Chuck Seiler

I have attached all frames and am about to start the planking.  The non-cant frames look great and will not pose any future problem (I hope).  The cant frames DID take some patience.  If I were to do this again, I would NOT make the cant frames in the provided jigs and, instead, make them off model and install when the rest of the frame is in the framing jig.
 
These frames must be beveled on both sides to accommodate (a) the eventual planking and (b) attachment to the keel/tab.  The bottom of frames 1 and 24 are extremely small and required much care in sanding.  Once I could seen EXACTLY what kind of bevels I needed, the task became easier.
 
That being said, it does take patience, but not much more than you would need to correctly make any model.  This certainly is not a slap-it-together model...but I think the end result will be well worth it.
 

Hi everyone just a bit on what I doing has victory 1:72  and the flying Dutchman 
Ships carpenter 

As a general rule it is better to remove the masking tape while the paint is still wet. You can also try to prevent the edge from happening by doing several very thin layers.
 
If the edge is already there you can use a very fine grit sandpaper to lightly sand it down. Then you can use a paintbrush to carefully fix up any parts that got sanded too far or the edge got messed up by the sanding process. The key is to have a very light touch and go slowly.

Well, it's finished unless I move into a bigger apartment.   Been an interesting journey as I've re-learned much that I lost and also also learned many new things like PE, painting, It is a great kit though I think I could do better since I won't have to relearn some things from scratch.  
 
For now, I'm headed back to Belle Poule after I take a few days to clean up the shop, pack up all the parts I didn't use and put them away.  Oh.. clear my head and raise a brandy in self toast.
 
Here's the pics.  Kindly ignore the dust as like I said...need to clean up the dust, etc.


 

What news everybody?
 
    I have started the shallop in earnest.  I am making it while manning the shipmodeling booth at our county fair.  I assembled and faired most of the frames prior to the fair, but I didn't want to assemble the framing jig until I got there.  I will eventually do a build log, but not until I get further along.  That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
 
    The cant frames are really giving me trouble.  I was able to make 1 and 2, but had trouble getting them into the jig.  It seems as though the keel slots and the slots for the 2 pieces in the jig are not exact, so over the length if they line up at the bow, they are a MM or so off at the stern.  Frame 22 wasn't bad, but I am having trouble fitting it into the jig.  Frames 23 and 24 will have to be assembled in the jig.  Sadness reigns.  What have you guys come up with?
 
   

What news everybody?
 
    I have started the shallop in earnest.  I am making it while manning the shipmodeling booth at our county fair.  I assembled and faired most of the frames prior to the fair, but I didn't want to assemble the framing jig until I got there.  I will eventually do a build log, but not until I get further along.  That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
 
    The cant frames are really giving me trouble.  I was able to make 1 and 2, but had trouble getting them into the jig.  It seems as though the keel slots and the slots for the 2 pieces in the jig are not exact, so over the length if they line up at the bow, they are a MM or so off at the stern.  Frame 22 wasn't bad, but I am having trouble fitting it into the jig.  Frames 23 and 24 will have to be assembled in the jig.  Sadness reigns.  What have you guys come up with?
 
   

Howdy!  And welcome aboard.

Howdy!  And welcome aboard.

Howdy!  And welcome aboard.

79 years ago today 5000 vessels took part  in the largest combat landings ever made.   Ships and sailors from MANY countries took part and many made the ultimate sacrifice along with their soldier brothers,  Pics below are from our recent visit May 23 -25, 2023
  
 

To combine the thought of the 2 previous posts....getting familiar with the bend and twist of each TYPE wood.  Some woods bend and twist very easily, whereas if you do that with other, more brittle wood, they snap or split.

The nice thing about a plastic kit is you can take it right into the shower with you and wash away every bit of dust, something you can’t do with wood. But I’d discard the plastic spars after using them as patterns to make wooden replacements.

Doesn't this also apply at the human (or any organism) level.  Human cells die and are replaced regularly.  While the frequency varies from organ and cell type to another they are all eventually replaced within a few years.  Quite literally, "I ain't the man I used to be", but I am still me.

Doesn't this also apply at the human (or any organism) level.  Human cells die and are replaced regularly.  While the frequency varies from organ and cell type to another they are all eventually replaced within a few years.  Quite literally, "I ain't the man I used to be", but I am still me.

Doesn't this also apply at the human (or any organism) level.  Human cells die and are replaced regularly.  While the frequency varies from organ and cell type to another they are all eventually replaced within a few years.  Quite literally, "I ain't the man I used to be", but I am still me.

