Blue Ensign

That is so beautiful Chuck, you are a true artist. B.E.

Post Thirty-four Planking (Part two)- The real thing. From this point onwards it’s back to traditional planking using 0.8mm x 4mm Pearwood strip. In addition to the provided planking strip I purchased various widths of 0.8mm planking strip to assist with spiling and varying width strakes as they run from bow to stern. Before I start, the hull has to be marked with the bulkheads and has to be lined off for the planking. On my hull there are 25 strakes of 4mm widths mid ships, with negligible variation on the two bulkheads forward of this. 1069 I decided to line off the hull into three bands; two of 8 strakes and the lowest one of nine strakes including the Garboard. I am using narrow 3mm Tamiya tape to separate the sections. 1073 I find this aspect quite difficult as it’s down to eye to adjudge the run of the line, and decide when it’s as good as it gets. 1071(2) 1105 1102 The width of the bands at the bow are the same for bands one and two altho’ the photos appear to show Band two at the bow to be narrower. 1103 1074 1084 1086(2) 1096 1088 1099 At the stern there is the greatest variation in band widths. Band one matches the mid ships,(33mm) Band two is narrower,(25mm) and band three down to the keel is the widest (43mm). So I stare at the model with Chuck’s words from his tutorial in my head. It won’t look right initially…tweak them at each bulkhead Slowly adjust the tape at each bulkhead until it looks good based on your contemporary model observations. Take your time with this. When one side is done, take measurements and replicate on the other side. To begin I will sort the planks for colour and sameness, and I will add the first strake which should take me down to the point where the lower edge of the Wale sits. Below this the planking will be on full view. B.E. 07/11/21

The Reaper does do trips but there are many reasons why they may not be operative at a given time, best to check. B.E.

Thank you Steve for your kind words, I'm glad you enjoyed the log. I'm sure you will enjoy the kit it's a great little build. I have a visit to Anstruther on my bucket list, maybe next year, a bit of a haul at around 350 miles, and I would want to make sure the Reaper was doing trips. Regards, B.E.

Hi bug and Bob, Silver soldering is well worth adding to your skill set, and at a basic level is quite easy to do. This is my set up, a burner, a pad to work on and tubes of ready to use silver solder. It is important to have different melt points if more than two pieces are to be soldered together. The tubes above have melt points of 671, 690, and 740 degrees. This photo shows two fine brass eyelets soldered to a brass tube to make a stanchion. The parts must be clean, and devices used to hold the parts together. In the case above one ring is soldered, and then the second with a lower melt point. A small amount of solder is put on the tube, the eyelet is held in position, the torch flame applied until the silver flashes, and job done. With fine material like this it takes a second. Hold it too close or for too long and the brass pieces melt. Getting inventive with ways to hold the pieces for soldering is a big part of the process, apart form a third hand tool and self closing tweezers, I use blu tack to keep pieces in position where required. One advantage with silver soldering is that once cleaned up it takes blackening very well. Hope this helps. B.E.

Post Thirty-three Completing Keel, Knee of the Head, and sternposts As is common with Vanguard kits, cover pieces of Pearwood or outer patterns as they are described are used to provide a pristine finish to these parts which are of themselves Pearwood. This is a great improvement on having mdf or ply versions which are difficult to match to the finishing timbers. I well remember the time I spent in getting the mdf Prow on Pegasus to match the Boxwood planking. 1059 The ‘Prow’ piece is also nicely engraved with the various sections that would otherwise make up the knee of the Head. Before I fitted these pieces I fined down the first layer planking a little in places to provide a slightly better rabbet for the second planking running into the bow. It really helps to have a rabbet to get a nice clean and tight look to the bow timbers, and also helps with the fitting. 1041 The most prominent feature is the Prow piece and it fitted spot on, I was careful not to get any glue stains on the surface. 1045 Following on from the Prow the keel and sternpost pieces slot into place without issue. 1042 Finally there is the lower counter upper pattern to fit followed by two further strakes of pre spiled planking. 1058 I used ca gel for these two planks, but I did keep a pot of acetone on hand in case of marks. I really dislike ca and will probably only use it to secure the first few inches of the planks at the bow. 1050 One slightly worrying thing, out of curiosity I tried fitting the rudder in place. It looks like it won’t fit without enlarging the rudder port in the lower counter. Probably down to something I’ve done, but it’s not a big issue to adjust. With these fitted, it’s onto the wonderful world of hull planking and all it entails. B.E. 04/11/21

