainmast shrouds 16”, TM Backstays 10”, and T’gallant Backstays 6” Mizen mast shrouds 10” TM Backstays 8”, T’gallant Backstays 4” thimbles. The Indy Adm plan shows a deadeye. These equate to scale sizes of 6.35mm, 4mm, 3.2mm, and 2.4mm. The kit includes three sizes of Deadeye; 7mm, 5mm, and 3mm. 3561 These look good on the model, and I like that the delineation between the deadeyes for the shrouds and two sizes of Backstays. I am not sufficiently moved to start looking around for closer matches to Steel, but I may substitute a 2.5mm deadeye for the Mizen T’gallant backstay. The kit Deadeyes are the standard version, Walnut I think, but they are cleanly formed with evenly set holes. I can detect very little difference to the Pear versions except for the colour. 3566 I actually like the colour of the standard version, seems to suit my model. In my case there was little point in going for the more expensive Pear version as I wouldn’t be rigging the model. The standard rigging blocks are a different story; 3568 Not all modelers will be concerned by this sort of detail, but for me these belong to a bygone modelling age, blocky, single hole affairs not worthy of using on a kit of Vanguard quality. If the model is to be rigged then the Pear version will cost you an extra £140, a worthwhile expense in my opinion. Spoiling the ship for a ha’porth of tar comes to mind. Anyone want some bags of rigging blocks before I bin them? B.E. 05/02/2024

Post One Hundred and Thirty-nine Channels I made up the channels and trial fitted back in January (Post 127). 3194 Now that the inboard fittings have been done this is an opportune time to complete the job. 3543 Small weights are used to maintain the level until the glue sets. 3546 The brackets are added before painting, the underside of the channels were painted before fitting. 3548 3552 3555 3556 3560 A final tidy-up of the Topsides can now be done. B.E. 04/02/2024

Back in 2017 I used an ebony strip to represent the 'False' keel applied over the coppering. B.E.

Post One Hundred and Thirty-eight Poop Deck I had assembled the Mizen Bitts and Skylight earlier in the build, and they are now added, along with the Poop breast rail. 3531 3535 3539 Note: Before you fit the Mizen Bitts check the plans; don’t go by the Manual photos, they will lead you astray. Flag Lockers These have a nicely crafted core of brass etch sections that slot together seamlessly. An outer skin of laser cut Pear complete the units. 3540 I wasn’t overkeen on the engraved boarding on the top so I added a lead sheathing for ‘weather protection’. 3537 At this point the lead hasn’t been weathered, as I did with the Gallery roof. 3538 Not much more to do on the Poop, but I did think about the fittings for an Ensign Staff. The kit doesn’t include the fittings and few contemporary models show them. I don’t have any specific evidence for the type used on ‘Indy’, but I think she would have had them. These items are provided with the Sphinx kit, but a simple Cap-square and step for the staff would be fairly easy to make. Onto the Channels. B.E. 02/02/2024

Thank you rlwhitt, In the UK I obtained the ball bearings from a company called Simply Bearings. as per link below. 2.5mm Diameter Grade 1000 Hardened 1010 Carbon Steel Ball Bearings Simply Bearings Ltd They are certainly consistent and available in various sizes. I'm sure you must have similar suppliers in the USA. Regards, B.E.

Post One Hundred and Thirty-Seven Qtr deck Fittings. (Part six.) All that remains to do is the QD rail, and ladders to the Upper deck. The carronades can then be put into place. Quarterdeck Breast rail. 3503 This classically shaped rail for ships of this era is fairly straightforward to fit until the top slotted rail is fitted over the stanchions. 3509 This is a 0.6mm delicate rail thro’ which the Hammock cranes are fitted into the base. I found careful and gentle fettling of both rail and Crane was necessary to ensure that the cranes fitted thro’ without stress and risk of breaking the rail. I took the precaution of drilling out the fitting holes for an easier fit. The cranes should fit flush with the top. 3507 3515 The Cranes were used to align the capping rail but will be fitted later. They are notorious snag magnets. 3516 3519 3521 3522 3523 Movin’ aft to the Poop. B.E. 31/01/2024

Thank you Tom, kind words indeed, but I don’t think me in particular, or us Brits in general have a monopoly on detailing, not given the wonderful work on MSW from members worldwide, including many from our former colony in the Americas.😉 Regards, B.E.

