Chuck Seiler

Jaager,
I certainly agree that close is good enough.  Especially in the day when painters mixed their own paints.  Eric also makes the point that these oxide paints were especially subject to variation because the natural pigments varied.
 
I have never tried to use a color wheel.  For my last model, I mixed artist’s acrylic pigments by eye.
 
Bob,
My reason for posting this was to encourage more modelers to push their limits a little; away from premixed paints.  This is an alternative.  
 
I have found that quality artist acrylics in tubes mix up and spray well.  For my last model, though, I bought  a huge tube of yellow ochre at WallMart for something less than $5.  The grains of pigment could have been used for aggregate to pave your driveway.
 
Actually, I found an unopened bottle of Floquil SantaFe orange in my stash.  I think a slight red tint and Eric Ronnberg’s system of adding grey to mute the intensity should do the trick.
 
Roger

Roger,
 
I am a a heretic about something like this and I think that his whole exact color thing has too quick sand a foundation to warrant becoming OCD about it.
First off, unless seen in person, any color captured on film, tape or electrons is going to be different.  Even if you had the exact RGB number - every computer screen is going to do its own interpretation of it.
Close enough is good enough.
 
If you have a color chip or equivalent  I would use a color wheel  to get most of the formula.
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/artistscolorwheel.aspx
Now that I know what they really are I would use artist's oil  (40ml tubes)  and mix my own 
One of the companies may have a ready made that is close or only needs more black or white or ....
A little linseed oil and mineral spirits and you are set.

Well, he's not really anything to do with the windlass - I've still got to carve the two guys who'll be working it.
 
He's actually a buisinier (trumpeter), but I don't think he'll be playing it like this (genuine mediaeval drawing from a manuscript - they were a rather earthy crowd.)
 

 
Steven

Steven, that crewman working the windless needs to get a grip.  The Winchelsea Nef is really looking spiffy, I'm truly enjoying the build. 

Looks good Steven, those levers look so much better tapered.  What is it with you and castles?   
 
cheers
 
Pat

Here's the windlass - based on the ones from the Bremen cog, the Ijsselcog and the Kalmar ship. 
 
Making the two side pieces together so they're identical. I glued them together to put them in the vise and after finishing them I dissolved the glue with isopropanol.
 
 
 

 

 

 
And the barrel. I figured it would be easiest to put the holes in while it was still square in section, and then round it off afterwards. I drilled tiny pilot holes halfway in from each side so they would line up and join into a single through-hole perpendicular to the barrel. Then enlarged the holes.
 

 

 
Cutting the "axles" into the barrel. Firstly square section:
 
 
 

 
Trimmed:
 

 
Changing the barrel from square section to octagonal.
 

 
 
Then axle rounded off:
 

 
Barrel rounded off, assembled with side pieces and dry fitted. Note the holes for the bars have been squared off, in line with the ones found in archaeology.
 

 

 
Round hole for the mast (dunno what it's called).
 

 
Bars added. I had to unglue the barrel from the side pieces and rotate it, to get the bars in the right orientation to be reached by the crewmen.
 

 
The windlass with a crewman for comparison.
 

 

 
 
This made it clear that the bars were much too thick at the "handle" end, so I tapered them.
 

 
Next - the castles!
 
Steven

Congratulations on your 1 year anniversary. 
 
    A good build log is great.  It can provide a wealth of information.  Very often it tells us the result but not the process.  Your videos are fantastic because they show us not only what you did but how you did it.  I encourage everybody to check out your various videos.  Even if they are not making the ship you are working on, the processes are the same.

Here is what I got from  MSW post many years ago.  Don't know how accurate for the period, but to paraphrase Bruce, "Close enough for government work".
 

Cargo finished - at least the bit that will be visible. Both large and small barrels.
 

 

 
Cargo arranged in position. In the real world they'd have been wedged tightly together - with wedges.
 

 

 
And a start on the main decking.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Main deck planking complete. And starting to add the removable planks to go above the hold.
 

 
 
 

 

 
All the removable planks glued in place except the ones left off to show the cargo, stacked off to one side. I think I'll make an extra crewman and show him putting the last of them in place. 
 

 
 
 

 
And the mast and yard dry fitted to give an idea of proportions. 
 

 
Next to make the windlass, then the steering oar and the castles for the bow and stern. 
 
Coming along nicely.
 
Steven
 
 

Chris,
 
Building the models looks to be a fun project but I would be cautious with pre sewn sails or any cloth materials for that matter.  It is impossible to make these to scale at 1:50 or smaller using cloth and sewing machines whether done on your own or buying them pre-made.   It is a shame to see many well built models ruined with cloth sails that are so out of scale.  If you do a little search you will see that there has been a lot of discussion and instruction details on using alternate materials to make realistic sails to scale lately here at MSW.   I am not familiar with CMB's  sails, so they may be using scaled materials other than cloth and sewing thread.  It will be interesting to see what materials they are using.

