Blue Ensign

Completion Photos
 
This post concludes my log of a nine month build.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
More to follow
 
B.E.

Launch cont'd
 
Jotika only provide two half chocks to support the boat, the inference being that the boat is supported on the starboard side by the Pickle’s bulwark.
 
This seemed odd to me so I fashioned a pair of full chocks on which to rest the Launch.

 

Having spent a fair bit of time making the bally boat, I’m now not sure I like it - hmmn I think I will have to ponder on that.
I certainly think I will only display one boat on the deck even if I decide to go ahead.
 

The kit arrangement.
 
How would they manhandle a boat of that size outboard given the rigging incumbrances.
 
I've a fair idea of how the boats were swung in and out, using a triatic stay slung between the two mast pendants, with tackles attached to ring bolts within the boat to raise it above the bulwarks, further tackles slung from the yardarm, and probably the Fore gaff, to swing it out.
 
Can you imagine how tricky that could be with an overlarge ships boat, keeping it steady to avoid crashing into the rigging, or worse the masts, she would have to hove to in any case to launch a boat, but in anything other than a millpond sea, she would still be rolling and pitching to varying degrees.
 
I really wanted to display a boat on the deck, maybe a replacement cutter of slightly less size, and some modifications learned from the building of the Launch.
 
The 14’ Cutter
 
This is not a bad shape and at least I know it will fit on the deck without giving the impression of trying to squeeze a quart into a pint pot.
 
I took a different approach with the Jolly boat.
 
Exterior planking was done clinker fashion using strips from computer label paper.
 

I decided that planking the inside of the hull was a waste of time as the planks were hardly visible on the larger boat when finished, and they just add to the thickness of the gunwales.
 
On this boat I used styrene strip of 0.5 x 1.5mm for the ribs and keelson, 0.5 x 2 mm for the rising plank.
The gunnels I made from 0.75mmx1.5mm styrene strip.

Small boats are tricky to hold whilst working, but a cut out in a block of balsa goes a long way to keep it steady.
To avoid unnecessary thickness I left the ribs long so that they would support the thin gunnels.

Basic internal structure completed, paper patterns for the foredeck and stern sheet gratings
 
Jotika suggest that there were no bottom boards or knees, but I have modified the interior to reflect the drawings in the McGowan Victory book, and other reference sources.

Bottom boards have been fitted, a grating in the stern sheets, and a small foredeck at the bow. The gratings which are nice features in small boats were left over from the main build but necessitated taking down to a fraction of their original thickness to suit.
 
Boxwood strip was used for the thwarts and ring bolts fitted at the bow and stern.

Modified chocks.
 

 

In keeping with the muted colours of the main model I decided to colour the oars in a natural wood finish, white looked too stark to my eye, and there is no white anywhere else on the vessel.
 
She certainly looks more in scale to the size of Pickle, so the 19’ launch will not be displayed on the model.
 
B.E.
 
 

Okay Floyd, your wish is . . .
Photos courtesy of Mike Graff.
 
End-iron chain block on jumbo jib boom

 

 

 

 

 
Easy turnbuckles

 

Restarting my Bluenose log.
Since this is my first build, I am writing to share the many things I learn along the way and perhaps some of the solutions I have found. I started about four years ago and am getting closer to stepping the masts and starting rigging. I used Bob Hunt’s practicum, which was invaluable while getting started. This is how she looks today.
 

 
I originally planned to display bluenose with sails furled. The photo shows two attempts at the sails. The fore sail was made form kit fabric cut down to ½ the full sail size. It is still too heavy and far out of scale. The main sail is sillkspan, which looks better to scale. This sail was a quick fit for comparison. The silkspan looked good but it helped me change my mind and build her under full sail. After all, massive sail area is one thing that makes these fishing schooners so lovely. So I got to hone my sewing skills making a second set of sails. This is all part of the fun, we get to use so many different skills.
 

 
Some photos from the original log.
June 2009, completed planking. Photo shows frame bracing, not in the plan but I was afraid of damaging frames when fairing the hull. A little stiffness never hurts.
 