Post One Hundred and Thirty-Six Inboard fittings (Part five.) Work continues on the Quarterdeck. 3472 Tiller ropes have been added to the ships wheel together with a representation of the sliding feet. The quarterdeck ladderway and associated items are the last centre line fitting to attend to. 3465 Not one of my favourite jobs assembling these delicate parts, but they are nice examples once the job is successfully achieved. 3467 3469 I have taken the opportunity to fine down the tops of the Head ledges where they meet the coamings of the after hatchways, something that has been annoying me for a while. The model has adopted hinged covers to the ladderway, a direct take from the NMM Amazon model. As far as I know the Amazon is the only contemporary model to show this feature, but without this facility working the Upper Capstan would prove very difficult. Otherwise, I suppose temporary Boards could be fitted when the Capstan was in use. The kit offering is a laser engraved Pear item with brass etched hinges. 3470 One of my pet dislikes in ship modelling is bent over eyebolts to represent ring handles. I replaced these with ring bolts. Another small addition to the covers is a rebate added to one cover for the other to sit on when closed. You will note that the Amazon model has iron stanchions around the ladderway. The kit doesn’t indicate use of these which is a little odd as all the other ladderways on the gundeck have them. I added stanchions using the same method as for the Gun-deck. 3477 They are made from ball headed steel pins of 0.9mm ø with a 1.3mm finial. For the eyes to carry the rail bars 0.3mm eyelets, (Caldercraft) are used. The eyes are silver soldered to the posts using two melt points. 3479 0.5mm ø brass rod is used for the rails. 3488 3492 3495 The covers slot into the ladderway framing but are seemingly unsupported. Were I rigging the model I would add an eyebolt to the headledges to lash the covers in the vertical position. 3500 3502 The next part should see completion of the Quarterdeck fittings. B.E. 30/01/2024

Thank you, Allan and Nils, @Allan – there is a lot to praise about Vanguard kits but I also comment where I think things could be modified or improved. All kits have limitations, but Chris has certainly raised the bar of kit quality and there is a decreasing need for bashing to enhance simplifications. (not to say that I don't enjoy a spot of 'modification'. @Nils - I have already started to add the tiller lines, there will not be any visible blocks, but the sliding feet will be included. Regards, B.E.

Post One Hundred and Thirty-five Inboard fittings (Part four) The kit provides two sizes of shot 2mm and 2.5mm ø in shiny black acrylic. The 2.5mm relates to the 24pounder longs and 42pounder carronades. The 2mm relates to the 12pounder longs. I didn’t really like the look of the acrylic balls, too black and shiny for my taste. I replaced them with blackened carbon steel balls of the same diameter. These were given an acid bath, followed by immersion in Aluminium blackening fluid (I didn’t have any for steel) but it seemed to work. 3400 The more muted colour of the blackened balls tones better with my build. 3415 The simplicity of these assemblies belies the time taken to complete and fit them. The Binnacle The design follows that as may be seen on Victory or Trincomalee. Laser cut from Pear; this little assembly is a delight. The mortises and tenons of the parts slot together beautifully. The unit is complete with brass compass rose and a brass chimney for the lamp or candle. Even so, I couldn’t resist making a couple of tweaks to the design. 3450 3451 3454 Glazing was added using a strip of thin acetate sheet, and the central section on the aft facing side was blanked out. Steering wheel. I liked the wheel provided on Sphinx and this one is of the same ilk only larger and double. 3429 A fully detailed brass etched wonder that gave me little incentive to consider a wooden replacement. The kit colour scheme of Red painted wheels with white spokes appears regularly on contemporary models. Deviations include All red, Black with white spokes, and all white schemes. The latter my be a reflection that Ivory was popular for the creation of ships wheels during the 18th century. I have decided to go with the ‘Red’ scheme with spokes ivory coloured. 3457 The brass etched wheels were assembled and primed with VMS Metal Prep 4K before painting. 3440 3441 Still pondering whether to add the tiller lines. In practice the centre of the tiller line was nailed to the centre of the barrel with 7 to 9 turns. Forward end to Starboard and aft end to Port. By reference to Steel the tiller line for a 64 is of 4” circ which scales close enough to 0.5mm ø line. 3442 3462 3461 Ladderways up next. B.E. 28/01/2024

Hi Dave, Having washed the guns, I use Vallejo surface primer followed by Matt black. I then use a dark brown weathering powder and buff off. When I first worked with the 24 pounders on 'Indy' I found that without painting, striations could be seen along the barrels. B.E.

Post One Hundred and Thirty-four Inboard fittings (Part three) Moving back to the Qtr deck. I start the procedure by fitting the after-most carronades. 3376 3377 As with the Foc’sle they are pinned thro’ deck. Slightly more difficult to drill the location holes because of the bulwark tumblehome. I then moved onto the gangboards for the Poop deck access. These are completed parts, but I had to over-plank them to match the boxwood decking. Tricky little beggars to fit; the two supporting brackets must be positioned carefully to meet the bulwark whilst avoiding the iron work for the carronades. 3384 The Gangway camber is also critical, I had them on and off several times before I was happy. I opted to fit the support brackets with the Gangway in place. 3385 It dawned on me during fiddling with these that I had forgotten to consider the position of the Poop deck ladders when cutting away the Qtr deck earlier in the build.🙄 Fortunately for me my fear was short lived as can be seen in the photos. 3387 Shot garlands are not usually seen on Navy Board style models, but they are present on the contemporary Amazon model which has the guns in place. Incidentally Amazon was part of Pellew’s squadron for some notable engagements. 3379 The Qtr deck bitts are fitted along with the Top-rope scuttles. I have replaced the kit provided gratings with solid boards. 3396 3398 3394 3395 Moving onto the remaining fittings. B.E. 25/01/2024