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kirill4

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Everything posted by kirill4

  1. kirill4
    Location of the "stern spar" ...from that book
  2. kirill4
    Download this book, written by author of MF replica...a lot of information ! all the best !!! Kirill
  3. kirill4
    Good day, It looks like just pice of wood with hole for lead main sail /main course tuck, not sheet...
  4. kirill4
    May be You already have it, but just for the case, there is great and just briliant book about MF replica , written by its author with a lot of very important information including rigging questions as well...
  5. kirill4
    Good day, Dear Bob, She Looks very nice, it is very accurate job!, I like it very much !!! However I have some doubts/remarks regarding thickness of the stays and other standing riggings proportional rigging ... how did You calculate them? Thickness of the standing rigging? It shouldn't be the same as thickness of the shrouds? Main stay is the biggest one on the vessel ,exept perhabs anchor rope , all other standing riggings should be proportional less in sizes. There are a few perfect exell tabels , free download, easy to calculate thickness of all standing and running riggings depends on diam. Of main mast... Another question - securing/ lashing of the boat on deck and how it is positionedcon deck , is a little be doubdfull how You made it, it should be placed upside down from current position and lashing should be passed from side to side, but not crossed from side to side as You shown...It never be done like this on the vessel :)... I don't know why many times we could see this wrong way of securing boat on deck made by our colleques ... it is absolutely wrong way to do it like this:) I noted spaces between deadeyes looks too short... norm it should be spaced approx 2-3 -or even 4 times of deadeyes diam... all those small but devil important details very nicely and clear explained in R.C.Anderson book of 17th vessels rigging... do You have it under your hand? If not, I would be strongly advised to download this priceless book , there is all and even more, we need for building galleon models rigging and models of 17th century ships rigging.. I meant, regarding all said above, it is matter if we would like to make some historic accurate job and make some improvents to the kit we are working with, but it is just my private point of vew, and if You don't agree and have your ownn ideas how things should be performed, just discard all I said above Wish all the best! Kirill
  6. kirill4
    Good day, Dear Bruma, I have a few pictures of Fl.Cloud model, maybe You will find some idea for configuration / positioning sails on your model... as far as I could see, on this model ,choosed the case when both tacks and sheets of main/ lower courses looks tight at the same time...?! And position of the yards looks similar to your model yards position...on your model maybe You shown some" excessive "bellies" of lower sails? Agree ,on the model, it looks "strange" if try to 100% tight and secure fore tack on the cathead...but when compare to Campbell drawings everything should be ok... hm,strange... are the geometry of the kit model ,such as length of the yards,masts positions, size of the sails mutch the dimensions on the Campbells drawings of KS ? maybe on the kit model yards shorter than it should be? Or angle of the yards turn is not sufficient? At least, maybe there is sence to choose compromise variant when and yards sharp turned but and sails corner positioned in such way when both tacks and sheets looks tight?
  7. kirill4
    Good day Michael, Oh, I see now how it will be done ... fully agree with Your version, however on the engraving it looks like passing by sb side of the fore mast... but as always there could be a few variants of the same value and I believe that Anderson's opinion ,in case of some doubts, has more weight for making final desicion ! :))) Interesting, is there knee could be made with a kind of a hook( as it could be suggested from that engravings posted above) or there should be hole in the knee as You shown...? On these drawings some decorative element bellow knee figure could be seen- decorative part of the knee front part/ or hook? Main stay collar branches crossed outside beakhead-bulkhead on the VdV drawing?
  8. kirill4
    Good day, Dear Bruma, Sorry, I thought You depicted position "C"... regarding my comments ... only by my private opinion, may be positiin C of the sails cold be more "artistic" if I could say that ,"as wall of sails" .. :))) ...I was under impression of this picture
  9. kirill4
    Good day Michael ... This is very interesting as a kind of "theory" question... :), how to run main stay and its collar... I have some doubts , when looking at your pictures and compare it with this famous engraving, how this unit arrangement could be looks like ... main stay , as far as I could understand question , it needs to be run on sbs of fore mast, for this period , if agree with this asamption , than falls of fore yard need to be run on ps - to avoid crossing these lines each other? but You already made opening in the deck for fore yard fall on the sbs as well...? Maybe, it should be looks like as it is arranged on Vasa? or on this model as example... but unfortunately I don't have more "fully explained" pictures ... and in this book they didn't posted pictures how fore yard falls run...? As allways - All the Best! ps Do You have any other "proof" pictures of this arrangements? how main stay runs fore mast and secured "special edition" for SOS? may be good pictures of other professional/museum made models ? Kirill