 
December 2010, pintles and gudgeons. The plans show forming the gudgeon out of brass strip. I could not make it work well so I soldered some brass tubing instead. Much easier.
 

 
January 2011, most of the deck furniture is installed.
 

 

 
December 2011, masts and spars made while learning how to solder.
 

 

Its down to personal preference I think Nils, the Amati plates are quite easy to apply using thick ca and again the set can be purchased separately. Any misplacements are easily removed sometimes with the assistance of a little acetone.
 
Pegasus was coppered from the outset, but with neat hull planking and given your particular approach  to your build there is no reason why you couldn't  leave one side uncoppered, perhaps even applying plates to the 'open' side only to show the effect or vice versa.
 
Whatever, you decide I'm sure you will achieve a good result.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Love those last two shots Juergen, what a fine model she is.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Hi mates,
 
Adam (SkerryAmp): Thanks for looking at the build and for your comments, much appreciated.
 
Post #9 of my Phantom Build Log
 
Task was to paint the hull, bulwarks (exterior and interior), and the rudder. As mentioned, I will not be adding copper plates to the hull below the waterline.
 
The acrylic paint scheme is black, copper over black to the exterior of the hull and bulwarks, and egg shell white to the interior of the bulwarks.
 
First step was to reapply the waterline to make sure that the pencil line is dark. I then painted gesso everywhere paint was going to appear.  After the gesso I applied ¼” wide Tamiya tape at the upper hull side of the waterline. I use Tamiya tape because it is thin, has a cut edge, and is very sticky.  Bob (bburlman) recommended I use Tamiya when I built my first vessel. It works far better than masking tape or blue tape.
 
As I am using acrylic copper paint to represent copper below the waterline I painted black as an undercoat prior to applying the copper color.  Process was gesso, black, and copper colors below the waterline. Copper over black is much deeper and richer in appearance.
 
Photo 38
 
Shows black color applied over gesso. I gently rubbed the black paint with number 400 steel wool before apply the copper color.  I used the wool to eliminate paint brush strokes and cut the gloss of acrylic paint. Note how the tape line is revealed after using the wool. Paint tends builds up along the waterline and needs to be smoothed out.
 

 
Photo 39
 
Painted the copper color over the black undercoat and removed the tape to show the waterline.
 

 
 
Photo 40
 
Next step was to apply tape over the copper color as close to the edge of the paint as possible prior to painting the black color above the waterline.
 

 
Photo 41
 
Hull painted black and the tape removed to show the completed hull. The rudder was painted away from the hull and then added for the photograph.
 

 
There was a very, very fine raised line where the two paint colors met.  The line is visible to the eye and obvious to the touch and must be leveled out to look right.  I used number 400 steel wool to accomplish the task. Now the paint colors blend beautifully into one another. Do not use sand paper for this task. The fine line to be removed is measured in microns.
 
Thanks for looking in on the build. Comments and questions always welcomed.
 
BFN,
Hopeful aka David
 
“Standards set are standards met”.
 
 
 

Build update:
 
Finished mounting and rigging the carronades on the poop deck.  Wasn't sure how to rig them properly, so I took my best shot.  The drawing I have shows the train tackles bulkhead eyelets spaced about the length away from the perpendicular.  I had two problems: one being the lack on bulkhead on this deck and second if I put the eyelets this distance the two aft most carronades rigging would overlap.  I guess the train tackles were spaced as specified to allow it to be pulled parallel with the deck.  I just mounted a eyelet for running out, breeching and train next to one another on each side.  I also think there was a tackle running on each side from the front eyelet on the slide of the carronade to an aft eyelet on deck for the purpose of bringing the slide aft for loading.  I had seen a drawing of this, but can't find it.  There are so many versions of carronade assemblies.  I've attached the picture of the one I used for example.  Would be great to have a reference for the use of each eyelet.
 
For rigging I used single and double blocks (3/32) purchased from Syren Model Company. The rigging line for breeching is from Amati and the tackles are DMC 100 and using UNI-thread 6/0 for seizings.  Hooks are made from black annealed #28 gauge wire.
 
