Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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I was mistaken. I used Pau Marfin, not Boxwood. It edge bends easier. -
I used boxwood as well. I did not have any issues with the sheer strake, although I may have had to slightly spile the one below. However, given the problems I had with the planking in general, I will defer to you ad Toni.
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Mike, Looking good. I see Hewitt talked you into putting the horse below the tiller.
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My point was that I was doing alot of building (although not as much as I would like) and not very much photo documenting of same. Altho, I admit that photo quality was a bit better. You may not see it here, but if you blow it up it is noticable.
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Maury, Welcome to the build!!!! I am surprised you said you spiled the top planks. IIRC the top (sheer) plank goes in as is-unspiled. I do not recall doing anything special for plank 2 either.
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Bob, Many thanks. I will experiment with my current project. Since it will have inner planking as well, any glitches can be forgiven.
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Thanks Bob. This could help in another project I am working on. I will experiment with what I have...and keep an eye open for other options.
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Bob/Toni, Are those Harbor Freight sanding disks or dremel?
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I have done more modeling than I have model photography. I took this pic t our Model Guild meeting. Friese and lower rubrail added. Here is a look at a proposed mounting scheme. Most people are using wire or thin tubing. As a contrarian, I am going with clunky. Whadya think? Book is not part of the base.
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I think Mike is too busy working on FLY. We may have to strong arm him.
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I forgot to mention...based on the care I am taking with the cap rail, I do not intend to paint the edge of the cap rail white. I thought about painting a 1/32" white line below the cap and above the friese. If I had decided to do this, I would have painted the top of the gun'l a bit more than the 1/32 inch BEFORE I applied the cap rail, thus giving a crisp line. The friese would have been applied so that the 1/32" white stripe showed. Maybe next time.
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Since my past efforts to tape and paint without seepage on this hull have proven non-good, I decided to do something else for the top rail. Using red Trans Tint water based (or alcohol based) wood dye, I dyed the under side lip of the cap rails. My initial plan was to use two 1/16" x 1/16" lengths of wood. These would be attached side by side, bent along the whole length of the gun'l so that the wood grain would be always running with the cap rail. Once added, I would have sanded it down to 1/32 thick and as wide as it needed to be. I decided NOT to do that because it did not provide the little flare on the bow. Port side cap rail added. The water based/alcohol based dye does not interfere with gluing. A closer look. You can see how much crisper the demarcation line is versus that of the water line. I will eventually paint with caboose red on upper and side portions, but leave undersides untouch (and hence, unboloxed up).
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Don't forget the Harold Hahn plans still sold by his family.
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Holy Cow! Talk about pre-planning.....I'm impressed. Hello Kurt. It's good to see you again.
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Bob, My efforts to fix the problem proved how true your statement is. I drilled a pilot hole in the piece that was to be glued BEFORE I glued it. Once the glue had dried 24 hours, I used my pin vise to drill the hole the rest of the way into the stem. The stem piece broke again; not a the glue joint, but above it. Apparently the force of the drill pushing into the wood (opposite reaction-pushing up on the stem piece) lifted it right off. All should be well now.
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Great job Toni! Hopefully you are getting a case/dust cover for it. What is your next project?
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This pic shows me inserting the peg in the stem piece. I had originally wanted to use 2 pegs, but it did not work out. My comic-sans font seems not to be working. :-(
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Len Superb work. I will need to go back and spend more time on this. I really like how you did the transom castings.
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Paint job is complete and tape is removed. Note: I have added broken stem piece. Taking pics inside using the ol' laptop as a backdrop seems to be more successful than outdoor shoots with poor light. I am not very happy with the result of the waterline painting. It doesn't look quite right. I have checked and rechecked after painting and that, indeed, is a correct waterline....still looks funny. A gander at the inside. I have touched up the inside, removing or covering the slight overspray. I decided to paint the red topping before adding the toprail. Note the hole in the top of the stem piece. A bamboo 'peg'/treenail will be glued and inserted to improve the strength and <hopefully> keep it from breaking off again.
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Simulate moving fast forward 10 days.
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I have a few days off from work and the boatyard is in full operation. While waiting for paint and glue to dry, I will post some far overdue thingies. The hull is taped out and second coat of white spray enamel has been applied. This will be left to dry and a fine sand before I apply two more coats. As you see from the date, this was actually done a couple weeks ago. A look inside the boat shows that some paint mist is getting inside the boat when I spray, however this is not a lot and it can be easily covered. A note on paint: Normally I like to use acrylic, but have not mastered the airbrush. Instead I use spray enamel.
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Enamle vs Acrylic
Chuck Seiler replied to Timothy Wood's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Popeye, Try Badger paints. Used normally for airbrushing, they can also be brushed on. I found the reds cover quite well. I originally got mine online...getting several colors of red since I didn't know if I could trust the color chart. (I have subsequently opted for caboose red. Santa Fe red isn't bad either.) Recently, I found our local model train store carries it as well. :-) -
Enamle vs Acrylic
Chuck Seiler replied to Timothy Wood's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
A little up front disclosure: Me and paint don't get along real well. I prefer to use natural wood and only paint when I have to. I have experimented with (and used almost exclusively on my SULTANA) India ink. I have also used colored wood dyes. That having been said, I like acrylic because it allows (in my experience) more color variations. By using the artist acrylics thinned with water you can get more earth tones and toned down colors rather than the very bright colors you get with many enamels. -
Eight oars does kind of clutter the place up. Same decoration on both sides?
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Bob, Superb!!! And you didn't break off the stem piece. :-) I wouldn't worry about being slow. You are going great and the result is fantastic.
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