GLakie

Wow ,brilliant workmanship ,neat clean lines,sorry I missed so much ,Edwin

Outstanding work Piet!! The paint job really makes her stand out nicely! 

Outstanding work Piet!! The paint job really makes her stand out nicely! 

Two down, two to go...
Working on the ratlines while watching a little football and studying some chess.
Slowly getting there. I'm really good at clove hitches now.
 

Thank you Patrick, George, Cees and Anthony for your very kind words and thanks to all for clicking the like button.
 
Picturesque eh Patrick, well yeah, it livens it up a little    They did use paint and a lot of carvings all around that were also painted.  I kinda want to make it look like how these ships were painted in the mid-17th century. 
 
Okay, I finished painting the starboard side, except for a few touchups that side done.  The greyed-down green looks pretty good on her.  I have to agree with Jan and Hans, it looks much better then before.  It even matches pretty close to the color chart I got from Ab Hooving.  Now on to the port side.
 
But before I turn the build dock around I wanted to make the galley chimney.  That'll be placed on the quarter deck against the port side bulwark, it's easier to reach it from the starboard side.  I first made a rough sketch with the measurements and proceeded to cut me some wood parts.  I used small pieces of basswood for the base and top with 1 mm birch plywood for the sides.  The swivel hood has also a base of basswood with 1/2 mm plywood for the sides.  The curved top is some shaved down pine to 1/4 mm.  The 1/2 mm plywood is just too stiff to make the curve.  
 
These chimneys were removable and a water tight hatch closed the hole in the deck.  I'm just going to cement this thing to the deck and forego cutting the hole in the deck with the coamings and the hatch - - at this stage o the game.  It'll be painted with the cherry like color paint I used for the railing caps.  No fancy carvings on this thing, I'm cheap
 
So, this is as far as I got in the last few days.  I don't know If I can do work tomorrow though, it's gotten very cold here the last few days.  We'll see.
 

Gwen looked at it and liked it very much.  Of course she also looked for errors an found a fe spots I missed - - - on the underside of the railing caps.  Those are the tough-ups I mentioned. 
 

 

 

 

 

I couldn't get the starboard door off and may have to use some stronger persuasion methods.  Oh well, in that case I'll most likely have to re-cement the hinges.  
 

This shows the sketch with the parts I cut.  That little pyramid like thingy in the center of the base is for the top of the chimney where the sided are cemented to. There'll be another thin square piece of wood cemented to that for the cap to rotate on. 
 

This shows the chimney base all cemented together with the rotatable cap in progress.  I left the cap base attached to the strip of wood for easy handling.  The top part of the cap is cemented only to it's base.  I'l' have to gently persuade it to lay down nicely on the sides.  I'm using CA gel glue for this. 
 
Cheers, 

I'm still thinking sharks with laser beams!!!! After all, you have an extra now.
 
Dr. Evil
 

catching up Jesse.......really coming along nicely     making good progress too! 

From the bits and pieces I've read, the topmost sails were set first.  The Brits knew the fleet was coming out prior to the Battle of Trafalgar because the French and Spanish were setting the top gallants and top royals.  I'm sure there's some books around that would describe this process... but darned if I know which ones.

Never been on a sailing ship myself Matt, but it would seem to make sense to set them according to how strong the wind is.  The stronger the wind, the lower on the mast to reduce stress on the mast.  Just guessing of course.

Looking splendid John! 

Looks good Nenad.
 
One suggestion-if you can, make the vertical parts of the stand shorter, so the model sits closer to the ground. I find that longer stand supports tend to make the model easy to fall over (especially with the spars and rigging you'll be adding).
 
Just a thought.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Captain Steve, thanks for sharing! It looks like the center one is what is drawn up on the plans and I am presently building with out of scale details. I will just do the best I can with what I have.
Thanks again!

Thanks George

Here are the pictures of the main rail installed and the cross beams to hold the gratings. I was able to fix the white stripe on the port side by painting white above the stripe, then masking it off and repainting the black. Now the gaps on both sides are the same.
 

 

 

 

 
I have the gratings all cleaned up and I am in the process of staining them. I also made the seats of ease and stained them too. After I install them, I will add the rest of the top rail and the knee at the front of the stem, then plank the area between the middle rail and top rail. 