Made up purchased buckets from Amati (these are made attaching two halves which did have some offset therefore required sanding, not good).  I did make the mistake of only purchasing 8, but 12 are needed to complete bucket rail, oh well.  Made the handles from 32 black annealed wire.
 
Presently working on the hammock cranes netting.  I'm using a material that I purchased when building my HMS Fly from JoAnn Fabrics (craft store).  It only comes in black, but has the diamond shape and pretty close to scale.  I think I paid about $1.25 for a yard of the stuff which is enough for many builds.  Prior to mounting this material, I ran DMC 40 thread through each hammock crane and secured a knot on each end.  Then made strips of eight rows of diamonds from the netting, folded in half and pushed into position, then using UNI-thread 6/0  tied a knot connecting each top diamond to the top thread rail.  Once complete used diluted Vallejo black paint, therefore the reason for covering deck.  Thin paint will spatter.
 
Continuing on.

The Port Side is at the same progress as the Starboard Side.
I don't make many words because the procedure is the same.
Here some photos of the current progress.

 

... and the most tricky, cleaning up the top edge with some fine and sharp nail scissors - without cutting the top rope!
 

 
Looks intriguing enough :-)
 

 

 
And another fascinating task, painting the hammocks using my beloved casein paints with all kind of whiter shades of pale ...
 

 
... looking if the colors work if hidden behind the netting ...
 

 
... some differentiation with some more different shades of ochre ...
 

 
... put in place ...
 

 
... gently and pushed in :-)
 

 
Fascinating!
 

 

 
And as you see on the left - the Tic-Tac would not fit in :-)
 
Good night and sleep well,
 
Daniel

Hi Nils, I suppose if you go with gangplanks the ladderway is not needed. Having a ladderway in that position does solve the practical problem of gun fouling, but doesn't the deck beam foul access to the Fo'csle? - or are you intending to modify the beam by the addition of ledges and carlings to form the hatchway?
 
The swivel gun modifications are looking good, those hooks I modified for the mountings are available as a separate purchase so you don't need to use up the kit supplied ones.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Detail shots of the completed model


Long boat with the sheep pens beneath.
 

Activity on the Qtr deck, the crew are converted ‘N’ scale rail figures.
 

Poop deck detail.
 

 

Crew ascending the Main shrouds.
 

Fore deck detail.
 

Crew at the Fore Topmast head.
 

 

Head details.
 


 

 

Stern Qtr details.
 
 
Full shots of the model
 


 

 
 

 

 

 

 

Secure in her protective case.
 
I think this has been the most exacting build I have undertaken due to the small scale and my
less than good eyesight, I am very pleased with the result but I don’t think I
will attempt another at this scale.
 
I am much more comfortable with 1:64 scale, as with my current Pegasus build.

B.E.


 


 


 
 
 
 
 


 



 
 
 


 


 


 
 


 


 
 


 


 


 


 
 


 
 


 


 


 


 


 


 

Continuing:

Details of the sails.




These were drawn from the plans of Boudriot and are made of Modelspan
tissue .
 



 



 
Attaching reef points nearly destroyed what little was left of my sanity.



As did the ratlines using 125g copper wire.
 

Almost done.


 


 


 

 







 

Little update due to extreme weather conditions (>30°celsius), even holding a paintbrush makes me sweat. However… we waited that long for this summer.
The figurehead : I wanted to obtain an effect just as it was carved out of the wood, perhaps an extra layer of satin varnish ? The figurehead is still dry fit. The figurehead received one layer of white foundation and one layer of goldbrown
In the meantime a little experiment for the gunports : I’ve cut out of some sparewood a port with the same dimensions and fixed a rectangular smaller piece out of a 0,5 mm sheet and overpainted it with a glossy red color, the fored holes are to receive the eyebolts at both sides.The upper side from the gunports is made from the same yellow wooden strips as applied to the hull ( above the wales)
 
