Blue Ensign

Post Seven
The gratings are secured in place using tiny spots of ca but I have found with my previous small boat builds that small enough not to spread thro’ the gratings with an annoying shiny reflection, is not always sufficient to hold securely, we shall see.

9395
I took the precaution of cutting a pattern to fit over the gratings to protect the surface during the extensive messing around inside the boat to come.

9394
The ribs are easily fitted given the notches in the grating pattern, and they do stiffen up the hull.

9393
There is an adequate supply of strip for this purpose.
There are one or two little bits to fit as per sections 32- 35 of the blurb, but back in section 13 there is a part B25 indicated, which as far as I can see is not mentioned again.

9389(2)
I suspect it may have something to do with the Foredeck but If it is, I think the instructions need re-visiting to be more specific in this area.

9388(2)
It’s not an easy match in any case, and the foredeck fitting has issues. If the notched back edge is intended to slot into the second bulkhead, then the first bulkhead should sit below the gunwale.

9292(2)
The first bulkhead and bow pieces are level with the gunwale.
(The bow stem extension has broken off, but that is easily fixed.)

9393(2)
This bulkhead, from the photos appears to form the vertical face of the fore platform.

9390
This rather unflattering macro of the bow end demonstrates the issues.
(Part of the Pearwood bulkhead on the port side snapped off during trimming.)
 
The problem is how to model the fore platform.
To use part B25, the first bulkhead would need to be rebated to accept the part, not an easy task at this point.
 
My thoughts are that the second bulkhead be infilled and brought level with the first bulkhead, and a piece fashioned to fit.
If this stands a tad proud of the top line planking, it can be used to support a bow wash strake.
 
I need to ponder this awhile, but until it’s sorted, I can’t really move forward with this build.
 
B.E.
17/11/2022
 
 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Post Seven
The gratings are secured in place using tiny spots of ca but I have found with my previous small boat builds that small enough not to spread thro’ the gratings with an annoying shiny reflection, is not always sufficient to hold securely, we shall see.

9395
I took the precaution of cutting a pattern to fit over the gratings to protect the surface during the extensive messing around inside the boat to come.

9394
The ribs are easily fitted given the notches in the grating pattern, and they do stiffen up the hull.

9393
There is an adequate supply of strip for this purpose.
There are one or two little bits to fit as per sections 32- 35 of the blurb, but back in section 13 there is a part B25 indicated, which as far as I can see is not mentioned again.

9389(2)
I suspect it may have something to do with the Foredeck but If it is, I think the instructions need re-visiting to be more specific in this area.

9388(2)
It’s not an easy match in any case, and the foredeck fitting has issues. If the notched back edge is intended to slot into the second bulkhead, then the first bulkhead should sit below the gunwale.

9292(2)
The first bulkhead and bow pieces are level with the gunwale.
(The bow stem extension has broken off, but that is easily fixed.)

9393(2)
This bulkhead, from the photos appears to form the vertical face of the fore platform.

9390
This rather unflattering macro of the bow end demonstrates the issues.
(Part of the Pearwood bulkhead on the port side snapped off during trimming.)
 
The problem is how to model the fore platform.
To use part B25, the first bulkhead would need to be rebated to accept the part, not an easy task at this point.
 
My thoughts are that the second bulkhead be infilled and brought level with the first bulkhead, and a piece fashioned to fit.
If this stands a tad proud of the top line planking, it can be used to support a bow wash strake.
 
I need to ponder this awhile, but until it’s sorted, I can’t really move forward with this build.
 
B.E.
17/11/2022
 
 

Post Seven
The gratings are secured in place using tiny spots of ca but I have found with my previous small boat builds that small enough not to spread thro’ the gratings with an annoying shiny reflection, is not always sufficient to hold securely, we shall see.

9395
I took the precaution of cutting a pattern to fit over the gratings to protect the surface during the extensive messing around inside the boat to come.