Looking splendid John! 

Managed to finish all the Halyards and Downhauls. Time to move to the Braces. Here's a picture or two, gets hard to distinguish what's what with all the lines running. Gets tight for clumbsy fingers.
Details are on my website for those interested.

Hi Piet, thanks for stopping in. I'm enjoying the new camera. Here's to you and Gwen having Merry Christmas and a great new years also. I'll tip a few Leffe's your direction....proost!

My last post was about a month ago so it has been going slow but steady.  Fabricating the parts from box rather than using the laser cut parts has made things slower, especially since i am also learning to use the tools. But, if at some point I am going to challenge myself with a scratch build, I need to improve my skills.  
 
After completing the figure head and head rails I moved on to the catheads.
 
Before attaching the upper head rail, I wanted the catheads fabricated so I could better determine the spacing. These were also made from boxwood.
 
I decided to see if could make sheaves that more closely simulated reality.  So...
 
Using a mill I cut the two channels for the sheaves using vary tiny burrs they were either .6mm or .6MM.

 
I tried cutting copper disks for the sheaves using a pliers type hole cutter.
 

 
I was able to get two cut but must have dulled the punch because it would not cut anymore after that.
(On another thread I am researching other options that might include a disc cutter, either from MicroMark or another one that seems to garnish recommendations.)  So, being impatient, I decided to cut them from box and paint them with badger model flex marine color wrought iron black.  After going through all this work I wanted to be able to see the sheave against the black of the cathead.
 
the third sheave on the side was also painted with the wrought iron black to help it stand out
 

 
below the sheaves are dry fit and the painting is not yet complete.
 

 
The cleat was from those supplied with the kit.  I used blacken-it (still have some left) and liked the appearance better than painting.
 

 
I am curious as to whether anyone has fabricated the cleats or just used those supplied.
 
Now that I have the head rail and the catheads I can start fitting them.
 
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks so much Dirk, Chuck, Mike and the "likes".
 
You're so right Chuck, this is the fun part and i will enjoy it -- but I'd still like you to get back ahead.    
 
Mike, the seats are only three pieces -- front, one side and top -- but needed a fair amount of fitting, even using the templates.
 
Bob

Ken. I've been following your build silently in the background ("Yes, yes. I know. Totally out of character, for me !!") ...
 
Not sure if you have seen Marquardt's AOTS Constitution, but here are three variations of the side gallery windows from that book ...

 
Hope they help. For my money, I'm in favour of the third version (C2/7), but I'm still a looong way from getting to that stage.

Looking very nice! I was wondering what those seats would look like.
 
Dirk - With all the customer work I'm surprised that Chuck has managed to complete as much as he has.
 
Mike

very nice build Sal,
 
I like the way you put the sweeps on the gallows, this is seen far to seldom on a model, beautiful work.  This gives me Inspiration....
 
Nils

Sal,
 
I've been lurking on your build. Awesome work, I have the Syren on the shelf.
 
I love the alligator clips. I guess you need them in the different sizes depending on the distance between deadeyes etc. 
 
Maybe one of you engineering types can figure out to make a set where the distance between clips is adjustable.
 
Regards

Beautifully done, Sal! It really is a pleasure to watch your Syren build!
 
Thomas

Thank you George, Robb, CaptainSteve, CH, Mark, David, Bug, Frank, miloman, and Boyd for your kind words of encouragement. Also thanks to all who hit the like button.
 
Finally got the re-rigging(aged ropes) finished on the 12inch smooth bore. It turned out to be quite interesting to remove and replace the ropes with the cannon affixed in place. So if anyone needs a lobotomy???
 
Any how, I picked up some muslin to begin working on the sail. Turns out it's almost exact to the kit supplied sailcloth so let the experimentations commence. I also found a blank, white handkerchief swatch in one of my vintage boxes of DMC and am trying a few coloring methods for the sails. Now I just need to get my hands on a yard of the hanky material. It's so thin you can see through it, so I'm not quite sure how it'll work out.
 
One thing I've been searching for and haven't found yet, is the order in which the sails would be set from the furled position. I'm thinking of having a sail or two opened to the wind, but not sure which one(s) that would be. So if anyone can point me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated.