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Posts posted by kirill4
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Next stage,this month and last till my next vacation in september - spritsail making and installation
I used high quality percale for sails making - by my opinion- it is the best material even for scale 1:100 remains more or less acceptable...
For this scale I simplified procedure as much as possible, and use textile clue wherever posible - bolt ropes - clued to the sail edge,cloth connection imitated by pencil sharped to hair thick and than all lines need to be light squeezed by awl ...
Fabric painted by wood stain in advance soaked in mix of water and white wooden clue and dried without ironing - after such treatment looks and feel like paper -very handle to work with
- WackoWolf, popeye the sailor, russ and 2 others
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"I started - in my head - the next Project - the Galeone Roter Löwe"
Hi Max,
sounds "promising" ! I like this type of vessel
Do You have "The rigging of ships. In the days of the Spritsail topmast 1600-1720 - Anderson" ?- very usefull book when You will be busy with galleon rigging, and also I like and found very informative Duyfken replica fotoes - plenty specific and accurate historical reconstruction could be seen...
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Hi J,
paint jobs done very nice...neatly...
did You finish painting or will use "washing" to lift up decor relief and make it more expressive like this blue part of emblem?
On deck - as I understood there should be scuppers( bulwark cutted through,like we can see on replica) and water-way planks installed?
Sorry for stupid question, I'm not familiar with wooden modelling and don't know the "regulation" You follow building Your model, may be idea was just follow kit instruction ,but from other side I saw You already replaced mast tops for more correct type...
All the Best!
Kirill
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Hi, Matti
I liked this fotoes You made -where model placed in front of trees...and color schema used for painting...really perfect ! artistic!!!
qstn abt guns - looks strange for me arrangements of breeching(too thin and short) and coil ?...or they are installed temporary? or there is some specific for this vessel?
All the best!
Kirill
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than there was a problem with guns...actually spanish galleon should have two wheel gun-carriage, kit version was 4 wheel, and I tried to modify it for two wheels carriage...let say I did it formal only due to wrong position of kit guns frame which positioned too low, and full size modification was not available ...so I did what I did , and removed previously installed gun tackles ...I don't know what kind of arrangements of this tackles need to be done for breech-loader guns and I left breeching only
Mary Roze armament pozition - just for example as it was very near to galleon age
- rkwz, avsjerome2003, WackoWolf and 2 others
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- rkwz, WackoWolf and avsjerome2003
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Ok
futtock shrouds and catharpin next step ...
catharpins on my models will not be installed , I found that it is not "mandatory" for galleon age ....the rest I tried to do as it is discribed in" The rigging of ships. In the days of the Spritsail topmast 1600-1720 - Anderson"
than I installed lower yard ties and halliards,ties clued to cap and tightened by halliards , lower yard will be installed later on together with fore sail
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Hi,
Just thought I'd stop by with a quick update, no pics yet later today maybe, been working on the casting provided by Corel. The stern decorations and the figure head, most of mine had some register issues during casting so there has been a lot of file work to make them presentable, plus the "gold" plating was flaking off most, so painting was required. Again pics to follow later today, but first a question: does anyone out there know why the lions used as the figurehead and along the ship sides are RED?
Hi J,
Nice job,
really looks nice!
As I understood - lions used as the figurehead- just good simbol of POWER! as far as I can see on many galleons contemporary drwngs - lions very often used ...I think it is the simplest explanation ...and not only galleon age but later on, this variations of lions were in use
may be more often on navy vessel?
Abt red ship side I'm not so sure if it is ness-ry to use this color on HM ,if she is not navy vessel(trade vessels -brown or dark wood or natural wood color),and need to be colored red in case of "Yes"
red color- I think mostly matter of fashion for navy than need to have it for some practice purposes
But if You painted it red -it will not be mistake because in this time merchant vessels easily became navy and most of the time they have same armament...
Actually it should not be really red color, need to be more close to red ochre - blood red
there is good Rolf Hoeckel book "Modellbau von Schiffen des 16 und 17 Jahrhunderts" where he told abt painting/color...
there is HM replica - red color
but on this picture of merchant dutch vessel - no red color and no figurehead ....I think in both cases You will be right, which color scheme You will choose
(sorry my English)
All the best!
Kirill
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next stage for me was the fore mast top rope installation...actually it is not necessary to have it in normal sailing condition...but I wanted to have it just for fun
During top rope installation I've found that I need to replace mast bitt - this part from the kit was wrong construction and couldn't adopt my top rope...so I fabricated new one from telefon plastic cards...
than there was questn how and where to secure running end of this rope...I didn't find better solution but only to install additional cleat...it is funny, but I don't know how it should be arranged on galleon...I didn't find this arrangement on modern galleon sailing replica
From the books I only understood that mast bitt should have 4-th sheeve fo this rope
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Next stage for me was just continue to attach shrouds without laniards and when all set was installed left them like this for a moment, than I fabricate fore stay with loop and mouse and install it and adjust nessry lenght ...and after that only it was possible to remove carton and install and adjust laniards...adjusting laniards tighteness took me couple of days due to plastic masts very sensitive and load need to be distributed very smooth
As soon as it was done I secured them with drop of CA gel oposite and than made free end of laniard turn around and secured...details of location knob and passing those laniard ends well discribed in "The rigging of ships. In the days of the Spritsail topmast 1600-1720 - Anderson"
Mouse I've made from piece of liquid steel ,forming a ball shape(not pear shape like on modern vessel) and imitated stitch by knife + painted later on
Shrouds top Loops not served ///as I understood in this time they shouldn't be(continent)
- CaptainSteve, rkwz, avsjerome2003 and 3 others
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Hi Matti,
Clear, thanks,
making my "galleon rigging report" I was thinking in parallel how to make this "the squared holes" ...I mean ,how would I do that...take some steel rectangular cone end rod , heat it up till yellow color and to burn preliminary drilled hole inserting this rod and than sand paper...but this is just my fantasy
How You did it in reality?
