mort stoll
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Everything posted by mort stoll
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Hi Kevin What size line did you use for your cannon breaching cables? Thanks, Mort
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- caldercraft
- Victory
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Enjoy your vacation.
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My pleasure my friend.
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Hi Stergios, There is nothing to thank me for. We are all in this together. Any advice I can offer I will. Lever is Darcy Lever - "Young Officer's Sheet Anchor" Pattersson is Lennarth Petersson - "Rigging Period Ship Models" Lees is James Lees - "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War" Take your time and enjoy the rigging process. I only have to rig #'s 54 and 55, the lower ratlines and hoist the Red Ensign.....hopefully 3-5 weeks more. Keep up the great work. Your model is beautiful. Mort
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I have always preferred to attach as many yards and lines - both standing and running rigging lines - as possible to the masts before I step them. On my last 3 ships - Mamoli Connie and Rattlesnake and Caldercraft Snake - I did not pin - nail - the yards to the masts or the masts to the deck. I followed Lees, Pattersson and Lever and had no problem. It was just as they said. On my first few models I glued the masts to the deck and pined the - nailed - the yards to the masts. I think it is easier and faster to work with everything off of the ship. I label all of the standing rigging lines with the # of the pin they attach to. The schrouds are numbered from bow to stern on the plans by me so I know where to tie them to on the model. Same with the fore and back stays. There are times that all of the lines look like a plate of spaghetti but they are easy to untangle and you should have no problem if you take your time. The rat lines I attach when everything is tied down. Hope this helps, Mort
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I agree. Mort
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Hope everything works out exactly the way you want it to and you have a great recovery. Mort
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I used it 5 years ago on my Mamoli Connie quarter galleries. It worked out fine and still looks great. Mort
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- caldercraft
- Victory
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Enjoy Jason, enjoy. Mort
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Same here. Mort
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and to you my friend. hope to have you back soon. mort
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Hi Ray, Great job. You should be very proud. She is beautiful. I cannot wait to start my build. I am in the process of making a list of what I may need in order to upgrade and replace any potential part shortages for my Diana and Victory kits and am going to order from CMB. A fellow NJ club member feels that I should use my existing spare parts as on the real ships not all of the blocks or cleats would match due to wear and battle losses. He's probably right but I want everything to match, not that anyone might notice. A serving machine is the way to go. A friend made me one from a few gears and a crank. It is really simple not that I could ever make one. Mort
- 536 replies
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- diana
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Hi Ray, I plan on starting the Diana upon completion of my Snake, in about 6 months or so. I replaced the Snakes wheel. It is the same as the one in my Diana kit. Interesting everyone raves about Caldercraft's customer service but it took about a month for them to replace the cleats that the Snake kit was missing and I mailed them 6 weeks ago and emailed them 2 weeks ago asking for more blocks also missing from the kit and I have yet to hear from them. It is frustrating. After dealing with Model Expos customer service one gets spoiled. I am going to take your advice, upgrade and order extra fittings and so forth from Cornwall Model Boats and not have to concern myself with Caldercraft ever again. I have dealt with them in the past - Cornwall - and their response time is great. Mort
- 536 replies
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It is less than that. I had no problem with it. Mort
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Hi Ray, Great job on the netting. I have a few questions. Do not remember if I asked you this earlier but have you considered mounting swivel guns on her tops, bow, and or the stern? Are you satisfied with the kit supplied double wheels? They look somewhat thin. Thanks, Mort
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Enjoy the vacation. Mort
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Hi Craig, Here is what I did. To use plan #15 diagram #7 as an example......look at block #276. It looks like it is a single block. Check the table at the bottom right of the plans. Look for #276. The first # is a 4. That means you need 4 blocks to rig the boats 2 per boat. The 1x4 means it is a 4mm single block. For Block #356 in Diagram #242 - bottom left - on Plan #15 look on the tables at the right of the plan sheet until you find the sheet with #356 listed. In this case it is sheet # 10. A 3mm single block. What I also do on my plans is to label each and every block and line on each sheet. I find it saves me time when I have to rig the line or spar and gives a me a mental picture of the rigging and really does not take that long. Hope this helps. If not do not hesitate. Mort
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very nice. very very nice. Mort
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Thanks Ray, I agree the kits bell has to be replaced. Thanks, Mort
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- diana
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Forgot to include in my last post that when you attach the blocks and eyebolts to the deck make sure that any standing rigging schrouds and running rigging lines are attached to them before they are glued onto the deck. Rigging is like hull planking and coppering. It is one day at a time and just try to do a little each day. I also had my copies of Lever and Peterssen at my side for reference. Once you finish rigging this ship there will be no ship you will not be able to rig. Mort
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- Constitution
- Mamoli
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Hi Ray, Great job as always. where did you get the brass bell? Mort
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Hi Bill, I completely assembled all of the masts - bow sperit, fore, main and mizzen - with all of the attached yards with their blocks off of the ship. I also attached as much of the standing and running rigging as I could - lifts, hallards, sheets, etc... whatever I could and labeled each line so I could attach them to the proper belaying pins after the masts were stepted. The rigging plans I thought were clear and easy to follow, and I did. I labeled each and every one of the blocks and lines with their dimensions on all the various plans diagrams as this I felt was easier than looking at the part numbers and referring back to the glossary for their sizes, This also helped to familiarize me with the actual rigging and really took no time at all to accomplish. I installed the ratlines last as this enables one to access the deck easier than if they were installed earlier. I prefer to work from bow to stern - another of my NJ Club members swares by stern to bow - and bottom to top. Hope this helps, if not do not hesitate to contact me, Mort PS Call me crazy but I thoroughly enjoyed rigging this ship, as I am sure you will.
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Hang in there big guy. One step, one day at a time. You are going to be amazed at the finished product. Mort
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Ger, I plan to experiment when I build my own Connie - in probably 3-4 years from now by getting a piece of wood and shaping it to resemble - very much easier said than done - the stern and try to build my own quarter galleries. In about 6 months I should complete my Snake and plan to build the Diana. Her quarter galleries are built entirely from wooden pieces included in the kit. I hope this will give me some insite into the Connies galleries. You might try to PM Ray and Barbosa about their quarter galleries. They are both posting Diana build logs on this forum and doing a great job.. Mort
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I envy the Captain being able to stand on that gorgeous deck in command of that beautiful frigate. Mort
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