9394
The ribs are easily fitted given the notches in the grating pattern, and they do stiffen up the hull.

9393
There is an adequate supply of strip for this purpose.
There are one or two little bits to fit as per sections 32- 35 of the blurb, but back in section 13 there is a part B25 indicated, which as far as I can see is not mentioned again.

9389(2)
I suspect it may have something to do with the Foredeck but If it is, I think the instructions need re-visiting to be more specific in this area.

9388(2)
It’s not an easy match in any case, and the foredeck fitting has issues. If the notched back edge is intended to slot into the second bulkhead, then the first bulkhead should sit below the gunwale.

9292(2)
The first bulkhead and bow pieces are level with the gunwale.
(The bow stem extension has broken off, but that is easily fixed.)

9393(2)
This bulkhead, from the photos appears to form the vertical face of the fore platform.

9390
This rather unflattering macro of the bow end demonstrates the issues.
(Part of the Pearwood bulkhead on the port side snapped off during trimming.)
 
The problem is how to model the fore platform.
To use part B25, the first bulkhead would need to be rebated to accept the part, not an easy task at this point.
 
My thoughts are that the second bulkhead be infilled and brought level with the first bulkhead, and a piece fashioned to fit.
If this stands a tad proud of the top line planking, it can be used to support a bow wash strake.
 
I need to ponder this awhile, but until it’s sorted, I can’t really move forward with this build.
 
B.E.
17/11/2022
 
 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Post Seven
The gratings are secured in place using tiny spots of ca but I have found with my previous small boat builds that small enough not to spread thro’ the gratings with an annoying shiny reflection, is not always sufficient to hold securely, we shall see.

9395
I took the precaution of cutting a pattern to fit over the gratings to protect the surface during the extensive messing around inside the boat to come.

9394
The ribs are easily fitted given the notches in the grating pattern, and they do stiffen up the hull.

9393
There is an adequate supply of strip for this purpose.
There are one or two little bits to fit as per sections 32- 35 of the blurb, but back in section 13 there is a part B25 indicated, which as far as I can see is not mentioned again.

9389(2)
I suspect it may have something to do with the Foredeck but If it is, I think the instructions need re-visiting to be more specific in this area.

9388(2)
It’s not an easy match in any case, and the foredeck fitting has issues. If the notched back edge is intended to slot into the second bulkhead, then the first bulkhead should sit below the gunwale.

9292(2)
The first bulkhead and bow pieces are level with the gunwale.
(The bow stem extension has broken off, but that is easily fixed.)

9393(2)
This bulkhead, from the photos appears to form the vertical face of the fore platform.

9390
This rather unflattering macro of the bow end demonstrates the issues.
(Part of the Pearwood bulkhead on the port side snapped off during trimming.)
 
The problem is how to model the fore platform.
To use part B25, the first bulkhead would need to be rebated to accept the part, not an easy task at this point.
 
My thoughts are that the second bulkhead be infilled and brought level with the first bulkhead, and a piece fashioned to fit.
If this stands a tad proud of the top line planking, it can be used to support a bow wash strake.
 
I need to ponder this awhile, but until it’s sorted, I can’t really move forward with this build.
 
B.E.
17/11/2022
 
 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Post Seven
The gratings are secured in place using tiny spots of ca but I have found with my previous small boat builds that small enough not to spread thro’ the gratings with an annoying shiny reflection, is not always sufficient to hold securely, we shall see.

9395
I took the precaution of cutting a pattern to fit over the gratings to protect the surface during the extensive messing around inside the boat to come.

9394
The ribs are easily fitted given the notches in the grating pattern, and they do stiffen up the hull.

9393
There is an adequate supply of strip for this purpose.
There are one or two little bits to fit as per sections 32- 35 of the blurb, but back in section 13 there is a part B25 indicated, which as far as I can see is not mentioned again.

