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Thanks Mr. Rick, this is an intermediate level model to build... This technique prepares the modeller to plank the hull in the single planking method...
...
Now, here are some photographs of the mast and sails equipment...
 

Thanks Mr. Rick, this is an intermediate level model to build... This technique prepares the modeller to plank the hull in the single planking method...
...
Now, here are some photographs of the mast and sails equipment...
 

So, the deck equipment follows and later the mast and sails :
 

So, the deck equipment follows and later the mast and sails :
 

So, the deck equipment follows and later the mast and sails :
 

I’m just about to start on the Cheerful carronades and started the Queen Anne Barge yesterday. Keep your amazing work up! 

Thank you all for stopping in, for the likes and comments.
A small update to show:

Carving out the bow filler block for bowsprit
 

More carving to allow for future rigging to pass through and also anchor chains
 

Holes where drilled in deck for masts, this is a dry fit only. If the rake seems off compared to the plan it is only because the plan is not hung level on wall. I need a better qualified helper!!
 

Rails where installed. These were laser cut pieces, they now need to be sanded and narrowed by about 2 mm
 

Showing the pieces installed under the rail (can't remember proper name now )
 

How he looks now with the wale installed.
 
 Next is the top gallant rail and it's related pieces.
Have a good day

So, the deck equipment follows and later the mast and sails :
 

So, the deck equipment follows and later the mast and sails :
 

The blades for all 50 upper bank oars have been re-shaped , and 35 of the 50 oars for the lower bank are made. Only 15 to go. Upper bank at the top of the photo, lower bank below. Photo quality's not fantastic, I'm afraid.
 
  
 
 
I've also started work on the mast steps for the two masts. Each is made using three strips of wood glued together to create a readymade slot for them to fit over the keelson. I've used clingwrap to keep them from sticking to the keelson.
 
  
Once the glue is dry, I'll shape each mast step properly and then put a hole through each at the appropriate angle for the mast rake. Still have to make the masts - I should probably do that before I make the holes to take them . . .
 
Steven  

Hi
 
 

update,
 
made the brackets that take up the 9 sweeps of the port side (on the port outside of the QD)...
 
Nils
 

 
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 281 – Main Yard Rigging 2
 
The first picture shows the main yard ready for the next rigging steps.  The taut chain sling may be seen in this picture.
 

 
The topsail sheet chains are hanging from the cloverleaf sheet block under the center of the yard.  As described before, these chains are linked over the central pin within the block to allow them to pull down on the yard using the two tackles soon to be added.  This also permits the chains to hang somewhat slack under the yard on their way to the cheek blocks at the ends.  The two triple tackles for the sheets are shown rigged in the next picture.
 

 
The lower blocks of these tackles are hooked to deck eyebolts just forward of the mast and the falls are belayed on the topsail sheet bits using the long horizontal belaying pins.  The next items to be installed are the clue garnets with the main sheet blocks, tacks and lazy tacks attached to a single large shackle.  The next picture shows the prefabricated gear for one side.
 

 
 
The large line is the tack that was used to haul the weather side of the sail taut.  The smaller line is the lazy tack, used to control the sail as it was switched from tacks to sheets while the yard was being braced when the ship tacked.  The large block is the sheet block.  The sheet will be added later.   At this stage outboard rigging – mainly braces and lower course sheets – would be an obstacle to the work and subject to damage.  The smaller attached block is for the clue garnet.  The standing end of that line is shackled under the yard, passes through this block, back through one sheave of the quarter block and belays on the main fife rail. The hooked double block in the picture is a quarter block.  The second sheave on this block takes the fall of the reef tackle.  The next picture shows these lines rigged. 
 

 
The tacks are belayed on cleats on the bulwark rails and the lazy tacks to the first pins on the main pin rails.  These remain unglued so they may be adjusted when the sheets are added later.  In the next picture the topping lifts, buntlines, leechlines and reef tackle have been added. 
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view of these lines.
 

 
The bunt and leech lines pass through single blocks hooked under the rim of the top, down through shroud fairleads and belay on the main pin rails.  The reef tackle falls pass under the yard, through the aft sheaves on the double quarter blocks, and belay on the fife rail below next to the clue garnets.  Next the bowlines.
 
 
 
Ed

Hi, everything is temporary 
 
 
 

10 more fleur-de-lis have been added around the balcony railing. Next up are the support columns between the balconies. 
 

Thank you all for he comments and likes! 
 
It it has been slow going this past week just due to the nature of the work. I’ve been carving the support columns between the balconies. This has been largely guess work as to appearance partly from fuzzy images and partly because of my skill set.   Regardless of both of those issues, I have turned out the first four columns! I’m still having a hard time with facial features though a lot of that is the fact that the face area on the two center posts are only 4mm x 4mm so there is not a lot of room to work. 
 
Lessons for the future continue to add up which is good. In addition to buying better quality wood for the carvings, I need to expirament with different paints. The acrylics I am currently using, especially the gold, tend to be too heavy and thick for the tiny detail work needed. Using thinner paint though tends to bleed through the porous woods that I have been using to carve. Going to have to play around with some different options to see what I like best. Especially for the day when I attempt the Vasa. (It’s on the list but still a couple of builds away ) 
 
I think if I decide to build her again in the future (likely) I will possibly try to only use natural wood colors and only have paint as accent colors and then only on a few things I really want highlighted. Won’t be color accurate but I am a big fan of how the natural wood looks and I have seen some very impressive models done that way. 
 