  10. kirill4
    Good day, Dear Bruma, Great job! I never tire of admiring it, I look at it with pleasure every time! looks very cool! I have some doubts about whether the tension of some rigging of the lower sails is shown correctly in this scenario of the position of the yards... would it be more logical to see tight tacks and loosened sheets on the windward side and vice versa on the leeward side of the main sails ...? Clews of the windward side of main sails pointed aft maybe looks a little strange ? I meant it should be looks like this ...?
  11. kirill4
    Good day Ferrus Manus! Very interesting building You started, will follow with great interest! Duch artists/ or artist - Van deVelde, as I remember, shown this detail / rudder preventer, in many... Wish You all the Best!
  12. kirill4
    Good day Michael, She looks very nice , You reached 100 % wooden effect!!! I like it very much! That inner windows on pop deck , looks a little too big, almost same size as the gate? Is that correct.?.. are there need to be any windows at all or just round cuts for light armor/guns? All the Best!
  13. kirill4
    Good day Eric, Nice to see You decided to continue your SR building! All The Best!
  14. kirill4
    Good day Bill, This picture by J.Budriot could be usefull in your SR rigging https://cloud.mail.ru/public/GFhj/r5sWcuzJ4 on the last pages of his book he gives very good details of rigging https://cloud.mail.ru/public/6ptu/hGjgw2XzZ
  15. kirill4
    Good day Michael, It could be interesting - SOS picture in high resolution https://cloud.mail.ru/public/kGs3/UrQcmEwyt
  16. kirill4
    Will try artificial gold potal'?
  17. kirill4
    Good day Michael, This is the model ,where some interesting details could be found... prototype(1671) ,as I could understood from model description,was made in old fasion style, even bowsprit still placed not in central line...guess some of details of this model still could be usefull for SOS in some respect..
  18. kirill4
    perhaps an easier option would be to install the sails on the yards in advance, with all their running rigging, and then install the yards with the sails in place and move the running rigging in places... due to the abundance of running rigging, in my opinion of course, it will be fantastically difficult to install sails on already installed yards... however, I wish you successful overcoming of difficulties if such appear on the horizon, and completion of construction
  19. kirill4
    Helo Bill ! She looks nice! Are You planning to install sails after completion of all your rigging works, correct ? All the best! Kirill
  20. kirill4
    Round deadeyes for 16th century 👀👀👀 weknowthatyouknow but this is hermetic info , not for your uncle 😊
  21. kirill4
    Good day Ferrus Manus, To simplify process and making all upper deadeyes stay in line I would strongly recommend to use carton pattern where upper deadeyes temporarly secured by softwires.... details of this process You could see in hundreds or even thousands building reports of our brothers "in arms".....😊😊😊
  22. kirill4
    100% agree with Michael! Dear Ferrus Manus , In this stage of Your modeling skills, these ugly plastic shrouds where ratlines are the same thick as shrouds itself ,, just will spoil your entire model built... it is time to make all your own rigging, as Michael said! All the Best! Kirill
  23. kirill4
    Good day Bill, this is from Kirill :))), Please consider , that I'm not at all experienced ship model builder, and all I posted this is just my solely private thoughts / point of veiw ...:) When I saw models of D.Shevelev , it made a very big impression on me and later on I tried to find more information about him and his works... and tried to follow his findings and style , ? in my own work, of couse in very small conserns ,due to absolutely different levels of outcome :))) but ok, back to our questions... if You like idea to darkening your running rigging lines, I would like to reccomend to use water deluted artists acrylic paint - ochre + umbra natural... in such extand which will give You desired "hemp " color... it could be easily applied on installed running /standing rigging... by soft wide brush, desired intensive could be reachead by appling a few coats... or You could use artistic oil paints as D.Shevelev used, I didn't use them yet, but it is in my plans for my next palstic model///
  24. kirill4
    Seriously, D.Shevelev models more than 20 years in private collections and still no "troubles" with them...
  25. kirill4
    Good day Ian, As far as I knew, it is long life receipt... artists oil paints on artificial threads, at least 200years duration 👌😊

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