MEDDO

I cut and notched the 4 planks that make up the upper deck clamps.  After bending them to the slight aft narrowing they were glued in place and treenails added.  Then I cut out the eight mortar pit support knees and pinned and glued them in place.

Thank you Captain Hook and Glenn for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'.
This week I've been working on framing the stern.
Once again, the concept is really perfect and everything has been thought out so that the assembly is done in a simple and precise way.

 
For fairing the outboard sides, I used the method described by Rustyj in his excellent build log. I'm lucky to be able to rely on many build logs and to be able to reuse the tips and tricks found there 😁.
So I glued a piece of pencil lead to the end of a trip of wood and I was able to trace the future shape of the stern. A first roughing was done with my Proxxon rotary tool then I finished the shaping with sandpaper glued on different pieces of wood.
 
The two stern ports are then framed. I first determined the position of the port sills and lintels using a photocopy of the stern framing.
 

 
The installation of the two stern ports pushed me to think of a system to facilitate its assembly. Indeed, port sills and lintels must follow the ship's waterline. So I decided to build myself a small jig to facilitate their poses.
So I drew the waterline on the plan and measured the distance from the top of the bulkhead to the bottom of the sill, measurements were taken for bulkheads 14 and 4.
 

 
I then cut two pieces of wood whose height corresponds to my measurements. They were joined together and wooden strips that will pass through the x and y frames were glued.
 

 
These two strips are glued so that they are just 3/32" below the marks established using my template.
(3/32"  being the thickness of the wood pieces used for port sills and lintels)
 

 
I also added on each side a thin wooden stick (about the thickness of a sheet of paper) to give the second angle to the port sills.
 

 
Then all that's left to do is to glue the port sill on my jig.
 

 
For the lintels, a piece of wood the height of the stern port was simply placed on the sill and used as a support for positioning.
The pieces were then sanded at the back.
 

 
Next step : the square tuck and always so much fun.
 

Today I applied the second coat of epoxy to all the interior surfaces using a roller. I also applied the first coat of epoxy to the rails (except for the exterior underside -- the reason for that should be apparent) and epoxied the decks in place. Tomorrow I will give the rails their second coat, along with the decks' first coat. I'll give the decks their second coat during the week sometime and then be ready for exterior epoxy next weekend.
 

Forgot I needed to add the coamings. These were about 3 mm too long, so I used a sanding drum in my Dremel tool to take off the extra length and to round off the edges.
 

I don't want to seem disrespectful guys, but articles would be no good if everyone just posted links to alternative items.
 
This review focuses on the merits/demerits of the Artscale razor saw.
 
Can we focus on that please?
 
If we just have a free for all, then we are less likely to see companies want to have their releases checked over here.

Glad you stuck with it.  I say many of us started just like this.  It is a far sight better than my first planking job on my Swift

Glad you stuck with it.  I say many of us started just like this.  It is a far sight better than my first planking job on my Swift

Glad you stuck with it.  I say many of us started just like this.  It is a far sight better than my first planking job on my Swift

Glad you stuck with it.  I say many of us started just like this.  It is a far sight better than my first planking job on my Swift

Check Bluejackets cross section of the Charles Morgan whaler - larger scale too

Most of the cross section kits are highly inaccurate. These generally have the wrong number of decks depicted, for starters!
 
The only two accurate ones I know of, are the new Model Expo USS Constitution cross section, and CAFs HMS Granado cross section.
 

Of course😀I drill 3 different size holes to make up the gun carriages, so...  Note they’re color coded too as are a number of my tools using these little rubber sleeves I got from a dentists supply website after seeing my dentist’s assistant use them to quickly recognize instruments. I actually have 5 pin vises, you never know😀 

With the weather, electricity, and heat (lack there of) situation I decided to work on building my remaining 5 carronades. I described my process way back early in this log when I turned to them after my first frame was shattered in a fall to the floor so I won’t repeat it here. I like to use as many tools as possible it seems 😀.


 
These I can do in the short intervals I have available to have ship time right now. Here’s hoping things get back to normal this weekend when it should warm up.

Wonderful!

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

Wonderful!

In 1950, my mother took me to the auditorium in O’Neils Department Store in Akron, Ohio to see a traveling exhibit of model ships.  These models, built by a renown builder named August Crabtree are now a Crown Jewel in the Collection of the Mariners Museum in Newport News, Virginia.  That experience and the presence of models at home built my father convinced me that I wanted to build model ships.  I have been trying to do so ever since.
 
As soon as I graduated from college, I started to amass a collection of tools. As a newly minted USNR Ensign, one of the few things that I owned to be shipped to my duty station was my toolbox.  I still have and use many of these tools.  Over the intervening years, I have gradually outfitted what I consider to be a first class workshop without stress to personal finances. To the contrary, these tools have paid for themselves several times over completing dozens of projects unrelated to ship modeling.  I should add that I live in a region where homes with space for a workshop are the norm.
 
Complimenting my tool collection is a collection of books that I began buying in the 1960’s.  I consider these to also be essential to the building of quality models.
 
My point is that $1700 will buy a lot of tools and books.   The quality of many of the completed kits built by members of this forum is astonishing!  I can only marvel at the talents and skills that I lack that went into building these, but in the end they are still kits.  If your circumstances allow, spend your money building a proper workshop and library, and build something unique from scratch.

I used Krylon mattte fixative on my tissue paper run through a color inkjet printer. Worked great

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

It looks great.  When I was building the Pygmy kayak I usually made the thickened epoxy about the consistency of peanut butter.  The problem is the bigger the globs the more you have to sand/carve the extra off.  With a clinker hull that would be harder to do.  I ended up using one of these things and it worked out pretty well.
 

I used Krylon mattte fixative on my tissue paper run through a color inkjet printer. Worked great

Glad you are doing a full build log for this.  I have been interested in the CLC boats for a while.  A few years ago I built a Pygmy kayak and had a great time and learned a ton.  I have been trying to get the wife to allow me to go for the Annapolis wherry but so far she’s not having it...

I used Krylon mattte fixative on my tissue paper run through a color inkjet printer. Worked great

I used Krylon mattte fixative on my tissue paper run through a color inkjet printer. Worked great

I used the Chuck method on my Queen Anne Barge and the flags came out surprisingly well.