9389(2)
I suspect it may have something to do with the Foredeck but If it is, I think the instructions need re-visiting to be more specific in this area.

9388(2)
It’s not an easy match in any case, and the foredeck fitting has issues. If the notched back edge is intended to slot into the second bulkhead, then the first bulkhead should sit below the gunwale.

9292(2)
The first bulkhead and bow pieces are level with the gunwale.
(The bow stem extension has broken off, but that is easily fixed.)

9393(2)
This bulkhead, from the photos appears to form the vertical face of the fore platform.

9390
This rather unflattering macro of the bow end demonstrates the issues.
(Part of the Pearwood bulkhead on the port side snapped off during trimming.)
 
The problem is how to model the fore platform.
To use part B25, the first bulkhead would need to be rebated to accept the part, not an easy task at this point.
 
My thoughts are that the second bulkhead be infilled and brought level with the first bulkhead, and a piece fashioned to fit.
If this stands a tad proud of the top line planking, it can be used to support a bow wash strake.
 
I need to ponder this awhile, but until it’s sorted, I can’t really move forward with this build.
 
B.E.
17/11/2022
 
 

Post Seven
The gratings are secured in place using tiny spots of ca but I have found with my previous small boat builds that small enough not to spread thro’ the gratings with an annoying shiny reflection, is not always sufficient to hold securely, we shall see.

9395
I took the precaution of cutting a pattern to fit over the gratings to protect the surface during the extensive messing around inside the boat to come.

9394
The ribs are easily fitted given the notches in the grating pattern, and they do stiffen up the hull.

9393
There is an adequate supply of strip for this purpose.
There are one or two little bits to fit as per sections 32- 35 of the blurb, but back in section 13 there is a part B25 indicated, which as far as I can see is not mentioned again.

9389(2)
I suspect it may have something to do with the Foredeck but If it is, I think the instructions need re-visiting to be more specific in this area.

9388(2)
It’s not an easy match in any case, and the foredeck fitting has issues. If the notched back edge is intended to slot into the second bulkhead, then the first bulkhead should sit below the gunwale.

9292(2)
The first bulkhead and bow pieces are level with the gunwale.
(The bow stem extension has broken off, but that is easily fixed.)

9393(2)
This bulkhead, from the photos appears to form the vertical face of the fore platform.

9390
This rather unflattering macro of the bow end demonstrates the issues.
(Part of the Pearwood bulkhead on the port side snapped off during trimming.)
 
The problem is how to model the fore platform.
To use part B25, the first bulkhead would need to be rebated to accept the part, not an easy task at this point.
 
My thoughts are that the second bulkhead be infilled and brought level with the first bulkhead, and a piece fashioned to fit.
If this stands a tad proud of the top line planking, it can be used to support a bow wash strake.
 
I need to ponder this awhile, but until it’s sorted, I can’t really move forward with this build.
 
B.E.
17/11/2022
 
 

Post Seven
The gratings are secured in place using tiny spots of ca but I have found with my previous small boat builds that small enough not to spread thro’ the gratings with an annoying shiny reflection, is not always sufficient to hold securely, we shall see.

9395
I took the precaution of cutting a pattern to fit over the gratings to protect the surface during the extensive messing around inside the boat to come.

9394
The ribs are easily fitted given the notches in the grating pattern, and they do stiffen up the hull.

9393
There is an adequate supply of strip for this purpose.
There are one or two little bits to fit as per sections 32- 35 of the blurb, but back in section 13 there is a part B25 indicated, which as far as I can see is not mentioned again.

9389(2)
I suspect it may have something to do with the Foredeck but If it is, I think the instructions need re-visiting to be more specific in this area.

9388(2)
It’s not an easy match in any case, and the foredeck fitting has issues. If the notched back edge is intended to slot into the second bulkhead, then the first bulkhead should sit below the gunwale.

9292(2)
The first bulkhead and bow pieces are level with the gunwale.
(The bow stem extension has broken off, but that is easily fixed.)