Doesn't this also apply at the human (or any organism) level.  Human cells die and are replaced regularly.  While the frequency varies from organ and cell type to another they are all eventually replaced within a few years.  Quite literally, "I ain't the man I used to be", but I am still me.

Doesn't this also apply at the human (or any organism) level.  Human cells die and are replaced regularly.  While the frequency varies from organ and cell type to another they are all eventually replaced within a few years.  Quite literally, "I ain't the man I used to be", but I am still me.

The following is more likely the reason.   Deck furniture, bulwarks, etc, were red ochre. This was discussed in an earlier post here at MSW in 2021 and it was mentioned that this was for protection from the weather and ochre (earth) colors were inexpensive.  In addition, after long sea voyages and during repairs it was also refreshed. The idea that it would hide blood was coincidental, not the reason it was most often red.  There are a number of contemporary models where much of the inboard works were painted black.  I have no idea if this was original or done at some later time.  The Navy Board stated 18 July 1715 that painting (presumably outboard and inboard) was "not to refresh oftener than once a year or two and the inboard works that are from the weather."  There is no mention of a particular color or hiding blood.  The actual usefulness in protecting the wood from rot and the cost would probably be a bigger concern to the navy than the mental state of the sailors in the age of sail.    If you are next to a man that has had some part of his body ripped off, I doubt hiding the blood on a bulwark would make it any easier to avoid fear, panic  or the onset PTSD. 
Allan

A tool/resource/attribute often overlooked is 'patience'.  There will be times when things are not progressing fast enough, or things are not working out as planned.  Those are the times when you back away and either not worry about the speed of the progress, or slow down and work out how to solve the issue, and/or have a beer.

My first wooden kit was the Amati Santa Maria. Probably not considered a "true" beginners kit but I chose it because I loved the subject. I found it challenging but totally rewarding. Sure there were many parts that really perplexed me at the time, but by asking here, and reading many books and posts I managed to produce what I consider to be a really nice model.
 
So I always say, with some caveats, choose a subject that interests you. The caveat? I would steer clear of "expert" kits like large Victory's etc. You will see very experienced builders on this forum sometimes can run into problems with those type of kits. Also, I think you should probably prepare yourself for the fact that every kit, no matter what level, will likely present problems of some sort or another. No kit will fit together 100% perfectly the way the instructions say it will. They all require some sort of tweeking to come together.
 
Building a model ship is a very repetitive process and can even get boring. Especially if you start with something too big. Ask some of the advanced builders on this site how much fun it is rigging all the cannons or doing the ratlines on a large scale Victory? My Santa Maria offered me the chance to do simpler cannons, less ratlines and probably most importantly for a beginner, a far simpler planking due to the shape of the bow. I would steer clear of bluff bowed vessels like Victory, Bounty, Endeavour etc. I would also recommend any vessel you undertake to have double planking. The first planking will give you a great idea as to how planking is done and doesn't have to be perfect. It also makes the second layer, which you want to be a perfect as possible, much easier to do.
 
Good luck on your journey.
 
Chris
 

I fully recommend all those solutions.   Some days, Murphy just runs amok and not a thing we can do about it.

A tool/resource/attribute often overlooked is 'patience'.  There will be times when things are not progressing fast enough, or things are not working out as planned.  Those are the times when you back away and either not worry about the speed of the progress, or slow down and work out how to solve the issue, and/or have a beer.

I agree with you Greg about PE hooks.  They are not nearly thick enough and look kit-like.  The plastic hooks look better and seem pretty strong.  I had a file around for a while but never tried it on this new material.  I just laser cut some and they are pretty good actually.  They are of course not as strong as metal etched hooks like PE.  But these are plenty strong, even the smaller ones.  I would never apply so much tension when I rig that they would fail.  But I worry about some others.  I have seen how much tension some folks apply to the rigging and it is just not a good idea...tight as drum...

I tension just barely enough to prevent sagging and then try to even introduce a gentle sag because its more realistic.  But thats just me.
 
I could absolutely make these if there is interest.  If I remember correctly I placed forty 3mm hooks, Forty 4mm hooks and ten 5mm hooks all on one sheet.  You would get 90 hooks in a package for $11.00.
 
I could cut these tomorrow and have them in stock.  Let me know if you guys are interested.  Pictured is a 5/32" single block rigged with a 4mm hook as test.  
 

 
 

Also check out Chris' article about starting out.
 
 
    If you want to get as much as you can out of this hobby, you will be doing alot of research and questioning.  You found an excellent website for that.  After you settle on the model you want, you will want to know which tools to get.  That topic also exists. 
 
    Happy modeling...and remember, you can never have too many clamps.
 

I think they were placed there simply to perplex future modelers and researchers.