This is an extract from my current build log about my first order from HobbyMill EU In preparation for hull planking I ordered a full range of Pearwood strip. 1023(2) Strip Pale Pearwood timber, the longer paler strips are the kit supplied Pearwood for comparison. Each size of timber comes in packs of 10, sufficient for most spiling requirements, and the range of plank widths will allow me more flexibility. The whole process of ordering was a pleasure, Vahur is very helpful, kept me fully informed by email, and provided full tracking details. I received the timber 15 days after order. The timber was well packed and presented in separate plastic sleeves for each size. It is of excellent quality and pale in colour as ordered. I did a random check of dimensions and the tolerences seemed to be in the range of +0.1/-0.1 in widths. Extra strips were included in each packet to allow for any discrepancies. In the 0.8mm x 1mm strips an extra 6 pieces were included with the 10 ordered. 1030(2) The lower strips are the kit provided strip, and the upper ones the Hobbymill. The kit strips are paler in colour, but the hobbymill versions a closer match to the planking patterns. 1027(2) The colour tone across the range is even. The longer paler strips in the photo are the kit provided strip. 1028 These are the 10mm and 0.9mm strips. In addition to the strip wood I ordered some square/rectangular stock. 1035(2) This will be used for constructional elements that may arise. Finally, Vahur included some samples of other available timbers, Yellow cedar, Hornbeam, Dark Pearwood, Boxwood, and Holly. All looking to be of excellent quality and cleanly cut. I am happy that we have at last got a European supplier of quality timbers, and on the strength of my first order I am happy to recommend. B.E.

I agree with you Chris, I don't like the Walnut look on models; I replaced all of the planking timber on my Pegasus build with Boxwood, and I toyed with doing that on Sphinx, but I think the Pear is nice enough. The deck will be Boxwood tho'. B.E.

Extra Timber supplies. In preparation for hull planking I ordered a full range of Pearwood strip from Hobbymill EU, based in Estonia, and a recent sponsor of MSW. 1023(2) Each size of timber comes in packs of 10, sufficient for most spiling requirements, and the range of plank widths will allow me more flexibility. The whole process of ordering was a pleasure, Vahur is very helpful, kept me fully informed by email, and provided full tracking details. I received the timber 15 days after order. The timber was well packed and presented in separate plastic sleeves for each size. It is of excellent quality and pale in colour as ordered. I did a random check of dimensions and the tolerences seemed to be in the range of +0.1/-0.1 in widths. Extra stips were included in each packet to allow for any discrepancies. In the 0.8mm x 1mm strips an extra 6 pieces were included with the 10 ordered. 1030(2) The lower strips are the kit provided strip, and the upper ones the Hobbymill. The kit strips are paler in colour, but the hobbymill versions a closer match to the planking patterns. 1027(2) The colour tone across the range is even. The longer paler strips in the photo are the kit provided strip. 1028 These are the 10mm and 0.9mm strips. In addition to the strip wood I ordered some square/rectangular stock. 1035(2) This will be used for constructional elements that may arise. Finally, Vahur included some samples of other available timbers, Yellow cedar, Hornbeam, Dark Pearwood, Boxwood, and Holly. All looking to be of excellent quality and cleanly cut. I am happy that we have at last got a European supplier of quality timbers, and on the strength of my first order I am happy to recommend. B.E.

Well done Jacek, what a difference the Chuck approach has. 👍 B.E.

I don’t think I could trust myself with any sort of power option to round what are quite delicate and small scale pieces. In relation specifically to Sphinx only the slightest pass of a sanding stick is required on the square edges of the axle to allow the truck to fit. The area involved is only 2mm x1mm. 1020 It is difficult to get a perfect fit as a square peg is being inserted into a round hole. 1021 To counter this the axles would need to be a fraction larger to allow rounding for a full fit. The above macro shots show the problem, but at scale size it is a minor issue, just use the lightest touch to get them to fit. B.E.