9393(2)
This bulkhead, from the photos appears to form the vertical face of the fore platform.

9390
This rather unflattering macro of the bow end demonstrates the issues.
(Part of the Pearwood bulkhead on the port side snapped off during trimming.)
 
The problem is how to model the fore platform.
To use part B25, the first bulkhead would need to be rebated to accept the part, not an easy task at this point.
 
My thoughts are that the second bulkhead be infilled and brought level with the first bulkhead, and a piece fashioned to fit.
If this stands a tad proud of the top line planking, it can be used to support a bow wash strake.
 
I need to ponder this awhile, but until it’s sorted, I can’t really move forward with this build.
 
B.E.
17/11/2022
 
 

I agree totally.  If you have misunderstood it based on the RMG description, you are certainly not alone!!😁😁   RMG is run by people so as with all of us, mistakes happen, including the written descriptions.  This would not be the first I have seen.  This may be the case here as there is one man per thwart rowing so would be considered single banked by any definition I have ever seen.  I just did another quick definition search and every one that I read states a variation of the following
A boat that is "double banked" has two crew members sitting on each thwart, each pulling an oar on their side of the boat. In a "single banked" boat, there is one person on each thwart pulling one oar.  There is no mention anywhere of empty thwarts between rowers.   With a breadth of about 6 feet, there is not enough room for two rowers on one thwart.  There has been a lot of discussion and sketches  here at MSW lately regarding the minimum breadth for a double banked boat and the consensus is that it would be at least 6 feet 9 inches and more likely wider.  
 
Allan
 
 
 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Four
Planking and more planking.
It is a slow business planking at this scale.
Each strake has to be tapered, bevelled, wetted, edge bent, wet fitted, clamped in place, and blasted with the hairdryer, and left until formed.

9259
These sectioning clips are ideal for the purpose, applying the right degree of pressure on this fairly delicate hull.
After what feels like half a lifetime the planking nears completion.

9307(2)

9309(2)

9310

9308

9319
A week’s planking leaves two strakes left to finish.
These will be the garboard plank and a spiled plank that will sit on the bottom of the hull out of sight.

9314

9318
I have not found planking an easy job on this project and it looks pretty rough at this stage, a lot of fettlin’ to do to get an acceptable finish.
 
Hopefully it will look a lot better in the next post.
 
B.E.
12/11//2020
 
 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Four
Planking and more planking.
It is a slow business planking at this scale.
Each strake has to be tapered, bevelled, wetted, edge bent, wet fitted, clamped in place, and blasted with the hairdryer, and left until formed.

9259
These sectioning clips are ideal for the purpose, applying the right degree of pressure on this fairly delicate hull.
After what feels like half a lifetime the planking nears completion.

9307(2)

9309(2)

9310

9308

9319
A week’s planking leaves two strakes left to finish.
These will be the garboard plank and a spiled plank that will sit on the bottom of the hull out of sight.

9314

9318
I have not found planking an easy job on this project and it looks pretty rough at this stage, a lot of fettlin’ to do to get an acceptable finish.
 
Hopefully it will look a lot better in the next post.
 
B.E.
12/11//2020
 
 

Coming along nicely B.E.
Ivory is definitely a good choice for "white". Using a too bright colour and it just sticks out if you know what I mean.
 
Keep it up!

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Seamanship in the Age of sail by John Harland gives the complete process from getting underway from anchoring, to coming to anchor, and stowing the cables.
A very useful book.
It is exhausting just reading about handling the cables; cleaning and setting them to dry before stowage, and the highly skilled task of passing them down to the hold and faking them in the correct manner for subsequent use.
 
B.E.

The cables are secured around the riding bitts and pass down thro' the Main Hatch to the cable tier.

8989
8993.
This is the arrangement on Pegasus, a slightly smaller sixth rate, but Sphinx would be similar.
 
B.E.
 
 
 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022