Oh yes :regarding "the sailing frigate", Amazon told me it is on its way
 
to be continued

Thanks guy's
B.E. your right and Remco also told me about the size, which of couse I didn't do. I did go back and changed the breeching rope along with the tackles to a right  size and thank you both. The breeching rope is now .047 inch and the tackle is .017. Thanks for the infor on the gun and it's parts. As many times as I have looked at them and study all the parts to install on the carriage, you would think I should know them by heart. Here are some new photo's of the cannon but this time mounted on board Montagu . Enjoy the photo's guys. Gary

Beautiful looking gun Gary, nice work on the carriage. What size line did you use for the breeching? 7" circumference rope was used on a 32 pounder. I'm not sure that was the way the breeching rope was secured on a non Blomefield pattern gun. I think the breeching was either taken a turn around the neck of the cascable from one side to the other, or was spliced around the cascable.
 
ps On this side of the pond we call those plugs that fit in the muzzles 'Tompions', and the iron work that secures the trunnions the Cap Squares. The key is secured through the Joint Bolt over which the hinged cap square fits.
 
I would need to think a little about the messenger cables and its getting late. Daniel (Dafi) has done extensive research on the messenger set up and a visit to his Victory build may be beneficial.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

I had the opportunity to practice with the Proxxon lathe.  It's really nice little machine and I am delighted with it. Over the weekend I completed the parts of the three topmasts where turning was necessary.  Without the lathe the job would have been very difficult indeed. Now come the hard parts where the masts are squared or octagonal. I am waiting for delivery of the extra lathe bed (as suggested by BE) and will work on the longer masts/spars when it arrives.
 
In the meantime here are some pictures of the figurehead, though I see now that the pictures are larger, there is still a bit of touching up to do. As well, I belatedly discovered that the hole for his sword is not deep enough which is a nuisance.  A suggestion/reminder for those who have not so far began painting their figurehead; give it a good wash with something like acetone to help the paint adhere. Unfortunately I forgot.  A tip given to me by a (portrait) painter is to dip brushes in linseed oil and wipe off  after washing them in mineral turpentine.  They become even cleaner and it preserves the bushes really well.
 
 
 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello Nils, what a fascinating approach to building Pegasus working up the full frames from the Amati bulkhead drawings, no mean feat.
 
What did you use as reference for the internal fittings which of course are not given in the Amati plans? but which add such interest to your build.
 
I note that you have added metal rims to the trucks of your gun carriages and lifting bars (Dolphins) to the guns. You may of course be adopting a stylistic approach to aspects of your build, which is fine, but those features were not actually fitted to British naval guns of the period, if you are seeking an historical approach.
 
An appealing build Nils, I will follow your progress with much interest.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

You're in good company Daniel with our King Alfred, he had trouble with ovens
 
A realistic result and a great solution, best I've seen.
 
Cheers,
 
M.

Thanks Andy and Mark - so I have not yet given up on the bulwark decorations, but I have put them on pause for a bit...To pass the time while turning my mind around my latest approach to that problem, I've decided to make the rudder and the cannons - it's fortunate that with projects like this there's always something else to do while you're figuring other stuff out!
 
I made the rudder three times. The first was out of 4mm x 4mm beach that I had left over from another build. This didn't work out - I messed up carving out the slots for the pintles and gudgeons. The second was from 3mm x 3mm lime, planked with .5mm lime. This didn't work because the shape was off. The last one was from the same material as number two, but I used a template to get the correct shape and it worked out quite well. Finished in white, Golden Oak and Red.
 
For the Pintles and Gudgeons, I abandoned the metal parts supplied in the kit and used 1/16 x 1/64" brass strip, blackened. I had thought of installing bolts, but at this scale and with only a pin vice to work with I decided against it. I did add ring bolts for the rudder chains.
 
No photos of the cannons yet - I'll save that for another post later....In the meantime, here's the rudder....Bye for now - hope you're all enjoying the weekend.
hamilton
 

 

 

 

 

Detail shots of the completed model


Long boat with the sheep pens beneath.
 

Activity on the Qtr deck, the crew are converted ‘N’ scale rail figures.
 

Poop deck detail.
 

 

Crew ascending the Main shrouds.
 

Fore deck detail.
 

Crew at the Fore Topmast head.
 

 

Head details.
 


 

 

Stern Qtr details.
 