Post Thirty-two Planking by numbers, the Pearwood journey begins. Soaked and clamped the patterns are shaped to the hull form. 0985(2) While I wait for the planking patterns to dry out I make up a range of sanding sticks using P240 grade paper. 0983(2) Some of them are size specific ie for gunports, others narrower to get into smaller places. Small ones are also used for char removal on small pieces. Once the initial bite has gone from the papers I use the older ones for finer sanding. Time to fit those pretty planking strip patterns. I begin the fixing by clamping the Rear upper pattern in its correct position, and then trial fitting the Fore pattern to ensure that everything lines up before committing to glue. 0996 I keep a jar of clean water handy to wash off any glue marks that may get on the Pearwood surface from handling. 0997 I fit the upper aft patterns next, and repeat the process for the lower patterns. I think I exhausted my entire eclectic stock of clamps on this. 0999 The lower patterns I found more tricky to fit as they had a tendency to curl on the bottom edge, requiring pinning. There was also a slight mismatch on some of the port edges even tho’ the sections seemed to meet up in the critical areas. I had originally contemplated planking the lower portion of the pattern area, but once again find myself seduced by Chris’s design. 1012(2) The only modifications I made was to remove the closed lids of the Bridle ports on the fore sections, and cut the doorway for the Quarter gallery on the aft sections. 1011 The doorways were cut post fitting from the opposite side of the hull by marking the outline with micro drill holes. 1003 I use a drill ca’d into a length of dowel for reach.* I otherwise followed the arrangement set out in the manual. * This is a useful device for drilling holes in bulwarks where space and angle are an issue. With Sphinx, Chris has thoughtfully pre drilled the holes for the gun tackle hardware, so no drilling is necessary. 1015 With the patterns in place I am better able to see what is required regarding port linings. 1013 1018(2) It is a bit of a pain, but leaving the core of mdf uncovered is not something I would want to do. Linings or stops are a pretty basic addition to a build of this scale, and consist of a cill and two sides, there is no top lining. Again I will use 0.6mm Boxwood strip,(true scale) anything thicker would reduce the port sizes too much. I will defer this job and fit it in with other work over the next couple of stages. Following on from the patterns there are two further strakes of pre spiled planking, but before these are fitted I need to look at the outer patterns for the stem, keel, and sternpost, and the outer lower counter pattern. B.E. 02/11/21

A very nice job, well done. 👍 B.E.

Note for the record - I don’t do rant. Cheers, B.E.

That bow shot looks good Jacek, well done. B.E.

Tempter - but I'll hold out - at least for the present, I've rather got my hands full.😀 B.E.

Post Thirty-one A backward step Having fitted the port linings I added a further coat of paint prior to fitting the pre formed planking strip patterns which effectively take the planking down to the bottom of the Gunport pattern. These look good and do save a lot of fine cutting around gunports. However, trial fitting of the planking patterns raised doubts in my mind about the linings. 0964 I originally fitted port linings in advance of fitting the outer planking patterns in an effort to avoid getting paint on the pattern edges. They would in normal practice be fitted once the outer planking had been completed. 0961 I have at this point soaked the bow patterns and clamped overnight. 0965(2) With the patterns applied I’m unhappy with the look. I think they should really meet the inner line of the outer patterns rather than of the gunport pattern, so off they must come. 0974(2) The sad detritus litters the deck. 0969 That’s two days of my life I’ll not get back, a penalty of kit fiddling. Hey ho. B.E. 29/10/21

I would certainly appreciate knowing your technique for char removal Chuck, post it on my log if you wish, also for the benefit of other Sphinx builders. B.E.

I sense Chuck's frustration at seeing what should be a wonderful model not being presented at its best for want of simple actions. I have copied his words at the head of each section of my log record as a reminder not to be tempted to cut corners, and leave undone that what should be done. B.E.

Toothpicks are an obvious choice, but they are quite soft and difficult to get a clean cut. With treenails they are cut flush, which solves the problem but a small amount of the truck axle should extend beyond the truck to allow for the key. I see that as problematic. B.E.

You could always give it a go Mark, but my initial thought is that the scale is very small, and may not be worth the effort. It can be quite difficult cutting tiny pieces of dowel without it splitting apart. B.E.

Nice work on the capstan, Bug, 👍 B.E.

Well done Jacek, this is what its all about, sticking with it until you get an acceptable result. 👍 B.E.

Thanks Jason, it's of its time and not up the standards of todays fittings. Those headworks I just carved by hand out of yellow pine, I can still recall how many breakages I had to get a set. Still, I do have an affection for her, and as the largest ship model in my collection she has a certain presence. As an uncased model periodic cleaning is a bit of a pain, and seems to be less effective each time I do it. Cheers, B.E.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it - there's an outside chance that Mrs W may read this.😉 B.E.