Allan

Below show the two 9lbs canons fully rigged minus the canons
 

 
Bow shot showing the 12lbs canon as a work in progress.    The black on the breeching rope is from the 12lbs canon.   Originally I attached the breeching line to the 12lbs canon with a little glue.    I then (actually read the instructions) realizef it was best to remove the canons until later in the build so as not to get in the way or get knocked around during the build.   When the breeching line is again attached to the canon, it will not be noticeable
 
I also found some small black marbles for the shot garlands
 

 
Rather the using the supplied brass rings for the hawse holes I decided to use 4mm grommets.   One on the inside and one on the outside.   To me they look a little better and must easier to install than the brass rings.    The rings are very small and trying to get the hawse hole just right for the rings to cover seems like a lot of effort for no gain.    Next two shots show the hawse holes from the outside and from the top before the rail caps installed.
 

 

 
Note in the picture above the two grommets.   While grommets are a good idea, there will be no way to string the anchor line from outside in once the rail caps are installed.   I did not realize this until I look them from this top view.   One solution is to string the anchor line now while you can still get to it from the top.    Not sure I wanted to do that and have the anchor line just sitting there until late in the build.   Instead I pulled the grommets out, filed them down and re-inserted them again.   Below shows a full grommet and a filed down one.    This way, once the rail caps are put on, it will be easier to string the anchor line between the offset grommets.
 
Not really sure this was easier than stringing the anchor line at this point, so decide for yourself what is best for you.
 

 
Instructions call to trim and install the mast partner way before building the mast.  Since the mast partner has to be trimmed to fit the hull and the mast, it seemed like a good idea to complete at least the bottom mast before installing the mast partner.    As every model is a little different, and do to my lack of skill, I really wanted the mast to help with the positioning of the mast partner.   Instructions calls for building a jig to help position the mast partner, but still, I wanted the actual mast to be part of the mast partner trimming.   Otherwise, if the mast partner is a little off, (do to lack of builder skill) when you go to fit the mast, the mast may not be straight.   By using the jig and actual mast, you have a good chance to getting the mast straight up and down.    Mast is not permanently attached at this time - just used to help position the mast partner.
 
 

 

There is an mtaylor in the system, but not an mtaylor,.

Unless you put a comma after it, apparently.

Is that the origin of "Doing a half fast job"? 😁 (Think about it.)

Here is what I got from  MSW post many years ago.  Don't know how accurate for the period, but to paraphrase Bruce, "Close enough for government work".
 

Here is what I got from  MSW post many years ago.  Don't know how accurate for the period, but to paraphrase Bruce, "Close enough for government work".
 

Big barrels for wine and foodstufs... small ones for brandy or other distilled spirits.  I'll make a note.....

A variety of sizes is more interesting. Love the textures in the hold!

Thanks for the likes and comments.
 
Chuck, I thought about the barrels for quite a while and even researched the size of a tun (though it only gave me the volume rather than height and diameter).
 
However, barrels come in all kinds of sizes, so I went for something that could be handled relatively easily by one or two people.
 
On the other hand, really big barrels do go back a fair way - see this excerpt from the late 11th century Bayeux Tapestry, of a barrel that's been carried across the English Channel in what is effectively a Viking ship, for the Norman soldiers invading England in 1066. Translation "These [men] carry arms to the ships, and here they haul the wagon with wine and arms"
 

 
[Edit] Just roughed out a larger barrel - not a full tun - it would be too big to go in the low headroom of the hold - but quite a bit bigger. Here's the original size.
 

 
And here it is with the new one, in the ship and against a person.
 

 

 
Maybe I'll go with the bigger size after all - one advantage is that there would be fewer to make. Just as well I posted now, rather than after I'd made all the smaller ones . . . [/Edit]
 
 
 
Steven

Great progress!!!! 
 
Are those barrels large enough?  One major product was wine.  IIRC a tun was about 4 foot tall.

Thanks, Christian. That book sounds very interesting.
 
I've just finished the mast - though the top of the mast of the ship on the Winchelsea town seal is a bit vague, Landström interprets it  as having a cross at the top, in line with the seals of other towns such as Melcombe Regis and Hythe, as well as several manuscript illustrations.
 
So here's the cross at the top - a halving joint for the crossbar.
 

 

 

 
Here's the mast dry fitted - the cross seems always to be visible from the side rather than the front as I would have expected, though this might be artistic license to make sure it can be seen in a profile view of the ship.
 

 
   
 
 And now based upon the Ijssel cog, the planking for the bottom of the hold
 
    
 

 
And "branches" - actually dry weeds from the street verge opposite the house - laid on top of the planking.
 

 

 

 

 
and "brushwood" (also weeds) to bed down the barrels that are the ship's cargo.
 
       
 
 
       
 
Barrels under way - twenty-one of them.
 

 
       
 
Barrel hoops just begun
 

 

 
More to come.
 
Steven
 
 
 
 

Very unfortunate. I remember her being in San Diego many times during the Summer Festival of Sails fundraisers at the Maritime Museum and volunteering for this event.

Is that the origin of "Doing a half fast job"? 😁 (Think about it.)

Is that the origin of "Doing a half fast job"? 😁 (Think about it.)

Is that the origin of "Doing a half fast job"? 😁 (Think about it.)