 
Full shots of the model
 


 

 
 

 

 

 

 

Secure in her protective case.
 
I think this has been the most exacting build I have undertaken due to the small scale and my
less than good eyesight, I am very pleased with the result but I don’t think I
will attempt another at this scale.
 
I am much more comfortable with 1:64 scale, as with my current Pegasus build.

B.E.


 


 


 
 
 
 
 


 



 
 
 


 


 


 
 


 


 
 


 


 


 


 
 


 
 


 


 


 


 


 


 

Completion of head
 
I managed head construction as depicted above. I’m thinking result is not bad and feeling relieved to finish this difficult section.
 




Photos above are of close-up of bow rails. BTW vertical sections of beakhead balkhead columns (part 418) are replaced by Evergreen channel strip because moulding direction of kit photo etched part is inverted.
 
 

Photo above is showing entire model.
 
These are all I can upload now. I'm now preparing guns for the model. I really hope members enjoy my building log
 
Regards,

Cathead support
 

Cathead support is one of most difficult parts to determine its shape. Not only its own graceful and complex 3 dimensional curve it should also fit on bow flare with minimum gap. Photo above is of pattern cut from black card.
 
 
 

transferring of outline from pattern to 0.5 mm maple sheet.
 
 

Maple sheet is cut following pencil line transferred from pattern.
 
 

2mm walnut piece is sandwiched by maple. Lower section between two maple sheets is also filled with walnut piece.
 
 

Rail connecting cathead support and middle head rail was built from pair of 1 X 1mm strip. It is far easier to bend pair of 1 X 1mm strip than 2 X 1mm strip. Bent them with steam and heat from kettle, then after desirable curves were gained, the pair of strips is glued together.
 
 

Photo above is showing connection between middle head rail and cathead support on its position. It was moulded with metal edge pattern and cut to appropriate length and glued to its position.

Continuing of head construction
 

Photo above is of gluing of upper rail.
 
 

Middle and lower rails are installed. These rails are 2 X 1mm amarillo strip and bent with steam and heat from kettle. I also add moulds to them with metal edge pattern.
 
 

Photo above is of covering to V shaped timbers. They are 3 X 1mm amarillo strips. I add some moulds to these covering strips as shown on pictures.
 
 
 

Installation of lower cheek
 
 
 
Symmetry of both sides are checked from directory forward. Perhaps small asymmetry would be discovered by careful examination, but I’m satisfied with the results.
 
 
 
Photo above is showing painting of catheads. Blue areas are represented by gluing thin strip shaved from amarillo and painted in blue.

Construction of head
 
Construction of head would be one of most difficult stage of sailing warship model building because of its complex mixture of curved timbers. Fortunately curves of most of these timbers are 2 dimensional and I believe head construction can be achieved with some care and patience.
 
Now let’s start actual consequence with pictures and depiction.
 
 

Photo above is of dry fitting of figurehead. Before starting of head construction, I had to adjust jointing of figurehead and head. Figurehead provided in the kit are hard cast metal, so cutting of wooden head is only resolution. It is desirable to fit figurehead to head without any gap, but I had to rely on putty. I hope usage of putty will be sealed with black painting.
 
 

Photo above is of preparing of amarillo sheet. Because of usage of amarillo strip on hull planking, I determined to use same timbers for head construction. I don’t have electric circular saw and had to cut them by hand saw. Section after hand cutting are very poor, and I want to buy table saw someday.
 
 

Transferring outlines of rails from kit parts to amarillo.
 
 

Photo above is of cutting sequence.
 
 

Head parts cut from amarillo.
 
 

Photo above is showing construction of V shaped head timbers and gratings. Initially I put aft end of aftermost grating on the prow deck. But after some discussion with Arthur, I noticed aftermost grating should be even level with prow deck. Anyhow I recommend to careful test dry fit before gluing of parts.
 
 

Upper cheek is glued. I noticed that it is easier to construct head rail by settling model at upside down position.
 
 

Photo above is of hawse hole pattern construction. Holes are drilled to bow. I add thin wood strips to backside of patterns for perfect adjusting to stepping of thick stuff.