Okay, enough of that, here are a few pictures! 

Update...
 
started with the making of the mighty main yard. I measured several times in order to get the correct length but it is really about 2/3 of the total ship length !
I still had some of the bamboo flower sticks in sufficiant length and diameter for making the two-spar lashed yard. For tapering the spars I used the slotted side of a scrap floor pannel plank, a small hand drilling machine in the left hand, and an electric belt file in the right hand. The result was very pleasing to see, and the bamboo material easily allows to buid in a slight curve of the lashed yard. Those lateen sails will be quite large later on...
 
For making the parral coller I used some etched brass ribs I still had from my Pegasus build, and fashion beads for the trucks. The lines of the main fall go under the parral collar, and the fastening toggle for the main  yard is just beneath the parral. A Trus pedant line comes from the one paral collar end and goes through a thimble at the other end. This line holds the yard close to the mast, especialy after bracing the yard, when wind from afterly directions.....
 
The angle of the yard is set with the two "top lifts" that come from deck and over the mast top...
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

The build almost finished. Flags of the Moro family in place (silkspan). Note: the Moro family crest consists of bunches of blackberries. This is a pun on the venetian name. The original name of the Moro family was Mauro or a moor. This was corrupted to Moro which is also the italian for blackberry. I have only the anchors yet to make.

 

 

 

 
Dick

The floor is completed! I had no extra wood, every single plank was used, just a few cutoff pieces remaining. That was close!
 

 

 
Now need to fill some gaps with epoxy, cross fingers and plane it smooth!
 
 

Zoran - I believe YOU should be proud of the product(s) you are turning out. I find it very refreshing to have a choice of kits like yours. Something quite out of the ordinary and different than another Victory or Constitution. The simplicity of certain parts of Trajta allowed me to step into some new areas like the sail. This was my first try at that. Techniques learned from that will be applicable for future builds.
 
And of course your guidance adds a lot of value to the overall experience. Thank you sir!
 
I do have Cog on the shelf. I think I will tackle a square rigger next but Cog will be coming up soon.

Hard to say Steve. And I'm wondering if you are commenting on my griping in the Enterprise build log? Trajta is a single layer.
 
I'll just say it one more time - I REALLY don't like the whole double plank thing. What a waste of time & materials! Some will say it will help get the second layer right. Here's a novel idea - why not get the first layer right?
 
I will now step off my soapbox........

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 279 – Main Yard Stuns'l Booms
 
The main yard was fitted with the two topmast studdingsail booms.  These supporedt the clews of the topmast studdingsails as well as the lower studdingsail yards that weresuspended from the ends of each when these sails were set.  The booms were 42 feet long and 8 3/8" in diameter over their center sections.  They taper to about 5 ¾" at the ends.  All the drawing dimensions are expressed in full size decimals to permit easy conversion based on scale.  The 1/72 converted sizes may be seen penciled on the drawing in the first picture.
 

 
The picture shows a finished boom and the "first trim" of the second – a squared length of Castello marked with centerlines and the two points at the ends pf the straight section.  The boom is grooved for jewel blocks at the outboard end and drilled for a lashing at the inboard end.  The inner hole was also used to fix a temporary tackle for hauling out the boom.  The next picture shows a finished boom set in the boom irons in the retracted position.
 

 
The booms were shaped by the process described in earlier posts, then polished and finished with wipe-on polyurethane as described earlier.   The next picture shows both booms lashed to jackstay stanchions at the inboard ends.
 

 
The next picture shows a close-up of a lashing.
 

 
I used untarred hemp for these and all lashings or fixings that would have been temporary.  Because of the offset of the booms from the yard centerlines and the gradual taper of the yard, the booms are actually deflected somewhat to pull them fast to the stanchion.  The last picture shows the end of the starboard boom after lashing on the two 9" jewel blocks.
 

 
The upper block handled the sheet for the topmast studding sail, the lower block the halyard for the lower stuns'l yard.  The outer iron is sized for the diameter of the boom's center section.
 
Ed

Good morning all. Thanks to all for your likes, comments and for stopping in.
 A month has passed and there really is not much progress to show. Time has been spent on other little projects and of course the all important holidays. As our spring is far from starting this year the next few weeks should prove to be a little more productive, I'm hoping.
 At any rate here is the progress:

The bending problem was solved by milling some walnut and cutting to shape, three pieces per side
 

The results for the freeboard, scarf joints cannot be seen but I know they are there
 

Scuppers drilled in hull
 

scuppers in deck
 

$ holes made in hull for mooring ropes
 

Hull blocks assembled
 

Hole started for block
 

Block installed
 
How it looks now with two coats of flat black paint, below waterline will be copper plates.
 
 Thanks for stopping in and have a good modelling day!!
 
 

Update :
 
all 6 shrouds of the main mast are on, together with the 6 haul lines for tensioning the tackles, these are now the only lines oft the main mast standing rigging.
Note all the toggle connections ( as shown in Amati plan)
 
Nils
 

some of the rigging members
 

 
 

all belaying points are exactly in the foreseen place
 

the rounded spacer lugs are necessary to give the yard sufficiant movability and clearance to the mast
 
 

small update :
 
this is the the tackle for hoisting (fall) and lowering the main lateen yard, it will be mounted on the aft side of the main mast. The holding lines coming from the yard will go through the two pulleys at the mast top. Active are 5 sheaves, so its quite a long running end to be coiled afterwards....
 
Nils