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Next stage was fore shrouds installation...as soon as it is my first model where I wanted to make more or less full style rigging,I men as much complicate as I can do...I was a little bit afraid to start...
One of the unsolved problem which is still remains - I use not proper ropes for rigging but ordinary polyester threads...and appearance is not as it should be when You make Your own ropes...but OK...next model I will do with correct threads,just need to fabricate simplest rope makeing mashine
Thread which I used for shroud - hawser laid ,as said -ordinary rope...and same I saw was used on Duyfken replica
Above deadeye I didn't make end crossed standing part and didn't make "throat seizing" but just seized end rope to its standing part when rope went around deadeye -finaly have rope end lie forward on sbs and aft on ps ...classical arrangment on modern ship will looks different
Thread which I used was preliminary painted by acrylic paint (mix of brown+black+ochre light+raw umber+matt acrylic varnish) - proportion free, just maid it close to dark brown for standing rigging and brown -raw umber- yellow- for running rigging
Before start making shrouds I made hard carton pattern where marked pozition of the shrouds+position of upper deadeye+ratline position
upper deadeye secured with wire wich I purchased in some shop for sewing hobby and a drop of cyanoacrylate adhesive gel ...
The rest of procedure was much easy that I supposed -make shroud goes round of upper deadeye,adjust position ,make it tight as much as possible and hold by clip + secure end of the rope with couple of seizing...
forward shroud I made serviced
I guess this "technology" is very well known and isn't so interesting... ratlines will be installed at the final stage of the rigging...
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- Rudolf, WackoWolf, avsjerome2003 and 1 other
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Hi Matti,
I like very much Your style ! and I like galleon as well ,and allways with great interest watch how people work with wood ...
Regarding capstan You made - nice job!
But I have question...those bars ...the side goes to the capstan head...they need to be rectangular and round all the rest...difficult to see on foto...
Did You make them rectangular or left rounded?
Thanks
Kirill
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Good day everyone,
continue with assembling report
after completion fore stay lower collar I've try to imitate fore stay load on bowsprit and met with serious problem...see...bowsprit starts moving to ps as soon as I loaded fore stay...look at the picture You can see at least two forces which are forwarded in the same direction of ps and try to pull bowsprit to the same way...it happened due to on galleons bowsprit stays a little bit right from center line and under the angle to the center line ...so finally there is strange picture exists with this effect of bending/pulling bowshprit to the ps ,
In this period of galleon,at least ,as I understood ,there must be no bobstays ,no bowsprit srouds,no other rigging which keep bowsprit in position exept gammoning...I did only gammoning as it should be///and have this problemm
...on normal vessel ,when bowshprit locates along center line of the vessel ,static forces distributed in other way and such effect I think ,not exists...
but even than you see that on the vessel of later period , bowshprit shrouds and bobstays are in use ...and must not be installed on galleon model
Finaly I decided to install b-shroud only sbs , just to hold bowsprit in position when all fore stays will be tight
Anybody met such problem during building your own vessel of the same period-like Half Moon or similar? and what You did to solve this problem?
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Dear friends,
continue posting fotoes of previous months...
after boarding net installation I began to arrange / to fit bowsprit blocks...fore stay lower deadeye I decided to secure to bowsprit in some special way ,not by means of spliced collar and round seizing- try to imitate what I saw on Batavia replica...need smthg looks unusual ...
And one more strange thing I did,and I guess most of the people building sailing vesells models may not agree with it...
I decided don't use sling or any kind of parrel to secure/hold spritsail yard to the bowsprit, but use tie and halliards only, means, thick rope attached to bowshprit - goes through single block suspended to bowsprit- and than ended with halliard tackle near gammoning...
at least some kind of such arrangement mentioned in Anderson book, page 212 and what I could recognize as such arrangement looking at contemporary pictures
Same and really working arrangement we can see on very accurate Duyfken replica
I think such kind of arrangement could exist till begining of the 17 century(end of galleon age) and later on, sling or parrel need to be installed and halliard arranged in different way
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Thank You Very Much Daniel,
I listen to Your wonderful building stories (first on german forum for Sailing Ship Modeling) long time and still not get tired
Thank You,cheers!
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- dafi, Sidfisher, avsjerome2003 and 3 others
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next idea was, that my galleon needs antiboarding net as well...again,on many pictures of galleon we can see that there was no free access to the main deck...often it was closed by some kind of ?gratings?...to fabricate grating -this task was too difficult for me?and I decided ta make imitation of antiboarding net,which also was in use in this period
I've made it frm garlic pakaging neilon net of couse it was not best material,but suitable and fast founded
same arrangements with this net I saw on this model of flemish galleon(read spanish on that period -look at the flags) and carvel museum model
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HALF MOON by jct - FINISHED - Corel
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
Posted · Edited by kirill4
Hi J
I red marked what I meant-scappers - see ,practicaly they made them much more in q-ty compare to the drwng...
Lion Heads on the sides , if we are talking abt the same - for sails rigging
there are more pctrs which could be usefull https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=half+moon+replica in case You didn't see them
this is nice and historical acurate replica - there are a few in the world which build with such good quality,but not like tourists show
Regarding washing for decor - by my opinion, if it used w/o "fanatism" it always makes positive results -could say as "plastic man"
at least for the gold part of your decor...white -should be washed very-very light or not at all
All The Best
K i r i l l